Rozafa Castle, Albania 罗扎法城堡
May 2, 2026
Over the past twenty days,……
过去二十天里，我们走访了四个曾属于前南斯拉夫的美丽国家。。。
May 2, 2026
Over the past twenty days, we traveled through four beautiful countries that were once part of former Yugoslavia. We will leave with countless photos of stunning landscapes, historic towns, and unforgettable scenery. Yet the memories that left the deepest impression on us were not the picturesque views, but the lingering reminders of war — the heartbreaking photographs displayed in museums, bullet scars still visible on apartment buildings, rows of white gravestones scattered across city cemeteries, and the taxi driver who quietly referred to himself as a “war baby.”
Together, these moments became sobering reminders of the suffering, loss, and sacrifices endured by countless innocent civilians not so long ago. Today, we were heading to Albania to learn about yet another chapter of the region’s dark and complicated history.
Our Albanian driver picked us up in the morning for the journey to Tirana. He did not seem entirely familiar with the route, but after about three and a half hours on the road, we reached the border crossing. This time, the procedure was surprisingly simple. The officers briefly looked at our passports and waved us through without even scanning them or recording our entry. Just like that, we entered Albania — a country that once felt strangely familiar to many of us who grew up in China during the Cold War era.
Our first stop was Rozafa Castle. Perched high above the surrounding landscape, the ancient fortress overlooks the meeting point of several rivers and has guarded the region for centuries. We knew there would be a short uphill walk, but we did not expect the long, rough stone path leading all the way up to the ruins. The uneven terrain made it difficult for our friend to continue climbing toward the restaurant near the top, so she decided to rest halfway while we continued upward and planned to bring back takeaway food for her.
Even ordering a simple pizza became an adventure. Between the language barrier and the fact that we still did not have local currency, communication was not easy. Eventually, with a mixture of gestures, smiles, and patience, everything worked out, and we ended up enjoying a simple but satisfying lunch.
The castle ruins themselves were atmospheric rather than grand, but the panoramic views were spectacular. Surrounded by rivers, mountains, and open plains, the scenery stretched far into the distance beneath the bright spring sky. We spent about an hour and a half wandering through the ruins and taking in the views.
After another two-hour drive, we finally arrived in Tirana and checked into a pleasant hotel in the embassy district. From our room on the fifteenth floor, we had our first sweeping view of the city we would begin exploring the next day.
For dinner, we chose a seafood restaurant conveniently located across from our hotel. Everyone was still in the mood for seafood, and we enjoyed a delicious meal together. The fresh ingredients and flavorful dishes made for a very satisfying dining experience.
Our first impression of Tirana was quite positive. The city felt lively, welcoming, and full of energy. As the evening came to an end, we looked forward to exploring more of Albania’s capital the next day.
2026年5月2日
过去二十天里，我们走访了四个曾属于前南斯拉夫的美丽国家。离开时，我们带走了无数壮丽风景、历史古城与美食的照片和记忆。然而，真正最深刻触动我们的，并不是那些风景本身，而是战争留下的痕迹——博物馆里令人心碎的照片、至今仍留在公寓楼外墙上的弹孔、城市墓园中一排排白色墓碑，以及那位出租车司机轻声说自己是“战争婴儿（war baby）”时的神情。
这一切，都不断提醒着人们：那场并不遥远的战争，曾让无数无辜平民付出了沉重的代价。而今天，我们将前往另一个国家——阿尔巴尼亚，去了解这片地区另一段黑暗而复杂的历史。
早上，我们的阿尔巴尼亚司机来接我们前往地拉那（Tirana)。先从科托尔（Kotor)延着亚德里亚海岸线开，沿途风景优美。司机似乎对路线并不是特别熟悉，离开海岸线，进入山区，大约三个半小时后，我们抵达了边境。这一次的过关手续出奇地简单，工作人员只是简单看了看护照，甚至没有扫描或登记入境信息，更没有盖章，就直接挥手让我们通过了。就这样，我们进入了阿尔巴尼亚——这个国家对于许多在冷战时期成长于中国的人来说，多少带着一种熟悉而遥远的感觉。
我们的第一站是罗扎法城堡（Rozafa Castle）。这座古老的城堡高踞于山丘之上，俯瞰着几条河流交汇的平原，多世纪以来一直守护着这片土地。原本以为只是稍微爬一段上坡路，没想到通往城堡遗址的是一条漫长而粗糙的石头路。崎岖不平的路面对我们同行的膝盖有伤的朋友来说有些费力，她最终决定在半山休息，而我们三人则继续向上，准备帮她带些外卖下来。
就连点一份简单的披萨，也成了一场小小的冒险。由于语言不通，加上我们当时还没有兑换当地货币，沟通并不容易。最后靠着手势、笑容与耐心，总算顺利解决，我们也吃上了一顿简单却满足的午餐。
城堡本身如今更多只剩下充满历史感的遗迹，而非宏伟完整的建筑，但四周的景色却极为壮观。河流、群山与平原环绕四周，在明亮的春日天空下，一直延伸到远方。我们大约停留了一个半小时才回到车上。
原来计划还要停另一个景点，因为从黑山的Kotor 到地拉那路途有点远，而阿尔巴尼亚的司机开车比较猛， 一路过来大家也都有点紧张和累了，决定不再前往那里。
又经过两个小时的车程，我们终于抵达地拉那，并入住位于使馆区附近的一家舒适酒店。从十五楼的房间望出去，景色怡人，尤其是漂亮的清真寺在落日余晖中显得格外耀眼。
晚餐就近在酒店对面的一家海鲜餐厅，大家还是对海鲜更感兴趣，好好美餐了一顿。对地拉那这座城市的第一个印象不错，期待明天的到来。
1400 steps to Fortress 1400石阶上古堡
May 1, 2026
One of the must-do activities in Kotor is hiking up the mountain……
来到科托尔最经典的活动之一便是登上山上的古堡。。。
May 1, 2026
One of the must-do activities in Kotor is hiking up the mountain to the old fortress, either through the city walls or via the natural preserve trail outside the town. We chose the more traditional route through the city walls.
After paying the 15€ entrance fee, we began climbing the roughly 1,400 stone steps leading up the mountainside. Fortunately, the weather was perfect for hiking — cool, sunny, and breezy. We stopped constantly along the way to take photos, and with every turn and every section of the climb, the view became more spectacular. The higher we climbed, the more dramatic the panorama grew: the red rooftops of Kotor Old Town below us, the steep mountains surrounding the bay, and the calm waters of the Bay of Kotor stretching deep into the distance. By the time we reached the fortress, the scenery was absolutely breathtaking and easily one of the highlights of our stay in Montenegro.
After descending back into town, we returned to the apartment for a simple lunch and, more importantly, a short afternoon nap.
Later in the afternoon, we joined a 3 p.m. boat tour on the bay. The first stop was the small artificial island church near Perast — Our Lady of the Rocks. We had to pay an additional 5€ per person to go onto the island, though the visit itself lasted only about 15 minutes.
Afterward, the boat continued to Perast, where we were given around 40 minutes to explore. The small coastal town was elegant and peaceful, lined with old stone buildings and waterfront churches facing the bay. It felt like the kind of place where one could easily spend a slow afternoon sitting at a café by the water. Unfortunately, our stop was far too short. We barely had enough time to wander through a few streets before needing to return to the boat — not even enough time for a coffee.
That evening, we did not feel like going out again for dinner, so we simply ordered takeaway food from a restaurant about a hundred meters from our apartment.
After so many consecutive travel days, we were beginning to feel a little tired. Instead of continuing to explore, we stayed in for the evening and quietly enjoyed the sunset view over the bay from the apartment.
2026年5月1日
来到科托尔（Kotor) 最经典的活动之一便是登上山上的古堡（Fortress）。游客可以选择沿着老城城墙一路攀登，也可以从自然保护区的小路上山。我们选择了更具代表性的城墙路线。
买好每人15欧元的门票后，我们开始攀爬通往山顶的大约1400级石阶。幸好当天的天气非常适合徒步，阳光明媚却不炎热，山风吹来十分舒服。一路上我们不停地拍照，而随着高度不断上升，眼前的景色也变得越来越壮观。
脚下是密密麻麻的红瓦老城，远处则是被群山环抱的科托尔湾（Bay of Kotor）。平静的海水一路向山谷深处延伸，在阳光下泛着淡淡的蓝绿色光泽。随着一步步向上攀登，视野也不断变得更加开阔。等终于抵达山顶古堡时，整个海湾、古城与群山尽收眼底，那种辽阔而震撼的景色，让人久久不愿离开，也成为我们此次黑山之行中最难忘的画面之一。
下山时，我们才注意到路边长满了挂着果实的杏仁树。树上的绿杏仁看起来十分新鲜，不过终究还是没敢随意摘下来尝尝它真正的味道。
下山回到公寓后，我们简单吃了午饭，更重要的是补了一个短短的午觉。
下午三点，我们参加了海湾游船团。小快艇开得飞快，第一站是佩拉斯特（Perast）附近海上的小岛教堂——岩石圣母岛（Our Lady of the Rocks）。登岛还需要额外支付每人5欧元，不过停留时间只有短短十五分钟。
随后快艇继续前往佩拉斯特（Perast），让我们停留约四十分钟。这座海边小镇安静而优雅，沿岸排列着古老石屋与教堂，带着一种悠闲而精致的亚得里亚海气息。这里原本很适合慢慢散步，或者坐在海边咖啡馆里发呆一个下午。可惜时间实在太短，我们只是匆匆走了几条小巷，甚至连喝杯咖啡的时间都没有，便又不得不返回码头。
晚上我们已经懒得再出门吃饭，于是干脆从离公寓一百多米外的一家餐厅外卖了晚餐回来。
连续多日不停移动和旅行之后，我们多少开始感到有些疲惫。于是这一晚，我们没有再继续安排活动，只是安静地待在公寓里，慢慢欣赏海湾上的日落景色。
Spit-roasted Lamb 炭火烤全羊
April 30, 2026
Apparently, we still were not fully satisfied with the lamb……
今天又将前往一个新的国家——黑山。。。
April 30, 2026
Apparently, we still were not fully satisfied with the lamb we had the day before. When we learned that we would pass through Jablanica, a small town famous for spit-roasted lamb, on our way to Kotor, we specifically asked for a lunch stop there.
We stopped at Restoran Kovačević, perched on a cliff overlooking the emerald-green river below. Several small lambs were slowly roasting over charcoal outside, and the entire place smelled of grilled meat and smoke. This time, we were more cautious and ordered only 500 grams of lamb along with a few other dishes. The lamb looked beautifully roasted — crispy on the outside and tender inside — but the strong lamb flavor was still a bit more than I expected. As we ate, we even started wondering whether all the effort to try the famous specialty had really been worth it. Still, the experience itself was memorable. Sometimes in travel, the most interesting meals are not necessarily the most delicious ones, but the ones tied most closely to a place and its identity.
After lunch, we continued south and entered Montenegro. The border crossing was surprisingly casual. We simply handed over our passports through the car window without even getting out of the vehicle. Oddly enough, the officer stamped only two of the passports before waving us through.
By late afternoon, we arrived in Kotor. Our rented apartment was located just outside the Old Town in a four-story villa facing the bay. The Bay of Kotor was calm and beautiful, surrounded by steep mountains that reflected softly on the water. In the distance, an MSC cruise ship was docked near the cruise terminal, adding a touch of activity to the otherwise peaceful harbor.
Our host reminded us that many stores would be closed for the upcoming May Day holiday over the next three days, so we should buy groceries that evening if we needed anything. We stopped by a nearby market to pick up some basic supplies for the coming days.
Later, we walked into Kotor Old Town for dinner and, as had become our routine during this trip, took an initial evening stroll through the city. Dinner was satisfying, and the Old Town was certainly beautiful, with its narrow stone alleys, old churches, heavy medieval walls, and lively little squares.
But by this point in the journey, after visiting so many historic European old towns, the sense of excitement was no longer quite as strong as it had been earlier in the trip.
2026年4月30日
今天又将前往一个新的国家——黑山。从萨拉热窝到黑山的港湾小镇科托尔（Kotor）交通不是很方便。朋友在网上找了个萨拉热窝的包车司机。
显然，我们对前一天吃到的烤羊肉并不算完全满意。当得知前往科托尔的途中会经过以炭火烤全羊闻名的小镇亚布拉尼察（Jablanica）时，我们特地要求司机安排一个午餐停留。
我们来到河边悬崖上的科瓦切维奇餐厅（Restoran Kovačević）。餐厅俯瞰着翠绿色的河水，景色相当不错。门口几只小羊正在炭火上缓慢旋转烤制，空气中弥漫着浓浓的烤羊香味，让人一下子就感受到这里对于羊肉的执着。
这一次，我们学乖了，只点了500克烤羊肉，再加上一些其它菜。羊肉外表烤得金黄诱人，皮脆肉嫩，但羊膻味还是比我们预想中更重一些。对我们这些吃猪肉的，Split 那里的烤乳猪更配我们的胃口。这一顿羊肉口味虽然未能十分满足，但这样的体验本身倒也十分难忘。旅行中，有时最有趣的并不一定是“最好吃”的，而是那些带着地方特色与记忆点的经历。
午饭后，我们继续南下进入黑山（Montenegro）。边境手续意外地简单，我们甚至不需要下车，只是把护照递给边检人员。结果他们只在其中两本护照上盖了章，随后便挥手让我们通过了，整个过程顺利的有些不可思议。
从萨拉热窝开车到科托尔，司机没有走最短的路线，因为那是一条非常糟糕的路，对车损害很大。司机宁愿饶道多开近一个小时。但即便如此，进入黑山之后有一段路况还是不太好，坐在车里很不舒服。
傍晚时分，我们抵达科托尔。租住的公寓位于老城墙外不远处，是一栋面朝海湾的四层别墅。朋友特地选了最好的带大阳台的套间，一个海景房。科托尔湾（Bay of Kotor）平静而优美，四周群山环抱，海面几乎没有波浪。远处的邮轮码头停靠着一艘MSC邮轮，让这个宁静海湾多了几分热闹。
房东提醒我们，因为即将到来的“五一劳动节（May Day）”假期，未来三天许多商店都会关门，如果需要买些食品的话，最好今天去。于是我们先去附近超市买了一些基本食品。
安顿好后，我们步行前往科托尔老城（Kotor Old Town）吃晚饭，也顺便进行了像往常一样的“第一轮熟悉城市散步”。因为前几天在波黑每顿都是肉，今天终于又回到亚得里亚海边，主打海鲜，晚餐令人满意。老城依旧是典型的欧洲中世纪古城：狭窄石板路、古老教堂、厚重城墙，以及热闹的小广场，一切都很漂亮。
只是旅行进行到这个阶段，在看过太多类似的欧洲古城之后，最初那种强烈的新鲜感，似乎已经慢慢减弱了。
Sarajevo City Hall萨拉热窝市政厅
April 29, 2026
Today we continued exploring Sarajevo……
今天继续逛萨拉热窝。
April 29, 2026
Today we continued exploring Sarajevo. Our first stop was the city’s famous Eternal Flame (Vječna Vatra), a memorial built after World War II. The flame burns continuously in honor of those who lost their lives during the war and remains one of Sarajevo’s most meaningful monuments.
From there, we walked to the Orthodox Church, admiring its distinctive architecture and the important role it plays in the city’s religious and cultural heritage. We then spent some time strolling back and forth across several bridges spanning the Miljacka River, enjoying views of the old town and the mix of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and modern influences that give Sarajevo its unique character.
Throughout the city, we frequently noticed the so-called “Sarajevo Roses.” These are scars left by mortar explosions during the Bosnian War that have been filled with red resin to resemble flower petals. Each “rose” marks a place where people were killed during the conflict, serving as a silent and poignant reminder of the suffering endured by the city and its residents. Even decades later, these memorials remain woven into the streets of Sarajevo, ensuring that the memories of those tragic years are not forgotten.
During the Bosnian War in the 1990s, much of Sarajevo was heavily damaged and thousands of civilians were killed during the long siege of the city. One of the most tragic losses was Sarajevo’s City Hall, known as Vijećnica, which was destroyed by shelling and fire in 1992. The building later underwent a long reconstruction, carefully integrating surviving original elements with newly restored sections. Today, the reborn City Hall stands once again as one of Sarajevo’s most beautiful landmarks and a symbol of the city’s resilience.
The architecture of the building was stunning. Built during the Austro-Hungarian period in a pseudo-Moorish style, the exterior was decorated with colorful geometric patterns, arches, and ornate details that immediately stood out from the surrounding buildings. Inside, the grand central hall rose several stories high beneath a glass roof, filled with symmetrical staircases, intricate painted decorations, and richly colored walls and ceilings. The combination of Islamic, Byzantine, and European influences created a unique atmosphere unlike any other city hall we had visited. During our visit, an exhibition about war crimes trials was being displayed inside, adding another emotional reminder of the suffering Sarajevo endured during the war.
We then made a short photo stop at the Emperor’s Mosque before continuing our walk toward the lower station of the cable car. A few blocks before reaching the station, however, we realized there was still a steep uphill climb ahead. Considering our friend’s knee injury, we decided it would be wiser to take a taxi up the mountain instead.
But first things first — we took a break at a small local café for a light lunch. There we tried burek once again, and surprisingly, it turned out to be the best burek we had during the entire trip.
After lunch, we took a taxi to the 1984 Olympic site. Our driver was talkative, friendly, and clearly proud of his city. When we asked him where to find good spit-roasted lamb, he immediately recommended a restaurant, even calling ahead to confirm they still had lamb available.
At the top of the mountain, he kindly drove us farther along a rough path directly to the old Olympic bobsleigh track, saving us about ten minutes of walking. He then waited patiently while we explored the area.
The abandoned bobsleigh track was another haunting reminder of Sarajevo’s wartime history. Originally built for the 1984 Winter Olympics, it was later heavily damaged during the siege and used as a military position. Today the concrete track is covered with colorful graffiti from artists around the world, transforming a former war-scarred site into something strangely artistic and alive again.
Afterward, the driver took us to the lamb restaurant. Along the way, he pointed out former sniper positions and hills from which the city had been bombarded during the siege. Once again, we were reminded how terrible and senseless the war had been.
The restaurant, Stari Orah, was a century-old establishment located in an older residential neighborhood outside the tourist center. We ordered one kilogram of spit-roasted lamb along with several salads. The lamb itself was mild and simple in flavor, without heavy seasoning, letting the natural taste of the meat stand out. The atmosphere there felt completely different from the busy Old Town. Almost all the customers were older local men quietly eating and chatting together. In the end, we managed to finish the entire kilogram of lamb.
The same driver later picked us up and brought us back to the Old Town once again. Before ending the day, we visited the library of the mosque, our final landmark in Sarajevo. Tomorrow, we would move on once again.
2026年4月29日
今天继续逛萨拉热窝。我们先去了萨拉热窝著名的“永恒之火”（Vječna vatra）。这座纪念碑建于二战结束后，火焰长年燃烧，纪念在战争中牺牲的人们。然后走到东正教教堂（Orthodox Church），随后沿着米利亚茨卡河（Miljacka River）上的几座桥来回散步，欣赏老城区景色。城里地面上常能看见”萨拉热窝玫瑰”（Sarajevo Roses），每一处“玫瑰”都代表波黑战争中曾有人在这里遇难，是这座城市对战争伤痛的无声纪念。
在1990年代的波黑战争期间，萨拉热窝遭受了严重破坏，长期围城造成大量平民伤亡。其中最令人痛惜的建筑之一，就是萨拉热窝市政厅（Vijećnica）。这座建筑在1992年的炮火中被焚毁，后来经过多年修复，才重新恢复昔日风貌。修复过程中，建筑尽量保留并整合了原有的部分结构，如今重新开放的市政厅，不仅是萨拉热窝最美丽的地标之一，也象征着这座城市经历战争后的重生与坚韧。
整座建筑的设计极为华丽。它建于奥匈帝国时期，采用伪摩尔式（Pseudo-Moorish）建筑风格，外墙布满鲜艳的几何图案、拱门与繁复装饰，在周围建筑中显得格外醒目。走进内部，中庭高高挑起，顶部是巨大的玻璃天窗，两侧对称楼梯向上延伸，墙壁与天花板上布满精细彩绘与装饰图案。伊斯兰、拜占庭与欧洲建筑元素融合在一起，形成一种非常独特的气氛，与我们以往参观过的任何市政厅都不太一样。馆内还举办了一场关于战争罪审判的展览，再次提醒人们这座城市曾经历过的苦难。
之后我们在皇帝清真寺（Emperor’s Mosque）稍作停留拍照，然后继续步行前往缆车站准备去山上。可走到距离车站还有几条街时，我们才发现前方还需要爬一段相当陡的上坡台阶。考虑到朋友的膝盖受伤，我们决定改乘出租车上山。
不过，第一件事还是先满足一下自己的胃，于是我们就近在一家小餐厅吃了简单午餐，点了一些不同口味的波黑传统馅饼（Burek）。没想到，这竟成了我们整个旅途中吃到最好吃的一次Burek。
午餐后，我们搭乘出租车前往山上的1984年冬奥会遗址。司机非常健谈，也很热情，对自己的城市显然十分自豪。到达山顶后，他又特意沿着一条小路直接把我们送到冬奥会雪车滑道（Bobsleigh Track）旁边，替我们省去了大约十分钟的步行路程。之后他就在原地等我们慢慢参观。
废弃的雪车滑道同样是战争留下的伤痕之一。这里原本是1984年萨拉热窝冬奥会的重要比赛场地，后来在围城期间被军队占据并遭到严重破坏。如今，整个混凝土滑道上布满了来自世界各地的涂鸦艺术作品，让这个曾经充满战争痕迹的地方，又重新带上了一种奇特而鲜活的生命力。
当我们问起司机哪里能吃到烤全羊时，他立刻推荐了一家餐厅，甚至还主动帮我们打电话确认当天是否还有羊肉供应。之后，司机载我们前往那家烤羊餐厅。一路上，他不断指着山坡与建筑，告诉我们当年哪些地方是狙击手位置，哪些地方曾用来炮击城市。战争虽然早已结束，但这些痕迹依然存在，也再次提醒我们那段历史有多么残酷。
这家名为“Stari Orah”的小餐厅已有一百多年历史，位于一片远离游客区的老社区里。我们点了一公斤烤羊肉以及几份沙拉。羊肉的味道比较清淡，没有太多调味，更强调肉本身的风味。餐厅里的气氛也与热闹的老城区完全不同，几乎所有顾客都是当地年长男性，大家吃饭，喝咖啡聊天，充满了一种真实的日常生活气息。最后，我们竟然把整整一公斤羊肉全部吃完了。接着司机又赶来餐厅，把我们送回老城区。
当天最后我们参观了清真寺的图书馆，这也是我们在萨拉热窝参观的最后一个景点。明天，我们又将继续踏上新的旅程。
Mosque, Baščaršija and Tunnel of Hope 清真寺, 老城 和 希望隧道
April 28, 2026
Sarajevo was already a very familiar name to many of us who grew up in China……
对于许多在上世纪七十年代中国长大的人来说，。。。
April 28, 2026
Sarajevo was already a very familiar name to many of us who grew up in China during the 1970s because of the famous Yugoslav war movie Walter Defends Sarajevo. Long before we ever arrived here, the city already carried a certain sense of mystery and history in our minds.
This morning, we began our sightseeing near our accommodation with a visit to the Sacred Heart Cathedral, the most important Catholic church in Sarajevo. Built in a Neo-Gothic style, the cathedral is distinguished by its twin bell towers, which have become one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.
Next, we visited the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque and its museum. Gazi Husrev-beg was an influential Ottoman governor and military leader whose contributions played a major role in the development of Sarajevo. Through the Islamic tradition of waqf (charitable endowment), he donated much of his wealth and land to support the mosque as well as various public institutions, educational facilities, and charitable projects throughout the city.
The museum, located directly across from the mosque, occupies a building that originally served as a school founded by Gazi Husrev-beg. Today, it houses exhibits on his life, legacy, and the history of Sarajevo during the Ottoman period, providing valuable insight into the man whose vision helped shape the city for generations.
Next to the mosque stands Sarajevo’s old clock tower, known as the Sahat-kula. Although it looks like an ordinary clock tower at first glance, it is believed to be the world’s last publicly operating lunar clock, still manually adjusted according to sunset time just as it was during the Ottoman era. In this old system, sunset marks the beginning of a new day. The picture below on the right was taken at 12:31 pm and the lunar clock should be 16:14 since the sunset time on 4/28/2026 was 7:46 pm.
We then walked through the old copperware streets of Baščaršija. In earlier times, the district would have been filled with the constant rhythmic hammering of craftsmen shaping copper by hand. Today, much of that sound has disappeared, replaced instead by neatly manufactured coffee sets and souvenirs displayed for tourists.
For lunch, we had a simple meal at a small street-side restaurant before taking a taxi to the Tunnel of Hope.
During the Siege of Sarajevo in the 1990s, the city was almost completely surrounded. The tunnel was secretly dug underneath the UN-controlled airport runway to connect the besieged city with Bosnian-held territory outside the blockade. Through this narrow underground passage came food, medicine, weapons, fuel, and people. It became Sarajevo’s lifeline during the war. Even today, many buildings nearby still bear visible bullet scars, silent reminders of the conflict.
After visiting the tunnel, we returned to the old town determined to finally try Bosnia’s famous spit-roasted lamb. Earlier, while driving from Mostar to Sarajevo, our Bosnian driver told us that spit-roasted lamb was one of the country’s most beloved traditional foods. He mentioned that a small town along the route was especially famous for it. Ever since then, we had been searching for a place to try it in Sarajevo.
Our first restaurant claimed on its website to serve spit-roasted lamb, but when we arrived, we discovered they no longer offered the dish. Still determined, we called another taxi and headed uphill to Kibe Mahala.
Kibe Mahala was highly rated, and photographs of well-known visitors and celebrities lined the walls. Fortunately, a table for four was still available. As we entered the dining area, we immediately saw whole lambs roasting slowly on spits and became excited that we might finally get to taste the famous dish. But when we asked, we were told the lamb had already sold out for the evening. Apparently, reservations and advance orders were necessary.
Disappointed but hungry, we stayed and ordered several other dishes from the menu, which turned out to be excellent. The panoramic view over Sarajevo from the restaurant was also spectacular.
After dinner, we took another taxi to the Yellow Fortress to watch the sunset. Unfortunately, the weather was poor, and the sun never really appeared through the clouds.
We then slowly walked downhill past the vast Kovači Memorial Cemetery, where 1,503 soldiers killed during the Bosnian War are buried. Row after row of white gravestones stretched across the hillside. It was a sobering reminder of the sacrifices and suffering brought by war.
2026年4月28日
对于许多在上世纪七十年代中国长大的人来说，萨拉热窝这个名字并不陌生。早在来到这里之前，我们就已经通过那部著名的南斯拉夫电影《瓦尔特保卫萨拉热窝》认识了这座城市。它在记忆中一直带着一种神秘而特殊的历史感。
今天上午，我们先参观住宿附近的萨拉热窝圣心主教座堂（Sacred Heart Cathedral Sarajevo)。它是萨拉热窝最重要的天主教堂，正面有两座钟楼。接下来我们参观了加齐·胡斯雷夫贝格清真寺（Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque）和博物馆。加齐·胡斯雷夫贝格是奥斯曼时期一位重要的总督和军事领袖，对萨拉热窝的发展贡献巨大。他通过伊斯兰传统中的“瓦克夫”（waqf）制度，将自己大量的财产和土地捐献出来，用于支持清真寺以及城市中的各种公共设施和慈善事业。而博物馆就在清真寺对面，当初是加齐·胡斯雷夫贝格所创办的一所学校，如今展示着有关他的生平及历史。
清真寺旁边矗立着萨拉热窝著名的钟楼——萨哈特库拉钟楼（Sahat-kula）。它外表看起来像一座普通的古老钟楼，但实际上却极为特别，被认为是世界上最后一座仍在公开运行的“月亮钟（lunar clock）”。这座钟至今仍按照奥斯曼时代的传统，根据每天日落时间进行人工调整。在这种古老计时方式中，日落便意味着新一天的开始。
随后，我们漫步穿过老城巴什察尔希亚（Baščaršija）的铜器街。过去这里曾经回荡着铜匠们敲打铜器的清脆声响，而如今，那种叮叮当当的声音已经少了许多，取而代之的是摆放整齐、专门面向游客出售的精美波斯尼亚咖啡器具和纪念品。
中午，我们在街边简单吃了顿当地午餐以及波斯尼亚咖啡，然后乘出租车前往希望隧道（Tunnel of Hope）。1990年代波黑战争期间，萨拉热窝长期遭到围困，几乎与外界完全隔绝。这条秘密修建的地下隧道从联合国控制的机场跑道下方穿过，将被围困的城区与外部控制区连接起来。食物、药品、燃料、武器以及人员都通过这条狭窄的通道进入城内，它成为当时萨拉热窝维持生存的重要生命线。直到今天，附近许多房屋墙面上仍然留着密密麻麻的弹痕，无声地提醒着人们那段战争岁月。
之前从莫斯塔尔（Mostar）前往萨拉热窝途中，我们的波斯尼亚司机告诉我们，当地人最喜欢的传统食物之一就是炭火慢烤的转炉羊肉（spit-roasted lamb）。他说沿途有个小镇甚至专门以烤羊闻名。从那以后，我们便一直惦记着一定要在萨拉热窝尝尝。参观完希望隧道后，我们回到老城，去了网上找的一家餐厅。网站上说有波斯尼亚著名的烤全羊，但到了之后却被告知早已不再提供这道菜。我们依旧不死心，继续上网查，又叫了一辆出租车，前往另一家在山上的基贝·马哈拉餐厅（Kibe Mahala）。
这家高级餐厅评价很高，墙上挂满了许多我们所熟悉的名人与老板的合影。幸运的是，当晚还有四人桌空位。刚走进用餐区时，我们立刻看到几只整羊正在火炉上缓慢旋转烤制，顿时兴奋起来，以为终于可以吃到了。然而服务员却告诉我们，当晚的烤羊已经全部售罄，需要提前预订。
虽然非常失望，但我们还是坐下点了几道菜单上的其它菜肴，结果味道都相当不错。而且餐厅位于山坡高处，可以俯瞰整个萨拉热窝，景色非常漂亮。
晚饭后，我们又乘出租车前往黄色堡垒（Yellow Fortress）观看日落。可惜天气不佳，厚厚的云层始终遮住了太阳。
之后，我们沿着山路慢慢步行下山，经过了规模巨大的科瓦契纪念公墓（Kovači Memorial Cemetery）。这里埋葬着1503名在波黑战争中阵亡的士兵。山坡上一排排白色墓碑密密麻麻地延伸开去，让人强烈感受到战争带来的伤痛。
Tito’s Bunker 铁托地堡
April 27, 2026
After breakfast, the same private driver who had brought us here……
早餐后还是二天前送我们来的包车司机来接我们。。。
April 27, 2026
After breakfast, the same private driver who had brought us here two days earlier came to pick us up. Leaving Mostar, we continued north along the Neretva River, passing through the town of Jablanica.
Nestled between rugged mountains and the river valley, this quiet town is best known for its role in the famous Battle of the Neretva during World War II. One of the most striking reminders of that history is the old railway bridge spanning the gorge. Partially destroyed and left leaning at an angle, the bridge remains suspended above the river as a massive wartime relic, silently preserving the memory of the battle that once unfolded here.
Continuing toward Sarajevo, we made a stop in the town of Konjic to admire another picturesque Ottoman-era stone bridge crossing the emerald-green Neretva River. Smaller and less famous than the iconic bridge in Mostar, the Konjic Bridge possesses a charm of its own. Surrounded by mountains, historic stone buildings, and the swift-flowing river below, it offered a peaceful and scenic glimpse into Bosnia and Herzegovina’s rich cultural heritage.
We spent some time strolling through the old town and along the riverbanks before continuing our journey toward Sarajevo.
From there, we continued to one of the most unusual places we visited in the Balkans — Tito’s Bunker. Officially known as the ARK D-0 Atomic War Command bunker, the massive underground facility was secretly built during the Cold War to protect Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito and selected government officials in the event of a nuclear war. Construction reportedly lasted for decades and cost an astonishing 4.6 billion U.S. dollars at the time. The bunker remained one of Yugoslavia’s top military secrets for many years. Ironically, Tito himself never set foot inside after its completion. Hidden deep inside the mountains near Konjic, the bunker was designed to sustain around 350 people for up to six months in complete isolation from the outside world.
We had booked our tickets online in advance. First, we drove to a small travel office in town to pay and collect the tickets, then continued another five kilometers into a remote mountain valley. There, we parked between steep forested mountains and walked toward a small entrance hidden behind an iron gate. At the beginning, we were instructed not to take photos because the surrounding area was still considered a military facility.
Later, we boarded a small bus that transported us farther into the restricted area before finally entering the bunker itself. Ironically, once inside the bunker, photography was completely allowed, which made the earlier camera restriction feel rather unnecessary and somewhat amusing.
The bunker itself was surprisingly impressive in both size and quality. Hidden behind an ordinary-looking entrance was a vast underground complex filled with long corridors, conference rooms, communication centers, dormitories, offices, kitchens, fuel systems, and Tito’s private quarters. Everything had been built with remarkable attention to detail and durability.
What impressed us most was the condition of the equipment. Even though more than forty-five years had passed since its completion, much of the machinery, furniture, and infrastructure still looked solid and functional. According to the guide, most of the equipment had been manufactured domestically within the former Yugoslavia. The guide spoke with a certain nostalgia, noting that many of those industrial and technological capabilities disappeared after the breakup of the country.
Walking through the bunker felt like stepping into a preserved Cold War time capsule hidden deep beneath the mountains.
Later that afternoon, we arrived in Sarajevo and checked into a rented apartment housed in an old building with a faded British Embassy sign still hanging on the wall — a curious reminder of the city’s layered past.
After settling in, we walked to a nearby open-air market and grocery store to buy strawberries, tomatoes, eggs, and a few other essentials for a simple dinner that evening and breakfast the next morning.
Following our quiet dinner at the apartment, we ventured out toward the city center. We visited the Latin Bridge and the nearby assassination site of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, whose death in Sarajevo triggered the beginning of World War I. Standing there at night, it was remarkable to think how one small corner of the city had become tied to such a pivotal moment in world history.
We would have a few more days to explore Sarajevo.
2026年4月27日
早餐后还是二天前送我们来的包车司机来接我们。离开莫斯塔尔（Mostar）, 我们沿着内雷特瓦河（Neretva River）继续北上，途中经过亚布拉尼察（Jablanica）。这座安静的小镇坐落在群山与河谷之间，却因二战时期著名的“内雷特瓦战役（Battle of the Neretva）”而被历史铭记。河边那座倾斜断裂的旧铁路桥，一件巨大的战争遗物, 至今仍静静横跨在河谷上方。
接下来我们又去了科尼茨（Konjic），看另一座风景如画的奥斯曼时期石桥。石桥横跨在翠绿色的内雷特瓦河（Neretva River）之上。虽然它没有莫斯塔尔（Mostar）那座著名古桥那么壮观热闹，但科尼茨的桥也自有一番宁静的魅力，四周被群山、老石屋和平静清澈的河水所环绕。
随后，我们继续前往这次巴尔干之旅中最特别的地点之一——铁托地堡（Tito’s Bunker）。这座正式名称为ARK D-0原子战争指挥地堡（ARK D-0 Atomic War Command bunker）的巨大地下设施，建于冷战时期，目的是在核战争爆发时保护南斯拉夫领导人铁托（Josip Broz Tito）以及部分政府高层官员。据说工程持续了数十年，耗资高达当时的46亿美元，并长期被列为南斯拉夫最高级别的军事机密之一。讽刺的是，地堡完工后，铁托本人却从未踏足这里。它隐藏在科尼茨附近的群山深处，设计上可供约350人在完全与外界隔绝的情况下生存长达六个月。
我们提前在网上预订了门票。先到镇上一家小旅行社付款并领取门票，然后继续驱车约五公里进入偏僻山谷。我们必须把车停在两侧陡峭森林山坡之间，步行前往铁门入口。因为这一带至今仍属于军事管制区域，工作人员特别叮嘱不能拍照。
之后，我们又搭乘一辆园区巴士继续深入限制区域，最终才真正进入地堡内部。颇为有趣的是，一旦进入地堡后，却可以随意拍照，这让之前的禁拍规定显得有些多余，甚至有点好笑。
地堡本身的规模与建造质量都令人惊讶。普通隐避的入口后面，竟隐藏着庞大的地下世界：长长的走廊、会议室、通讯中心、宿舍、办公室、厨房、空调与燃料系统，以及铁托的私人区域一应俱全。整个设施无论设计还是施工，都体现出极高的耐久性与细致程度。
最让我们印象深刻的，是设备保存的状况。虽然地堡完工至今已过去四十多年，但许多机械设备、家具与基础设施看上去依然坚固且功能完整。导游介绍说，大部分设备当年都是由前南斯拉夫本国制造的。她带着几分怀旧感叹道，随着国家解体，那些曾经拥有的工业与技术能力，如今大多已经消失。仔细想想，除了世界上少数几个国家之外，现在又何尝不是如此呢？走在这座深藏于山体中的地下设施里，仿佛进入了一座被完整封存下来的冷战时代时间胶囊。
下午晚些时候，我们抵达萨拉热窝（Sarajevo），入住了我们租的公寓。这是一栋奥匈帝国时期的别墅，内部装饰设计风格非常现代化。这是曾经的英国驻萨拉热窝大使馆，具有浓厚的中欧风格和历史价值，紧贴着奥林匹克博物馆（Olympic Museum）。我们房间门外的墙上竟还挂着一块“英国大使馆（British Embassy）”旧招牌，仿佛无声提醒着人们，这座城市曾经历过怎样复杂而动荡的历史。
安顿下来后，我们去了附近的露天市场和食品店，买了草莓、西红柿、鸡蛋等食材，准备当晚的简单晚餐以及第二天的早餐。
晚饭后，我们步行前往市中心。来到拉丁桥（Latin Bridge）以及附近刺杀奥匈帝国皇储弗朗茨·斐迪南大公（Franz Ferdinand）的地点。这场发生在萨拉热窝的刺杀事件，最终引发了第一次世界大战（World War I）。站在那里，也让我们想起之前在维也纳（Vienna）博物馆里听到的相关历史介绍。旅行有时就像是在“把点连成线（connecting the dots）”，那些原本零散存在于书本、博物馆与记忆中的历史片段，突然在现实中的某个地点彼此连接起来。
夜晚站在桥边，很难不感慨：这座城市里一个看似普通的街角，竟与改变世界历史进程的重大事件紧密相连。
Old Bridge 老桥
April 26, 2026
Visiting Mostar was really all about the Old Bridge (Stari Most)……
来到莫斯塔尔，最重要的事情几乎就是围绕着老桥。。。
April 26, 2026
Visiting Mostar was really all about the Old Bridge (Stari Most). Early in the morning, we visited Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, one of the best places to admire the famous bridge from above. We climbed up the mosque’s minaret for the panoramic view. It was the first time we had ever gone up a minaret in a mosque
Compared with the bell towers of European cathedrals, the minaret was much narrower and more compact. The spiral staircase inside was tight and steep, and the small balcony at the top could hold only a few people at a time. Fortunately, there were not many visitors when we arrived, so we were able to enjoy the space quietly.
The view from the top was absolutely stunning. Below us, the elegant stone arch of the Old Bridge stretched gracefully across the emerald-green Neretva River, connecting the two sides of the old Ottoman town. The red rooftops, stone houses, mosque domes, and slender minarets together created one of the most beautiful scenes we had seen in the Balkans.
Later, we walked to Lučki Most, a newer bridge farther down the river. From there, we waited more than twenty minutes, hoping to witness the famous bridge divers jumping from the Old Bridge into the cold river below. The divers stood on top of the bridge for a long time, collecting donations and building suspense while tourists gathered along both sides of the river with cameras ready. Finally, one diver leaped dramatically into the water far below, drawing cheers from the crowd.
For the rest of the day, we found ourselves crossing the Old Bridge again and again. Every time we walked across it, the bridge revealed a different atmosphere depending on the light, the crowds, and the angle of the river below. Sometimes lively and crowded, sometimes peaceful and reflective, the bridge felt not only like the symbol of Mostar, but also a reminder of the city’s resilience and history.
2026年4月26日
来到莫斯塔尔（Mostar），最重要的事情几乎就是围绕着老桥（Stari Most）。
一早，我们先参观了科斯基·穆罕默德帕夏清真寺（Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque）。我们登上了清真寺的宣礼塔（minaret），这里是俯瞰老桥最经典的位置之一。这也是我们第一次爬上清真寺的宣礼塔。
相比欧洲教堂常见的钟楼，宣礼塔要纤细得多，内部空间也非常狭窄。塔内是盘旋而上的狭窄楼梯，走起来有些陡，而顶部的小阳台面积也很有限，只能容纳少数几个人。幸运的是，当时游客不多，我们得以安静地欣赏古城和老桥的风景。
优雅的老桥横跨在翠绿色的内雷特瓦河（Neretva River）之上，两岸则是典型奥斯曼风格（Ottoman-style）的老城区。从来没见过一个小镇会有大大小小这么多的清真寺，这么多的宣礼塔竖在那里。几乎是任何角度都能看到一个。
随后，我们又走到下游的新桥——卢茨基桥（Lučki Most）。这里是观看老桥跳水表演最好的位置之一。我们站在桥上等了二十多分钟，想亲眼看到著名的“老桥跳水”。
跳水员们一直站在老桥顶端，一边故意制造悬念，一边向游客募捐。桥边和河岸两侧聚满了游客，大家都举着手机等待。终于，其中一位跳水员突然纵身跃下，从高高的石桥跳入冰冷的河水之中，现场立刻爆发出欢呼声。
接下来的一整天，我们一次又一次地走过老桥。每一次经过，它都呈现出不同的氛围。随着阳光角度、人群和河水颜色的变化，这座桥时而热闹，时而宁静。它不仅仅是莫斯塔尔最重要的地标，更像是这座城市历史与重生的象征。镇上的许多建筑墙面上密密麻麻的弹孔时刻提醒着我们波斯尼亚战争对这里所造成的损害。
Ston, Pocitelj, Bunski, Blagaj 斯通 波奇泰利 布恩斯基 布拉加伊
April 25, 2026
We said goodbye to my little sister and her husband,…….
今天妹妹，妹夫与我们道别,。。。
April 25, 2026
We said goodbye to my little sister and her husband, who would continue their journey back to Italy. The four of us would travel onward together through Bosnia, Montenegro, and Albania.
Since the driver did not have a permit to pick us up near the Old Town, we once again had to drag our luggage about 400 meters uphill to meet the car.
As we drove away from Dubrovnik, I could not stop thinking about the Ston oysters we had eaten the night before. I later learned that the famous “Ston oysters” actually came from nearby Mali Ston, not far from the town itself. I checked the map and realized that Ston and Mali Ston were only slightly off our route, requiring perhaps just ten extra minutes. We asked the driver whether we could make a stop there, and he happily agreed.
We drove straight to a restaurant beside the bay at Mali Ston. Unfortunately, it would not open until 11 a.m., another thirty minutes away. The staff pointed us instead to a small roadside oyster bar nearby.
The oyster bar was nothing more than a simple roadside shed, but it was already open. They offered oysters of different ages and prices: €2 each for two-year-old oysters, €3 for three-year-old, €4 for four-year-old, and €5 each for seven-year-old oysters. The older the oyster, the larger it became. This was the first time we had ever heard oysters described and sold by age.
We ordered ten two-year-old oysters, three three-year-old, three four-year-old, and three seven-year-old oysters. They were excellent. The seven-year-old oysters, especially, were incredibly large, meaty, and flavorful. I am not usually a big fan of raw oysters, so I only tried some of the smaller ones, but even I could tell how fresh they were.
The oysters still were not enough for the ladies, so we ordered eight more two-year-old oysters and three additional seven-year-old ones. After thirty-two oysters altogether, everyone finally seemed satisfied, and we continued on our journey.
The town of Ston itself was also historic, famous for its massive defensive walls, sometimes nicknamed the “Great Wall of Europe.” We stopped briefly for photos before continuing.
Crossing from Croatia into Bosnia and Herzegovina was completely uneventful. We simply showed our passports, stepped out of the car for a few photos, and continued on. The only amusing part was that the border camera was mounted unusually high, forcing some of us to stand farther back and awkwardly look upward.
Driving through Bosnia was beautiful and peaceful. Crystal-clear rivers wound through forested mountains, and the scenery immediately made us feel this was a country we would like to explore more deeply in the future.
Our next stop was the historic stone village of Počitelj. Built on a steep hillside overlooking the Neretva River, Počitelj felt almost frozen in time. We climbed the ancient stone stairways all the way up to the old watchtower, carefully exploring the structure along the way. The tower remained in very original condition, with narrow passages, uneven steps, and almost no modern safety protections. We joked that in the United States visitors would probably never be allowed inside under such conditions. There were very few tourists, which made the experience even more atmospheric. The stone roofs, old Ottoman-style houses, and quiet pathways gave the village an authentic feeling that we rarely encounter anymore.
On the way back down, we visited the old mosque before stopping for lunch. We had a delicious chicken dish along with fried Bosnian donuts. Although Počitelj was not the grandest or most elegant historic town we had ever visited, it felt incredibly genuine and untouched.
Another stop that completely surprised us was Bunski Kanal. At first glance it looked almost like a man-made canal, but it was entirely natural. Clear turquoise water rushed powerfully through the narrow rock channel while small waterfalls from another river cascaded down the sides. It was unlike anything we had seen before.
Nearby was Blagaj Tekke, located beside one of Europe’s largest karst spring sources. A powerful river emerges dramatically from a dark cave beneath towering cliffs. Next to the cave stood the historic Dervish monastery, originally built during the Ottoman period as a place for spiritual retreat and worship. The white building, tucked beneath the massive rock wall beside the rushing river, created an unforgettable setting. We did not go inside the monastery itself. Instead, we sat at a riverside café, slowly sipping Bosnian coffee while enjoying the peaceful view and the sound of the water flowing out of the cave.
By evening we arrived in Mostar and checked into two recently remodeled studio apartments that were both modern and comfortable.
After settling in, we headed out to see the city’s most famous landmark, the Old Bridge (Stari Most). Originally built by the Ottomans in the 16th century, the bridge was destroyed during the Bosnian War in 1993 and later reconstructed using many original stones and traditional building techniques. Standing there at sunset, watching the elegant stone arch span the emerald Neretva River once again, felt both beautiful and deeply symbolic.
That evening we had our first Bosnian meal—large platters of grilled meats served with flatbread and local side dishes. Everything was hearty and delicious, leaving us with an excellent first impression of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
2026年4月25日
今天妹妹，妹夫与我们道别，他们将返回意大利继续他们的旅程。而我们四个人则前往我们的下一站——波黑（Bosnia and Herzegovina）的Mostar(莫斯塔尔）。
我们四人包了一辆车，是朋友在网上找的。由于司机来自波黑，没有许可进入老城区附近接人，我们拖着行李，沿着上坡路走了大约400米，才终于上了车。
离开杜布罗夫尼克（Dubrovnik）后，我脑子里一直想着前二天吃到的斯通生蚝（Ston oysters）。后来我才发现，著名的“斯通生蚝”其实主要来自附近的小镇马里斯通（Mali Ston），距离并不远。查看地图，虽然稍微偏离今天去莫斯塔尔的路线，但也不过多花十分钟左右。于是我们问司机能否顺路停一下，他很爽快地答应了。
我们直接开到马里斯通海湾边的一家餐厅，可惜餐厅要到上午11点才营业，还得再等三十分钟。工作人员于是推荐我们去路边一家小小的生蚝吧。
那家生蚝吧其实只是一个简陋的路边小店，但已经开始营业了。他们按照生蚝的“年龄”来定价：两年的2欧元一个，三年的3欧元，四年的4欧元，而七年的则要5欧元一个。生蚝年份越久，个头也越大。这还是我们第一次听说生蚝按“年龄”出售。
我们四人一开始每一种都叫了些，想尝试一下有什么不同。10个二年，3个三年，3个四年的和3个七年的。味道都非常好，尤其是七年的生蚝，个头大，肉质肥厚鲜美。我平时其实并不算特别喜欢吃生蚝，所以只尝了小一点的，但即使如此，也能明显感受到它们的新鲜。
不过这些生蚝明显对三位女士来说还不够，于是我们又追加了10个二年和3个七年的。总共吃下三十二个生蚝后，大家终于满足了，重新踏上旅程。
斯通（Ston）本身也是一座历史小镇，以巨大的城墙闻名，甚至有人称它为“欧洲长城（Great Wall of Europe）”。我们短暂停车拍了几张照片后继续前行。
从克罗地亚（Croatia）进入波黑（Bosnia and Herzegovina）的边境过程非常顺利。我们只是出示护照、下车拍了几张照片便继续前进。唯一让人发笑的是，边境摄像头安装得特别高，有些人不得不仰着头才能拍到。
一路穿行，波黑的景色非常美，清澈见底的河流蜿蜒流过森林覆盖的群山之间，让我们立刻觉得这是一个值得以后更深入探索的国家。
我们的下一站是历史石头小镇波奇泰利（Počitelj）。这座古老小镇建在俯瞰内雷特瓦河（Neretva River）的山坡上，仿佛时间被冻结了一般。我们沿着古老的石阶一路向上，爬到山顶的瞭望塔，小心地探索着塔内结构。整座塔仍保持着非常原始的状态：狭窄的通道、不平整的石阶，几乎没有任何现代安全措施。我们忍不住开玩笑说，如果是在美国，这种地方大概根本不会允许游客进入。
这里游客很少，石头屋顶、奥斯曼风格（Ottoman-style）的老房子，以及安静的小巷，都让这里显得格外真实而古朴，这是如今已经很少能感受到的氛围。
下山途中，我们参观了古老的清真寺（mosque），随后停下来吃午餐。我们点了一道非常好吃的鸡肉，还有香肠以及波黑炸面团甜点。虽然波奇泰利并不是我们见过最宏伟、最精致的古城，但它那种原始而未经商业化的感觉，却令人印象深刻。
另一个让我们非常惊艳的地方是布恩斯基卡纳尔（Bunski Kanal）。第一眼看上去，它几乎像是一条人工开凿的运河，但其实完全是天然形成的。碧绿色的河水在狭窄岩石之间急速奔流，而另一条河流则从旁边形成一道道小瀑布倾泻而下。这种景象我们以前从未见过。
最后停的一站是布拉加伊清真寺修道院（Blagaj Tekke），坐落在欧洲最大的喀斯特地下泉水源之一旁边。一条河流从巨大岩洞中奔涌而出，岩壁高耸陡峭。洞口旁边便是历史悠久的托钵僧修道院（Dervish monastery），最早建于奥斯曼时期，用作修行与静修场所。白色建筑依山傍水，紧贴着巨大岩壁，景色极其震撼。
我们并没有进入修道院参观，而是坐在河边咖啡馆里，一边慢慢喝着波黑咖啡（Bosnian coffee），吃着甜品，一边欣赏河水从洞穴中奔流而出的景象，十分惬意。
傍晚时分，我们抵达莫斯塔尔（Mostar），入住了两套刚刚翻新过的 studio 公寓，现代又舒适。主人非常热情，不仅介绍了小镇的情况，还推荐了饭店。
稍作休息后，我们便前往参观这座城市最著名的地标——老桥（Stari Most）。这座桥最初由奥斯曼帝国于16世纪建造，在波黑战争期间于1993年被毁，后来又使用部分原始石材和传统工艺重新修复完成。傍晚时分，站在桥边，看着这道优雅的石拱再次横跨翠绿色的内雷特瓦河，既美丽，又充满象征意义。
波黑不是欧洲联盟的成员，使用自己的货币，汇率是欧元的一半左右。但欧元也基本通用。走在小镇上满大街全是卖冰激凌的，都会标二个价。在这里吃到了这次行程以来最便宜的冰激凌，一块五欧元。
当晚，我们品尝了第一顿波黑料理——大盘烤肉配面饼和当地配菜。丰盛的晚餐非常美味，也让我们对波黑留下了极好的第一印象。
Lokrum Island, Croatia 洛克鲁姆岛
April 24, 2026
Today we took a ferry to Lokrum Island,……
今天我们搭乘渡轮前往洛克鲁姆岛，。。。
April 24, 2026
Today we took a ferry to Lokrum Island, a small island just off the coast of Dubrovnik. The island is now protected as a natural reserve, peaceful and lush with pine trees, rocky shores, and wandering peacocks everywhere. The birds seemed completely unbothered by visitors, casually strolling along the paths or resting in the shade. Hidden among the greenery were old stone buildings and the remains of what once served as a royal summer residence and monastery, giving the island a quiet historical atmosphere.
One of the island’s most popular attractions was the replica of the Iron Throne from the TV series Game of Thrones, since many scenes connected to King’s Landing were filmed around Dubrovnik. There was a short queue for photo taking. Soon it was our turn to sit on the throne and take photos of “the king.” Afterward, we continued uphill to the old fortress, where the elevated viewpoints overlooked the Adriatic Sea and the red rooftops of Dubrovnik in the distance.
The excursion cost about 30€ per person. If you were not a fan of Game of Thrones, personally I did not feel the trip was entirely worth the price, although the island itself was still peaceful and scenic.
We had lunch on the island before returning to the city. After lunch, our group of six gradually split up. Four people headed back to the apartment to rest, while the two of us continued wandering through Dubrovnik’s Old Town without much of a plan, simply following the maze of narrow stone alleys up and down the hillside.
During our walk, we noticed a small restaurant advertising fresh oysters from Ston, a nearby town famous for its oyster farms. The prices seemed reasonable, so we stopped and ordered ten oysters with a bottle of water. The oysters were incredibly fresh — cold, briny, and full of the taste of the sea. After that, we shared a traditional Dubrovnik dessert cake that was rich, nutty, and creamy, a perfect ending to the afternoon.
After returning to our accommodation, the six of us headed out once more for dinner at the Yacht Club. It was our last dinner in Croatia and also the final meal the six of us would share together. The next day, we would be leaving this beautiful country.
Our time in Croatia had been filled with unforgettable experiences. From ancient towns and stunning islands to dramatic coastlines, waterfalls, and caves, the country offered an incredible variety of landscapes and attractions. Equally memorable was the warmth and friendliness of the local people, who made us feel welcome wherever we went.
It had been a truly remarkable journey, and by the end of our trip, we were already certain that we would return someday to explore more of this beautiful country.
2026年4月24日
今天我们搭乘渡轮前往洛克鲁姆岛（Lokrum Island），这是一座位于杜布罗夫尼克（Dubrovnik）外不远的小岛。如今整座岛已经被列为自然保护区，环境宁静，到处都是松树林、岩石海岸，还有四处悠闲漫步的孔雀。那些孔雀似乎完全不怕游客，时而慢悠悠地走在步道上，时而停在树荫下休息。掩映在树林之间的，还有一些古老石建筑，以及曾作为皇家夏宫和修道院的遗迹，让整座岛带着一种悠远的历史气息。
岛上最热门的景点之一，是电视剧《权力的游戏》（Game of Thrones）中的“铁王座”复制品。由于杜布罗夫尼克周边曾拍摄许多“君临城”（King’s Landing）的场景，这里也成了剧迷的打卡地点之一。现场排着不长的队伍等待拍照，很快便轮到我们坐上铁王座，当一回“国王”。之后，我们继续一路向上步行前往古老堡垒，从高处俯瞰亚得里亚海（Adriatic Sea）以及远处杜布罗夫尼克红色屋顶的景色。
这趟 excursion 船票每人大约30欧元。我个人觉得如果不是《权力的游戏》粉丝的话，性价比并不算特别高，不过小岛本身景色依然宁静漂亮。
我们在岛上吃过午饭后返回老城。之后，四个人回公寓休息，而我们俩则继续漫无目的地在杜布罗夫尼克老城里闲逛，沿着那些狭窄的石板小巷上上下下地穿行。
途中，我们看到一家小餐馆写着供应来自斯通（Ston）的新鲜生蚝。斯通是附近以养殖生蚝闻名的小镇，昨晚吃的生蚝就是产于那里。价格看起来也算合理，于是我们坐下来点了十只生蚝，杜布罗夫尼克传统蛋糕和饮料。生蚝非常新鲜，冰凉、鲜咸，充满海水的味道。蛋糕口感浓郁，带着坚果香与奶油香气，作为下午的小点心十分满足。
回到住处后六人再次出发，前往游艇俱乐部（Yacht Club）去吃晚餐。这是我们在克罗地亚的最后一顿晚餐，也是我们六人在一起的最后一顿晚餐。明天我们就要离开这个美丽的国家。这段时间在克罗地亚（Croatia）的旅行，不仅有古老城镇、海岛海岸、瀑布、洞穴，令人难忘的风景、还有当地人的热情友善，真是一段非常难忘的旅程，我们也已经觉得，未来一定还会再回来。
City Wall Walk杜城墙漫步
April 23, 2026
Walking the City Walls was the most popular tourist attraction in Dubrovnik……
漫步杜布罗夫尼克城墙是这座城市最受欢迎的旅游项目，。。。
April 23, 2026
Walking the City Walls was the most popular tourist attraction in Dubrovnik and the activity we had looked forward to most on this trip.
We entered the wall at the entrance near the chapel of Luke and climbed up to the Tvrđava Minčeta, the highest point on the wall where we saw our rented house. On the way to Pile gate we enjoyed the views of the red roofs of the old houses and church tower inside the wall, and Dubrovnik city outside and the SDR mountain. We took so many pictures.
Then we walked along the coastal line and understood the defensive and strategic positions of the wall. In the end, we went back to the point where we started.
We had lunch near the ferry port. The food was excellent, but the view was even better, with beautiful scenery overlooking the harbor.
After lunch, we visited the Dubrovnik Cathedral before walking down the historic Jesuit Stairs toward the Franciscan Monastery.
Inside the monastery, we visited a pharmacy that has been operating since 1317—one of the oldest continuously functioning pharmacies in Europe. We also explored the monastery’s pharmacy museum, which displays centuries-old medical instruments, manuscripts, and remedies, offering a fascinating glimpse into the history of medicine in Dubrovnik.
Then we continued our excursion to the fortress just outside the wall. Not much to see inside the fortress but the view of the old city was amazing.
We walked back to the house for a short nap. Then we ventured out again to see the sunset at SDR mountain.
There are three options to go up the hill, hiking, Uber or Cable car. I decided to hike up and the rest took Uber on the way up. It took about one hour to hike on zigzag gravel paths up while enjoying the view of the old city and coastline.
The sunset view at the top was magnificent and one of the bests we had had previously.
Our original plan was to take the cable car down but we changed our mind in the last minute after we found the cable car cost five times more than Uber.
On the way down the mountain, our Uber driver kindly stopped at a scenic viewpoint so we could capture what was arguably the best angle of Dubrovnik’s Old Town at sunset.
We then asked the driver to drop us off at the restaurant we had chosen for dinner. To our surprise, the small restaurant was packed, and we were told the wait would be at least forty minutes. Since we had specifically come for the seafood, we decided to stay and wait.
It turned out to be well worth it. Every dish we ordered was outstanding, and we finally had the chance to try the local oysters. The fresh seafood, excellent food, and wonderful atmosphere made the experience memorable.
It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.
2026年4月23日
漫步杜布罗夫尼克城墙（Dubrovnik City Walls）是这座城市最受欢迎的旅游项目，也是我们这次旅行中最期待的活动。
我们从圣卢克小教堂（Chapel of St. Luke）附近的入口登上城墙，一路爬到明切塔堡（Tvrđava Minčeta）。这里是整段城墙的最高点，从那里甚至能看到我们租住的房子。然后前往派勒门（Pile Gate），在途中，城墙内老城区密密麻麻的红色屋顶、教堂钟楼，以及城墙外的新城区和斯尔季山（Srđ Mountain）尽收眼底。一路景色太美，我们不停拍照。
随后，我们沿着靠海一侧的城墙继续前行，也逐渐理解了这座城墙在过去的重要防御与战略作用。最后，我们绕了一整圈，又回到了最初登墙的地方。
中午，我们在渡轮码头附近吃午餐。食物非常不错，但更令人难忘的是餐厅外的景色。
下午，我们参观了城里最古老的药房（Old Pharmacy）以及药房博物馆（Pharmacy Museum）。这间药房已有数百年历史，据说是欧洲最古老、至今仍在营业的药房之一。
之后，我们继续前往城墙外的洛夫里耶纳茨堡（Fort Lovrijenac）。堡垒内部其实没有太多展览可看，但从那里眺望杜布罗夫尼克老城的景色非常美丽。
回到住处后，我们小睡休息了一会儿。傍晚时分，我们再次出门，前往斯尔季山（Srđ Mountain）看日落。
上山有三种方式：徒步、搭Uber或乘坐缆车（Cable Car）。我决定徒步上山，其余人则坐Uber。沿着之字形的碎石山路一路向上，大约花了一个小时。过程中可以不断俯瞰老城与海岸线，景色十分漂亮。等我终于到达山顶时，他们五人早已在山顶的餐厅喝咖啡了。
山顶的日落壮观无比，是我们至今看过最美的日落之一。
原本我们计划乘缆车下山，但最后一刻改变了主意，因为发现缆车票价竟然差不多是Uber的五倍。
下山途中，Uber司机还特意停在一个观景点，让我们拍摄老城夕阳的最佳角度。我们让司机把我们送到今晚的餐厅。没想到小餐厅生意兴隆，我们被告知至少需要等四十分钟以上。因为是特地冲着这家店的海鲜来的，大家决定等。还真是来对地方了。这家小餐厅的每一道菜都非常出色，也终于吃到了当地的生蚝。这一天堪称完美。
To Dubrovnik, Croatia 前往杜布罗夫尼克, 克罗地亚
April 22, 2026
We opted to take the five-hour ferry from Split to Dubrovnik instead of the bus……
一早在旅馆用完早餐，便走去不远处的码头。。。
April 22, 2026
We opted to take the five-hour ferry from Split to Dubrovnik instead of the bus. The ferry sailed between islands and made several stops along the way. Unfortunately, the weather was poor and the ride turned quite rough. A few passengers became seasick. We managed fine, though another hour or two at sea might have changed that.
After arriving at Dubrovnik Port, we called an Uber to our accommodation. At the port, the driver asked whether our destination was inside or outside the Old Town walls. Our rental was located just outside the city walls. In the end, he dropped us off about 400 meters away because he did not have a permit to drive farther. Fortunately, it was all downhill. Still, it felt dishonest — he probably should not have accepted the ride, or Uber should not have allowed it. The good thing was that we learned how the access restrictions worked and were better prepared later when another driver from a neighboring country picked us up.
The place we stayed was in a 17th-century building just outside the walls. It had an incredible view, and the hosts were exceptionally kind. They had stocked the refrigerator with basic groceries, from milk to bread. It was the first time we had experienced this level of hospitality — far beyond our expectations.
After settling in, we walked down the long staircase toward Pile Gate. The first thing we did was purchase a three-day Dubrovnik Pass, which included the city walls, museums, and public transportation.
We then visited the Rector’s Palace, one of Dubrovnik’s most important historic buildings. It once served as the seat of government of the Republic of Ragusa and the residence of the Rector.
Later, we went to a Michelin-recommended restaurant for traditional Croatian cuisine. The meal was deeply satisfying.
After dinner, we headed to Buža Bar, perched on the cliffs outside the city walls. Although the sun was off to the side, the cliffside views over the Adriatic were still spectacular. Dubrovnik immediately proved worthy of its reputation.
2026年4月22日
一早在旅馆用完早餐，便走去不远处的码头。我们选择搭乘五小时的渡轮从斯普利特（Split）前往克罗地亚最著名的城市——杜布罗夫尼克（Dubrovnik），而不是坐巴士。渡轮一路穿行于岛屿之间，并在途中停靠了几个小港口。可惜天气不好，海面颠簸得相当厉害，不少乘客都晕船了。船上工作人员相当负责，不停地来回查看，看见有乘客不舒服会递上一瓶水。我们还算撑得住，不过如果再多航行一两个小时，情况可能就不一样了。
抵达杜布罗夫尼克港（Dubrovnik Port）后，我们六人叫了二辆Uber 前往住宿地点。Connie她们三人的Uber非常顺利，直接在租房的街边把她们放下。而我叫的司机在港口时先问我们目的地是在老城墙内还是外。我们租住的地方位于城墙外不远处。结果他因为没有许可继续往前开，只把我们放在离住宿约四百米的地方。幸好一路都是下坡，拖着行李还算轻松。不过这件事多少让人觉得不太诚实——他其实不应该接这单，或者 Uber 平台本身就不该允许这样的接单。好的一面是，我们因此提前了解了老城区周边的交通限制，几天后另一位来自邻国的司机来接我们时，我们就更有经验了。
我们租的房子是一栋建于17世纪的独立的老建筑，就在城墙外侧，视野极佳。我们把整栋房子租下，房东人也特别热情贴心，冰箱里提前准备好了牛奶、果汁和水。厨房里放了面包等基本食物，各种咖啡应有尽有。房子虽老，但里面装修的很舒适。花园里种满了各种果树，桔子，橙子，柠檬和枇杷。还有一个观景阳台，老城城楼和海近在咫尺。这是我们第一次遇到如此超出预期的住宿体验，令人印象深刻。
安顿下来后，我们沿着长长的石阶一路向下，前往派勒门（Pile Gate）。第一件事，就是购买了三天有效的杜布罗夫尼克通票（Dubrovnik Pass），其中包含城墙、博物馆以及公共交通。
随后我们参观了总督府（Rector’s Palace）。这是杜布罗夫尼克最重要的历史建筑之一，曾经是拉古萨共和国（Republic of Ragusa）的政府所在地，也是总督的官邸。
晚餐我们来到一家米其林推荐餐厅，品尝传统克罗地亚料理，整顿晚餐令人十分满足。
之后我们前往位于城墙外悬崖边的布扎酒吧（Buža Bar）看日落。虽然太阳偏向侧面，但亚得里亚海（Adriatic Sea）边的悬崖景色依然惊艳。杜布罗夫尼克的美果然名不虚传，而杜布罗夫尼克的上上下下的台阶则让人腿脚发软。
Cathedral & Meštrović Gallery 大教堂和梅什特罗维奇美术馆
April 21, 2026
Yesterday, we arrived at the Cathedral of Saint Domnius just as it was closing,……
昨天我们去参观圣多米纽斯大教堂时刚好到了关门的时间，。。。
April 21, 2026
Yesterday, we arrived at the Cathedral of Saint Domnius just as it was closing, so we made a special trip back today. We toured the cathedral and its museum and climbed the bell tower, where we were rewarded with sweeping views of Split’s Old Town and the Adriatic coastline.
Another large cruise ship had arrived in Split today, and groups of tourists could be seen throughout the city. The Vestibule in the old town was especially crowded. Several young men stood in the center singing in harmony, their voices echoing beautifully off the ancient stone walls. During Roman times, this space was likely a fully enclosed circular hall topped with a dome, somewhat resembling a smaller version of the Pantheon. Over the centuries, as Diocletian’s Palace was repeatedly modified, dismantled, and repurposed, the dome gradually deteriorated and eventually disappeared, leaving the open-air space we see today. Although we had already visited several times during our stay, we paid the 2-euro admission fee to access the upper level and admire this remarkable structure from a different perspective.
Near our hotel was a bustling farmers market selling fresh fruits, vegetables, and a variety of local foods. Yesterday afternoon, we noticed a small shop specializing in roasted suckling pig, but it had already sold out. Today, we returned for lunch and patiently waited for a fresh batch to come out of the oven. We ordered one kilogram of piping-hot roasted suckling pig, with crispy skin and tender, juicy meat—it was absolutely delicious. We also picked up various local pastries, smoked meats, and fresh fruit from nearby vendors. Along the way, we spotted people eating something that looked very much like Chinese scallion pancakes. Curious, we asked where they had bought them and immediately went to get a few ourselves. Before long, we had accumulated a feast of local specialties and brought everything back to the hotel for a wonderful meal.
In the afternoon, we took an Uber to the Meštrović Gallery. The building was once the private residence of the renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović. Widely regarded as Croatia’s most important artist, Meštrović not only achieved international acclaim through his work but also built this impressive seaside home. Later in life, he emigrated to the United States, taught at University of Notre Dame, and eventually passed away in South Bend, Indiana. The gallery houses an extensive collection of his sculptures from different periods of his career, and the breadth and quality of the works left a lasting impression on us.
After our visit, we followed a series of steps down to the shoreline and leisurely walked back toward the city center along the coast. The scenery was peaceful and beautiful. A gentle sea breeze accompanied us, and from time to time a light drizzle drifted through, adding to the tranquil atmosphere.
After several enjoyable days in Split, it was once again time to move on. Tomorrow we would be trying yet another mode of transportation as we continued to our next destination. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped by the ferry terminal to familiarize ourselves with the route and purchase our tickets in advance. We looked forward to the journey ahead.
2026年4月21日
昨天我们去参观圣多米纽斯大教堂（Cathedral of Saint Domnius）时刚好到了关门的时间，于是今天特地再来一次。我们参观了教堂及其博物馆，还登上了钟楼，从高处俯瞰斯普利特老城与海岸风景。
今天又有大邮轮来斯普利特，街头上能看到一队队的游客。旧城中的前厅（Vestibul）里的游客特别多，有几位男生站在中央高声合唱，回音在石墙之间不断回荡，非常动听。在罗马时期，这里很可能原本是一个完整封闭的圆形大厅，上方覆盖着穹顶，类似缩小版的万神殿。后来随着戴克里先宫在中世纪以后不断被改建、拆除和重新利用，这座穹顶逐渐损毁甚至消失，最终变成了如今的露天空间。这几天我们已经来过这里好几次，但今天还是特地花了2欧元登上上层区域，从不同角度再次欣赏这座古老建筑。
在我们入住的旅馆附近有一个农贸市场，卖各种新鲜水果和蔬菜等，同时还有不少当地小吃店。昨天下午走过时看到一家卖烤乳猪的小店，生意很好，烤肉已售磬。今天午餐我们又来到这里，硬是等着烤猪下架，点了1公斤热气腾腾的烤乳猪，外皮酥脆、肉质鲜嫩，非常美味。又在周围其它小店买了各种当地的面食，薰肉，水果等。路上看见有人在吃类似葱油饼的东西，赶紧问哪里有卖，也去买上几块。买了一大堆好吃的，一起带回到旅馆，大家好好地美餐了一顿。
下午我们乘坐Uber前往梅什特罗维奇美术馆（Meštrović Gallery）。这座建筑曾是著名雕塑家伊万·梅什特罗维奇（Ivan Meštrović）的私人住宅。作为克罗地亚最重要的艺术家之一，他不仅艺术成就卓著，也成功建造了这座气势不凡的海景住所。后来他移居美国，并在圣母大学（University of Notre Dame）任教，最终在印第安纳州南本德去世。馆内陈列了他不同时期的大量作品，内容丰富，令人印象深刻。
参观结束后，我们沿着台阶一路走到海边，顺着海岸线慢慢步行返回市中心。沿途风景宁静而优美，海风轻拂，偶尔还下起了一点点小雨。
来斯普利特玩了好几天，又到了挪地方的时候。明天我们又要换个交通方式去下一站。在回旅馆途中，我们俩先去渡轮码头探个路，同时也把渡轮票买好。期待明天的到来。
Split, Croatia 斯普利特
April 20, 2026
We started our day by visiting the Golden Gate of Diocletian’s Palace,……
我们从参观戴克里先宫金门（Golden Gate）开始了这一天。。。
April 20, 2026
We started our day by visiting the Golden Gate of Diocletian’s Palace, where we joined the tradition of touching the big toe of the statue of Grgur Ninski for good luck. The large bronze sculpture was created by the renowned Croatian artist Ivan Meštrović, and its polished toe—worn shiny by countless visitors—seemed to promise just that.
Just above the Golden Gate, we visited a small church—considered the oldest in Split—perched atop the ancient arch. Inside, we had a warm and unexpected conversation with a kind elderly nun, a quiet and memorable moment.
We then wandered deeper into the Old Town, passing through Peristyle Square on our way to visit the substructures of Diocletian’s Palace.
We spent more than an hour exploring the vast underground halls beneath the palace. Built around 300 AD during the reign of Emperor Diocletian, these basement chambers are remarkably well preserved. One fascinating detail is that the layout below mirrors the imperial apartments that once stood above. Since the upper floors were largely destroyed or altered over the centuries, these substructures provide a rare glimpse into the original design. Ironically, they survived largely intact because they were used as a dumping ground for centuries, which helped fill and protect them. Among the highlights was an ancient oil press, still standing as a reminder of daily life long ago. Parts of these halls were also used as filming locations for Game of Thrones, though we couldn’t quite identify the scenes ourselves since we didn’t watch the movie.
Afterward, we exited through the Bronze Gate and returned to the hotel for a short lunch break. In the afternoon, we came back to the palace once more, strolling through its narrow alleys and admiring the blend of architectural styles layered over centuries and ancient 24 hour Roman City Clock on the tower of St. Arnir.
In the evening, we celebrated my sister’s birthday with friends. It was her first time celebrating a birthday outside China, which made the occasion even more meaningful. Family time like this is truly something to appreciate.
2026年4月20日
我们从参观戴克里先宫金门（Golden Gate）开始了这一天。在门外，我们也加入了当地的传统——触摸格尔古尔·宁斯基（Grgur Ninski）雕像的大脚趾，据说可以带来好运。这座巨大的青铜雕像出自著名克罗地亚雕塑家伊万·梅什特罗维奇（Ivan Meštrović）之手，被无数游客触摸过的脚趾已经被磨得发亮，仿佛真的能带来好运。
就在金门上方，我们参观了一座所见过的最小的教堂——被认为是斯普利特最古老的教堂之一，坐落在古老城门的拱顶之上。在那里，我们与一位和蔼的老修女有了一段温暖而意外的交谈，成为当天一个难忘的瞬间。
随后我们继续深入老城，花了一个多小时参观戴克里先宫地下大厅（Diocletian’s Palace substructures）。这些地下空间建于公元约300年，是罗马皇帝戴克里先（Diocletian）时期的遗迹，保存得非常完好。一个非常有意思的细节是，这些地下结构的布局与当年地面上的皇宫居住区几乎完全对应。由于上层建筑在之后的几个世纪中被不断改建甚至毁坏，这些地下大厅反而成为了解原始宫殿格局的重要依据。颇为讽刺的是，它们之所以能保存下来，是因为曾长期被当作垃圾填埋场，反而起到了保护作用。其中一个亮点是一台古老的榨油设备，至今仍静静伫立，让人联想到当年的日常生活。这里的部分空间也曾作为电影《权力的游戏》（Game of Thrones）的取景地，同伴是影迷，知道的非常多，能认出具体场景。不过由于我们俩没有看过这部剧，觉得只是一个古迹而已。
参观结束后，我们从青铜门（Bronze Gate）离开，回到酒店稍作休息并用午餐。下午我们再次回到宫殿，在狭窄的巷道中漫步，欣赏这座城市层层叠加、跨越多个世纪的建筑风格。
晚上，我们和朋友一起为妹妹庆祝生日。这是她第一次在中国以外的地方过生日，也因此显得格外有意义。这样的家庭时光，尤其值得珍惜。
Blue & Green Caves 蓝洞与绿洞
April 19, 2026
We got up early and had breakfast at the hotel……
我们一大早起床，在酒店吃了早餐。。。
April 19, 2026
We got up early and had breakfast at the hotel. By 7:30 a.m., we were already on our way to the meeting point for a 10-hour cave tour.
Around 8 a.m., the operator began boarding passengers onto black rubber speedboats, about 12 people per boat. We were initially among the first to arrive, but since some of us had taken a taxi and were delayed, we ended up boarding the last boat.
While waiting at the dock, I noticed a Chinese man walking toward us. Something about him felt strangely familiar. That’s impossible, I told myself. It must just be someone who looks like him. Could it really be him—a classmate I had seen just last year? I tried to make eye contact, but he didn’t respond. Since both of us were late, we ended up boarding the same boat.
The speedboat had saddle-style seats, which looked odd at first but proved to be more comfortable and practical than traditional seating. Soon we were speeding across the Adriatic at around 24 knots, bouncing over the waves for about 90 minutes toward our first stop: the Blue Cave. During the ride, I kept thinking about that familiar face. Could it really be him? The odds seemed impossibly low—meeting a classmate in another country, on a 12-person boat.
At the first stop, I finally had encouragement to ask him.
“Yes,” he said. It was him.
What a small world. Travel has a way of creating the most unexpected and delightful encounters.
To enter the Blue Cave, we had to transfer to a small boat operated by local guides and pay an additional €18 per person. The cave entrance had been widened in the past to allow small boats inside, but entry still depends on sea conditions—if the waves are too high, boats cannot enter.
From the outside, the cave looks like a narrow opening in the rocky coast. But once inside, the scene transforms completely. The cave glows with an almost unreal blue light. Sunlight enters through an underwater opening and reflects off the white limestone seabed, turning the water into a bright, luminous blue.
We stayed inside for only about five minutes, but the memory will last far longer.
We then stopped at Komiža, a charming seaside village known as a filming location for Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again.
Next came Stiniva Beach, formed by the collapse of a cave roof. Surrounded by steep cliffs, it’s one of the most dramatic beaches in Croatia, though access is restricted during peak season.
Our visit to the Green Cave offered a completely different but equally memorable experience. Located on Ravnik Island, the cave is larger and more open than the Blue Cave. A natural opening in the ceiling allows sunlight to stream inside, creating a dramatic beam of light that penetrates the crystal-clear water below. The sunlight reflects off the algae-covered rocks and the seabed, filling the cave with a soft emerald-green glow. We were fascinated by the interplay of light and color and managed to capture a photograph of the opening in the ceiling, along with a shimmering green reflection on the water below. It was a beautiful and unique natural phenomenon that left a lasting impression on us.
What fascinated us most was how the light beam slowly shifted across the cave as the boat drifted , giving the entire space a dynamic, almost mystical quality.
We continued on to the Pakleni Islands, once used as private gardens for wealthy residents who cultivated rare plants. What caught our attention more, however, were the sea urchins scattered along the rocky shoreline.
Our final stop was Hvar for 2.5 hours, where we enjoyed a relaxing lunch featuring a fresh fish platter and a short hike to Fortica Fortress. Afterward, we boarded the boat again for the roughly one-hour ride back to Split.
After returning to town and having Thai food for dinner, the night still felt young. We wandered through the old town, enjoying the lively atmosphere under the soft glow of evening lights and deep blue sky.
Although this was one of the best boat tours we’ve taken—filled with stunning natural sights like the Blue and Green Caves—what I appreciated most was something completely unexpected: meeting a classmate, thousands of miles away from where we live, in a place neither of us had planned to be, at exactly the same time.
Travel doesn’t just take you to new places—it creates moments you could never plan, only experience.
2026年4月19日
我们一大早起床，在酒店吃了早餐。7:30我们就已经出发走去集合点，准备参加一个10小时的洞穴跳岛游。
大约8点，运营方开始安排乘客登上黑色橡皮快艇，每艘船大约12人。我们原本是最早上船的一批，但因为同伴膝盖受伤，打车过来晚了一会儿，结果我们反而成了最后一批上船的乘客。
在码头等待时，我注意到有一位中国男士朝我们走来。他看起来非常眼熟。我心想，这不可能，一定只是长得像而已。可真的会是他吗——一个去年我才在上海刚见过的大学同学？我试着和他对视，但他没有回应。接着我们便上了同一艘船。
这艘快艇的座位是类似马鞍式的设计，乍一看有点奇怪，但实际坐起来比传统座位更舒适也更实用。很快我们以大约24节的速度在亚得里亚海上飞驰，颠簸前行了约90分钟，前往第一个目的地——蓝洞。在船上，我一直在想着那张熟悉的脸。会真的是他吗？
到了第一个停靠点，我终于鼓起勇气问他。“是的。”他说。真的是他。一个人从上海来欧洲，几乎是以背包式的方式快速的在不同国家，不同城市之间穿梭。他昨晚上刚到，一早走到码头，看到有船，问一下是否还有空位。而我们因为等朋友也等到最后上船。就这样阴差阳错的遇上了。在一个小国家、一个小城市，在一艘只有12个人的小船上遇见同学，这种概率实在太低了。世界真小。旅行总是会带来一些意想不到的惊喜。
参观蓝洞需要换乘由当地人驾驶的小船，并额外支付每人18欧元。洞口曾经经过扩展，以便小船可以驶入，但是否能够进入仍取决于海况——如果海浪太大或涨潮，小船就无法进入
从外面看，蓝洞只是岩石海岸上的一个狭小入口。但一旦进入内部，景象完全不同。洞内被一种几乎不真实的蓝色光芒所充满。阳光通过水下的开口射入，反射在白色石灰岩海底，将整个洞穴映照成通透的蓝色。
我们在洞内只停留了大约五分钟，但这段记忆却会留存很久。
随后我们前往科米扎（Komiža），这是一个迷人的海边小镇，也是电影《妈妈咪呀2》（Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again）的取景地之一。我们在这里喝了咖啡，然后去小镇里转悠了一下。
接着来到斯蒂尼瓦海滩（Stiniva Beach），这里是由洞穴坍塌形成的海湾，被高耸的悬崖包围，是克罗地亚最具戏剧性的海滩之一，据说旺季时会限制进入。
之后的绿洞之行则带来了完全不同、同样难忘的体验。绿洞位于拉夫尼克岛（Ravnik Island），空间更大也更开阔。洞顶有一个天然开口，阳光从上方直射进来，在水中形成一道明显的光柱。水中的藻类和海底反射出柔和的翠绿色光芒。最让人着迷的是，随着船只缓缓漂移，光束在洞内不断移动、扫过不同角度，让整个空间显得流动而神秘。
随后我们前往帕克莱尼群岛（Pakleni Islands），这里曾是富人种植珍稀植物的花园。而更吸引我们注意的，是海岸岩石间随处可见的海胆。
最后一站是赫瓦尔岛（Hvar）。当初计划这次欧洲游时曾有想过在岛上住二晚。我们在这里享用了丰盛的午餐，一份新鲜的鱼类拼盘令人非常满足。之后，我们再次登船，经过约一个小时的航程返回斯普利特（Split）。
回到城里吃完晚饭后，我们在老城中随意漫步，在柔和的灯光下感受热闹的夜晚氛围。
虽然这是我们第一次体验蓝洞和绿洞，也是一次非常精彩的跳岛海上之旅，但让我印象最深的，却是一个完全意料之外的瞬间：在距离我们生活地数千英里的异国他乡，在一个毫无关联的地方，我和我的同学不约而同地相遇了，真是奇迹。
旅行不仅带你去新的地方，也会带来那些你无法计划、只能亲身经历的瞬间。
Travel to Split, Croatia 前往斯普利特
April 18, 2026
Before leaving Zadar in the morning,……
早上在离开扎达尔之前，。。。
April 18, 2026
Before leaving Zadar in the morning, we walked south along the coastline, deliberately avoiding the more touristy areas and wandering into neighborhoods closer to local life. The atmosphere there was peaceful and relaxing, making for a very pleasant start to the day.
Today we tried a different mode of transportation — taking a public bus from Zadar to Split. Over the past few years of traveling around Europe, we had taken FlixBus several times and found it both comfortable and convenient, especially for shorter trips. We paid a few extra euros each to reserve seats in the very front row of the upper deck, which offered the best panoramic views along the journey.
A little over two hours later, we arrived in Split, another famous Croatian port city. The first thing we noticed after getting off the bus was the sight of three large cruise ships docked along the waterfront, a clear sign of the city’s popularity with travelers. Our hotel was conveniently located just a short walk from the bus station, making it easy to settle in after the journey.
Since we planned to hike up to a viewpoint for sunset later that evening, we decided to have an early dinner. After checking into the hotel, we headed out in search of seafood and enjoyed our first seafood dinner in Split. The meal was absolutely delicious—fresh, flavorful, and beautifully prepared—and it gave us an excellent first impression of the city.
With the weather being pleasant, we spent the evening hiking up to Telegrin Viewpoint to watch the sunset. The uphill climb was a bit tiring, but we took our time and paused frequently to admire the views overlooking the city and coastline. Although the scenery along the way was beautiful, the sunset itself was not quite as spectacular as we had expected.
Later that evening, we purchased tickets for the next day’s Blue Cave boat tour. Since we had to leave early the following morning, we returned to the hotel and rested early as well.
2026年4月18日
早上在离开扎达尔（Zadar）之前，我们沿着海岸线向南走了一段，刻意避开游客较多的区域，走进了更接近当地人生活的街区。这里安静而惬意，是一种很放松、很舒服的氛围。
今天我们尝试了不同的交通方式——乘坐公共巴士从扎达尔到斯普利特。这几年在欧洲旅游已坐过多次Flixbus，觉得舒适且很方便，短途的话是个不错的选择。我们每人多付了几欧元预订座位，特意选择了上层第一排的位置，视野最好，可以一路欣赏沿途的风景。
二个多小时之后我们抵达斯普利特，克罗地亚的另一个著名的旅游港口城市，下了大巴我们首先看到的是三艘大邮轮。我们入住的旅馆离巴士站不远，走几分钟就到。因为想上山顶看日落，我们决定吃个早晚餐。街上的人真不少，许多是从邮轮上下来的。在旅馆安顿好后便出门去。在斯普利特的第一顿海鲜晚餐非常美味，这座城市给我们留下了很好的第一印象。
由于天气不错，我们傍晚步行登上了特莱格林观景点（Telegrin Viewpoint）观看日落。一路上坡有点累，还好沿途走走停停，俯瞰城市和海岸的景色还不错。但相比期待的来说，山上看到的日落并没有特别惊艳。
晚上我们提前购买了第二天蓝洞（Blue Cave）一日游的门票。因为第二天一早就要出发，我们也早早回到酒店休息。
Tesla & Sea Organ 特斯拉和海风琴
April 17, 2026
Before we got on the road today,……
April 17, 2026
Before we got on the road today, we quietly slipped back into Plitvice Lakes National Park to take one more look at the waterfalls under the morning sunshine. The same cascades we had seen the day before now shimmered in a completely different light—clearer, brighter, almost sparkling.
The same driver who dropped us off two days ago came to pick us up again. He lives about 20 minutes from the park. Along the way, we casually asked whether there were bears in the area. He smiled and said he would show us something. Soon, he stopped in front of a fenced enclosure in his town, where we saw two large brown bears living inside. We learned that a wealthy local man had found them as cubs in the forest and raised them. After a 12-year legal battle with the government, he was finally allowed to keep them. It was completely unexpected and quite memorable.
On the way, we stopped at Church of Croatian Martyrs at Udbina. The white church stood peacefully under a bright blue sky, simple yet solemn.
We then visited the Nikola Tesla Memorial Center Smiljan, the birthplace of Nikola Tesla. The site includes the house where he was born and the church where his father served as an Orthodox priest. Tesla was born into a Serbian family and is often considered Serbian, yet Croatia also proudly regards him as one of its own. His contributions to radio communication, electricity, and motors were immense.
One of his quotes displayed there felt strikingly modern: “The whole earth will be converted into a huge brain… we shall be able to communicate with one another instantly, irrespective of distance… and the instruments will be small enough to be carried in a vest pocket.” It clearly foresaw today’s world of smartphones.
At the center, we also saw a demonstration of the Tesla coil, illustrating wireless energy transfer. Watching electricity arc through the air was fascinating.
After about two hours of driving, we arrived in Zadar. Our hotel was brand new and very comfortable. After settling in, we headed out to explore the Old Town.
We visited the Roman Forum in Zadar and several nearby historic churches, but the highlight of the day was sitting on the stone steps by the sea, listening to the hauntingly beautiful sounds of the Sea Organ. As the waves moved through a network of pipes hidden beneath the waterfront promenade, they created natural, ever-changing melodies unlike anything we had heard before. At the same time, we watched a spectacular sunset over the Adriatic Sea, with one side of the sky glowing in brilliant shades of gold, orange, and pink, while the other remained a deep, clear blue. The striking contrast made the scene even more unforgettable.
Here are two pictures taken at the similar time after sunset.
We ended the evening with a delicious dinner at a nearby restaurant. The service was exceptional. The waiter quickly noticed that we liked to share every dish and thoughtfully brought each of us an individual plate whenever our food arrived. It was a small gesture, but one that made us feel especially welcome. The food itself was outstanding—fresh, flavorful, and beautifully prepared.
After dark, we returned to see the Greeting to the Sun, a modern installation powered by solar energy. Its illuminated glass panels displayed constantly shifting patterns of light, creating a mesmerizing display. The colors and rhythms seemed to echo the music of the Sea Organ just steps away, blending art, nature, and technology into a uniquely memorable experience. It was one of those magical evenings that will stay in our memories long after the trip has ended.
Today, we traveled from mountains and waterfalls to the sea and sunset—from the power of nature to the brilliance of human invention. It was a day full of contrast, discovery, and reflection.
2026年4月17日
在普利特维采湖群国家公园（Plitvice Lakes National Park)住了二晚，今天又要挪地方，前往下一站。在今天正式出发前，大清早我们又再次进入公园，想在清晨的阳光下再看一眼那些瀑布。前一天见过的层层水流，在晨光映照下呈现出完全不同的样子——更加清澈、更加明亮，几乎闪闪发光。
我们还是继续用包车接送服务，两天前送我们来公园的司机今天再次来接我们。他家就在离公园大约20分钟的地方。路上我们随口问起这里是否有熊出没，他笑了笑，说要带我们去看点东西。不久，他把车停在小镇的一处围栏前，我们看到两只体型巨大的棕熊生活在里面。原来，当地一位富人当年在森林中发现这两只幼熊，将它们带回抚养。后来围绕是否可以继续饲养的问题，他与政府打了12年的官司，付出巨款最终才得以保留。这段经历既意外，又令人难忘。
途中我们在克罗地亚殉道者教堂（Church of Croatian Martyrs at Udbina）停留。洁白的教堂在湛蓝天空下显得格外宁静而庄重。
随后我们来到尼古拉·特斯拉纪念中心（Nikola Tesla Memorial Center Smiljan），这里是尼古拉·特斯拉（Nikola Tesla）的出生地。园区内保留着他出生的房屋，以及他父亲曾担任东正教神职人员的教堂。特斯拉出生于塞尔维亚族家庭，通常被视为塞尔维亚人，但克罗地亚同样把他视为引以为傲的杰出人物。他在无线通信、电力系统和电机等领域的贡献极其深远。
纪念中心中展示的一段话令人印象深刻：“整个地球将变成一个巨大的大脑……人类将可以在任何距离下瞬间彼此沟通……而所使用的设备，将小到可以放入口袋中。”这几乎就是对今天智能手机时代的精准预言。
在中心内，我们还参与了特斯拉线圈（Tesla Coil）的演示，展示无线能量传输。看着电流在空气中跳跃，既震撼又令人着迷，也让我意识到自己对这位伟大发明家的了解其实十分有限。
大约两个小时车程后，我们抵达扎达尔（Zadar）。入住的酒店崭新而舒适。先在酒店好好吃了顿午餐，稍作休整后，我们便前往老城。
我们参观了扎达尔罗马广场（Roman Forum Zadar）以及周边的教堂，坐在在广场上喝一杯咖啡，再来个冰淇淋看人来人往。但最令人难忘的，是坐在海边台阶上，静静聆听海风琴（Sea Organ Zadar）发出的声音。海浪拍打石阶，将空气压入地下的管道，奏出低沉而悠远的旋律。与此同时，我们欣赏着亚得里亚海（Adriatic Sea）上壮丽的日落景色。
看完日落也正好到了我们预订的晚餐时间。靠海吃海，今晚主打海鲜美食。饭店生意兴隆，不仅仅是菜好吃，今晚也遇到了这次行程以来最热情周到的服务员，不用问，便主动帮我们分汤，分菜加盆子。让我们吃的心满意足。
我们再次回到海边去看扎达尔的另一景点——向太阳致敬（Greeting to the Sun Zadar）。这个由太阳能板组成的现代装置在夜晚亮起灯光，变化的图案，与海浪的节奏形成奇妙的呼应。
这一天，我们从瀑布与群山出发，来到大海与落日之间；从自然的壮丽，到人类智慧的闪光，完成了一次跨越式的体验。旅程在不断变化，而感受也在不断加深。
Plitvice Lakes National Park 十六湖国家公园
April 16, 202
After seeing Iguazu Falls last year,……
在去年见识过伊瓜苏瀑布之后，。。。
April 16, 202
After seeing Iguazu Falls last year, we didn’t expect any waterfalls to excite us this much again. But this day completely changed that. We spent eight hours in the park, and from the moment we walked in until the last minute we boarded the shuttle, we were constantly surrounded by waterfalls—both visually and audibly. The experience felt surreal and unforgettable, almost beyond words.
In the morning, we took the park shuttle tram from St2 near Entrance #2 to St3, driving up the winding road through the forest toward the Upper Lakes. From there, we followed the K route to a scenic viewpoint overlooking the lakes and cascades.
Then continued along the H route deeper into the park. Along the way, waterfalls of all sizes connected the park’s famous sixteen lakes, creating an ever-changing landscape. We walked along wooden paths and trails that seemed to float between the lakes, with crystal-clear water on both sides. At times, we were completely surrounded by water—falls above and below, in front and behind—an immersive experience unlike any other.
Early spring brought high water levels, and in some sections the lakes had spilled over onto the wooden paths. Parts of the boardwalk were slightly submerged, and we found ourselves walking just inches above the water’s surface, as if floating between the lakes.
Along the trail, we paused to photograph newly emerging spring plants and a bird perched on a tree branch. The lake water was so crystal clear that we could easily see the bottom, adding to the magical feeling of the landscape.
Around midday, we took the boat from P2 to P3 and had a simple lunch—just a burger. After a short break, we continued walking toward the grand finale: the dramatic Great Waterfall (Veliki Slap), where the powerful cascade brought the entire experience to a perfect climax.
At the end of the day, we took the shuttle back. Dinner was at Black River, another restaurant within the hotel complex, a relaxing close to a long and memorable day.
2026年4月16日
在去年见识过伊瓜苏瀑布之后，我们原以为再也不会有瀑布能让我们如此兴奋。但今天彻底改变了我们的看法。我们在公园里整整走了八个小时，从踏入园区的那一刻起，到最后登上接驳车离开，始终被瀑布环绕——耳边是此起彼伏的水声，眼前是层层叠叠的水景。那种沉浸式的体验既震撼又梦幻，几乎难以用语言形容。
早上我们从酒店旁2号入口（Entrance #2）附近的St2站搭乘园内接驳车，沿着林间蜿蜒的山路缓缓上行，前往上湖区附近的St3站。随后沿着K线路步行至观景点，从高处俯瞰湖泊与瀑布，再接上H线路继续深入探索。一路上，大大小小的瀑布将公园著名的十六个湖泊串联在一起，景色层层展开、不断变化。
我们行走在湖岸之间的木栈道上，清澈的湖水就在脚边，有时甚至仿佛漂浮在水面之上。四周皆是水景——上有飞瀑，下有流水，前后左右都被水环绕，沉浸感极强。初春水位较高，有些路段湖水漫上了木栈道，部分栈道略微被淹。行走其间，仿佛贴着水面前行，如同在湖与湖之间漂浮穿行，格外梦幻而难忘。
中午我们从P2码头乘船到P3，简单吃了个汉堡作为午餐。短暂休息后继续前行，前往壮观的大瀑布（Veliki Slap）。水流从高处倾泻而下，气势磅礴，彩虹也短暂的出现了一下，为整个行程画上了完美句号。
最后我们乘坐接驳车返回酒店。晚餐在酒店园区内的另一家餐厅Black River享用。大家走了一整天，值得用一顿美味的晚餐来犒劳自己。
“Little” Plitvice Waterfalls – Rastoke“小普利特维采”瀑布
April 15, 2026
We booked another transfer through Daytrip.com. The driver arrived about 10 minutes late and we headed out toward our first stop, Dubovac Castle. Perched quietly on a hill, the medieval fortress felt somewhat underwhelming. The castle itself was quite simple, and a large group of school students on a field trip filled the courtyard. We paid €3 per person to enter, but there wasn’t much to see, and even the tower was not open.
On the way to Plitvice Lakes National Park, we made another short stop at Rastoke, a charming watermill village where waterfalls seemed to flow right beneath the old stone and wooden houses. With rushing streams, small bridges, and lush spring greenery, it’s often nicknamed “Little Plitvice.” The scenery was undeniably beautiful.
There was a ticket kiosk for entering the boardwalk along the river. The park charged €9 for a group ticket covering four people, or €5 for an individual ticket. Our driver suggested that for the six of us, we should buy one group ticket plus two individual tickets, for a total of €19, so we followed his advice. Only afterward did one of us realize that buying two group tickets would actually have cost just €18. We all burst out laughing. What a strange ticketing system!
However, the most memorable part of the stop turned out to be unexpected—the food. By the time we arrived, we were both cold and hungry. We walked into a small café and sat down in a cozy, wood-fired heated room. We ordered four mushroom soups, and to our surprise, they brought out six bowls along with an entire pan of soup for sharing. It was one of the best mushroom soups we’ve ever had, easily comparable to those on Crystal Cruises.
We then checked into Hotel Jezero, located just outside the park entrance. One advantage of staying here is that you only need to purchase a one-day park ticket, which can be extended to cover the duration of your stay.
After settling in, we headed into the park for a brief first look. We boarded the electric boat across the lake to P2, then transferred to another boat to P3 for our first glimpse of the park’s famous scenery. Afterward, we took the park shuttle back to Entrance #2. Although the weather was cloudy, the short visit gave us an exciting preview of what was to come the next day.
For dinner, we went to Lička Kuća. Since it’s part of the hotel complex, a free shuttle was provided. The lamb and fish dishes were interesting, offering a taste of traditional local cuisine.
2026年4月15日
我们对前几天通过 Daytrip.com 订的包车接送服务很满意。今天再次用Daytrip订了另一段包车接送服务。今天的司机不如上次的那位司机准时，晚了大约十几分钟才来到我们的住宿。随后我们出发前往第一站杜博瓦茨城堡（Dubovac Castle）。这座中世纪城堡静静矗立在山丘之上，但整体感觉略显平淡。城堡规模不大，当天还有不少学生在这里进行校外活动。我们花了每人3欧元入内参观，但可看的内容真在不多，连塔楼也没有开放。
在前往普利特维采湖国家公园——中文简称十六湖（Plitvice Lakes National Park）的途中，我们又短暂停留在拉斯托克（Rastoke）。沿河木栈道入口处设有售票亭。公园对四人团体票收费9欧元，个人票则是每人5欧元。司机建议我们六个人买一张团体票再加两张个人票，总共19欧元，于是我们就照做了。
其实如果直接买两张团体票，只要18欧元，反而还便宜1欧元。大家顿时都笑了起来。真是个让人哭笑不得的售票制度！
这是一个迷人的水车村，瀑布仿佛从古老的石屋与木屋脚下流过。潺潺的水流、小桥以及春日的绿意，让这里被称为“小普利特维采”。眼前的景色非常美。
不过，这一站最让人难忘的却是一次意外的美食体验。到达时我们又冷又饿，没什么可选择，直接就走进了这家湖边餐厅，没其他客人，就我们六人坐在由木柴炉取暖的温暖房间里。除了肉之外，我们点了四份蘑菇汤，结果服务员端上一整锅，并给了六个汤盆，让大家可以一起共享热汤。那是我们喝过最美味的蘑菇汤之一，完全可以媲美水晶邮轮（Crystal Cruises）上的水准。
随后我们继续前往国家公园，入住在耶泽罗酒店（Hotel Jezero），酒店就位于公园入口附近。住在这里的一个好处是，只需购买一天的门票，就可以延长使用，覆盖整个停留期间。
稍作安顿后，我们进入公园先来个初步了解。先乘坐电动船横渡湖面到P2，再换乘另一艘船到P3，第一次近距离看到公园的湖水与瀑布。随后我们乘坐园区接驳车返回2号入口。虽然天气有些阴，但这次短暂的探访已经让人对第二天的行程充满期待。
晚餐我们前往利卡之家餐厅（Lička Kuća）。由于餐厅属于酒店体系，酒店提供了免费接驳车。都说这里的羊肉好吃，这里的羊肉和鱼都颇具当地特色，味道也很有意思。
Zagreb, Croatia 萨格勒布，克罗地亚
April 14, 2026
At Škocjan Caves, we met a Chinese girl studying in Italy who had visited Zagreb before……
昨天在 什科茨扬溶洞 （Škocjan Caves）参观什科茨扬溶洞时，。。。
April 14, 2026
At Škocjan Caves, we met a Chinese girl studying in Italy who had visited Zagreb before. She casually told us that one hour would be enough to see the city. In reality, we ended up spending an entire day exploring Croatia’s capital—and still felt it was well worth the time.
In the morning, we wandered through the Upper Town (Gornji Grad), the historic heart of the city. We visited the imposing Zagreb Cathedral, admired the colorful tiled roof of St. Mark’s Church, and explored the surrounding old streets filled with quiet charm. We walked through the hidden Zagreb WWII Tunnels, which once served as wartime shelters and now connect different parts of the old town. Nearby, we also stopped by the medieval Lotrščak Tower. Every day at noon, the tower fires a cannon with a loud explosion to mark the exact time—a tradition dating back to 1877. The sudden boom echoed through the city, and we had no idea what it was until we later climbed the tower and saw the cannon ourselves.
The city still showed signs of recovery and renovation following recent earthquakes, with scaffolding visible on several historic buildings. Yet despite this, Zagreb felt relaxed, walkable, and quietly beautiful.
For lunch, we kept things simple with a comforting bowl of tomato and egg soup, followed by a short rest.
In the afternoon, we strolled through the elegant “Green Horseshoe” in the Lower Town (Donji Grad), a series of connected parks and squares laid out in a graceful U-shape. Spring was in full display—tulips were in bloom, adding bright colors to the already charming scenery. Around the parks stood grand buildings housing museums and galleries, including those dedicated to Nikola Tesla, whose legacy remains closely tied to Croatia.
Zagreb felt like a smaller, quieter version of a classic Central European city—clean, calm, and easy to enjoy at a slow pace. It may not overwhelm with famous landmarks, but its charm reveals itself the longer you stay.
In the evening, we continued sampling the local cuisine and chose a tapas-style restaurant near our hotel. The dishes were beautifully presented, full of flavor and aroma, and thoroughly satisfying — even better than the restaurant we had tried the night before.
2026年4月14日
昨天在 什科茨扬溶洞 （Škocjan Caves）参观什科茨扬溶洞时，我们遇到了一位在意大利留学的中国女生。她曾去过萨格勒布 （Zagreb），轻描淡写地说，一个小时就足够看完这座城市。我们却花了整整一天时间探索这座克罗地亚的首都，仍然觉得非常值得。
一早我们先去住宿附近的菜市场买了面包，蔬菜，水果及烟熏肉。大家吃饱喝足后，出门先去上城区（Gornji Grad），也就是这座城市最古老的部分。我们参观了萨格勒布大教堂 （Zagreb Cathedral），因为几年前的地震而受损，大教堂还在修复，里面大部分东西被暂时拿下，另外保存。我们走进了隐藏在地下的 二战地道 （Zagreb WWII Tunnels），这些通道曾是战时避难所，如今连接着老城的不同区域。我们在安静的老街中随意穿行，坐在街旁的小咖啡馆门口喝上一杯，感受这里悠闲的氛围。有着色彩鲜艳的拼瓦屋顶的圣马可教堂 （St. Mark’s Church）是老城区的一景。我们还上到不远处中世纪的洛特尔什察克塔 （Lotrščak Tower），到目前为止仍然在每天中午12点准时放一炮——这一传统可以追溯到1877年。我们早上在老街闲逛时炮声突然在城市上空炸响，当时我们完全不知道发生了什么，直到后来登上塔楼才弄明白，也看到了那门用于报时的古老火炮。
这座城市依然可以看到地震之后修复的痕迹，不少历史建筑外还搭着脚手架。但即便如此，萨格勒布依旧显得轻松、宜步行，带着一种低调而宁静的美感。
这些天在外油腻的吃多了，午餐我们回到住宿，自己简单做一道西红柿，蘑菇鸡蛋汤，再来点清炒蔬菜，还有当地的烤面包和薰肉等，吃得舒舒服服。
稍作休息之后，下午我们来到下城区（Donji Grad），沿着优雅的“绿色马蹄形公园”（Green Horseshoe）漫步。这是一组呈U形分布、相互连接的公园和广场。此时正值春天，郁金香盛开，为城市增添了色彩。公园周围分布着许多气派的建筑，里面是各类博物馆和美术馆。在其中一处广场上，我们还看到尼古拉·特斯拉（Nikola Tesla）的雕像，静静伫立，仿佛守望着这座城市的过去与未来。
或许没有令人震撼的顶级地标，萨格勒布给人的感觉，就像一座缩小版的中欧城市——干净、安静、节奏舒缓。
晚上继续品尝当地美食，选了住宿附近的另一家饭店，色香味俱全，相当不错，胜过昨晚上的那家。
Škocjan Cave and Ljubljana 斯科契扬溶洞与卢布尔雅那
April 13, 2026
Before leaving for Zagreb, we went out to see an old Roman outdoor theater near our hotel……
今天一早在酒店用完早餐，。。。
April 13, 2026
Before leaving for Zagreb, we went out to see an old Roman outdoor theater near our hotel. This was also the first time we booked a private transfer with stops through Daytrip.com, which turned out to be a very convenient way to travel.
Our driver picked us up at 10 a.m. The border crossing was smooth, and about 30 minutes later we arrived at Škocjan Caves. Before entering, he took us to a viewpoint overlooking the cave entrance, where we could see a dramatic sinkhole and a zigzag hiking path carved into the cliff descending into the earth. Even from above, the scale was impressive.
Škocjan is one of Slovenia’s most dramatic cave systems and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its underground “Grand Canyon”. Unlike Postojna Cave, which feels like a grand, decorated underground palace, Škocjan feels raw, wild, and powerful.
We then joined an English guided tour. For safety reasons, photography and video are not allowed inside, which made the experience feel more immersive. The highlight was the vast underground canyon carved by the Reka River. As we walked along narrow paths clinging to the rock walls, we could hear the river roaring far below. At times, we crossed bridges suspended inside enormous limestone chambers, surrounded by darkness and echoing water. The cave reaches depths of over 200 meters, and some chambers rise nearly 100 meters high, creating a sense of scale that is hard to comprehend.
Standing there, with mist in the air and soft lighting illuminating the cliffs, it felt less like visiting a cave and more like stepping into another world—an experience unlike anything we had encountered before.
When we exited the cave, we wondered how we would manage to climb all those steep steps back up to the visitor center. We slowly started making our way upward, already feeling the effort, when suddenly we spotted a funicular waiting nearby. What a relief—we didn’t have to make the long ascent after all.
After the cave visit, we continued on to Ljubljana, a charming and compact capital city. The driver dropped us at Ljubljana Castle, where we took in the views before walking down into the old town.
We enjoyed a relaxed lunch featuring local sausages and three different soups, then strolled through the lively streets and across the iconic Triple Bridge. Since we had visited Ljubljana three years earlier, this felt like a pleasant revisit rather than a rushed sightseeing stop.
In the afternoon, we continued our journey to Zagreb, crossing the border with stop. There, we reunited with two friends from Philadelphia who would be traveling with us through Croatia. That evening, all six of us gathered at a restaurant to enjoy our first Croatian meal together and toasted to the journey ahead.
2026年4月13日
今天一早在酒店用完早餐，我们先去酒店附近参观了一处古罗马露天剧场。然后才告别意大利，离开的里雅斯特，前往克洛地亚(Croatia)首都萨格勒布（Zagreb)。
我们又一次改变计划，没有坐大巴，而是第一次通过 Daytrip 预订带中途停靠景点的包车服务。司机在上午10点来酒店接我们。过境都不用停车，直接开过。大约30分钟后我们抵达了在斯洛文尼亚的斯科契扬溶洞(Škocjan Caves)。在进入洞穴之前，司机先带我们到一个观景点，从高处俯瞰一条之字形步道沿着峭壁蜿蜒而下，通往地下深处。仅仅站在上方眺望，就已经能感受到它的规模之宏大。
斯科契扬溶洞是斯洛文尼亚最壮观的洞穴系统之一，也是联合国教科文组织世界遗产。随后我们参加了英文导览团。出于安全考虑，洞内禁止拍照和录像，这反而让整个体验更加专注。我们沿着紧贴岩壁的小路下行，不一会儿脚下深处传来河水奔腾的轰鸣声。有时需要穿过悬挂在巨大洞厅中的桥梁，四周是无尽的黑暗与回声。我们最深走到离地面超过200米的地方，而部分洞厅的高度接近100米，这种尺度让人难以用语言形容。站在其中，空气中弥漫着水汽，柔和的灯光照亮岩壁，仿佛进入了地球的内部世界。这种体验与我们以往参观过的任何洞穴都完全不同。
走出洞穴时，我们还在担心该如何走回通往游客中心的那一长串陡峭台阶。我们开始费力往上爬了一会儿，没想到突然看到前方正停着一辆上山缆车。真是柳暗花明又一村，顿时松了一口气——原来不用一路辛苦爬上去了。
离开溶洞后，我们继续前往斯洛文尼亚的卢布尔雅那（Ljubljana), 这是一座精致而迷人的首都城市。我们俩几年前来过这里，还住了几天，很喜欢。这次顺路带妹妹和妹夫来看看。司机将我们送到卢布尔雅那城堡（Ljubljana Castle），我们在山顶拍照后步行下山进入老城。
我们享用了一顿简单午餐，包括当地香肠和三种不同的汤, 味道很不错。之后漫步穿过老城街道，走过著名的三重桥（Triple Bridge），由于几年前已经来过这里，这次更多是一种轻松的重游，而不是匆忙的打卡。
下午司机继续驱车将我们送达到目的地萨格勒布。在那里，我们与两位从费城赶来的朋友会合，一同开始接下来的克罗地亚之旅。晚上六个人一起去了一家不错的餐厅，享用了第一顿克罗地亚美食，并为接下来的旅程举杯庆祝。