Cathedral & Meštrović Gallery 大教堂和梅什特罗维奇美术馆
April 21, 2026
Yesterday, we arrived at the Cathedral of Saint Domnius just as it was closing, so we made a special trip back today. We toured the cathedral and its museum and climbed the bell tower, where we were rewarded with sweeping views of Split’s Old Town and the Adriatic coastline.
Another large cruise ship had arrived in Split today, and groups of tourists could be seen throughout the city. The Vestibule in the old town was especially crowded. Several young men stood in the center singing in harmony, their voices echoing beautifully off the ancient stone walls. During Roman times, this space was likely a fully enclosed circular hall topped with a dome, somewhat resembling a smaller version of the Pantheon. Over the centuries, as Diocletian’s Palace was repeatedly modified, dismantled, and repurposed, the dome gradually deteriorated and eventually disappeared, leaving the open-air space we see today. Although we had already visited several times during our stay, we paid the 2-euro admission fee to access the upper level and admire this remarkable structure from a different perspective.
Near our hotel was a bustling farmers market selling fresh fruits, vegetables, and a variety of local foods. Yesterday afternoon, we noticed a small shop specializing in roasted suckling pig, but it had already sold out. Today, we returned for lunch and patiently waited for a fresh batch to come out of the oven. We ordered one kilogram of piping-hot roasted suckling pig, with crispy skin and tender, juicy meat—it was absolutely delicious. We also picked up various local pastries, smoked meats, and fresh fruit from nearby vendors. Along the way, we spotted people eating something that looked very much like Chinese scallion pancakes. Curious, we asked where they had bought them and immediately went to get a few ourselves. Before long, we had accumulated a feast of local specialties and brought everything back to the hotel for a wonderful meal.
In the afternoon, we took an Uber to the Meštrović Gallery. The building was once the private residence of the renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović. Widely regarded as Croatia’s most important artist, Meštrović not only achieved international acclaim through his work but also built this impressive seaside home. Later in life, he emigrated to the United States, taught at University of Notre Dame, and eventually passed away in South Bend, Indiana. The gallery houses an extensive collection of his sculptures from different periods of his career, and the breadth and quality of the works left a lasting impression on us.
After our visit, we followed a series of steps down to the shoreline and leisurely walked back toward the city center along the coast. The scenery was peaceful and beautiful. A gentle sea breeze accompanied us, and from time to time a light drizzle drifted through, adding to the tranquil atmosphere.
After several enjoyable days in Split, it was once again time to move on. Tomorrow we would be trying yet another mode of transportation as we continued to our next destination. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped by the ferry terminal to familiarize ourselves with the route and purchase our tickets in advance. We looked forward to the journey ahead.
2026年4月21日
昨天我们去参观圣多米纽斯大教堂（Cathedral of Saint Domnius）时刚好到了关门的时间，于是今天特地再来一次。我们参观了教堂及其博物馆，还登上了钟楼，从高处俯瞰斯普利特老城与海岸风景。
今天又有大邮轮来斯普利特，街头上能看到一队队的游客。旧城中的前厅（Vestibul）里的游客特别多，有几位男生站在中央高声合唱，回音在石墙之间不断回荡，非常动听。在罗马时期，这里很可能原本是一个完整封闭的圆形大厅，上方覆盖着穹顶，类似缩小版的万神殿。后来随着戴克里先宫在中世纪以后不断被改建、拆除和重新利用，这座穹顶逐渐损毁甚至消失，最终变成了如今的露天空间。这几天我们已经来过这里好几次，但今天还是特地花了2欧元登上上层区域，从不同角度再次欣赏这座古老建筑。
在我们入住的旅馆附近有一个农贸市场，卖各种新鲜水果和蔬菜等，同时还有不少当地小吃店。昨天下午走过时看到一家卖烤乳猪的小店，生意很好，烤肉已售磬。今天午餐我们又来到这里，硬是等着烤猪下架，点了1公斤热气腾腾的烤乳猪，外皮酥脆、肉质鲜嫩，非常美味。又在周围其它小店买了各种当地的面食，薰肉，水果等。路上看见有人在吃类似葱油饼的东西，赶紧问哪里有卖，也去买上几块。买了一大堆好吃的，一起带回到旅馆，大家好好地美餐了一顿。
下午我们乘坐Uber前往梅什特罗维奇美术馆（Meštrović Gallery）。这座建筑曾是著名雕塑家伊万·梅什特罗维奇（Ivan Meštrović）的私人住宅。作为克罗地亚最重要的艺术家之一，他不仅艺术成就卓著，也成功建造了这座气势不凡的海景住所。后来他移居美国，并在圣母大学（University of Notre Dame）任教，最终在印第安纳州南本德去世。馆内陈列了他不同时期的大量作品，内容丰富，令人印象深刻。
参观结束后，我们沿着台阶一路走到海边，顺着海岸线慢慢步行返回市中心。沿途风景宁静而优美，海风轻拂，偶尔还下起了一点点小雨。
来斯普利特玩了好几天，又到了挪地方的时候。明天我们又要换个交通方式去下一站。在回旅馆途中，我们俩先去渡轮码头探个路，同时也把渡轮票买好。期待明天的到来。