Polar Bear 北极熊
July 8, 2026
I had always thought the polar bear protection protocols……
以前我总觉得听说过的北极熊安全保护措施似乎有些过于谨慎，
July 8, 2026
I had always thought the polar bear protection protocols I had heard about were overly cautious—until today.
We were scheduled to arrive in Ny-Ålesund, a research settlement that includes a Chinese research station, at 7:00 a.m. I woke up early, and soon the PA announced that a polar bear had been spotted near the port. I joined many other passengers on deck to photograph the bear with my telephoto lens.
Following protocol, the ship remained offshore while local safety personnel fired warning shots and used a boat to drive the bear away from the settlement. I may even have captured a photo of the bear with the flash from one of the warning shots in the background.
At the same time, several whales and dolphins were swimming around the ship. It was quite an eventful morning.
Because the bear had been sighted near the settlement, additional precautions were taken. Only half of the passengers were allowed to go ashore at first, with the remaining passengers following later. Armed security personnel were stationed throughout the area. Even our walk to the historic Airship Mast (Mooring Mast) had to be escorted by armed guards at both the front and back of the group.
The famous airship Norge was moored to this mast before its historic 1926 flight over the North Pole. The 35-meter steel tower served as both the boarding and mooring point for the expedition and remains one of Ny-Ålesund’s most iconic landmarks. The airship shown in the photo on the left was added by ChatGPT to illustrate what the scene might have looked like in 1926.
The town was much more interesting than we had expected. It is home to the world's northernmost post office, as well as a hotel and a small supermarket. During the winter, only about 30 people live there.
After leaving Ny-Ålesund, we cruised through nearby fjords and saw several wild reindeer grazing on the tundra, eating as much as they could before the long Arctic winter. We even spotted another polar bear—or perhaps the same one that had been chased away from the settlement earlier that morning. In the end, we reached 79° north latitude—the farthest north we had ever traveled, deep in the Arctic.
It was an extraordinary day filled with Arctic wildlife, breathtaking landscapes, and unforgettable experiences. It is a day we will never forget.
2026年7月8日
以前我总觉得听说过的北极熊安全保护措施似乎有些过于谨慎，直到今天，我才真正理解其含义。
我们原定于早上7点抵达新奥勒松（Ny-Ålesund）。这里是一座科研小镇，包括中国在内的多个国家都在这里设有科研站。我一早便起床，想看着我们的船进港。不久船上的广播就宣布：港口附近发现了一只北极熊。我立刻带着长焦镜头来到甲板，和许多乘客一起拍摄这位“主角”。
按照当地的安全规定，邮轮必须停留在海面上等待。岸上的安全人员先发射警示弹，又驾驶快艇将北极熊驱离居民区。我甚至可能拍到了北极熊与警示弹火光同框的画面。与此同时，几头鲸鱼又在船边游弋，让整个早晨格外热闹。
由于北极熊出现在居民区附近，当地采取了更严格的安全措施。邮轮将乘客分批上岸，先安排一半乘客上岸，随后换另一半乘客登陆。岸上到处都能看到携带枪械的安全人员。就连我们前往历史悠久的飞艇系留塔（Airship Mast）的途中，也必须由前后各一名持枪警卫全程护送。
著名飞艇“挪威号”（Norge）正是在这里停泊，并于1926年从这里启程，完成了飞越北极的历史性航行。这座35米高的钢制系留塔既是飞艇的停泊设施，也是当年登艇的地方，如今已成为新奥勒松最具代表性的地标之一。
这个小镇比我们想象中更有意思。它是Svalbard 群岛中的一部分，比我们昨天停留的朗依尔镇要更北一些，已经到达北纬78度55秒，也是世界上最北的有常住居民的地方和有世界最北端的邮局，还有一家旅馆和一家小型超市。到了冬季，整个小镇常住人口只有约30人。因为是纯科研小镇，不能有任何信号干扰，我们船上的WiFi和手机都必须关掉。
离开新奥勒松后，我们继续巡游附近的峡湾，同时也到达这次北极游的最北点，北纬79度，有照片为证。又看到了几只野生驯鹿正在苔原上悠闲觅食，抓紧时间为漫长的冬天储备能量。随后，我们还远远发现了另一只北极熊，也许就是早晨被驱离居民区的那一只。
这是令人震撼的一天。短短一天之内，我们不仅近距离见到了北极熊、鲸鱼和驯鹿，还欣赏了壮丽的北极风光。这段经历无疑将成为此次北极之旅最难忘的回忆之一。
Longyearbyen 朗伊尔城
July 7, 2026
This morning, we enjoyed a scenic cruise through Billefjorden and Isfjorden,……
今天上午，我们乘坐邮轮穿行于比勒峡湾（Billefjorden）和伊斯峡湾（Isfjorden）中，。。。
July 7, 2026
This morning, we enjoyed a scenic cruise through Billefjorden and Isfjorden, taking in the dramatic Arctic landscape and distant glaciers. Along the way, we caught a glimpse of Pyramiden, an abandoned Russian mining settlement, from a distance. Its deteriorating buildings, rusting pipes, and remnants of mining operations were a stark reminder of the complicated and lasting impact human activity can have on this remote Arctic environment.
After lunch, we arrived in Longyearbyen. During our previous visit, we had already taken two excursions, so this time we chose to enjoy a relaxed afternoon with a visit to the Svalbard Museum.
We began by walking along the coastal road toward the famous polar bear warning sign, which reminds visitors that carrying a firearm for protection is required beyond that point because of the risk of encountering polar bears. After taking a few photos, we explored the museum, where we learned more about the history, wildlife, and unique environment of the Svalbard Islands. We then caught the shuttle bus back to the ship, satisfied with another pleasant and unhurried day in the High Arctic.
As we sailed into and out of Longyearbyen, the expedition team also pointed out two abandoned Russian mining settlements and shared the stories behind their rise and decline, offering another fascinating glimpse into Svalbard's history.
2026年7月7日
今天上午，我们乘坐邮轮穿行于比勒峡湾（Billefjorden）和伊斯峡湾（Isfjorden）中，欣赏着壮丽的北极风光和远处的冰川。
航行途中，我们远远望见了皮拉米登（Pyramiden），一座已经废弃的俄罗斯采矿小镇。那些逐渐破败的建筑、锈迹斑斑的管道以及遗留下来的采矿设施，与周围荒凉而原始的北极风光形成了鲜明的对比，也让我们感受到，人类活动曾经给这片遥远的北极土地留下了复杂而持久的印记。
午餐后，邮轮抵达朗伊尔城。由于三年前来到这里时，我们俩已经参加过两项岸上活动，这次便决定悠闲地散步，并参观斯瓦尔巴博物馆。
我们沿着海岸步道慢慢前行，来到著名的北极熊警示牌。警示牌提醒游客，越过此处后，由于可能遇到北极熊，必须携带枪械作为防身装备。拍照留念后，我们参观了斯瓦尔巴博物馆，进一步了解群岛的历史、野生动物以及独特的自然环境。随后，我们搭乘接驳巴士返回邮轮。
邮轮进出朗伊尔城的途中，还航经了两座废弃的俄罗斯煤矿小镇。船上工作人员向我们讲述了这些煤矿从繁荣到没落的历史，也让我们对斯瓦尔巴群岛复杂而独特的历史有了更深入的认识。
Barents Sea 巴伦支海
July 6, 2026
Today was our first full day at sea after five consecutive port stops,……
今天是连续五天停靠港口之后，。。。
July 6, 2026
Today was our first full day at sea after five consecutive port stops, and it felt good to slow down and enjoy a relaxing day onboard.
This morning, we were scheduled to enjoy a scenic cruise past Bear Island (Bjørnøya), part of the Svalbard Archipelago. Unfortunately, heavy fog completely obscured the view, and we weren’t able to see the island at all. The disappointment was soon made up for by another Coastal Kitchen demonstration, where we sampled fresh Arctic sweet shrimp. The shrimp were incredibly fresh, naturally sweet, and absolutely delicious. We also learned a handy trick for peeling the shells quickly and easily.
Fortunately, the weather improved somewhat later in the day. Besides doing some laundry and birdwatching from the deck, we attended several interesting lectures presented by the expedition team. It was a pleasant change of pace after several busy days exploring ports along the Norwegian coast.
In the evening, we treated ourselves to another king crab dinner, this time choosing the large 3.1 kg crab we had spotted on the first day the tank was stocked. Surprisingly, the king crab on the ship cost only 1,400 NOK per kilogram, almost one-third of what our friend had paid in Bergen. Even better, it was prepared more to our liking this time and tasted absolutely delicious. Since our friend had generously treated us to the king crab dinner in Bergen, this time it was our turn to pick up the tab.
It turned out to be a wonderfully relaxing day on the Barents Sea, filled with good food and a welcome opportunity to simply enjoy life onboard.
2026年7月6日
今天是连续五天停靠港口之后，我们第一次有一整天都在海上航行。终于可以放慢脚步，轻轻松松地享受一天的船上时光，感觉十分惬意。
今天上午，邮轮从熊岛（Bear Island / Bjørnøya）附近驶过。熊岛是斯瓦尔巴群岛的一部分，原本我们可以从船上欣赏岛上的风光。遗憾的是，海上浓雾弥漫，四周白茫茫一片，熊岛完全隐没在浓雾之中，我们什么也没有看到。
不过，这一点小小的遗憾很快就被又一次“挪威海岸厨房”（Coastal Kitchen）的美食体验弥补了。这次我们品尝的是新鲜的北极甜虾（Arctic sweet shrimp）。虾肉鲜嫩清甜，十分美味，我们还学到了一个快速又轻松剥虾壳的小窍门。
幸运的是，下午天气稍有好转。除了洗洗衣服、站在甲板上观鸟之外，我们还参加了船上工作人员举办的几场很有意思的讲座，悠闲地度过了一个下午。
晚上，我们又犒劳了自己一顿帝王蟹大餐。这一次，我们挑中了那只重达 3.1公斤的大螃蟹——正是第一天餐厅水箱里刚放入帝王蟹时，我们就看中的那一只。船上的活帝王蟹每公斤只要 1,400挪威克朗，差不多只有我们朋友在卑尔根请我们吃的那顿帝王蟹价格的三分之一。上次在卑尔根朋友慷慨地请我们吃了帝王蟹，这一次自然轮到我们来买单了。
就这样，我们在巴伦支海度过了悠闲而愉快的一天。有美食相伴，也终于有机会放慢脚步，静静享受海上的邮轮生活。
Storfjellet Hike 徒步
July 5, 2026
Today we docked in Honningsvåg, the gateway to the North Cape……
今天，我们停靠在霍宁斯沃格。。。
July 5, 2026
Today we docked in Honningsvåg, the gateway to the North Cape. Since we had already visited the iconic globe monument at the North Cape in 2023, I decided to skip the excursion there and instead join a hike to Storfjellet, led by one of the expedition staff members along with several fellow passengers.
The hike began right at the pier and took us through the town center. The real climb started with approximately 1,000 stone steps, commonly known as the Sherpa Stairs, leading up to a hytta near the summit of Storfjellet. Across Norway, skilled Sherpas from Nepal have built stone stairways on many popular hiking trails to reduce erosion while preserving the natural character of the landscape. The craftsmanship was remarkable. Although the trail is carefully engineered, it still feels like a natural mountain path rather than a constructed staircase.
At the summit, a modern hytta welcomed hikers with a wood-burning stove and simple wooden benches. We gathered inside to warm up with a hot drink while enjoying the panoramic views.
Our descent followed a gentler trail marked by stone cairns. Under beautiful sunny skies, we enjoyed spectacular views of Honningsvåg Harbor and the surrounding coastline. Along the way, our expedition guide introduced us to several Arctic plants, including compass rose and alpine bistort. I even tasted the small bulbils of the alpine bistort, which are edible and have a mild, nutty flavor. The hike covered about 5 km (3.1 miles) with approximately 1,000 feet (300 m) of elevation gain. It was another memorable Arctic hike.
By the time we returned to the ship, it had started to rain. My enthusiasm for exploring, however, hadn’t faded, so despite the weather, I headed back into town for another walk.
We had learned an amusing fact about Honningsvåg: to qualify as a city under Norwegian law, it supposedly had to have a roundabout. The roundabout is so tiny that many vehicles simply drive over it rather than around it. I happened to catch the perfect moment—a van driving straight over the little roundabout—and took a picture.
As we departed Honningsvåg, we attended another Norway’s Coastal Kitchen presentation, featuring a tasting of reindeer meat and an introduction to this traditional local food. Later, we enjoyed a Sámi-inspired dinner, giving us another opportunity to experience the cuisine of northern Norway.
In the evening, we attended a lecture about the Sámi people, the Indigenous people of northern Europe. Their traditional homeland, known as Sápmi, stretches across the northern regions of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia. It was an interesting introduction to their history, culture, and traditional way of life.
Then the ship sailed past the dramatic North Cape Cliff and Knivskjellodden, the true northernmost point of mainland Europe, marked by a small lighthouse. Although North Cape itself is not the continent’s northernmost point, its broad plateau is far more accessible, which is why it has become one of Norway’s most famous landmarks.
In the late evening, we joined our fellow passengers to watch the Norway vs. Brazil soccer match. When Norway defeated Brazil, the entire lounge erupted in cheers, and everyone celebrated the exciting victory together.
2026年7月5日
今天，我们停靠在霍宁斯沃格（Honningsvåg）。这里是前往北角（North Cape）的门户，因此许多乘客都选择参加前往北角的岸上活动。由于我们在2023年已经到访过北角，也看过著名的地球仪雕塑，这次我参加由船上人员带领的Storfjellet徒步，与几位同行乘客一起徒步北极荒原。而佩民则自己下船去镇上走走。
徒步从码头开始，先穿过镇中心。根据挪威法律，要获得“城市”的资格，当地必须建造一个环岛。霍宁斯沃格的环岛小得惊人，许多汽车几乎可以直接从上面开过去。
真正的登山从大约1,000级石阶开始。这些石阶被称为Sherpa Stairs（夏尔巴石阶），通往山顶附近的一座Hytta（挪威山间木屋）。近年来，来自尼泊尔的夏尔巴工匠在挪威许多热门登山步道修建石阶，以减少水土流失，同时保留步道的自然风貌。石阶的工艺十分精湛，虽然经过精心修筑，却依然保有天然山径的感觉，而不像人工楼梯。
山顶的现代化Hytta向徒步者敞开大门。屋内设有燃木火炉和木制长椅，我们围坐在里面，一边喝着热饮，一边欣赏窗外壮阔的景色。
下山时，我们改走另一条坡度较缓的路线，沿途依靠一个个石堆路标（cairns）辨认方向。在晴朗的天气下，霍宁斯沃格港口及周围海岸线的景色格外迷人。探险队员一路介绍了多种北极植物，包括罗盘花（Compass Rose）和高山拳参（Alpine Bistort）。我还品尝了高山拳参的小珠芽（bulbils），味道淡淡的，略带坚果香。全程约5公里，累计爬升约300米（1,000英尺），又是一趟令人难忘的北极徒步。
回到船上时，天空开始下起雨来，但我的游玩兴致丝毫没有减退。我又冒着细雨回到镇上，悠闲地漫步了一圈。
离开霍宁斯沃格后，邮轮驶过壮观的北角悬崖（North Cape Cliff）。在远远距离，我们可以看到欧洲大陆真正最北端，Knivskjellodden。虽然北角并非欧洲大陆最北点，但由于它拥有宽阔平坦、交通便利的海岬，因此成为挪威最著名、游客最多的地标之一。
晚上，我们和船上的游客们一起观看了挪威对巴西的比赛。当挪威队战胜巴西时，整个大厅欢声雷动，大家共同为这场精彩的胜利欢呼。
Mountain Hike in Tromsø 山间徒步
July 4, 2026
Today's weather was overcast with occasional drizzle……
今天的天气阴沉，不时飘着毛毛细雨。。。
July 4, 2026
Today's weather was overcast with occasional drizzle. Since we had already visited Tromsø three years ago, and I had thoroughly enjoyed the Midnight Sun hike on that trip, I decided to sign up for the mountain hike again. Peimin chose to stay on the ship.
Our hike was led by one of the expedition team members, accompanied by seven fellow passengers. After a 30-minute taxi ride to the trailhead, the nine of us set off on a 5-kilometer hike that took about an hour and a half. Despite the damp weather, the scenery was peaceful and beautiful.
At the summit, our guide treated us to hot drinks and cookies while introducing us to some of the local Arctic plants, including cotton grass and cloudberries. I even had the chance to taste a fresh cloudberry for the first time. Parts of the trail were muddy and slippery, and although we got slightly wet from the drizzle, the hike was thoroughly enjoyable.
That evening, we dined at Rost, the ship's fine dining restaurant. The five-course tasting menu was inspired by ingredients sourced from the ship's previous port of call, with the menu announced one day in advance. The courses included raw shrimp with roasted prawn mayonnaise and seaweed royale; butter-fried scallops with cauliflower and XO consommé; hake with parsley root, fermented gooseberries, and Rossini caviar; fried Brie with fermented apple and honey gel; and a dessert featuring cinnamon bun, vanilla cream, cinnamon bun ice cream, and cardamom crumble.
Every seafood course highlighted the remarkable freshness of the local shrimp, scallops, and fish. The only drawback was the additional charge for dining at Rost, but the exceptional quality of the food and the overall experience made it well worth the extra cost.
Last night, we attended a lecture on Fridtjof Nansen's North Pole expedition. Although Nansen never reached the North Pole, he set a new "farthest north" record at the time. His expedition ship, Fram, is now preserved and on display at the Fram Museum in Oslo.
What resonated with me most from the lecture was a lesson inspired by Nansen’s expeditions: “There is no shame in turning around.” It is a core principle of Norwegian outdoor culture, reminding hikers that making the safe decision is never a failure.
Another point he shared was that Norwegians often refer to an expedition simply as a "little tour." Rather than focusing solely on reaching the destination or boasting about the achievement, they place greater value on the journey itself and on enjoying nature along the way. I found that perspective both refreshing and inspiring.
After we boarded the ship in Bergen, we noticed an empty fish tank at the Árran restaurant, along with a sign advertising live king crab for an additional charge. The restaurant manager told us that the tank would be stocked with king crabs when we reached Tromsø.
Today, just as promised, the tank was full of live king crabs, each tagged with its own QR code. We spotted a particularly large one and scanned its code, which showed that it weighed 3.1 kg, along with information about where it had been caught. We couldn’t wait to indulge in this Arctic delicacy.
2026年7月4日
今天的天气阴沉，不时飘着毛毛细雨。由于我们三年前已经来过特罗姆瑟（Tromso)，那次的北极游我们是从特罗姆瑟上的船，而我一直对那次午夜太阳徒步念念不忘，所以这次我又报名参加了船上组织的山间徒步活动，佩民则留在船上休息。
这次徒步由船上的一位岸游团队的工作人员带领，8位乘客参加。出租车载着我们经过约30分钟的车程来到登山口，随后一起开始徒步。全程约5公里，耗时约一个半小时。虽然天气不佳，但沿途景色依然宁静优美，令人心旷神怡。
到达山顶后，领队为大家准备了热饮和饼干，还向我们介绍了几种当地的高山植物，包括棉草（Cotton Grass）和云莓（Cloudberry）。我还第一次品尝了新鲜的云莓，味道十分特别。由于连续下着毛毛雨，部分路段泥泞湿滑，我们的衣服也被淋得有些湿，不过丝毫没有影响这次徒步的乐趣。
晚上，我们来到船上的高级餐厅 Rost 享用晚餐，庆祝美国的国庆节（July 4th)。前几天预订时并不知道今晚的菜单。这家餐厅提供五道品鉴式菜单，所有菜肴都以邮轮的上一站停靠港口所采购的新鲜食材为基础，因此菜单当天早上才公布。
当晚的菜单包括：生虾配烤虾蛋黄酱和海藻皇家冻、黄油煎扇贝配花椰菜和XO清汤、无须鳕配欧防风根、发酵醋栗和Rossini鱼子酱、香煎布里奶酪配发酵苹果和蜂蜜凝胶，以及肉桂卷、香草奶油、肉桂卷冰淇淋和豆蔻酥粒组成的甜点。
每一道海鲜都做的非常精致，充分展现了当地食材的新鲜与鲜甜，尤其是生虾、扇贝和无须鳕，令人印象深刻。唯一的小缺点是这家餐厅需要额外付费，不过无论是食材品质、烹饪水准还是整体用餐体验，都让我觉得物有所值。
昨晚，我们参加了一场关于挪威探险家弗里乔夫·南森（Fridtjof Nansen）北极探险的讲座。虽然南森最终没有到达北极点，但他创造了当时人类到达最北纬度的新纪录。他当年乘坐的探险船“弗拉姆号”（Fram）如今保存在奥斯陆（Oslo)的弗拉姆博物馆（Fram Museum），成为挪威极地探险历史的重要象征。
这场讲座中，最让我印象深刻的是一个南森探险精神的理念：“掉头返回并不可耻。” 这是挪威户外文化的重要原则之一，提醒每一位登山者和探险者：在大自然面前，选择安全、适时折返，绝不是失败，而是一种智慧。
讲者还分享了一个很有意思的文化观念：挪威人常常把一次探险称作一次“小旅行”（little tour）。他们并不把重点放在是否到达终点，或完成了多么了不起的壮举，而是更珍惜探索的过程，享受置身大自然的体验。我觉得这种生活态度既令人耳目一新，也给了我许多启发。
Kayaking in Reine 皮划艇
July 3, 2026
Today, our ship docked in Reine, one of the most iconic fishing villages in the Lofoten archipelago……
今天，我们的邮轮停靠在雷讷,。。。
July 3, 2026
Today, our ship docked in Reine, one of the most iconic fishing villages in the Lofoten archipelago. We took a short walk around the village, enjoying its beautiful surroundings. Near the dock, we came across traditional fish-drying racks, but only fish heads were hanging from them. We also admired a beautifully situated soccer pitch, surrounded by towering mountains and the sea—certainly one of the most scenic soccer fields we had ever seen.
Steve and I joined a kayaking excursion, as Reine is widely regarded as one of the best places in Norway to experience sea kayaking. It took nearly an hour to get everyone fitted with the proper gear and into our kayaks. The tour operator provided windproof jackets, waterproof spray skirts, and life jackets, all of which proved to be essential. Compared with my previous kayaking trips in other parts of the world, I had never been given this much protection. The chilly Arctic air and cold seawater made me appreciate every layer.
Once we were on the water, our guide led us through the calm, sheltered fjords surrounding Reine. We paddled at a relaxed pace past towering granite mountains and traditional fishing cabins. Along the way, we sampled edible seaweed straight from the water, listened to the occasional calls of seabirds, and, most importantly, paddled hard to keep up with the group. The two hours on the water rewarded us with breathtaking scenery and a peaceful atmosphere that felt both intimate and timeless.
Last night, our ship crossed the Arctic Circle, and today we held a special ceremony to celebrate the occasion. Prizes were awarded to the passengers who had correctly guessed the time we would cross the Arctic Circle. Then, following tradition, buckets of ice were poured over the heads and down the backs of some brave volunteers. We really admired their courage—after all, the rest of us were bundled up in thick down jackets just to keep warm!
Shortly after we left Reine, the sky turned cloudy, bringing the kind of weather we had expected for summer in northern Norway. We felt especially fortunate to have enjoyed calm waters and sunshine during our kayaking adventure, making the experience even more memorable.
Our three-course dinner included crispy fried cod tongues, smoked duck breast, artichoke hearts with oyster mushrooms, and Arctic char from Sigerfjord, followed by dessert. Everything was beautifully prepared and delicious.
2026年7月3日
今天，我们的邮轮停靠在雷讷（Reine），这里是罗弗敦群岛最具代表性的渔村之一，也被誉为挪威最适合体验海上皮划艇的地方之一。
我们二位男士报名参加了皮划艇之旅。女士们则下船自由活动，同时为我们拍照留念。光是穿戴装备、分配船只就花了将近一个小时。旅行社为我们准备了防风外套、防水裙（spray skirt）和救生衣，后来证明这些装备都是必不可少的。相比我过去在世界其它地方划皮划艇的经历，从来没有享受过如此完善的保护措施。北极海域冰凉的海水和清冷的海风，让我更加体会到这些装备的重要性。
下水后，向导带领我们划入雷讷周围平静而避风的峡湾。我们沿着巍峨的花岗岩山峰和传统渔夫小屋（rorbuer）缓缓前行。途中，向导摘下生长在海里的海藻让大家品尝，大家一边听着海鸟不时传来的鸣叫声，一边欣赏四周壮丽的景色。当然，更重要的是，我们还得不停地奋力划桨，跟上整个队伍的速度。
虽然在水上只有短短两个小时，却让我们收获了最美的风景。四周宁静得仿佛时间都慢了下来，人与大自然融为一体，那种平和、亲近的感觉，令人久久难忘。
昨晚上我们的船穿越北极圈，今天举行庆祝活动。给猜对过北极圈时间的乘客发奖，同时按惯例往那些勇敢的自愿者头上，脖子里泼冰块。很佩服那些自愿者，要知道我们是裹着厚厚的羽绒服的。
离开雷讷后，天空渐渐被云层覆盖，也终于呈现出我们原本预期的挪威北部夏季天气。回想起来，我们能够在阳光和风平浪静的天气里完成这次皮划艇之旅，实在是十分幸运，也让这段经历更加难忘。
Crossing the Arctic Circle 北极圈
July 2, 2026
Today’s weather was perfect for cruising and sightseeing……
今天的天气非常适合邮轮航行和观光。。。
July 2, 2026
Today’s weather was perfect for cruising and sightseeing. After breakfast, we all went to the Sun Deck to see Torghatten as the ship sailed past. This distinctive granite mountain on the island of Torget, near Brønnøysund, is famous for the enormous natural tunnel running through its center. The tunnel is about 160 meters long, 20 meters wide, and 35 meters high. Seeing the opening clearly from the ship was amazing.
We then attended another Coastal Kitchen cooking demonstration. The chef prepared fresh Norwegian blue mussels, explaining the ingredients and cooking techniques while sharing a few tips about Norway’s seafood traditions. At the end of the demonstration, we were invited to sample the mussels. They were fresh, tender, and absolutely delicious.
Shortly afterward, as the ship cruised past the Seven Sisters mountain range, the expedition team entertained us with one of Norway’s best-known folk tales. According to legend, the Seven Sisters were seven beautiful troll maidens who were pursued through the night. As the chase continued, the sun suddenly rose, turning the sisters, their pursuers, and Torghatten into stone. Today, the Seven Sisters, Torghatten, and several nearby peaks are said to be the frozen figures from this ancient tale.
Before reaching Træna, we sailed past the site of the Rigel disaster, the deadliest maritime disaster in Norway during World War II. In November 1944, the German-controlled prisoner ship MS Rigel was attacked by British aircraft and sank nearby, killing about 2,570 people, most of them Soviet and Yugoslav prisoners of war. Today, the peaceful waters give little hint of the tragedy that occurred here more than 80 years ago.
Later, our ship stopped at Træna, one of Norway’s oldest island communities, for a four-hour visit. Træna is a tiny and peaceful island community surrounded by spectacular coastal scenery. We spent about two hours hiking along its scenic trails, enjoying breathtaking views of the rugged coastline and nearby Sanna Island. The most striking landmark on Sanna is Trænstaven, a dramatic 338-meter, pyramid-shaped mountain rising almost directly from the sea. Along the way, we passed the island’s charming church and water tower and wandered through the quiet little village.
We enjoyed a three-course dinner at Flora. Between the two of us, we ordered Arctic char tartare, pumpkin soup sprinkled with local seaweed, Norwegian dry-aged “old steak” (Gammelsteik), and creamy pesto pasta. The dishes were delicious and made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Showcasing Norwegian cuisine through fresh, locally sourced ingredients was one of the highlights of our Hurtigruten cruise.
As the day came to a close, one more memorable moment awaited us. At 10:35 p.m., our ship officially crossed the Arctic Circle, marking the beginning of our journey into the Arctic. Despite the late hour, the sun was still shining above the horizon under the Midnight Sun. Many passengers gathered on deck to celebrate the occasion, enjoying the crisp Arctic air and taking photos.
Crossing the Arctic Circle was more than simply passing an invisible line on the map—it was a symbolic milestone and one of the highlights of our voyage.
Today was a perfect blend of spectacular scenery, fascinating history, Norwegian folklore, delicious local cuisine, and the unforgettable experience of entering the Arctic.
2026年7月2日
今天的天气非常适合邮轮航行和观光。早餐后，我们一起来到阳光甲板，等待邮轮驶过著名的 Torghatten（托尔哈滕山）。这座位于 Brønnøysund 附近 Torget 岛上的花岗岩山峰，以山体中央巨大的天然洞穴而闻名。这个天然隧洞长约160米、宽约20米、高约35米。从船上清楚地看到这个巨大的山洞，令人惊叹不已。
随后，我们参加了又一次 “挪威海岸厨房”（Coastal Kitchen） 烹饪示范。厨师介绍新鲜的挪威蓝贻贝，一边介绍所用的食材和烹饪方法，一边分享挪威海鲜饮食传统的一些小知识。示范结束后，我们也有机会品尝刚刚出锅的贻贝。贻贝非常新鲜，肉质鲜嫩，味道十分鲜美。
不久之后，当邮轮缓缓驶过七姐妹峰（Seven Sisters）时, 船上的工作人员为我们讲述了一个挪威著名的民间传说——“七姐妹峰”（Seven Sisters） 的故事。相传，七姐妹原本是七位美丽的巨人少女，在夜色中遭到追逐。追逐持续了一整夜，当太阳突然升起时，七姐妹、追赶她们的人以及 Torghatten 都被阳光变成了石头。如今，七姐妹峰、Torghatten 以及附近的几座山峰，都被传说成这些远古故事人物化成的山峰。
在抵达 Træna（特莱纳） 之前，我们驶过了 “里格尔号灾难”（Rigel disaster） 的发生地。这是第二次世界大战期间挪威死亡人数最多的海域。1944年11月，由德国控制、用于运送战俘的 MS Rigel 号遭到英国飞机袭击，并在附近沉没，约有2,570人遇难，其中大多数是苏联和南斯拉夫战俘。80多年后的今天，这片海域宁静而祥和，几乎看不出当年曾发生过如此惨烈的悲剧。
之后，我们的邮轮停靠 Træna，在这里停留四个小时。Træna 是挪威最古老的岛屿社区之一，也是一个宁静而小巧的海岛聚落。我们花了大约两个小时沿着岛上的步道徒步，一路欣赏崎岖壮丽的海岸线以及附近 Sanna 岛的美景。Sanna 岛最醒目的地标是 Trænstaven 山，这座高338米、形似金字塔的山峰几乎直接从海面拔地而起，十分壮观。徒步途中，我们经过了岛上漂亮的小教堂和水塔，也漫步穿过了宁静的小村庄。
一天即将结束时，还有一个令人难忘的时刻等待着我们。晚上 10:35，邮轮正式跨越了北极圈，也标志着我们的旅程正式进入北极地区。虽然已是深夜，午夜太阳依然高悬在地平线上。在一个极小的岛上立着一个北极圈标志，许多乘客聚集在甲板上，共同庆祝这一特别的时刻。大家吹着清凉的北极海风，纷纷拍照留念。
跨越北极圈不仅仅是越过地图上一条看不见的纬线，对我们而言，它更是这次航程中一个具有象征意义的里程碑，也是整个旅途中最值得纪念的时刻之一。
这一天，有壮丽的自然风光，有引人入胜的历史，有古老的挪威传说，有美味的当地海鲜，更有跨越北极圈的难忘体验。美景、历史、美食与午夜阳光交织在一起，为我们进入北极的这一天留下了完美的记忆。
Golden Train 黄金列车
July 1, 2026
Our first stop was Åndalsnes, a picturesque town nestled at the end of the Romsdalsfjord……
今天邮轮停靠在这次行程的第一站——安达尔斯内斯，。。。
July 1, 2026
Our first stop was Åndalsnes, a picturesque town nestled at the end of the Romsdalsfjord. A couple of weeks earlier, we had purchased tickets for the Golden Train, a scenic excursion that travels along the famous Rauma Railway between Åndalsnes and Bjorli.
The journey took us through some of Norway's most spectacular mountain scenery. Along the route, we passed Troll Wall (Trollveggen), Europe's tallest vertical rock face, admired the emerald-green Rauma River, and viewed the beautiful Verma Waterfall. We also crossed the famous Kylling Bridge, often described as Norway's most photographed railway bridge. Ironically, the best view of the bridge came only after the train had crossed it, when we could see it from a distance. Even so, the surrounding scenery was magnificent, making the journey well worth taking.
During the ride, we also learned why this excursion is called the Golden Train. In April 1940, shortly after Germany invaded Norway, nearly 50 tons of Norway's gold reserves were secretly transported by train through the Romsdal Valley to Åndalsnes. From there, the gold was loaded onto ships and eventually made its way to the United Kingdom and later to North America, preventing it from falling into German hands. The successful operation helped preserve Norway's financial independence throughout World War II. At Bjorli Station, the Golden Train Museum tells the fascinating story of how Norway’s gold reserves were secretly transported to safety during World War II.
It was also the first time we learned about Norway's famous troll legends. According to folklore, trolls were giant creatures that lived deep in the mountains and could only venture out under the cover of darkness. If caught by the rising sun, they would turn to stone. Many Norwegians like to imagine that the towering cliffs of Troll Wall and the surrounding jagged peaks are ancient trolls frozen forever in the daylight. Standing among these dramatic mountains, it was easy to see how such fascinating stories came to life.
After the train ride, we boarded the Romsdal Gondola and ascended to the summit of Mount Nesaksla, where breathtaking panoramic views of the Romsdalsfjord, the town of Åndalsnes, and the surrounding alpine peaks awaited us. We took a short hike around the summit before hurrying back down to make it to the ship on time. It was a wonderful first day of excursions, combining spectacular scenery, intriguing history, and a touch of Norwegian folklore.
But the day was far from over. We attended Norway’s Coastal Kitchen on Deck 9, hosted by the ship’s executive chef. Today, he introduced us to fenalår, a traditional Norwegian cured meat made from a salted and dried leg of lamb. We sampled thin slices of the lamb accompanied by LINIE Aquavit, a Norwegian spirit. The lamb was delicious, but the aquavit was a little too strong for us.
Later, we enjoyed a delicious three-course dinner before attending the Captain’s Welcome, where we were introduced to the ship’s officers and senior staff.
That evening, the ship passed through the notorious Hustadvika, a shallow and exposed stretch of sea dotted with numerous shoals and reefs and known for its rough waters. Fortunately, the sea was unusually calm and beautiful that evening. As we sailed through the area, we passed the striking red Hestskjær Lighthouse, glowing beautifully in the late-evening sun.
2026年7月1日
今天邮轮停靠在这次行程的第一站——安达尔斯内斯（Åndalsnes），这座风景秀丽的小镇坐落在罗姆斯达尔峡湾（Romsdalsfjord）尽头。几周前，我们便提前预订了著名的黄金列车（Golden Train）。这趟观光列车沿着挪威最美铁路之一——劳马铁路（Rauma Railway），往返于安达尔斯内斯和比约利（Bjorli）之间。
列车一路穿行在秀丽的山谷之中，沿途尽是令人惊叹的自然风光。我们经过了欧洲最高的垂直岩壁——巨魔墙（Trollveggen），欣赏了碧绿色的劳马河（Rauma River），还看到了秀美的维尔马瀑布（Verma Waterfall）。列车也驶过了著名的基林桥（Kylling Bridge），这座桥被誉为挪威拍照最多的铁路桥。当列车真正行驶在桥上时，反而看不到桥的全貌；直到列车驶离后，我们才从远处欣赏到它优雅的身影。即便如此，沿途的景色依然令人赞叹不已，这趟旅程绝对值得。
在车上，我们还了解到这趟列车为何被称为“黄金列车”。1940年4月，德国入侵挪威后不久，为了防止国家黄金储备落入德军手中，挪威政府秘密将近50吨黄金通过这条铁路运送到安达尔斯内斯，再转运至英国，最后送往北美安全保存。这次惊险而成功的“黄金大转移”，不仅保住了挪威的国家财富，也为流亡政府在二战期间继续运作提供了重要保障。
在火车上我们第一次听到挪威关于巨魔（Troll）的传说。相传巨魔是生活在深山里的巨大生物，只能在夜晚活动，一旦被阳光照射，就会立刻变成石头。许多挪威人相信，巨魔墙以及周围那些嶙峋险峻的山峰，正是远古巨魔被晨曦定格后留下的身影。置身于这片雄伟壮阔的山谷之间，确实很容易理解这些充满想象力的民间传说是如何诞生的。
结束火车之旅后，我们又搭乘罗姆斯达尔缆车（Romsdal Gondola）登上内萨克斯拉山（Mount Nesaksla）山顶。登高望远，罗姆斯达尔峡湾、安达尔斯内斯小镇以及四周连绵起伏的群山尽收眼底，景色壮丽无比。我们在山顶简短的徒步几分钟，随后便匆匆返回码头，赶回邮轮。
这是我们此次航程的第一次岸上观光，不仅欣赏了挪威壮观的自然风光，还了解了一段精彩的二战历史和充满神秘色彩的北欧神话，这一天堪称完美。
Hurtigruten 海达路德邮轮
June 30, 2026
Today, we boarded Hurtigruten’s Midnatsol to begin our Arctic adventure……
今天，我们登上了海达路德的 Midnatsol 号，。。。
June 30, 2026
Today, we boarded Hurtigruten’s Midnatsol to begin our Arctic adventure.
The boarding process was quite different from any other cruise line we have experienced. Instead of waiting in a crowded terminal, we were welcomed into a comfortable lounge, where pastries and drinks were served while we waited for the security screening and safety briefing. We then watched a brief five-minute safety video in a conference room ashore before finally boarding the ship.
After embarking, we headed to the buffet restaurant on Deck 5 for lunch. The food was good, with a generous selection of fish, cured and dried meats, fresh vegetables, and other local specialties. Hurtigruten clearly isn’t trying to impress passengers with international cuisine or extravagant buffets. Instead, it focuses on showcasing authentic Norwegian food and culture, an approach that we actually prefer.
Hurtigruten’s Midnatsol departed at 2:30 p.m., and we headed to the sun deck to celebrate the beginning of our new journey.
Dinner was also served buffet-style. Afterwards, we joined many of our fellow passengers in the lecture hall to watch the Norway vs. Ivory Coast football match on the big screen. Naturally, we cheered enthusiastically for Norway, and it was a fun way to end our first day on board.
After the game, we headed to the top deck to enjoy the beautiful scenery as we sailed along before retiring to our cabin for the night.
2026年6月30日
今天，我们登上了海达路德（Hurtigruten）的 Midnatsol 号，正式开启期待已久的北极之旅。
海达路德的登船流程与我们以往搭乘过的邮轮都不太一样。首先，工作人员安排大家在岸上的休息室等候，并贴心地提供了咖啡、饮料和点心。之后又观看了一段仅五分钟的安全视频，然后才正式登船。
登船后，我们先来到五层餐厅享用自助午餐。餐点虽然不算特别丰盛，却提供了大量挪威特色食材，包括各种鱼类、风干肉、腌制肉品以及新鲜蔬菜等。海达路德显然并不是靠世界各地的美食来吸引游客，而是希望让旅客体验最道地的挪威饮食文化。我很喜欢这样的安排，因为旅行本来就是体验当地文化，而不仅仅是享受豪华邮轮上的各种设施。
今天因为是登船的日子，晚餐同样安排了自助餐。餐后我们来到讲座厅，与其他乘客一起在大屏幕上观看挪威对阵科特迪瓦的足球比赛。在挪威坐挪威的船为挪威队加油助威是理所当然的。
Bergen 卑尔根
June 29, 2026
This morning, we woke up early and walked to Nordnes Park.…..
今天大清早，我们俩步行前往诺德内斯公园，。。。
June 29, 2026
This morning, we woke up early and walked to Nordnes Park. The area was peaceful and beautiful in the soft morning light. Afterwards, we enjoyed a simple breakfast of chocolate croissants and lattes.
After a short break, we visited Bryggen, the UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its colorful wooden buildings lining the old harbor. We wandered through its narrow alleys, browsed a few shops。
We then headed to the Music Pavilion to join a “free” walking tour. Our guide was entertaining and chose to focus less on historical events and more on everyday life in Norway, which made the tour especially relatable. One fascinating feature he highlighted was Bergen’s modern waste management system. Many of the street trash bins are connected to an underground vacuum waste collection network, allowing garbage to be transported beneath the city rather than collected by traditional garbage trucks. The tour was both enjoyable and informative, leaving us with a deeper appreciation of Bergen—not only as the gateway to Norway’s magnificent fjords, but also as a city that embraces innovative and sustainable urban living.
After the walking tour, we headed to a fish soup restaurant recommended by our guide and tried the local specialty. It was indeed delicious. Then, we took the funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen, one of Bergen’s seven mountains, where we were rewarded with panoramic views of the city, the harbor, and the surrounding mountains. After a relaxing coffee break, we walked back down to the city through the forest. Along the way, we found a shop selling brown cheese ice cream. It sounded unusual, but it was surprisingly delicious, with a rich, caramel-like flavor.
To end the day, we treated ourselves to an unforgettable seafood feast featuring live king crab, whale carpaccio, and razor clams—all of which we were tasting for the very first time. Every dish was incredibly fresh and delicious, making it a memorable culinary experience. It did, however, cost a small fortune, with the live king crab alone priced at 3,500 NOK per kilogram. Fortunately for us, our friend generously picked up the tab, making this extravagant seafood feast even more memorable!
2026年6月29日
今天大清早，我们俩步行前往诺德内斯公园（Nordnes Park），清晨的卑尔根四周宁静，柔和美丽。与昨天我们刚到时的嘈杂完全不同。随后，我们去了一家咖啡馆，享用了巧克力可颂和拿铁咖啡作为早餐。
稍作休息后，我们与朋友一起来到老城区布吕根（Bryggen）。这里是联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产，以港口旁一排排色彩鲜艳的木结构建筑而闻名。我们漫步在狭窄的小巷中，逛了几家特色小店，随后来到音乐亭（Music Pavilion），参加了一场城市步行导览。我们的导游非常风趣幽默。他没有过多讲述历史事件，而是把重点放在挪威人的日常生活上，让这次游览显得格外亲切有趣。他还向我们介绍了街道上一套现代化的垃圾收集系统。许多路边垃圾桶都连接着地下真空垃圾收集网络，垃圾可以通过地下管道被运走，而不需要传统垃圾车频繁进城收集。
这次导览既轻松愉快，又让我们增长了见识，也让我们对卑尔根有了更深的了解。它不仅是通往挪威壮丽峡湾的大门，也是一座注重创新与可持续城市生活的城市。
步行导览结束后，我们来到导游推荐的鱼汤专卖店，品尝了当地的特色鱼汤，的确非常美味。之后，我们搭乘缆车登上了弗洛伊恩山（Mount Fløyen），这是卑尔根七座群山之一。站在山顶，整座城市、港湾以及四周群山尽收眼底，景色令人心旷神怡。喝过一杯咖啡后，我们沿着林间步道一路步行下山，返回市区。
途中，我们去了一家售卖挪威棕色奶酪冰淇淋（Brown Cheese Ice Cream）的小店。原本觉得这种搭配有些新奇，没想到入口后却出乎意料地美味，带着浓郁的焦糖香气，令人回味无穷。
为了给这一天画上圆满的句号，我们享用了一顿丰盛的海鲜大餐，包括鲜活帝王蟹、鲸鱼生薄片（whale carpaccio）和蛏子（razor clams）。每一道菜都十分新鲜可口，为这次卑尔根之行留下了难忘的味觉记忆。
Arrive at Bergen 达到卑尔根
June 29, 2026
We left Lysebotn on a public ferry, a route we had booked in advance……
今天，我们搭乘事先预订好的公共汽车渡轮离开吕瑟博顿。。。
June 28, 2026
We left Lysebotn on a public ferry, a route we had booked in advance. This affordable ferry was a bit outdated and lacked a comfortable lounge, but we had no complaints since it traveled through the same spectacular Lysefjord as the tourist ferry.
After disembarking, we continued our drive toward Bergen. Along the way, we crossed two more public ferries before arriving in Bergen, Norway’s second-largest city.
We checked into our penthouse apartment in the heart of the city, directly across from the Fish Market. After settling in, we went in search of a Chinese restaurant and enjoyed a delicious dinner. As usual, I couldn’t resist ordering crispy duck, one of my favorite dishes whenever I travel in Europe.
2026年6月28日
今天，我们搭乘事先预订好的公共汽车渡轮离开吕瑟博顿（Lysebotn）。这条渡轮虽然船只略显陈旧，连休息室都没有，但我们丝毫没有抱怨，因为它同样穿行于壮丽的吕瑟峡湾（Lysefjord），沿途欣赏到的风景与昨天我们俩乘坐的观光渡轮并无差异。尤其是今天渡轮航线的价格实惠，票价几乎只有昨天的百分之十左右。下船后，我们继续驱车前往卑尔根。途中又搭乘了两趟汽车渡轮，最终抵达了挪威第二大城市——卑尔根。虽说前后花了七个多小时在路上，但中间的三趟汽车渡轮让我们可以休息一下，远胜过连续开车。
我们入住了位于市中心的一间顶层公寓，正对着著名的鱼市场。安顿好之后，我们便出去寻找中餐馆，享用了一顿美味的中餐。一如既往，在欧洲旅行时，我总是忍不住点上一道我最喜欢的脆皮鸭。
Flørli 4444 弗洛尔利4444
June 27, 2026
Today, our friends and we went our separate ways……
今天，我们和朋友分头行动。。。
June 27, 2026
Today, our friends and we went our separate ways. They headed off to hike Kjerag, while we took the ferry into Lysefjord to visit Flørli.
Flørli is home to the world's longest wooden staircase, with 4,444 steps. Built more than a century ago, the staircase was originally constructed to provide access for maintaining the hydroelectric pipeline that climbs the steep mountainside. Today, Flørli can only be reached by ferry or on foot, making it one of Norway's more remote hiking destinations.
Unfortunately, one of the two ferry routes does not operate on Saturdays. That left only the tourist ferry, which runs just twice a day and costs nearly ten times as much as the regular ferry. Even more limiting, it gave us only about three and a half hours in Flørli. We were concerned that attempting the full 4,444-step climb might cause us to miss the return ferry. Missing it would have meant an unexpected overnight stay in Flørli.
The ferry ride from Lysebotn to Flørli took exactly 45 minutes. Along the way, we enjoyed excellent views of Kjerag towering high above the fjord. Looking up from the water, we could even spot tiny figures standing on the famous Kjeragbolten and managed to capture a photo of them from far below.
To avoid taking that risk, we decided to climb only the first 800 steps, where the only marked exit trail branches off from the staircase. Descending the wooden staircase itself is considered dangerous and is not permitted.
After leaving the staircase, we followed a pleasant trail along the mountainside. At times, we descended wooden steps and narrow paths covered with dried grass, all while enjoying spectacular views of the fjord below. Although the hike was relatively short, it was peaceful and rewarding.
Along the trail, we met a young woman from Scottsdale, Arizona—a small world indeed. Interestingly, whenever we meet someone from Arizona during our travels, they almost always seem to be from Scottsdale.
Before returning to the ferry dock, we stopped at the Mini Suite, a tiny cabin perched on a rock overlooking the fjord, then took a leisurely walk along the shoreline.
We still had about two hours before our ferry departed, so we bought a Coke and an ice cream, found a bench by the water, and simply relaxed while soaking in the beautiful scenery. Sometimes, slowing down and doing nothing is just as enjoyable as hiking.
That evening, we had dinner at the campground café overlooking Lyseboln where you can challenge yourself outdoors and then unwind in the peaceful beauty of one of Norway's most spectacular fjord landscapes.
2026年6月27日
今天，我们和朋友分头行动。他们去攀登凯拉格（Kjerag），看奇迹石，而我们则乘船深入吕瑟峡湾（Lysefjord），前往弗洛尔利（Flørli）。
弗洛尔利拥有世界上最长的木制阶梯，共4444级，又窄又陡。这座阶梯建于一百多年前，最初是为了方便维护沿着陡峭山坡铺设的水力发电输水管道而修建的。弗洛尔利只能乘船或徒步到达，因此也成为挪威较为偏远、独特的徒步目的地之一。
可惜的是，两条渡轮航线中有一条周六停航，只剩下旅游渡轮每天往返两班，票价是普通渡轮的十几倍。更麻烦的是，这样的班次只给我们留下约三个半小时的停留时间。如果挑战完整的4444级阶梯，很可能赶不上返程渡轮；一旦错过，就只能在弗洛尔利住上一晚。
从吕瑟博顿（Lysebotn）到弗洛尔利的船程正好45分钟。途中，我们欣赏到了高耸在峡湾之上的凯拉格山。抬头望去，还能隐约看到有人站在著名的“奇迹石”（Kjeragbolten）上，我们甚至从峡湾底部拍到了一张他们的照片。
为了避免错过渡轮，我们决定只攀登前800级台阶，因为那里正好是唯一一条离开木阶梯的步道入口可以抄近路下山。由于沿着木阶梯下行既危险又不允许，因此必须从这里转入山间步道返回。
虽然只走了800级台阶，与4444相差甚远，却也是大汗淋漓。离开木阶梯后，我们沿着山腰小径缓缓下行。一路上时而走下木栈阶梯，时而穿过铺满枯草的狭窄小径，下山的路并不好走，好在峡湾壮丽的景色始终伴随左右。
途中，我们向一位徒步的年轻女士问路，闲聊时得知她尽然也来自我们州，美国亚利桑那州斯科茨代尔（Scottsdale），世界真小。每次旅行中遇到来自亚利桑那州的人，有趣的是几乎都是来自斯科茨代尔。
返回码头前，我们沿着海边悠闲地散步。还特意去看了建在岩石上的迷你小屋（Mini Suite），一间小的不能再小的木屋可供租住，很有创意。
离渡轮开船还有近两个小时，我们便买了饮料，土豆片和冰淇淋，坐在海边长椅上，边吃边静静欣赏眼前的峡湾美景。有时候，放慢脚步，什么都不做，也是一种难得的旅行享受。
傍晚，我们回到吕瑟博顿，在露营地餐厅享用晚餐。餐厅面朝峡湾，景色优美。我们一边品尝美食，一边欣赏峡湾风光。吕瑟博顿对喜欢挑战体能，要去攀登凯拉格，看奇迹石或者爬世界最长木制阶梯的人来说是最佳的留宿地。同时也适合放慢节奏，在挪威壮丽的峡湾美景中享受片刻宁静。
Hike to Preikestolen 徒步布道石
June 26, 2026
After a hearty breakfast, we set out for the hike to Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock)……
享用过丰盛的早餐后，我们出发前往挪威最著名的徒步路线之一——布道石（Preikestolen）。。。
June 26, 2026
After a hearty breakfast, we set out for the hike to Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock). The trail was exceptionally well designed and maintained, with countless stone steps and rocky sections. The first half of the hike was the most challenging, climbing about 1,000 feet over 1.5 miles on a moderately steep slope. We kept our own comfortable pace, averaging about 600 feet of elevation gain per hour, including plenty of photo stops.
When we finally reached Preikestolen, it was a little crowded, and we had to wait in line for our turn to step onto the photo spot on the famous rock. The panoramic view over Lysefjord was absolutely breathtaking and well worth the effort. We spent quite a while taking photos and simply enjoying the spectacular scenery.
As we began our descent, the weather quickly deteriorated and light rain started to fall. The wet rocks became quite slippery, so we took our time and carefully made our way back to the trailhead.
This morning, we requested a late checkout today until 3:00 p.m., which gave us some flexibility after our hike. After returning to the hotel, we enjoyed a hot shower and a satisfying lunch before driving to our overnight accommodation in Lysebotn.
Our colorful cabin was in a perfect location, just a few minutes’ walk from the fjord and nestled beneath towering cliffs on both sides of the valley. After settling in, we had dinner at the resort. Although the setting was beautiful, the meal itself didn’t quite live up to our expectations.
2026年6月26日
享用过丰盛的早餐后，我们出发前往挪威最著名的徒步路线之一——布道石（Preikestolen）。步道设计得非常出色，也维护得相当完善，全程铺设了大量石阶和岩石步道。前半段是最具挑战性的部分，在约1.5英里的距离内爬升了约1,000英尺，坡度中等偏陡。我们始终按照自己的节奏前进，连同拍照休息时间在内，平均每小时上升约600英尺。
经过两个多小时的攀登，我们终于抵达布道石。由于这里是挪威最热门的景点之一，平台上已有不少游客，想走到悬崖边最经典的拍照位置，还需要排队等候。站在巨大的岩石平台上，俯瞰脚下壮丽的吕瑟峡湾（Lysefjord），景色令人震撼，所有的辛苦都变得值得。我们在这里停留了许久，拍了许多照片，也静静欣赏着眼前壮阔的峡湾风光。
准备下山时，天气突然转阴，细雨渐渐飘落。被雨水打湿的岩石变得十分湿滑，我们一路放慢脚步，小心翼翼地下山，最终顺利返回登山起点。
今天早上我们向酒店申请了下午3点延迟退房，因此完成徒步后不用赶时间，可以从容地整理行李、洗澡和吃午餐。从步道石下来回到酒店后，我们先舒服地洗了个热水澡，又享用了一顿满意的午餐，随后退房，驱车前往当天的住宿地——吕瑟博滕（Lysebotn）。
我们入住的是一间色彩鲜艳的小木屋，地理位置十分理想，步行几分钟便可抵达峡湾边，两侧则耸立着高耸的峭壁，仿佛置身于峡谷深处。安顿好之后，我们在度假村餐厅享用了晚餐。虽然周围环境十分优美，但餐点的品质和口味与昨天住的旅馆相比要逊色一些。
To Bergen and Beyond 前往卑尔根
June 25, 2026
Before leaving Finse, I took a short hike up the hill ……
June 25, 2026
Before leaving Finse, I took a short hike up the hill directly across from the hotel. It was quite windy, with occasional light drizzle. As I looked at the scattered cabins on the hillside, I couldn’t help but wonder how they had been built in such a remote place and who might live there. Unfortunately, as more clouds rolled in, any hope of getting a better view of the surrounding glaciers quickly disappeared. Even so, it was a peaceful and enjoyable way to end our stay.
At 10:49 a.m., we boarded the train to Bergen. This railway is considered one of the most scenic routes in Europe, and it certainly lived up to its reputation. The landscapes of snow-covered mountains, lakes, and waterfalls were breathtaking, although the views were interrupted frequently as the train passed through numerous tunnels. After a little more than two hours, we arrived at Bergen Central Station, where we enjoyed a sushi lunch before continuing our journey.
From Bergen, we picked up an electric rental car to begin the road trip before our cruise. Our destination for the day was Preikestolen BaseCamp. Driving south along Highway E39 was an experience in itself, requiring two ferry crossings. If you’re unlucky and arrive just after a ferry departs—as we did—you may have to wait for the next one. Fortunately, the ferries operated efficiently, and the crossings provided a pleasant break from driving. By late afternoon, we arrived safely at Preikestolen BaseCamp, ready for tomorrow’s hike to the famous Pulpit Rock.
2026年6月25日
离开 Finse 前，我先到酒店对面的小山上徒步一英里。山顶风很大，还不时飘着细雨。随着云层不断聚集，原本期待能再看到冰川的希望也渐渐落空。不过，这段宁静的清晨散步也让我再次欣赏了这里独特的野景。
上午10点49分，我们搭乘火车前往卑尔根（Bergen）。这条铁路被誉为欧洲最美的观景铁路之一，沿途雪山、湖泊、瀑布和高原风光令人赞叹不已。唯一美中不足的是，火车频繁穿越隧道，壮丽的景色时常被打断。经过两个多小时的车程，我们抵达卑尔根中央火车站。
在车站内简单吃了一顿寿司午餐后，我们取了租好的电动车，正式开始邮轮前的自驾旅程。今天的目的地是 布道石大本营(Preikestolen BaseCamp)。沿着 E39 公路一路向南行驶，需要搭乘两次汽车渡轮。如果运气不好，像我们一样刚好错过一班渡轮，就只能耐心等待下一班。不过，渡轮班次频繁，等待的时间并不算太长，而且在海上短暂航行，也让长途驾驶增添了几分乐趣。
晚上我们顺利抵达 布道石大本营。这里环境幽静，被森林环绕，也是第二天攀登挪威著名景点——布道石（Preikestolen）的最佳起点。我们早早安顿下来，期待着明天的徒步之旅。
Hike to Blåisen (Blue Glacier)徒步前往布劳冰川
June 24, 2026
After a satisfying breakfast, we set out on a hike toward Blåisen (the Blue Glacier).…..
享用了一顿丰盛的早餐后，。。。
June 24, 2026
After a satisfying breakfast, we set out on a hike toward Blåisen (the Blue Glacier). The morning began under a blanket of fog, but the sky gradually opened up later in the day. Unfortunately, the weather remained mostly cloudy, with occasional drizzle and a steady wind.
As we crossed the bridge and dam near Finse, hundreds of mosquitoes landed on our clothes. Fortunately, they seemed completely uninterested in people and soon flew away, leaving us in peace.
For most of the hike, it was just the four of us enjoying the serenity of the vast wilderness. Although we had the AllTrails map for navigation, the large red “T” trail markers provided welcome reassurance and helped ease any concerns about wandering off route in the wide-open landscape.
The trail itself was uniquely beautiful. Countless ponds reflected the surrounding snow-covered mountains, while patches of lingering snow dotted the terrain. The scenery felt both rugged and tranquil, making every step enjoyable.
Our progress came to an abrupt halt when we reached a roaring stream fed by melting snow. A seasonal bridge normally spans the crossing, but we were about a week too early—it had not yet been installed for the summer season. We searched both upstream and downstream for a safe place to cross, but the water was too wide, swift, and powerful. Reluctantly, we accepted defeat and turned around.
Although we never reached the glacier, the hike itself was rewarding. We covered about 5.6 miles with roughly 900 feet of elevation gain. The trail offered an excellent balance of physical activity and spectacular scenery.
After returning to the hotel, we enjoyed a simple lunch followed by an hour-long nap. Later in the afternoon, we took a leisurely walk along the Rallarvegen cycling route that circles part of the lake. The path looked beautiful, and we wished we had more time to explore it by bike.
Dinner was served at the hotel, another delicious three-course meal and a pleasant way to end the day.
2026年6月24日
享用了一顿丰盛的早餐后，我们出发前往布劳冰川（Blåisen，意为“蓝冰川”）徒步。清晨时分浓雾笼罩着大地，但不久后天空逐渐放晴了一些。遗憾的是，大部分时间天气仍以多云为主，夹杂着零星小雨和阵阵冷风。
当我们经过水坝/桥梁附近时，数以百计的蚊子向我们扑来，落在我们的衣服上。幸运的是，这些蚊子似乎对人并不感兴趣，没过多久便纷纷飞走了，没有给我们带来太多困扰。
在通往冰川的大部分路程中，整个荒野里似乎只有我们四个人。虽然我们随身携带了 AllTrails 的导航地图，但沿途醒目的红色“T”字路标让人倍感安心，也减轻了在这片辽阔旷野中迷路的担忧。
这条步道有着独特而迷人的风景。散布在野地上无数大大小小的水塘和尚未融化的积雪，与远处白雪覆盖的群山共同构成了一幅壮丽的水墨画。这里既有高原荒野的苍茫，也有湖泊雪原的宁静，我们不停地止步留影，享受这个独特的徒步过程。
然而，当我们来到一条由融雪汇集而成的急流前时，行程被迫停止。原本夏季会架设一座桥供徒步者通行前往冰川，但我们来得早了一周，桥梁尚未安装。我们沿着河流上下游寻找可能的过河地点，但河面过于开阔，水流也十分湍急，完全无法安全通过。
无奈之下，我们只好带着些许遗憾原路返回。虽然最终未能抵达冰川，但这次徒步依然令人满意。全程约5.6英里（约9公里），累计爬升约900英尺（约275米）。步道兼具适度的运动量和令人惊叹的自然景观，是一次非常愉快的徒步体验。
回到酒店后，我们简单吃了午餐，并小睡了一会儿补个觉，之后我们沿着著名的拉勒尔公路（Rallarvegen）自行车道，在湖边进行了短暂散步，今天比昨天走得稍微再远一点。这条自行车道风景优美，难怪酒店有几百辆自行车供游客租用，旅游旺季时这里是骑车者的天堂。
晚上，我们在酒店享用了三道式晚餐。尽管今天未能走到布劳冰川脚下，但沿途壮丽的风景和宁静的荒野体验，依然让这一天成为芬瑟之行中难忘的一页。
Finse 1222 芬瑟1222
June 23, 2026
After a long-haul flight, we arrived at Oslo International Airport at 6:35 a.m. this morning……
昨天早上4点出门，经过漫长的洲际飞行后，。。。
June 23, 2026
After a long-haul flight, we arrived at Oslo International Airport at 6:35 a.m. this morning. From there, we took the regional train to Oslo Central Station, where we met our friends Steve and CiCi to begin what I jokingly called our “Happiest Countries Tour.”
From Oslo Central Station, we boarded the Vy F4 train to Finse, located at an elevation of 1,222 meters (4,009 feet). Finse is home to the highest railway station in Norway and is surrounded by stunning glaciers, lakes, and snow-patched mountains.
We stayed at Hotel Finse 1222, conveniently located just steps from the train platform. Since there are no other dining options in the area, we had booked both breakfast and dinner when reserving our room. Finse is a paradise for cross-country skiing and other winter sports during the colder months, while hiking and cycling attract visitors in the summer. The dramatic landscape was even used as a filming location for Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back.
After a couple of hours of much-needed naps, we went for a walk around the lake. Although the weather was less than ideal, the scenery was still breathtaking. We are hoping for clearer skies and better weather tomorrow.
Dinner consisted of a fixed three-course menu, and every dish was delicious. It was a wonderful way to end our first day in this remote and beautiful corner of Norway.
2026年6月23日
昨天早上4点出门，经过漫长的洲际飞行后，我们于今天早上6点半抵达挪威的奥斯陆（Oslo)国际机场。随后乘坐区域列车前往奥斯陆中央火车站，在那里与凤凰城的朋友Steve和CiCi会合，正式开启我戏称为“幸福国家之旅”的行程。
从奥斯陆中央火车站出发，我们搭乘Vy F4列车前往芬瑟（Finse）。芬瑟海拔1222米，是挪威海拔最高的火车站。这里被壮丽的冰川、湖泊以及点缀着残雪的群山环绕，风景十分迷人。
坐了四个小时的火车，沿途风景秀丽。我们入住的Finse 1222酒店就位于火车站月台旁，下了火车二步路就踏进酒店，非常方便。由于当地没有其它任何餐饮选择，因此我们在预订房间时便同时预订了酒店的早餐和晚餐。芬瑟在冬季是滑雪爱好者的天堂，而到了夏季，则成为徒步和骑车者向往的目的地。附近的冰川景观还曾被用于拍摄电影《星球大战：帝国反击战》中的冰雪星球霍斯（Hoth）场景。
在房间里先补了二个小时的觉，之后我们沿着湖边散步。旅游高峰还没开始，这里非常安静。虽然天气并不理想，但眼前的景色依然令人赞叹不已。希望明天能够迎来更好的天气，让我们有机会欣赏到更加壮丽的风光。
晚餐是固定的三道式套餐，每一道菜都十分美味。在这样宁静而壮美的环境中享用晚餐，我们芬瑟的第一天堪称完美。
Fly Home返程回家
May 6, 2026
This morning, we walked downhill into the city center to look for a place to have breakfast……
今天早上我们又再一次走到市中心寻找早餐店。。。
May 6, 2026
This morning, we walked downhill into the city center to look for a place to have breakfast. We found a small café and enjoyed a simple but pleasant breakfast — cappuccino and croissants. Afterward, we climbed the steep stairways back up to the hotel.
Later, we took a two-hour train ride to Zurich Airport and grabbed a small sandwich from the station for lunch. The hotel shuttle came to pick us up from the airport.
After five weeks of traveling in Europe, we realized we had grown somewhat tired of Western cuisine. For dinner, we initially thought instant noodles might be enough. We walked to a nearby supermarket, only to discover that a small cup of instant noodles cost nearly 4€. Spending 8€ on two small cups that would probably still leave us hungry suddenly felt unreasonable.
I had also been craving Chinese food for quite a while. Surprisingly, we had not eaten any Chinese food during this entire trip. So instead, we walked to a nearby Chinese restaurant. I ordered a duck dish for 23€ along with 3€ fried rice. The duck turned out to be excellent. Somehow, duck dishes in Europe always seem to be good, and it is also the only Chinese dish I tend to order while traveling in Europe.
The owner’s son chatted with us for a while and mentioned that since COVID, there had been far fewer Chinese tourists stopping by the restaurant.
May 7, 2026
Today we boarded a United Airlines flight home via Chicago.
During this five-week trip, we visited seven countries using many different forms of transportation — planes, trains, buses, boats, and most of all, our own feet. We visited numerous mosques, cathedrals, and Orthodox churches, drank countless cups of coffee, and tasted many different Balkan and Mediterranean dishes.
Most importantly, however, we felt tremendous joy traveling together with family and friends. That was what truly made this journey memorable.
2026年5月6日
今天早上我们又再一次走到市中心寻找早餐店。开门的店不多，最后找到一家小咖啡馆，简单吃了份早餐——卡布奇诺配牛角包，虽然简单，却很满足。吃完后，我们又沿着陡峭的台阶一路走回酒店
在火车站买了二个小三明治准备在火车上当午餐，然后我们便搭乘火车前往苏黎世机场。二小时后我们来到苏黎世，酒店的接驳车将我们接到了机场附近的酒店。我们没有进城去苏黎世市中心，四年前来玩过。今天就在酒店休息。
在欧洲旅行了五周之后，我们似乎已经有些吃腻了西餐。晚饭时，我们原本想着吃完泡面可能就够了，于是特地走到附近超市去买。结果发现一小杯方便面居然要将近4瑞士法郎。花8瑞士法郎（10美元）买两小杯还吃不饱的泡面，实在有些不值得。
其实我已经想念中餐好一阵子了，而这一路上我们竟然一次中餐都没吃过。于是我们干脆走到附近一家中餐馆。我们点了一份23瑞士法郎的广式鸭肉饭，再加3法郎换成炒饭。另外还要了一份炒面。那道鸭肉非常好吃。不知道为什么，在欧洲中餐馆里的鸭肉菜都不错，而鸭子似乎也成了我在欧洲中餐馆里唯一会点的菜。
餐馆没其他客人，就我们俩。老板的儿子和我们聊了一会儿。他说自从疫情之后，来这里的中国游客少了很多。
2026年5月7日
今天，我们搭乘联合航空经由芝加哥转机返回家中。
在这五周的旅程里，我们一共走访了七个国家，使用了各种不同的交通方式——飞机、火车、巴士、轮船，包车，出租车，以及最多的：步行。我们参观了许多清真寺、大教堂和东正教教堂，喝了无数杯咖啡，也品尝了不少巴尔干与地中海地区的美食。
但最重要的，还是能够和家人朋友一起旅行所带来的快乐。这才是让这趟旅程真正难忘的原因。
Farewell to Albania 再见了，阿尔巴尼亚
May 5, 2026
As the saying goes, all good things must come to an end……
May 5, 2026
As the saying goes, all good things must come to an end. Today we finally began our journey back home.
During our travel planning, the stop in Tirana was repeatedly added to and removed from our itinerary. It is not a major tourist hotspot, nor does it boast famous UNESCO landmarks or social-media-famous attractions. Yet it remained one of those places we had long been curious about, partly because we knew a little about it growing up.
In the end, Albania became one of the most memorable parts of the journey. Experiencing a different culture, history, and level of economic development added another layer of diversity to our travels. Even simple things — like paying less than one euro for a cappuccino instead of the five to seven euros common elsewhere in Europe — made the experience feel refreshingly affordable and genuine.
Tirana itself felt like a low-key and relaxed city. The weather was pleasant, the people were friendly, and life seemed to move at a slower pace. It felt like the kind of place where we could happily spend more time simply immersing ourselves in a different environment — without rushing to check off attractions, but instead just relaxing and enjoying everyday life.
Early in the morning, a taxi arranged through the hotel took us to the airport. The airport was small and did not even have jet bridges, so passengers boarded a bus that carried us across the tarmac to the plane. We flew with Wizz Air from Tirana to Milan. Since Wizz is a budget airline, we had kept our expectations modest, but the flight was smooth and the service was perfectly satisfactory.
After arriving at Milan Malpensa Airport, we took the regional S50 train to Lugano. Our hotel was conveniently located just a few minutes’ walk from the station.
After checking in, we crossed the street to order Pad Thai takeaway for lunch. Later, we walked down into the city center to revisit Lugano. The last time we came here was four years ago, during a spell of intense summer heat that made sightseeing uncomfortable. This time, however, the weather had completely changed — rainy, cold, and quiet.
We simply strolled around the lakeside and city center before settling down for an early dinner. We ordered seafood pasta, seafood risotto, and shrimp tartare. Surprisingly, it turned out to be the best Italian-style meal of the entire trip — achieved not in Italy, but in Switzerland.
2026年5月5日
在规划这次欧洲旅行时，地拉那这一站曾多次被加入行程，又被删掉。它并不是热门旅游城市，也没有著名的世界遗产（UNESCO）景点或社交媒体上的“网红打卡地”。但它始终是我们心里一个有些好奇的地方，部分原因是我们从小对它多少有一些模糊的印象和了解。
最终，阿尔巴尼亚却成了这趟旅程中最令人难忘的一部分之一。不同的文化、历史背景，以及经济发展水平，都为这次旅行增添了更多层次与多样性。
而地拉那本身，则给人一种低调而放松的感觉。天气宜人，人们友善，生活节奏似乎也慢了下来。能够悠闲地坐下来喝一杯不到一欧元的卡布奇诺，而不是像欧洲其他地方那样动辄五到七欧元，让人觉得这里既真实又亲切，也让旅行轻松了许多。
这里不像那些必须赶景点、排队打卡的旅游城市，反而更像一个适合慢慢待上一段时间的地方。即使什么都不做，只是置身于这样一个不同的环境里，随意散步、喝杯咖啡、看看街景，也会让人感到轻松而舒服。
正如人们常说的那样，美好的事情终究会结束。今天要和二位同行了三周的好朋友说再见。她们俩先飞维也那再玩几天，然后回美国。我们俩刚绕道瑞士，然后踏上回家的旅程。
大清早，酒店帮我们打包了二份早餐，帮我们预订好的出租车将我们送往机场。地拉那机场很小，甚至连登机廊桥都没有，乘客需要先搭乘摆渡车穿过停机坪，再登上飞机。我们搭乘Wizz Air从地拉那飞往米兰。由于Wizz是一家廉价航空公司，我们原本并没有太高期待，但整个飞行过程相当平稳，服务也令人满意。
抵达米兰马尔彭萨机场后，我们搭乘区域列车S50前往瑞士卢加诺（Lugano)。四年前曾来过这里，那时正值酷暑，炎热得让人几乎无心游览。因为当时觉得这个小城市非常漂亮，所以这次决定再来看看。旅馆距离火车站只有几分钟步行路程，位置非常方便。
办理入住后，我们穿过马路买了份泰式炒河粉外卖作为午餐。稍微休息一下后我们走去市中心。而这一次，天气却完全不同——阴雨、寒冷，不过也格外安静。
我们只是随意地沿着湖边和市中心散步，然后早早找了一家餐厅吃晚餐。我们点了海鲜意面、海鲜烩饭以及虾肉塔塔。令人意外的是，这竟然成了整个旅途中最好吃的一顿意大利风味料理——而且不是在意大利，而是在瑞士。从阿尔巴尼亚来到瑞士，价格吓一跳，差别太大。
卢加诺这城市地势起伏，很多街道非常陡，台阶特别多。我们去市中心时往下走还好些，晚餐后要往上爬觉得有点累。我们没有再爬陡坡，而是坐缆索小火车上坡，省去了最累的一段。
Delicious seafood意外的美味海鲜
May 4, 2026
We had already visited most of the major attractions……
我们已经参观了地拉那市区大部分主要景点，。。。
May 4, 2026
We had already visited most of the major attractions in the city and planned to spend today going up the mountain by cable car. According to Google Maps, the cable car had been closed for maintenance until the previous day. To make sure it had reopened, we asked the hotel front desk to call and confirm. The receptionist confidently told us it was operating again and even mentioned that another guest’s friend had gone there the day before.
Trusting the information, we called a taxi and headed to the cable car station — only to discover that it was closed again today for repairs. What a disappointment.
Since we were already nearby, we decided instead to visit Bunk’Art 1. Our taxi driver kindly drove us through the tunnel closer to the entrance, saving us a few minutes of uphill walking.
Bunk’Art 1 is a massive underground nuclear bunker museum on the outskirts of Tirana, much larger than Bunk’Art 2. Originally built during the rule of Enver Hoxha, it served as a secret shelter for top political leaders and military officials in the event of nuclear war. The enormous underground complex feels almost like a hidden city beneath the mountain, with endless corridors, rooms, and command areas. Compared with Bunk’Art 2, the museum presents a much broader history of Albania during the communist period, the Cold War era and before.
After leaving the museum, we walked along the sloping road looking for somewhere to eat. Soon we noticed a seafood restaurant displaying trays of fresh fish and shrimp inside. There was no menu, and nobody spoke English. Fortunately, a friend of theirs helped us make an order.
With her assistance, we ordered one kilogram of shrimp, three fish, and fish soup. The sparkling water came from a drink shop across the street, while the wine was brought over for a table next to us from the pizza place next door. It almost felt as if the entire neighborhood worked together to help the restaurant operate. The seafood was incredibly fresh and probably the best seafood meal we had during this entire trip.
When we finished eating, a taxi happened to be waiting outside the restaurant, so we took it back toward the city center. We had planned to visit the House of Leaves, another museum focused on Albania’s secret police history and located inside the former headquarters of the secret service. However, during the ride we checked Google Maps and saw that it was supposedly closed for the day, so we decided to return to the hotel and rest instead.
After taking a short break, I went out alone for a walk and discovered that the museum was actually open after all. I quickly called the rest of our group to let them know.
We eventually visited the House of Leaves together, though by then the experience no longer felt especially exciting or engaging. After several days of visiting museums and learning about communist history, secret police operations, and wartime suffering throughout the Balkans, we were beginning to feel emotionally exhausted.
At that point, we were finally ready to go home.
2026年5月4日
我们已经参观了地拉那市区大部分主要景点，今天原本计划搭乘缆车上山看看风景。根据 Google Maps 的信息，缆车前一天刚结束维修恢复开放。为了确认情况，我们还特地请酒店前台帮忙打电话确认。前台非常肯定地告诉我们缆车今天正常营业，甚至还有位房客说昨天才刚去过。
于是我们放心地叫了出租车前往缆车站，结果到了之后才发现昨天开了一天，今天缆车又关闭维修。真是让人失望。
我们便改去参观 Bunk’Art 1。出租车司机很热心，直接把车穿过隧道，送到票房门口，让我们少走了几分钟上坡路。
Bunk’Art 1 是位于地拉那郊外的另一座巨大地下核掩体博物馆，规模远比昨天在市中心参观的Bunk’Art 2 大。它最初建于恩维尔·霍查（Enver Hoxha）统治时期，作为核战争爆发时供政府高层和军方领导人避难的秘密设施。整个地下空间庞大得像一座隐藏在山体中的地下城市，到处都是长长的走廊、房间和指挥区域。与 Bunk’Art 2 相比，这里展示的内容更加全面，涵盖了阿尔巴尼亚共产主义时期以及冷战时代的军事历史。
离开博物馆后，我们沿着倾斜的山路慢慢往下走，寻找吃饭的地方。没多久便看到一家小小的海鲜店，店铺里摆放着新鲜的鱼和虾，敞开的小厨房里烧着鱼汤。店里没有菜单，也没人会说英语。幸运的是，店员找来一位朋友帮忙翻译。我们点了一公斤虾、三条鱼以及鱼汤。店员在小店门放个桌子，铺上纸就算是我们的餐桌了。鱼和虾是当场在店里的小厨房烤的，气泡水是从马路对面的饮料店拿来的，而葡萄酒则是隔壁披萨店提供的。看起来整个街区彼此之间都在互相帮忙经营生意，感觉非常有趣。这顿海鲜非常新鲜美味，完全是意外的惊喜，很可能是我们这趟旅行中吃到最棒的一餐海鲜之一。
吃完饭后，刚好有一辆出租车停在餐厅门口，于是我们直接搭车返回市区。原本我们还计划去参观“树叶之家”（House of Leaves），那也是一座与阿尔巴尼亚秘密警察历史有关的博物馆，地点就在当年秘密警察总部旧址。不过在路上查看 Google Maps 时，发现它显示当天已经关闭，于是我们决定先回酒店休息。
短暂休息之后，我一个人出去散步，结果发现博物馆其实仍然开放。赶紧通知在酒店休息的三位，大家一起参观了“树叶之家”。不过此时大家对这类展览已经没有太多新鲜感了。连续多天在巴尔干地区参观关于过去的那些黑暗历史、秘密警察以及战争苦难的博物馆后，我们的情绪多少都有些低落，人也很疲惫。
到了这个时候，我们已经开始想回家了。
Tirana, Albania地拉那，阿尔巴尼亚
May 3, 2026
The hotel offered one of the best breakfasts of this entire trip……
在酒店用完早餐后我们先前往马路对面的地拉那金字塔。。。
May 3, 2026
The hotel offered one of the best breakfasts of this entire trip.
After breakfast, we began our day by visiting the Pyramid of Tirana across the street. The structure was originally built as a memorial to former Albanian leader Enver Hoxha after his death. Following the collapse of the communist regime in 1991, the pyramid was abandoned for many years. Today, it has been transformed into a modern public space for enjoyment. As we walked up the pyramid, we noticed many uniquely designed modern buildings nearby. One of them even resembled a giant human face, while others featured bold and unusual contemporary designs. Compared with many of the other cities we visited during this Balkan trip, Tirana felt very different. There were not many historic old buildings left in the city. Instead, the urban landscape seemed divided between plain, functional apartment blocks built during the communist era and eye-catching modern architecture constructed in recent years. The contrast between the two gave Tirana a distinctive and somewhat unexpected character.
We then stopped by St. Paul’s Cathedral, although we did not go inside because Mass was in progress. Outside the church stood a statue of Mother Teresa, one of the most respected figures of Albanian heritage.
From there, we walked through Tirana Castle, where only portions of the old Ottoman-era walls still remain. Today the area is filled with restaurants and cafés built around the preserved stone walls. Since it was still too early for lunch, we bought some roasted walnuts from a street stall instead. They were warm, fragrant, and surprisingly delicious.
Nearby stood the Namazgah Mosque, the city’s large new mosque, which we also visited. Both the exterior and interior were beautifully decorated. Inside, men and women visited like us in separate sections, with the women’s area located upstairs, possibly offering an even better view of the impressive interior.
A short walk later brought us to Bunk’Art 2, one of the most memorable museums we visited in Tirana. The museum focuses on Albania’s communist past and the history of the secret police during the rule of Enver Hoxha. It is built inside a real underground nuclear bunker once used by the Ministry of Internal Affairs. Walking through the narrow corridors and dimly lit rooms while reading the stories and seeing the photographs was deeply unsettling. Some of the images and narratives felt disturbingly familiar. We could only hope that such tragedies would never happen again.
After exiting the bunker, we continued to Skanderbeg Square, the heart of Tirana. Around the square stand the Et’hem Bey Mosque, the Clock Tower, the National Opera, and the National History Museum with its large mosaic façade. We found front-row seats at a café beside the opera house, where we enjoyed lunch while watching people pass through the square and admiring the surrounding buildings.
The enormous square itself was thoughtfully designed with a very gentle curve and slope rather than being completely flat. The paving stones were brought from different regions across Albania, symbolically representing the country as a whole while also creating an elegant visual effect.
Later we visited the Orthodox Autocephalous Church of Albania. Compared with many older Orthodox churches we had seen elsewhere in the Balkans, this cathedral felt newer and more modern, though it still followed traditional Byzantine-inspired Orthodox architecture. During Hoxha’s rule, religion was banned and many religious buildings were destroyed or closed. Only after the 1990s did Albania begin to experience a revival of religious life, leading to the construction and restoration of churches and mosques across the country.
Wanting a break from the busy urban center, we then walked to the Grand Park of Tirana. The atmosphere changed completely as the city gave way to greenery, walking paths, and the peaceful lakeside environment. Near the Chinese square Pavilion, donated by a company from Zhenjiang, we stopped for a coffee break at a nearby café. I even had a cup of coffee served in an edible cup.
In the late afternoon, we strolled through Blloku, once a restricted neighborhood reserved for communist party elites and government officials. Enver Hoxha’s former villa still stands quietly in the area, now surrounded by trendy cafés, restaurants, and modern shops. The transformation of the neighborhood seemed to reflect Albania’s broader transformation over the past few decades.
For dinner, we went to a local restaurant to enjoy a traditional Albanian meal before finally returning to the hotel. We had done a tremendous amount of walking throughout the day, so it felt wonderful to rest on the balcony and watch the sunset over Tirana.
2026年5月3日
在酒店用完早餐后我们先前往马路对面的地拉那金字塔（Pyramid of Tirana）。这座建筑最初是为纪念阿尔巴尼亚前领导人恩维尔·霍查（Enver Hoxha）而建，在他去世后不久落成。1991年后，这座金字塔曾被废弃多年。如今它已经被改造成一处现代公共空间，供市民和游客休闲活动。
当我们沿着金字塔一路走上顶部时，注意到周围有许多设计非常独特的现代建筑。其中有一栋外形甚至像一张巨大的人脸，还有一些建筑则采用了大胆而前卫的现代设计。与我们这次巴尔干之行中许多保留着古老街道和历史建筑的城市相比，地拉那显得很不一样。这里几乎看不到太多传统老建筑，城市景观似乎被分成了两部分：一部分是霍查时期遗留下来的朴素实用型公寓楼，另一部分则是近年兴建、极具视觉冲击力的现代建筑。这种强烈反差让地拉那呈现出一种独特而有些出人意料的城市气质。
随后我们来到圣保罗大教堂（St. Paul’s Cathedral），不过因为当时正在举行弥撒，我们没有进入教堂内部。教堂外矗立着特蕾莎修女（Mother Teresa）的雕像，她是最受尊敬的阿尔巴尼亚裔人物之一。
步行穿过地拉那城堡（Tirana Castle）区域，如今这里只保留了部分奥斯曼时期的城墙遗迹。围绕着这些石墙，如今已经发展成聚集着餐厅和咖啡馆的休闲区域。由于时间还早，我们只是在街边小摊买了一些现烤核桃。核桃还是热的，有点像中国的纸皮大核桃，手捏一下就能打开，香气浓郁，味道不错。
不远处便是纳马兹加清真寺（Namazgah Mosque），昨晚在酒店阳台上看到的就是它。这是地拉那新建的大型清真寺，我们也进去参观了一下。清真寺内外装饰都非常漂亮。 像我们这样的游客，男女参观区域是分开的，女士区域位于楼上，视野可能比楼下还更好一些，可以更完整地欣赏内部空间。
接着我们步行前往 Bunk’Art 2。这里曾是霍查时期内务部使用的一座真实的地下核掩体, 如今是博物馆主要介绍阿尔巴尼亚霍查时期以及秘密警察历史。穿行在狭窄阴暗的地下走廊中，在一间间小房间里阅读那些历史故事以及看着那些旧照片，让人感到非常压抑和不安。有些画面和叙述甚至有一种熟悉的感觉。我们只能希望，这样的悲剧永远不要再次发生。
离开地下掩体后，我们继续前往地拉那的中心——斯坎德培广场（Skanderbeg Square）。广场周围坐落着埃塞姆贝伊清真寺（Et’hem Bey Mosque）、钟楼（Clock Tower）、国家歌剧院（National Opera）以及带有巨大马赛克壁画的国家历史博物馆（National History Museum）。
我们在歌剧院旁边的一家餐厅找到最前排的位置，一边吃午饭，一边欣赏广场上的人来人往和四周建筑景观。这个巨大的广场本身也经过精心设计，地面并非完全平坦，而是带有非常轻微的弧度与坡度。广场铺设的石材来自阿尔巴尼亚不同地区，既象征全国各地，也形成了很漂亮的视觉效果。
后来我们又参观了阿尔巴尼亚东正教自治教会主教座堂（Orthodox Autocephalous Church of Albania）。相比我们此前在巴尔干地区见过的许多古老东正教教堂，这座教堂显得更新、更现代，但依然保留了典型拜占庭风格的东正教建筑元素。
在霍查统治时期，宗教曾被全面禁止，大量宗教建筑被关闭甚至摧毁。直到1990年代之后，阿尔巴尼亚才逐渐迎来宗教复兴，新的清真寺和教堂也开始重新出现。
离开繁忙的市中心后，我们随后步行来到地拉那大公园（Grand Park of Tirana）。这里的氛围与市区截然不同，到处都是绿色树木、步道以及宁静的湖边环境。 这里有镇江企业捐赠的中国四方亭（Chinese Square Pavilion）。我们在湖边一家咖啡馆停下来休息。我还第一次喝到了装在可食用华夫饼杯子里的咖啡。
傍晚时分，我们来到布洛库（Blloku）街区。这里过去曾是霍查高级官员和政府精英的禁区，普通民众不得进入。霍查旧居至今依然安静地隐藏在这一带，而周围却早已变成时尚咖啡馆、餐厅和现代商店的热闹街区。这个区域的变化，某种程度上也像是阿尔巴尼亚过去几十年巨大转变的缩影。
晚餐时，我们来到一家本地餐厅品尝传统阿尔巴尼亚菜。结束一天行程回到酒店时，我们已经走了非常多的路。最后坐在阳台上，一边休息，一边欣赏地拉那的日落，感觉格外惬意。