Flørli 4444 弗洛尔利4444
June 27, 2026
Today, our friends and we went our separate ways. They headed off to hike Kjerag, while we took the ferry into Lysefjord to visit Flørli.
Flørli is home to the world's longest wooden staircase, with 4,444 steps. Built more than a century ago, the staircase was originally constructed to provide access for maintaining the hydroelectric pipeline that climbs the steep mountainside. Today, Flørli can only be reached by ferry or on foot, making it one of Norway's more remote hiking destinations.
Unfortunately, one of the two ferry routes does not operate on Saturdays. That left only the tourist ferry, which runs just twice a day and costs nearly ten times as much as the regular ferry. Even more limiting, it gave us only about three and a half hours in Flørli. We were concerned that attempting the full 4,444-step climb might cause us to miss the return ferry. Missing it would have meant an unexpected overnight stay in Flørli.
The ferry ride from Lysebotn to Flørli took exactly 45 minutes. Along the way, we enjoyed excellent views of Kjerag towering high above the fjord. Looking up from the water, we could even spot tiny figures standing on the famous Kjeragbolten and managed to capture a photo of them from far below.
To avoid taking that risk, we decided to climb only the first 800 steps, where the only marked exit trail branches off from the staircase. Descending the wooden staircase itself is considered dangerous and is not permitted.
After leaving the staircase, we followed a pleasant trail along the mountainside. At times, we descended wooden steps and narrow paths covered with dried grass, all while enjoying spectacular views of the fjord below. Although the hike was relatively short, it was peaceful and rewarding.
Along the trail, we met a young woman from Scottsdale, Arizona—a small world indeed. Interestingly, whenever we meet someone from Arizona during our travels, they almost always seem to be from Scottsdale.
Before returning to the ferry dock, we stopped at the Mini Suite, a tiny cabin perched on a rock overlooking the fjord, then took a leisurely walk along the shoreline.
We still had about two hours before our ferry departed, so we bought a Coke and an ice cream, found a bench by the water, and simply relaxed while soaking in the beautiful scenery. Sometimes, slowing down and doing nothing is just as enjoyable as hiking.
That evening, we had dinner at the campground café overlooking Lyseboln where you can challenge yourself outdoors and then unwind in the peaceful beauty of one of Norway's most spectacular fjord landscapes.
2026年6月27日
今天，我们和朋友分头行动。他们去攀登凯拉格（Kjerag），看奇迹石，而我们则乘船深入吕瑟峡湾（Lysefjord），前往弗洛尔利（Flørli）。
弗洛尔利拥有世界上最长的木制阶梯，共4444级，又窄又陡。这座阶梯建于一百多年前，最初是为了方便维护沿着陡峭山坡铺设的水力发电输水管道而修建的。弗洛尔利只能乘船或徒步到达，因此也成为挪威较为偏远、独特的徒步目的地之一。
可惜的是，两条渡轮航线中有一条周六停航，只剩下旅游渡轮每天往返两班，票价是普通渡轮的十几倍。更麻烦的是，这样的班次只给我们留下约三个半小时的停留时间。如果挑战完整的4444级阶梯，很可能赶不上返程渡轮；一旦错过，就只能在弗洛尔利住上一晚。
从吕瑟博顿（Lysebotn）到弗洛尔利的船程正好45分钟。途中，我们欣赏到了高耸在峡湾之上的凯拉格山。抬头望去，还能隐约看到有人站在著名的“奇迹石”（Kjeragbolten）上，我们甚至从峡湾底部拍到了一张他们的照片。
为了避免错过渡轮，我们决定只攀登前800级台阶，因为那里正好是唯一一条离开木阶梯的步道入口可以抄近路下山。由于沿着木阶梯下行既危险又不允许，因此必须从这里转入山间步道返回。
虽然只走了800级台阶，与4444相差甚远，却也是大汗淋漓。离开木阶梯后，我们沿着山腰小径缓缓下行。一路上时而走下木栈阶梯，时而穿过铺满枯草的狭窄小径，下山的路并不好走，好在峡湾壮丽的景色始终伴随左右。
途中，我们向一位徒步的年轻女士问路，闲聊时得知她尽然也来自我们州，美国亚利桑那州斯科茨代尔（Scottsdale），世界真小。每次旅行中遇到来自亚利桑那州的人，有趣的是几乎都是来自斯科茨代尔。
返回码头前，我们沿着海边悠闲地散步。还特意去看了建在岩石上的迷你小屋（Mini Suite），一间小的不能再小的木屋可供租住，很有创意。
离渡轮开船还有近两个小时，我们便买了饮料，土豆片和冰淇淋，坐在海边长椅上，边吃边静静欣赏眼前的峡湾美景。有时候，放慢脚步，什么都不做，也是一种难得的旅行享受。
傍晚，我们回到吕瑟博顿，在露营地餐厅享用晚餐。餐厅面朝峡湾，景色优美。我们一边品尝美食，一边欣赏峡湾风光。吕瑟博顿对喜欢挑战体能，要去攀登凯拉格，看奇迹石或者爬世界最长木制阶梯的人来说是最佳的留宿地。同时也适合放慢节奏，在挪威壮丽的峡湾美景中享受片刻宁静。