Leaving for Copenhagen 前往哥本哈根
July 29, 2026
Before leaving for Copenhagen, we spent the morning exploring a few more of Helsinki's highlights,……
离开赫尔辛基前，我们利用上午的时间参观了几处还未造访的景点，。。。
July 29, 2026
Before leaving for Copenhagen, we spent the morning exploring a few more of Helsinki's highlights, including Oodi Central Library, the Rock Church, and the Old Church.
Of the three, Oodi Central Library impressed us the most. Its sweeping wooden façade resembles a floating ship, while the bright, open third floor is flooded with natural light from expansive glass walls. The gently sloping floor, flowing white ceiling, and rows of bookshelves create an inviting space that encourages people to relax and read. The second floor is unlike any library we have visited. It is filled with creative spaces and workshops equipped with 3D printers, music studios, sewing machines, laser cutters, and other tools. Oodi is much more than a place to borrow books—it is a community center where people can learn through books, computers, technology, and hands-on activities. We couldn't help wishing that our local library offered some of these features.
Finland’s Parliament House stood just across the highway. We also took a leisurely stroll through the nearby park, enjoying the outdoor art exhibits along the way.
The Rock Church, carved directly into solid bedrock and topped with a circular copper dome, was also fascinating. Its simple yet distinctive design creates a peaceful and unique atmosphere.
In the afternoon, we flew to Copenhagen. After checking into our hotel, we set out in search of traditional Danish food. We eventually chose a restaurant serving crispy pork sandwiches, and they turned out to be excellent.
Next, we decided to do a little scouting for the next few days, getting a general feel for Copenhagen’s city center. Along the way, we were surprised by just how many people were riding bicycles—and by the countless bikes parked along the streets.
Before long, we arrived at Nyhavn, one of Copenhagen’s most iconic postcard scenes. With its colorful buildings lining the canal and restaurants everywhere, it was every bit as picturesque as we had imagined. Of course, it was also packed with tourists.
After spending nearly two weeks in Finland, where most of the places we visited had been remarkably quiet except for our last few days in Helsinki, it felt strange to suddenly find ourselves surrounded by so many people again. We had almost forgotten what a busy tourist destination felt like!
Before nightfall, we wandered leisurely through the streets around our hotel, admiring Copenhagen’s elegant architecture and pleasant cityscape. It was a relaxing introduction to the city and left us looking forward to exploring more of Copenhagen over the next few days.
2026年7月29日
离开赫尔辛基前，我们利用上午的时间参观了几处还未造访的景点，包括 Oodi 中央图书馆、岩石教堂和赫尔辛基老教堂。
三者之中，最令我们印象深刻的是 Oodi 中央图书馆。整栋建筑以木质外墙包覆，外形宛如一艘停泊在城市中的巨轮。三楼宽敞明亮，大片玻璃帷幕将自然光引入室内，缓缓起伏的地板、流线型的白色天花板，以及整齐排列的书架，共同营造出舒适宁静的阅读空间。
二楼则完全颠覆了我们对图书馆的想象。这里设有各种创意工作坊，配备 3D 打印机、音乐录音室、缝纫机、雷射切割机等设备，供市民免费学习和使用。Oodi 不只是借阅书籍的地方，更像是一座开放的学习中心，让人们通过书籍、电脑、先进科技和动手实践不断探索与成长。我们不禁希望，自己家乡的图书馆未来也能拥有这样的功能。
岩石教堂同样令人赞叹。整座教堂直接凿建于天然花岗岩之中，上方覆盖着圆形铜制穹顶。简洁而独特的设计，与岩石浑然一体，营造出宁静祥和的氛围，让人印象深刻。
下午，我们搭机前往丹麦首都哥本哈根。办理完酒店入住手续后，我们便迫不及待地外出寻找传统丹麦美食。最后选了一家供应丹麦脆皮猪肉三明治（Crispy Pork Sandwich）的小餐厅，味道出乎意料地好，也为我们对丹麦美食留下了美好的第一印象。
接下来就是为后面几天的行程先探个路，大概了解一下城中心的情况。路上骑自行车的人以及大量停在路边的自行车让我们有些惊讶。没走多远便来到新港（Nyhavn），这是哥本哈根最经典的明信片景色。彩色房屋、运河、餐厅林立，当然游客也非常多。之前在芬兰的半个月，除了最后在赫尔辛基的那几天，其它都是没人的地方。很久没见到这么多的人，感觉都有些不习惯了。夜幕降临前，我们漫步在酒店周围的街道，欣赏这座城市优雅的建筑与宁静的街景。满怀期待地迎接接下来在哥本哈根的旅程。
Tallinn, Estonia 爱沙尼亚塔林
July 28, 2026
This morning, we walked to the ferry terminal,……
今天，我们搭乘维京渡轮前往爱沙尼亚首都塔林。。。
July 28, 2026
This morning, we walked to the ferry terminal, enjoying the quiet streets of Helsinki along the way. We boarded a Viking Line ferry bound for Tallinn. Interestingly, we had seen this very same ferry two days earlier, sailing through the narrow channel near the King’s Gate at Suomenlinna. The vessel was enormous—more like a mid-sized cruise ship than a typical ferry—and it was packed with passengers.
The sailing out of Helsinki was especially scenic. From the upper deck, we had panoramic views of the city and the surrounding islands as we made our way through the beautiful Helsinki archipelago.
After taking in the views, we went back inside but couldn’t find any available seats. Instead, we decided to have lunch at the buffet, which cost €33 per person. The food was decent, but more importantly, the restaurant gave us a quiet and comfortable place to sit and relax during the 2-hour-and-45-minute crossing.
As we approached Tallinn, we went back out onto the deck to enjoy our first views of the city. Seeing Tallinn come into view from the sea was an exciting introduction to Estonia and the beginning of our visit to another new country.
After arriving in Tallinn, we spent several hours exploring the beautifully preserved Old Town. We strolled leisurely along its narrow cobblestone streets, admired the colorful medieval buildings, and climbed one of the ancient gate towers for a panoramic view. The town was full of charm, and we thoroughly enjoyed wandering through its historic streets.
At 5:00 p.m., we boarded the 6 pm ferry back to Helsinki. Since both Estonia and Finland are members of the Schengen Area, traveling between the two countries was remarkably simple. There were no passport checks or border controls, making the journey feel much like domestic travel. We had dinner on board and returned to Helsinki after another pleasant crossing.
2026年7月28日
今天，我们搭乘维京渡轮（Viking Line Ferries)前往爱沙尼亚首都塔林。这家渡轮公司每天有几艘船，好几个班次往返在赫尔辛基和塔林之间。昨天我们在芬兰堡国王门附近看到，缓缓驶过狭窄航道的那一艘就是这家公司的船，也是我们今晚回赫尔辛基的渡轮。维京渡轮体型庞大，与其说是渡轮，更像一艘中型邮轮。
船上的乘客非常多，几乎找不到空位可以坐下，于是我们决定到自助餐厅享用午餐，每人33欧元。食物算不上特别出色，但至少让我们有了一个安静舒适的地方，一边用餐，一边悠闲地度过两个半多小时的航程。
经过2小时45分钟，我们抵达塔林。同行的朋友以前来过这里，所以今天一下船就带着我们来到闻名已久的老城区。漫步在狭窄蜿蜒的鹅卵石街道上，两旁是一栋栋色彩鲜艳、保存完好的中世纪建筑，仿佛走进了一座露天历史博物馆。我们还登上了一座古老的城门塔楼，俯瞰整座古城的红瓦屋顶和教堂尖塔。塔林老城古朴典雅，充满中世纪的韵味，是我们非常喜欢的一座城市。最后我们在中央广场坐下，咖啡加冰淇淋看人来人往。
傍晚六点，我们搭乘渡轮返回赫尔辛基。由于爱沙尼亚和芬兰都属于申根区，两国之间的往来十分便利，没有例行的护照查验或边境检查，感觉就像在国内城市之间旅行一样轻松。晚上我们在船上享用了晚餐，结束了这趟轻松愉快的塔林一日游。时间虽短，但对我们俩来说又踏足了一个新的国家。
Helsinki 赫尔辛基
July 27, 2026
After breakfast at the hotel,……
在酒店用完早餐后，。。。
July 27, 2026
After breakfast at the hotel, we walked to the ferry terminal to catch the public ferry to Suomenlinna. On the way, we heard the sound of a military band performing near Helsinki Cathedral. Senate Square had been closed off, and a Canadian military band was rehearsing for an upcoming performance. We stopped to watch for a few minutes before continuing to the ferry.
A pleasant 15-minute ride brought us to Suomenlinna, where we followed the recommended Blue Route around the island. The former sea fortress has been beautifully preserved and transformed into one of Finland's most popular attractions. The historic fortifications, scenic walking paths, and well-maintained parks made it an enjoyable place to explore. At the end of the route, we reached the iconic King's Gate. Rather than walking all the way back to the public ferry terminal, we took a private water bus directly back to the city center for a few extra euros.
We met our friends at Market Square and walked together to Senate Square. To our surprise, the grand staircase leading up to Helsinki Cathedral was packed with spectators enjoying the music festival. We watched the performances for a while before visiting the cathedral itself. Although elegant and historically significant, the interior of the cathedral is quite simple and understated compared with many of Europe's great cathedrals.
For lunch, we enjoyed salmon soup, one of Finland's most traditional dishes, at the Old Market Hall. It was good, though not quite as memorable as we had expected.
In the afternoon, we visited St. John’s Church before stopping by our friends’ “home away from home” nearby. We then returned to the hotel for a short rest before heading out again to meet them for dinner.
We took a pleasant walk through the botanical garden and the city on our way to the seafood restaurant. Dinner was excellent, and afterward, we ended the evening with coffee and cakes at Fazer Café, one of Helsinki’s most iconic and historic cafés. It was a relaxing and delicious way to wrap up another wonderful day in Finland’s capital.
2026年7月27日
在酒店用完早餐后，我们步行前往码头，准备搭乘渡轮前往芬兰堡（Suomenlinna）。才离开酒店不远，便听到赫尔辛基大教堂附近传来阵阵嘹亮的军乐声。原来元老院广场已封闭，一支加拿大军乐队正在广场上为即将举行的演出排练。大清早广场附近空荡荡，我们驻足欣赏了一会儿，才继续前往码头。
约15分钟后，渡轮抵达芬兰堡。我们按照推荐的蓝色路线（Blue Route）游览整座岛屿。这里曾是重要的海防要塞，如今已成为芬兰最受欢迎的旅游景点之一。岛上的古老炮台和防御工事保存完好，绿地、公园和步道规划得十分完善，历史遗迹与自然景观相得益彰。沿着步道一路前行，最后来到著名的国王门（King's Gate）。由于不想再步行返回之前的渡轮码头，我们多花了几欧元，搭乘私人水上巴士直接返回市区。
回到市区后，我们与朋友在市场广场会合，一起前往元老院广场。没想到这时候通往赫尔辛基大教堂的宽阔台阶上早已密密麻麻坐满了观众，大家都在欣赏音乐节的演出。我们也停下来观看了一会儿，随后进入大教堂参观。教堂外观庄严宏伟，但内部装饰十分简洁，没有欧洲许多著名教堂那样华丽。
午餐我们来到老市场大厅（Old Market Hall），品尝了芬兰最具代表性的传统美食——三文鱼汤。味道不错，不过并没有特别令人惊艳。
下午，我们参观了圣约翰教堂（St. John's Church），之后前往朋友在附近的异乡之家坐了一会儿。回到酒店稍作休息后傍晚再与朋友相约到一家海鲜餐厅共进晚餐。
一天的行程最后在Fazer Café结束。这是一家赫尔辛基最具代表性的百年咖啡馆之一，我们点的咖啡和蛋糕为这充实而愉快的一天留下了一个温馨的结尾。
Outsider Artist and UNESCO Mill 民间艺术与世界遗产造纸厂
July 26, 2026
Today we traveled to Helsinki, the capital of Finland. Along the way,…..
今天我们前往芬兰首都赫尔辛基。。。
July 26, 2026
Today we traveled to Helsinki, the capital of Finland. Along the way, we made our first stop at the Parikkala Sculpture Park, located just a few kilometers from the Russian border.
The park is the life's work of self-taught artist Veijo Rönkkönen, who spent nearly 50 years creating more than 500 concrete sculptures in his spare time while working full-time at a nearby paper mill. His sculptures depict people practicing yoga, dancers, children, and scenes from everyday life, creating an atmosphere that is both fascinating and slightly surreal. The most famous section of the park is the Yoga Garden, featuring about 250 sculptures, many of them self-portraits in different yoga poses. The gardens, colorful flowers, and small pond were beautiful, but the sculptures themselves felt strange and unsettling. Rönkkönen even used real human teeth in many of the figures, collecting them from friends and members of his local community. It is widely regarded as one of the world's finest examples of outsider art.
A little farther along the road, we pulled over to photograph the green border fence on the Finnish side, about 3 kilometers from the Russian border. Although we couldn't actually see Russia, it was interesting to be so close.
We stopped for a Chinese lunch in Imatra, which turned out to be quite good. By this point in the trip, we found ourselves choosing Chinese or other Asian food whenever the opportunity arose.
In the afternoon, we drove to Verla to join a guided tour of the historic paper mill. The mill operated from 1872 until 1964 and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Remarkably well preserved, it offered an excellent glimpse into Finland's early industrial history and the lives of the people who worked there. The guided tour was both informative and engaging, making the detour well worthwhile.
Looking back, it struck us that both stops celebrated preservation in very different ways. One protected the extraordinary vision of an unknown self-taught artist who devoted his life to creating a unique sculpture garden, while the other preserved an entire industrial complex that played an important role in Finland's development. Together, they reminded us that history is worth preserving, whether it is expressed through a single person's imagination or the collective efforts of generations of workers.
Before reaching Helsinki, we made one final stop in the charming old town of Porvoo to admire its iconic red riverside warehouses. We ended the day with dinner at a Korean restaurant run by a family from Shanghai.
2026年7月26日
今天我们前往芬兰首都赫尔辛基。途中，我们首先来到距离俄罗斯边境仅几公里的帕里卡拉雕塑公园（Parikkala Sculpture Park）。
这座雕塑公园是芬兰民间艺术家维约·伦科宁（Veijo Rönkkönen）毕生的心血。他白天在附近的一家造纸厂全职工作，利用业余时间默默创作了近50年，完成了五百多座混凝土雕塑。作品以练瑜伽的人物、舞者、儿童以及日常生活场景为主题，营造出一种既引人入胜又略带诡异的氛围。公园最著名的是“瑜伽花园”，约250座雕塑呈现出各种不同的瑜伽姿势，其中许多都是他的自画像。尽管园内小池静谧，鲜花盛开，景色优美，但这些雕塑却给人一种怪异而不安的感觉。更令人惊讶的是，他还在许多雕塑中镶嵌了真正的人牙，这些牙齿都是向朋友和当地居民收集而来的。这里被公认为世界上最具代表性的民间艺术（Outsider Art）作品之一。
继续前行不久，我们特地在路边停下，拍摄芬兰一侧距离俄罗斯边境约3公里的绿色边境围栏。虽然看不到俄罗斯境内的景象，但能够如此接近边境，仍然令人觉得十分特别。
中午，我们在伊马特拉（Imatra）享用了中餐，味道出乎意料地不错。到了旅程后半段，只要有机会，我们都会优先选择中餐或其他亚洲料理。
下午，我们来到维尔拉（Verla），参加历史造纸厂的导览。这座造纸厂建于1872年，运营至1964年，如今已被列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产。厂区保存得极为完整，让我们得以一窥芬兰早期工业发展的面貌，以及当年工人的工作与生活环境。导览内容丰富，也让这段绕道之旅变得格外值得。
回想这一天，我们发现这两个景点虽然性质截然不同，却有着共同的意义。一个保存了一位默默无闻的民间艺术家毕生的创作，另一个完整保留了一座见证芬兰工业发展的百年造纸厂。它们让我们体会到，值得被珍藏的不只是宏伟的历史事件，也包括个人的梦想、创造力，以及无数普通人共同创造的历史。
抵达赫尔辛基前，我们最后在古城波尔沃（Porvoo）停留，欣赏了沿河一排排标志性的红色木仓库。没想到想在那里找家饭店吃晚餐居然很不容易，大部分饭店晚上8点关门，并且7点就不接客了。最后在一家由上海人经营的韩式餐厅才吃上了饭。这与我们印象中的欧洲国家区别太大了。在意大利，晚上7，8点晚餐才刚开始。
一整天走走停停看看，终于来到赫尔辛基。
Salpa Line 萨尔帕防线
July 25, 2026
This morning, we visited Kerimäki to see its famous church,……
萨尔帕防线（Salpalinja） 是一条全长超过1,200公里的防御工事，。。。
July 25, 2026
This morning, we visited Kerimäki to see its famous church, known as the largest wooden church in Europe. Unfortunately, the church was closed for renovation, so we weren’t able to see the interior. Instead, we took a leisurely stroll around town and browsed through the local flea market—a small but enjoyable glimpse into everyday life in Kerimäki.
With everything happening in the world today, we became interested in how Finland prepared to defend itself against a possible foreign invasion. The Salpa Line (Salpalinja) was a defensive fortification system stretching more than 1,200 kilometers along Finland's former border with the Soviet Union. Built between 1940 and 1944 after the Winter War, it was designed to deter or repel a possible Soviet invasion. At the time, it was the largest construction project in Finland's history and is widely regarded as one of the most formidable defensive lines built in Europe during World War II. Although the line was never tested in combat, it served as a powerful deterrent and remains a lasting symbol of Finland's determination to defend its independence.
The section of the Salpa Line at Raikuu is exceptionally well preserved. We followed a short forest trail through dense, shoulder-high vegetation to explore three reinforced concrete bunkers, anti-tank stone obstacles, and other defensive structures. Walking among these fortifications offered a fascinating glimpse into Finland's determination to safeguard its independence during one of the most uncertain periods in its history.
For lunch, we stopped at a nearby Italian restaurant close to our rental. The meal was simple but satisfying, and we enjoyed it more than yesterday’s lunch at the clubhouse.
Afterward, we drove to the Sulosaari Outdoor Recreation Area, a popular walking trail on a small island in Savonlinna. The easy loop wound through peaceful woodland and along the shoreline, passing charming birdhouses. It was a short but delightful hike.
We finished the walk with coffee and crêpes at a cozy crêpe café. We ordered one crêpe to share, but it was so delicious that we immediately ordered a second. It turned out to be one of the culinary highlights of the day.
In the evening, we enjoyed another delicious homemade dinner at our rental—a relaxing and satisfying way to end the day.
2026年7月25日
萨尔帕防线（Salpalinja） 是一条全长超过1,200公里的防御工事，沿着芬兰与前苏联的旧边界修建。它始建于1940年至1944年间，也就是冬季战争结束之后，目的是阻止或抵御苏联可能发动的新一轮入侵。当时，这项工程是芬兰历史上规模最大的建设项目，也被普遍认为是第二次世界大战期间欧洲最坚固、最完善的防御工事之一。虽然萨尔帕防线最终从未经历实战考验，但它成功发挥了强大的威慑作用，至今仍是芬兰坚定捍卫国家独立精神的重要象征。
位于 Raikuu 的这一段萨尔帕防线保存得十分完好。我们沿着一条穿越茂密森林的小径前行，两旁高过肩膀的灌木几乎将步道包围。沿途参观了三座钢筋混凝土碉堡、反坦克石障以及其他防御设施。漫步于这些历经八十多年风雨的工事之间，仿佛让人回到了那个战云密布的年代，也深刻感受到芬兰人民为了守护国家独立所付出的巨大努力和坚定决心。
中午稍晚些我们回到民宿，在高尔夫球场里新开的意大利餐厅吃午餐。菜品要比昨天球场俱乐部好太多，每道菜都很美味。
下午，我们来到萨翁林纳（Savonlinna）的 Sulosaari 户外步道。这是一条位于小岛上的热门散步路线，环形步道穿梭于宁静的森林与湖岸之间，沿途还能看到许多造型可爱的鸟屋。虽然路程不长，却轻松惬意，让人充分感受到芬兰夏日森林的静谧与悠闲。
散步结束后，我们在岛上一家温馨的可丽饼店享用了咖啡和可丽饼。原本只点了一份两人分享，没想到味道出奇地好，忍不住又加点了一份，成为当天最令人回味的美食之一。
早上，我们还参观了附近的凯里迈基教堂，它是世界上最大的木制教堂。可惜教堂正在整修，我们无法入内，只能在外面欣赏这座宏伟而古朴的木建筑，也算是留下了一点遗憾。晚上我们又再一次享受了芬兰桑拿。
Rowing 划船
July 24, 2026
The weather was perfect, and the lake was perfectly calm……
我们住的高尔夫球场旁有个很漂亮的湖。。。
July 24, 2026
The weather was perfect, and the lake was perfectly calm. We rented a rowboat for €20 for the day. Since Peimin doesn't enjoy rowing, the three of us set off while she relaxed on shore and watched.
Over the next two hours, we rowed about 4 kilometers, exploring nearly every corner of the lake. White water lilies floated gracefully across the surface, while dense green forests lined the shoreline, creating a picture-perfect scene.
Along the way, I stepped onto two of the lake's three tiny islands, simply to experience what it felt like to stand on such secluded pieces of land. Best of all, we had the entire lake to ourselves.
We had an incredible time. Of all the activities we have enjoyed in Finland, rowing across a tranquil lake has been one of the highlights of the trip. Surrounded by peaceful forests, crystal-clear water, and complete silence, it felt like we had stepped into another world. It was a quintessential Finnish experience.
After returning the boat, we had lunch at the café in the golf clubhouse. In the afternoon, our friends drove to Savonlinna to visit the castle, while we stayed behind at the house to relax. Today, we also decided to take a break from our daily sauna routine.
2026年7月24日
我们住的高尔夫球场旁有个很漂亮的湖。 今天天气晴朗，湖面风平浪静。我们花20 欧元租了一艘划艇。由于佩民不喜欢划船，便留在岸边休息，看着我们三人出发。
接下来的两个小时里，我们划行了约 4 公里，几乎绕遍了整座湖。湖面上盛开着洁白的睡莲，岸边是一片片郁郁葱葱的森林，湖光山色交相辉映，宛如一幅宁静的画卷。途中，我还登上了湖中三座小岛中的两座，体验一下踏足这些湖中小岛的感觉。整座湖仿佛只属于我们，没有其它船只，也没有游客，四周静谧得只剩下船桨划过水面的声音。
划船带给我们无穷的乐趣。在芬兰体验过的众多活动中，湖／海上划船无疑是此次旅程最精彩、最难忘的经历之一。置身于清澈的湖／海水、茂密的森林和宁静的天地之间，让人真正感受到芬兰大自然的纯净与悠闲，这也正是最具芬兰特色的体验。
划船结束后，我们来到高尔夫球俱乐部的餐厅享用午餐。下午，朋友们驱车前往萨翁林纳参观城堡，而我们则留在小屋休息。
Hakinkierros Loop Hike 徒步
July 23, 2026
Yesterday was primarily a travel day……
昨天主要是赶路的一天。。。
July 23, 2026
Yesterday was primarily a travel day. We left Koli and headed toward Finland's Lake District. Along the way, we stopped in Joensuu for a sushi buffet, which was surprisingly decent and satisfying. Afterwards, we wandered through the Market Square and picked up some mushrooms, strawberries, and other fresh local produce.
Although it was raining, the drive along the scenic Punkaharju Ridge was still spectacular. We stopped at Runeberg's Mound, the highest point on the ridge. The modest stone monument honors Finland's national poet, Johan Ludvig Runeberg. Although the monument was finally completed in 2017, the idea for it had first been proposed in 1880—a remarkable 137 years earlier. It was here that Runeberg was inspired to write the famous lines: "Yes, young man, from this shore/you see a fragment of the land/you call your fatherland."
Those words helped shape Finland’s emerging national identity and became an enduring part of the nation’s cultural heritage. Throughout our journey, we repeatedly heard Finland’s national identity expressed through its magnificent forests, countless lakes, and unspoiled landscapes. Unlike many countries, whose identities are often defined by their people, history, or culture, Finland’s identity appears to be inseparable from its natural environment.
Our Airbnb was a comfortable four-bedroom house next to a golf course, complete with yet another electric sauna.
This morning, we first visited the Finnish Forest Museum Lusto, where we learned about Finland's deep connection with its forests and forestry heritage. Afterwards, we hiked the Hakinkierros Loop in the nearby Forest Research Park. Along the trail, we stopped to see Finland's tallest known tree, which stands 47 meters (154 feet) tall. For comparison, the world's tallest tree reaches 116 meters (381 feet), while China's tallest known tree stands 83 meters (273 feet).
The hike covered 5.2 miles with about 866 feet of elevation gain. The trail was well maintained and generally considered easy, winding through peaceful forests and offering a pleasant walk beneath towering pines and spruces.
After the hike, we drove the Punkaharju Ridge Road once more. With the rain gone and the sun shining, the scenery was even more breathtaking. The long, narrow ridge, flanked by calm blue lakes on both sides, made it easy to understand why it has been considered one of Finland's most beautiful landscapes for centuries.
Back at our accommodation, we relaxed with another sauna. This time, I finally gathered the courage to dump a bucket of cold water over myself in the sauna room. It was quite a shock at first, but afterward I felt incredibly refreshed—a new Finnish experience to add to the trip.
2026年7月23日
昨天主要是赶路的一天。我们离开科利（Koli），前往芬兰湖区（Lake District）。途中在约恩苏（Joensuu）吃了寿司自助餐，味道出乎意料，吃得相当满足。饭后，我们在市集广场买了一些蘑菇、草莓和其他新鲜农产品。
虽然一路下着雨，但穿行于风景如画的庞卡哈尤山脊公路（Punkaharju Ridge Road）依然令人赞叹。我们在路边的一家小店喝了咖啡，吃了当地的甜品，然后来在山脊的最高点——鲁内贝里岗（Runeberg's Mound）停留。这座朴素的石碑是为了纪念芬兰民族诗人约翰·路德维希·鲁内贝里（Johan Ludvig Runeberg）而建。虽然纪念碑直到2017年才最终落成，但早在1880年就已提出建造计划，前后历时整整137年。
据说，鲁内贝里正是在这里写下了著名的诗句：“是的，年轻人，从这里望去，你所看到的这一片土地，就是你称之为祖国的地方。”这几句诗不仅塑造了芬兰逐渐形成的民族认同，也成为芬兰文化传承的重要象征。一路走来，我们不断听到人们提及芬兰的民族认同，而对年轻民族来说，最先浮现在他们脑海中的，并非人物、历史或文化，而是广袤的森林、无数的湖泊和纯净的自然景观。与许多国家不同，芬兰的民族认同仿佛深深扎根于这片土地，与大自然浑然一体。
我们入住的 Airbnb 是一栋舒适的四卧室住宅，在高尔夫球场里，窗外景色极佳，当然也少不了一间电桑拿房。
今天上午，我们首先参观了卢斯托森林博物馆（Finnish Forest Museum Lusto），了解芬兰人与森林之间密不可分的关系，以及这个国家悠久的林业历史。随后，我们来到附近森林研究公园（Forest Research Park），完成了哈金基罗斯环线（Hakinkierros Loop）徒步。
沿途，我们特地前往观赏芬兰目前已知最高的树木，高达47米（154英尺）。作为比较，世界最高的树木高达116米（381英尺），而中国目前已知最高的树木则为83米（273英尺）。
这条步道全长5.2英里，累计爬升约866英尺。步道维护得非常完善，整体难度不高，穿行在宁静的森林之间，高大的松树和云杉遮天蔽日，走起来轻松而惬意。
徒步结束后，我们再次驱车游览庞卡哈尤山脊公路。雨过天晴后，这里的景色比昨天更加迷人。狭长的山脊两侧，是平静如镜的湖泊，在阳光映照下显得格外宁静秀美，也难怪这里数百年来一直被誉为芬兰最美的自然景观之一。
回到住处后，我们照例又享受了一次桑拿。这一次，我终于鼓起勇气，在桑拿房里直接把一桶冷水从头浇下。虽然那一瞬间冷得让人打颤，但随后全身却感到无比舒畅，也算是这趟芬兰之旅又一次难忘的新体验。
Kolinuuro Loop 徒步
July 21, 2026
Today's weather was just as pleasant as yesterday's,……
今天的天气和昨天一样舒适宜人，只是湖面起了些小浪。。。
July 21, 2026
Today's weather was just as pleasant as yesterday's, although the lake was a bit rough with small waves. Our original plan was to row the boat out to one of the tiny islands, but because of the choppy water, we changed our plans and enjoyed lunch at a lakeside café near the ski lift instead.
After a short afternoon nap, I returned to Koli National Park to hike the Kolinuuro Loop, a 2.2-mile trail with about 425 feet of elevation gain, marked by red trail markers. Roughly half of the route overlaps with the Mäkrän Kierto Trail, giving me another opportunity to revisit several viewpoints we had missed the previous day.
Even on my second visit, the panoramic view from Koli Ukko was every bit as breathtaking as before. I also searched for the famous pine tree featured in Eero Järnefelt’s 1928 painting Landscape from Koli. The tree had died just last month, but I couldn’t identify its exact location. Even so, it was meaningful to walk through the landscape that inspired one of Finland’s most iconic paintings.
Looking back, I think we should have stayed at the hotel inside the national park. Having more time within the park would have allowed us to explore its trails and viewpoints at a much more leisurely pace.
2026年7月21日
今天的天气和昨天一样舒适宜人，只是湖面起了些小浪。我们原本打算划船前往湖中的一座小岛，但由于风浪较大，只好改变计划，到滑雪缆车旁的餐厅享用午餐。
午睡片刻后，其他人都还在休息，我一个人再次来到科利国家公园（Koli National Park），徒步 Kolinuuro 环线。这条步道全长约2.2英里（3.5公里），累计爬升约425英尺（130米），沿途以红色标记指引。大约有一半路段与昨天走过的 Mäkrän Kierto Trail 重叠，因此也让我有机会补看前一天错过的几个观景点。
即使是第二次登上乌科峰 (UKKO Koli)，眼前壮阔的湖光山色依然令我流连忘返。我还特意寻找芬兰著名画家 埃罗·耶尔内费尔特（Eero Järnefelt） 于1928年创作的《科利风景》（Landscape from Koli）中那棵著名的松树。据说那棵树就在上个月枯死了，而我最终也没能确定它原来的具体位置。尽管如此，能够漫步在这片孕育了芬兰最具代表性风景画之一的山水之间，依然是一件很有意义的事情。
看来住在山上国家公园里的酒店也许会是一个不错的选择，这样就能有更充裕的时间，慢慢探索公园里的各条步道和观景点，尽情享受这里的自然风光。
Mäkrän Kierto Trail 马克兰环线步道
July 20, 2026
Yesterday it rained all day, so we decided to stay indoors……
昨天整整下了一天雨，我们决定待在小屋里休息。。。
July 20, 2026
Yesterday it rained all day, so we decided to stay indoors. The only exception was that I sneaked out for a short walk around the neighborhood to check out the boats resting along the rocky shoreline. Afterwards, we enjoyed another relaxing round of sauna.
We enjoyed another delicious home-cooked dinner at our rental. After dinner, we drove to a café across the bay, where we relaxed and took in the peaceful surroundings. Looking out over the water, we started thinking about paddling our little boat across the bay to the café the next day.
That evening, we stayed up until 1:00 a.m. to watch the FIFA World Cup final. We were disappointed that Argentina never really challenged Spain. It also occurred to us that we seem to have watched every recent World Cup final somewhere outside the United States.
Today the weather couldn't have been better. The cool, sunny conditions were perfect for hiking. We chose the Mäkrän Kierto Trail, one of the most popular day hikes in Koli National Park. After a short ride on the funicular to the park visitor center, we began the trail with a steep climb up a long flight of concrete stairs.
As we hiked, we were rewarded with magnificent views of Lake Pielinen, rolling forested hills, and endless stretches of woodland. The trail is exceptionally well marked and maintained. We were even impressed to find small woodsheds stocked with firewood and saws for hikers to use at designated campfire sites. Best of all, admission to the national park is completely free.
We completed the 5.1-mile hike, gaining about 925 feet of elevation, at a leisurely pace. Afterwards, we celebrated with delicious pizzas at the park café. It was the perfect ending to a perfect hike.
Back at the cottage, the men headed out onto Lake Pielinen in a rowboat. A steady breeze had created some small waves, making the outing more adventurous than expected. We rowed across the bay to a lakeside café for coffee and snacks before making the return trip. It turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences of the day.
And, as has become our daily tradition in Finland, we finished the evening with another wonderfully hot sauna—the perfect way to end another unforgettable day.
2026年7月20日
昨天整整下了一天雨，我们决定待在小屋里休息。我唯一一次外出，是到附近散步，顺便看看度假屋主人停放在岩石海岸边的小船。回来后，我们当然又享受了一轮芬兰桑拿。
晚上，我们观看世界杯决赛，一直熬到凌晨1点。令人有些失望的是，阿根廷队始终没能给西班牙队制造太大的威胁。
今天的天气好得无可挑剔，凉爽晴朗，是徒步的绝佳日子。我们选择了科利国家公园（Koli National Park）最受欢迎的一条徒步路线——Mäkrän Kierto Trail（马克兰环线步道）。搭乘短程缆车抵达游客中心后，首先迎接我们的便是一段长长的陡峭混凝土台阶。
一路上，皮耶利宁湖（Lake Pielinen）的壮阔湖景、连绵起伏的森林山丘，以及一望无际的林海尽收眼底，令人心旷神怡。步道标识清晰、维护得非常完善。沿途还设有供徒步者使用的营火点，旁边小木屋里整齐地堆放着木柴，并备有锯子，方便大家自行取用，令人印象深刻。更难得的是，整个国家公园完全免费开放。
我们慢慢地完成了全程5.1英里（约8.2公里）、累计爬升925英尺（约282米）的徒步。随后来到山上酒店的餐厅，看着窗外的美景，享用香喷喷的披萨，最后再来上一杯拿铁。来到芬兰后，我们发现普通餐厅很少提供拿铁咖啡，通常供应的都是一壶壶现煮的黑咖啡。因此，每当看到菜单上有拿铁，我们总会忍不住点上一杯，算是旅途中一个小小的享受。
回到湖边小屋后，男士们去皮耶利宁湖划船。湖面吹起阵阵微风，泛起层层波浪，也让这趟划船增添了几分挑战。我们划过海湾，到湖对岸的咖啡馆喝上杯咖啡、吃点点心，再划船返回。虽然只是一次简单的往返，却成为当天最难忘的经历之一。
夜幕降临后，我们又享受了一次热气腾腾的芬兰桑拿，为这充实而美好的一天画上了一个温暖而惬意的句号。
Koli 科利
July 18, 2026
After breakfast, we left Jyväskylä and headed toward Koli,……
早餐后，我们离开于韦斯屈莱，。。。
July 18, 2026
After breakfast, we left Jyväskylä and headed toward Koli, a small village on the edge of Koli National Park. Along the way, we stopped in Kuopio, often regarded as the capital of Finland's Lakeland.
Our first stop was the lively Market Square in the city center. The fresh produce on display was incredibly tempting. We picked up blackberries, raspberries, mushrooms, leeks, and a variety of other ingredients for tonight's dinner. We also bought some freshly picked strawberries to enjoy on the drive—they were exceptionally sweet, juicy, and full of flavor.
From there, we drove up Puijo Hill and took the elevator to the top of the observation tower, where we were rewarded with sweeping views of forests, lakes, and countless islands stretching to the horizon. Standing there, it was easy to understand why Finland is celebrated as the "Land of a Thousand Lakes"—even though it actually has nearly 188,000 lakes. We enjoyed lunch at the revolving restaurant atop the tower, savoring locally sourced dishes while the breathtaking landscape slowly rotated around us.
In the afternoon, we arrived at our Airbnb in Koli. The cottage has three bedrooms, an electric sauna, and a private lakeside beach complete with a rowboat. Its layout is similar to that of our previous cottage in the Turku Archipelago, but the interior is more modern and comfortable. Even so, our earlier cottage enjoyed a more spectacular setting.
After settling in, our friends prepared yet another memorable feast. With satisfied appetites, we relaxed through three rounds of sauna before retiring for the night.
2026年7月18日
早餐后，我们离开于韦斯屈莱（Jyväskylä），驱车前往位于科利国家公园（Koli National Park）边缘的小村庄——科利（Koli）。途中，我们在库奥皮奥（Kuopio）稍作停留。这座城市素有芬兰“湖区之都”的美誉，是芬兰湖区最具代表性的城市之一。在路边，我们买了一盒刚采摘的草莓，草莓香甜多汁，味道十分鲜美。
我们的第一站是市中心热闹的集市广场（Market Square）。市场里摆满了新鲜诱人的当地农产品，我们买了黑莓、红树莓、蘑菇、大葱等食材。
随后，我们驱车登上普伊约山（Puijo Hill），乘电梯来到观景塔顶层。放眼望去，茂密的森林、星罗棋布的湖泊和无数大小岛屿尽收眼底，景色壮阔迷人。站在这里，终于真正体会到芬兰为何被誉为“千湖之国”——事实上，这个国家拥有近18.8万个湖泊。我们在塔顶的旋转餐厅享用午餐，一边品尝采用当地食材烹制的美食，一边欣赏窗外不断变换的湖光山色，十分惬意。
下午，我们抵达位于科利的 Airbnb。这栋湖边木屋有三间卧室，配备电桑拿房，离房不远还有一片私人小石滩和一艘划艇。小屋的整体布局与我们之前入住的图尔库群岛度假屋十分相似，但室内装修更加现代、舒适。不过，若论周围的自然景观，还是图尔库群岛那间小屋更胜一筹。
安顿好之后，先去附近的小超市购买食材，回来不久能干的朋友就给大家整出一桌丰盛的晚餐。饱餐之后，我们迫不及待地走进桑拿房。在温暖与放松中结束了充实而愉快的一天。
Jyväskylä, Finland 于韦斯屈莱
July 17, 2026
Yesterday, we stayed at our cottage while our friends drove to Turku for sightseeing……
昨天，我们留在群岛海边的小木屋休息，。。
July 17, 2026
Yesterday, we stayed at our cottage while our friends drove to Turku for sightseeing. We did almost nothing—simply continued to enjoy Finland’s sauna culture, rowed our little boat around the peaceful bay, and soaked in the tranquil surroundings. For lunch, we baked a Norwegian frozen pizza, and to our surprise, it was fantastic—one of the best pizzas we had ever tasted. Considering Norway is often said to have one of the highest rates of pizza consumption per capita in the world, perhaps we shouldn’t have been so surprised! It was a wonderfully relaxing day, filled with simple pleasures and the peaceful rhythm of Finnish cottage life.
Our friends prepared a delicious, comforting home-style dinner. After dinner, the two of us guys headed out in a small boat, paddling from the quiet waters into a much larger stretch of open water. We had a wonderful time out on the sea.
Today, we left the Turku Archipelago and began our drive toward Koli National Park, stopping overnight in Jyväskylä to keep our daily driving time to less than five hours. The journey took us through endless forests, past countless lakes, and over bridges connecting Finland's beautiful lake country. It was easy to understand why Finland is known as the "Land of a Thousand Lakes"—in reality, it has nearly 188,000 of them.
Jyväskylä is located in the heart of Finland's Lakeland region. We stopped in Tampere for lunch and found a Chinese restaurant called Shanghai Restaurant. After several days of mostly Finnish food, it was nice to enjoy familiar flavors again, and the meal exceeded our expectations. Afterwards, we wandered through the nearby market before continuing our drive to Hotel Verso in Jyväskylä.
Hotel Verso is located right in the middle of the city's pedestrian district. Since cars are not allowed on the streets above, we drove through an underground parking garage and parked directly beneath the hotel.
After settling in, we headed out to explore the city. We walked up Harju Hill, hoping to enjoy the panoramic view from the observation tower, only to discover that it had already closed for the day. Instead, we made our way down to the lakeside promenade and harbor, where the atmosphere was lively yet unhurried.
We found a restaurant aboard a boat and ordered a local beer, fish and chips, and a few appetizers while enjoying the beautiful lake view. As we relaxed, several sauna boats drifted slowly across the water, reminding us once again how deeply sauna is woven into Finnish life.
It felt like the Finnish way to travel—to slow down, relax, and savor the experience rather than rushing from one attraction to the next.
2026年7月17日
昨天，我们留在群岛海边的小木屋休息，而朋友俩则驱车前往图尔库（Turku）观光。我们几乎什么都没做，只是划着小船在宁静的海湾里悠闲漫游，在花园里呼吸着清新的空气，看天看海，尽情感受这里平和静谧的氛围。午餐烤了个挪威的冷冻披萨饼，非常好吃。下午朋友们回来后我们又一起继续享受芬兰的桑拿文化，当然还有朋友做的美味晚餐，这是轻松惬意的一天。
今天，我们离开图尔库群岛，驱车前往科利国家公园（Koli National Park）。为了尽量把每天的驾驶时间控制在五小时以内，我们计划在于中途的韦斯屈莱（Jyväskylä）停留一晚。
一路上，汽车穿梭于连绵的森林之间，经过无数湖泊，又一次次驶过跨越湖面的桥梁，充分展现了芬兰湖区（Lakeland）的迷人风光。难怪芬兰有“千湖之国”的美誉，事实上，全国拥有近18.8万个湖泊。
于韦斯屈莱位于芬兰湖区的中心地带。途中，我们在坦佩雷（Tampere）停下来吃午饭，找到了一家名叫“上海饭店”（Shanghai Restaurant）的中餐馆。连续吃了几天芬兰菜后，熟悉的中餐味道格外令人满足，而且出乎意料地不错。饭后，我们又逛了附近的集市，然后继续驱车前往于韦斯屈莱的维索酒店（Hotel Verso）。
Hotel Verso 位于市中心步行街内，地面道路禁止车辆通行，因此我们必须从地下停车场驶入，并将汽车停在酒店地下。
安顿好后，我们便出门游览这座城市。我们先登上哈留山（Harju Hill），希望能到观景塔俯瞰全城，却发现观景塔已经关闭。于是，我们慢慢走向湖边的步道和港口。那里热闹却不喧嚣，处处洋溢着悠闲自在的气息。
我们选了一家停泊在码头上的船餐厅，一边品尝当地啤酒、炸鱼薯条,炸鸡翅膀和几样小吃，一边欣赏美丽的湖景。期间，几艘桑拿船缓缓从湖面驶过，再次让我们感受到桑拿早已深深融入芬兰人的生活方式。
这或许就是世界最幸福国家芬兰人的旅行哲学——放慢脚步，放松心情，用心体验沿途的一切，而不是匆匆忙忙地赶往下一个景点。
A Day of Sauna and Sea 桑拿与海
July 15, 2026
Yesterday, we disembarked in Bergen and flew to Helsinki,……
昨天，我们在卑尔根下船后，。。。
July 15, 2026
Yesterday, we disembarked in Bergen and flew to Helsinki, the capital of Finland. After picking up our rental car, we immediately headed to a Chinese-Thai restaurant to satisfy our craving for Asian food after nearly two weeks without it.
From there, we drove to our Airbnb in the Turku Archipelago. Our summer cottage is nestled beside the Archipelago Sea, part of one of the world's largest archipelagos, with more than 40,000 islands and skerries. The calm water, mild temperature, and fresh sea air gave us a wonderful first impression of the area.
This morning, we enjoyed a simple breakfast of coffee, croissants, and boiled eggs while taking in the surreal view outside our window.
After breakfast, it was time for our first adventure. We pushed a small rowboat into the water and paddled around the quiet bay near the cottage, wearing life jackets—at our wives' insistence. Gliding across the calm water was peaceful and surprisingly enjoyable.
If Norway is a hiker's paradise, Finland is the land of saunas. There are roughly as many saunas as people in Finland—about one sauna for every two residents—so naturally our rental cottage has one as well. This morning, I met our neighbor across the road. He recommended heating the sauna to at least 80°C, enjoying the heat for 15 minutes or longer, then taking a dip in the sea before returning to the sauna—a classic Finnish tradition.
This afternoon, I decided to experience it for myself.
We first heated the wood-fired sauna, a process that took a couple of hours. Once the temperature reached about 80°C, we stepped inside and regularly poured water over the hot stones. Each splash released a burst of steam (löyly), making the sauna feel even hotter—probably close to 90°C. After about fifteen minutes, I walked down to the sea and swam for a minute or two before returning to the sauna for another round.
The contrast between the intense heat and the cool seawater was invigorating. By the end, I felt completely relaxed and refreshed. I can certainly understand why the sauna is such an important part of Finnish life, and I am beginning to appreciate this unique Finnish tradition.
After dinner, we took a leisurely walk around the neighborhood, admiring the beautiful homes and the peaceful surroundings. As the sun began to set, I took the rowboat out once more and paddled across the tranquil bay. It was a peaceful and memorable way to end our first full day in Finland.
2026年7月15日
昨天，我们在卑尔根(Bergen)下船后，搭机飞往芬兰首都赫尔辛基(Helsinki)，拿到租车后，我们第一件事就是直奔一家中国小餐厅。连续两个星期没有吃亚洲菜，终于可以好好满足一下中国胃，那怕只是泰国式的中餐，也已心满意足。
随后，我们驱车来到位于图尔库群岛（Turku Archipelago）的 Airbnb。租住的夏季度假小屋坐落在群岛海（Archipelago Sea）畔，这里拥有四万多个岛屿和礁石，是世界上最大的群岛之一。宁静的海湾、宜人的气温和清新的海风，都给我们留下了极佳的第一印象。
今天早晨，我们一边享用简单的早餐——咖啡、羊角面包和水煮蛋，一边欣赏窗外如画般梦幻的景色。
早餐后，我们开始了今天的第一项活动。我们将一艘小划艇推进海里，穿上救生衣——当然，这是在太太们的坚持下——然后划着船，在小屋附近宁静的海湾水道悠闲漫游。小船缓缓划过平静的水面，四周一片宁静，只听见船桨划水的声音，令人心旷神怡。
群岛海（Archipelago Sea）属于波罗的海（Baltic Sea）的一部分，位于波的尼亚湾（Gulf of Bothnia）和芬兰湾（Gulf of Finland）之间。由于波罗的海与外海相连，同时又有大量河流注入淡水，这里的海水呈微咸（半咸水）状态。岸边绿树成荫，星罗棋布的岛屿和礁石散布在海面上，共同构成了一幅宁静秀美的北欧夏日画卷。
如果说挪威是徒步的天堂，那么芬兰就是桑拿的国度。芬兰平均每两个人就拥有一间桑拿房，因此我们的度假小屋自然也配备了一间。今天早上，我遇到了住在对面的邻居。他建议我们把木柴桑拿加热到至少 80℃，在里面待上十五分钟以上，然后跳进海里游泳，再回到桑拿房继续享受热气。这正是最经典、最地道的芬兰桑拿文化。
下午，我终于亲身体验了一番。我们先花了两个多小时将木柴桑拿烧热。当桑拿屋室内温度升到约 80℃ 后，我们走进桑拿屋，不时将水泼在炽热的桑拿石上。随着热水瞬间化作蒸汽（芬兰语称 löyly），整个人立刻被热浪包围。不久桑拿房温度已接近 90℃，待了约十五分钟后，我走到海边，在清凉的海水中游了一两分钟，然后再回到桑拿房继续享受第二轮高温。
炙热的桑拿与冰凉的海水形成了强烈而奇妙的对比，让人精神为之一振，身体也彻底放松下来。直到这时，我才真正体会到，为什么桑拿会成为芬兰人生活中不可或缺的一部分，也开始真正欣赏这项独特的芬兰传统。
晚饭后，我们悠闲地在社区里散步，欣赏一栋栋精致漂亮的住宅和宁静的海边景色。夕阳西下时，我又独自划着小船，在金色的晚霞映照下的平静海湾中缓缓前行，度过了愉快的一天。