Salpa Line 萨尔帕防线
July 25, 2026
This morning, we visited Kerimäki to see its famous church, known as the largest wooden church in Europe. Unfortunately, the church was closed for renovation, so we weren’t able to see the interior. Instead, we took a leisurely stroll around town and browsed through the local flea market—a small but enjoyable glimpse into everyday life in Kerimäki.
With everything happening in the world today, we became interested in how Finland prepared to defend itself against a possible foreign invasion. The Salpa Line (Salpalinja) was a defensive fortification system stretching more than 1,200 kilometers along Finland's former border with the Soviet Union. Built between 1940 and 1944 after the Winter War, it was designed to deter or repel a possible Soviet invasion. At the time, it was the largest construction project in Finland's history and is widely regarded as one of the most formidable defensive lines built in Europe during World War II. Although the line was never tested in combat, it served as a powerful deterrent and remains a lasting symbol of Finland's determination to defend its independence.
The section of the Salpa Line at Raikuu is exceptionally well preserved. We followed a short forest trail through dense, shoulder-high vegetation to explore three reinforced concrete bunkers, anti-tank stone obstacles, and other defensive structures. Walking among these fortifications offered a fascinating glimpse into Finland's determination to safeguard its independence during one of the most uncertain periods in its history.
For lunch, we stopped at a nearby Italian restaurant close to our rental. The meal was simple but satisfying, and we enjoyed it more than yesterday’s lunch at the clubhouse.
Afterward, we drove to the Sulosaari Outdoor Recreation Area, a popular walking trail on a small island in Savonlinna. The easy loop wound through peaceful woodland and along the shoreline, passing charming birdhouses. It was a short but delightful hike.
We finished the walk with coffee and crêpes at a cozy crêpe café. We ordered one crêpe to share, but it was so delicious that we immediately ordered a second. It turned out to be one of the culinary highlights of the day.
In the evening, we enjoyed another delicious homemade dinner at our rental—a relaxing and satisfying way to end the day.
2026年7月25日
萨尔帕防线（Salpalinja） 是一条全长超过1,200公里的防御工事，沿着芬兰与前苏联的旧边界修建。它始建于1940年至1944年间，也就是冬季战争结束之后，目的是阻止或抵御苏联可能发动的新一轮入侵。当时，这项工程是芬兰历史上规模最大的建设项目，也被普遍认为是第二次世界大战期间欧洲最坚固、最完善的防御工事之一。虽然萨尔帕防线最终从未经历实战考验，但它成功发挥了强大的威慑作用，至今仍是芬兰坚定捍卫国家独立精神的重要象征。
位于 Raikuu 的这一段萨尔帕防线保存得十分完好。我们沿着一条穿越茂密森林的小径前行，两旁高过肩膀的灌木几乎将步道包围。沿途参观了三座钢筋混凝土碉堡、反坦克石障以及其他防御设施。漫步于这些历经八十多年风雨的工事之间，仿佛让人回到了那个战云密布的年代，也深刻感受到芬兰人民为了守护国家独立所付出的巨大努力和坚定决心。
中午稍晚些我们回到民宿，在高尔夫球场里新开的意大利餐厅吃午餐。菜品要比昨天球场俱乐部好太多，每道菜都很美味。
下午，我们来到萨翁林纳（Savonlinna）的 Sulosaari 户外步道。这是一条位于小岛上的热门散步路线，环形步道穿梭于宁静的森林与湖岸之间，沿途还能看到许多造型可爱的鸟屋。虽然路程不长，却轻松惬意，让人充分感受到芬兰夏日森林的静谧与悠闲。
散步结束后，我们在岛上一家温馨的可丽饼店享用了咖啡和可丽饼。原本只点了一份两人分享，没想到味道出奇地好，忍不住又加点了一份，成为当天最令人回味的美食之一。
早上，我们还参观了附近的凯里迈基教堂，它是世界上最大的木制教堂。可惜教堂正在整修，我们无法入内，只能在外面欣赏这座宏伟而古朴的木建筑，也算是留下了一点遗憾。晚上我们又再一次享受了芬兰桑拿。