Hakinkierros Loop Hike 徒步
July 23, 2026
Yesterday was primarily a travel day. We left Koli and headed toward Finland's Lake District. Along the way, we stopped in Joensuu for a sushi buffet, which was surprisingly decent and satisfying. Afterwards, we wandered through the Market Square and picked up some mushrooms, strawberries, and other fresh local produce.
Although it was raining, the drive along the scenic Punkaharju Ridge was still spectacular. We stopped at Runeberg's Mound, the highest point on the ridge. The modest stone monument honors Finland's national poet, Johan Ludvig Runeberg. Although the monument was finally completed in 2017, the idea for it had first been proposed in 1880—a remarkable 137 years earlier. It was here that Runeberg was inspired to write the famous lines: "Yes, young man, from this shore/you see a fragment of the land/you call your fatherland."
Those words helped shape Finland’s emerging national identity and became an enduring part of the nation’s cultural heritage. Throughout our journey, we repeatedly heard Finland’s national identity expressed through its magnificent forests, countless lakes, and unspoiled landscapes. Unlike many countries, whose identities are often defined by their people, history, or culture, Finland’s identity appears to be inseparable from its natural environment.
Our Airbnb was a comfortable four-bedroom house next to a golf course, complete with yet another electric sauna.
This morning, we first visited the Finnish Forest Museum Lusto, where we learned about Finland's deep connection with its forests and forestry heritage. Afterwards, we hiked the Hakinkierros Loop in the nearby Forest Research Park. Along the trail, we stopped to see Finland's tallest known tree, which stands 47 meters (154 feet) tall. For comparison, the world's tallest tree reaches 116 meters (381 feet), while China's tallest known tree stands 83 meters (273 feet).
The hike covered 5.2 miles with about 866 feet of elevation gain. The trail was well maintained and generally considered easy, winding through peaceful forests and offering a pleasant walk beneath towering pines and spruces.
After the hike, we drove the Punkaharju Ridge Road once more. With the rain gone and the sun shining, the scenery was even more breathtaking. The long, narrow ridge, flanked by calm blue lakes on both sides, made it easy to understand why it has been considered one of Finland's most beautiful landscapes for centuries.
Back at our accommodation, we relaxed with another sauna. This time, I finally gathered the courage to dump a bucket of cold water over myself in the sauna room. It was quite a shock at first, but afterward I felt incredibly refreshed—a new Finnish experience to add to the trip.
2026年7月23日
昨天主要是赶路的一天。我们离开科利（Koli），前往芬兰湖区（Lake District）。途中在约恩苏（Joensuu）吃了寿司自助餐，味道出乎意料，吃得相当满足。饭后，我们在市集广场买了一些蘑菇、草莓和其他新鲜农产品。
虽然一路下着雨，但穿行于风景如画的庞卡哈尤山脊公路（Punkaharju Ridge Road）依然令人赞叹。我们在路边的一家小店喝了咖啡，吃了当地的甜品，然后来在山脊的最高点——鲁内贝里岗（Runeberg's Mound）停留。这座朴素的石碑是为了纪念芬兰民族诗人约翰·路德维希·鲁内贝里（Johan Ludvig Runeberg）而建。虽然纪念碑直到2017年才最终落成，但早在1880年就已提出建造计划，前后历时整整137年。
据说，鲁内贝里正是在这里写下了著名的诗句：“是的，年轻人，从这里望去，你所看到的这一片土地，就是你称之为祖国的地方。”这几句诗不仅塑造了芬兰逐渐形成的民族认同，也成为芬兰文化传承的重要象征。一路走来，我们不断听到人们提及芬兰的民族认同，而对年轻民族来说，最先浮现在他们脑海中的，并非人物、历史或文化，而是广袤的森林、无数的湖泊和纯净的自然景观。与许多国家不同，芬兰的民族认同仿佛深深扎根于这片土地，与大自然浑然一体。
我们入住的 Airbnb 是一栋舒适的四卧室住宅，在高尔夫球场里，窗外景色极佳，当然也少不了一间电桑拿房。
今天上午，我们首先参观了卢斯托森林博物馆（Finnish Forest Museum Lusto），了解芬兰人与森林之间密不可分的关系，以及这个国家悠久的林业历史。随后，我们来到附近森林研究公园（Forest Research Park），完成了哈金基罗斯环线（Hakinkierros Loop）徒步。
沿途，我们特地前往观赏芬兰目前已知最高的树木，高达47米（154英尺）。作为比较，世界最高的树木高达116米（381英尺），而中国目前已知最高的树木则为83米（273英尺）。
这条步道全长5.2英里，累计爬升约866英尺。步道维护得非常完善，整体难度不高，穿行在宁静的森林之间，高大的松树和云杉遮天蔽日，走起来轻松而惬意。
徒步结束后，我们再次驱车游览庞卡哈尤山脊公路。雨过天晴后，这里的景色比昨天更加迷人。狭长的山脊两侧，是平静如镜的湖泊，在阳光映照下显得格外宁静秀美，也难怪这里数百年来一直被誉为芬兰最美的自然景观之一。
回到住处后，我们照例又享受了一次桑拿。这一次，我终于鼓起勇气，在桑拿房里直接把一桶冷水从头浇下。虽然那一瞬间冷得让人打颤，但随后全身却感到无比舒畅，也算是这趟芬兰之旅又一次难忘的新体验。