Bo Kaap 波卡普区
April 15, 2025
It was time to go home. I dropped off Peimin at the airport for her flight to Shanghai, then took an Uber back to Cape Town’s City Hall—the site where Nelson Mandela gave his first public speech after being released from prison. As I approached the building, I noticed a side door was open and decided to walk in to ask whether I could visit the Mandela Museum. A kind staff member said yes and personally escorted me to the museum on the second floor. Before leaving, she spoke to another woman there and asked her to lead me out once I had finished.
The museum was quiet, with only two or three other visitors. It featured thoughtful exhibits on Mandela’s life and legacy. Afterward, the woman offered to take me up to the third floor, where another small museum showcased the city’s collections. I was genuinely touched by their warmth and hospitality. I’ve visited many museums over the years, but rarely have I encountered such kindness from staff.
Before I left, I stepped out onto the iconic balcony beside Mandela’s statue and looked out over the square. I imagined that historic moment when thousands gathered below to celebrate the dawn of a new era in South Africa. It gave me chills.
Later that day, I finally joined the guided tour of Bo-Kaap—the tour we had missed two days earlier. Formerly known as the Malay Quarter, Bo-Kaap is a vibrant neighborhood home to a predominantly Muslim community. Many of their ancestors were enslaved people, political exiles, and skilled artisans brought to the Cape by the Dutch from Southeast Asia, India, and East Africa.
During apartheid, the houses were uniformly painted white. After apartheid ended, residents began repainting their homes in bold, joyful colors—reclaiming their identity and expressing freedom. Today, Bo-Kaap is one of Cape Town’s most photographed neighborhoods and also the birthplace of Cape Malay cuisine. The area was clean and well maintained, though we were advised to walk together for safety.
Cape Town blew me away in every direction. Before visiting, South Africa’s dark modern history had left me with a negative impression. But after just a few days here, I now consider Cape Town one of the most remarkable destinations I’ve ever experienced.
It’s a city of striking contrasts—home to Table Mountain, one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature, and bordered on three sides by stunning beaches and dramatic coastlines. Vineyards and wineries are nestled within the city limits, reminiscent of California’s Napa Valley. A safari is just a couple of hours away. The city itself is as clean as Singapore. There’s no honking, barely any motorcycles or bicycles, and Uber rides are clean, affordable, and always available.
The coastline here rivals—perhaps even surpasses—California’s Monterey Bay. The V&A Waterfront could easily compete with Sydney’s harbor, if not surpass it. Hillside homes along the coast reminded me of Santa Barbara. The food scene was a pleasant surprise, with many dishes inspired by East Asian cuisine—one of our favorites.
Yet, beneath all this beauty, we were constantly reminded of the country’s challenges. Locals frequently advised us not to walk alone for safety. The country has staggering 40% unemployment rate and . It made me wonder what realities lie beneath this postcard-perfect surface.
Now I’m flying back to Phoenix. There’s truly no place like home—but Cape Town has left a deep and lasting impression on me.
波卡普区
2025年4月15日
是回家的时候了。早餐后我先送佩民去机场，她搭乘飞往上海的航班，然后我自己乘坐Uber回到开普敦旧市政厅——这是纳尔逊·曼德拉出狱后发表首次公开演讲的地方。走近市政厅时，我注意到侧门开着，便走进去问能否参观曼德拉博物馆。一位亲切的工作人员说可以，并亲自带我上到二楼的博物馆。在离开前，她还特地交代另一位女士，在我参观结束后带我出去。
博物馆里很安静，只有两三位游客。展览内容精心布置，呈现了曼德拉的一生及其伟大贡献。参观完后，那位女士又主动提出带我上三楼，那里还有一个展示本地藏品的小型博物馆。她们的热情与真诚让我深受感动。多年来我参观过无数博物馆，但像这样受到工作人员如此亲切对待的情况，却屈指可数。
离开前，我走上那座标志性的阳台，阳台旁就是曼德拉的雕像。我俯瞰着下方的广场，脑海中浮现出电影和照片见过的当年万众欢呼、迎接南非新时代到来的历史时刻。
然后我前去参加了波卡普区（Bo-Kaap）的徒步导览游——这是我们两天前错过的行程。波卡普原名马来区，是一个色彩斑斓、以穆斯林居民为主的社区。他们的祖先多为被荷兰殖民者从东南亚、印度和东非带到开普敦的奴隶、政治流放者及工匠。在种族隔离时期，这里的房屋都被统一刷成白色。种族隔离制度结束后，居民开始将房子重新粉刷成鲜艳明快的颜色，以此找回自己的身份，表达自由。如今，这里已成为开普敦最受欢迎的拍照景点之一，也是开普马来美食的发源地。社区虽干净整洁，但据说治安不好，导游不停地提醒我们结伴同行以策安全。
开普敦从各方面都让我惊艳。在来之前，南非阴暗的近代历史曾让我对这里抱有负面印象。但短短几天之后，我已经将开普敦列为最令人难忘的目的地之一。
这是一座充满对比的城市——这里有被誉为“新世界七大奇迹”之一的桌山，三面环海，海岸线壮丽迷人。城市中就有葡萄园和酒庄，令人联想到加州的纳帕谷。只需开车几小时，就能体验一次野生动物园之旅。城市本身整洁得仿佛新加坡，没有喇叭声，几乎看不到摩托车或自行车，Uber便捷、干净且价格合理。这里的海岸美景不输加州的蒙特雷湾，甚至可以说更胜一筹。V&A海滨区的繁华程度不亚于悉尼港口，甚至有过之而无不及。沿海的山坡住宅让我想起圣塔芭芭拉。饮食方面也充满惊喜，不少菜肴深受东亚风味影响，正合我们的口味。
然而，在这份美丽的背后，我们也不断被提醒这个国家所面临的挑战。当地人经常提醒我们不要单独外出，以策安全。全国失业率高达40%，这让我不禁思考，在这幅如明信片般美丽的表象下，掩藏着怎样的现实。
现在，我正飞回凤凰城。离家近三个月了，没有地方比家更温暖，但开普敦，已在我心中留下了深刻且持久的印象。