Colorado in July 七月里的科罗拉多

Aug. 16-28, 2025

On the morning of July 16, we loaded our car and headed to Durango. With several breaks along the way, we spent almost ten hours on the road. We arrived at our Airbnb rental in Durango around 6:00 PM—perfect timing to join our friends, who had arrived a bit earlier and had already started making dinner together.

On July 17, our first adventure took us to Castle Rock via the Elbert Creek Trail. The weather was cool and pleasant, and wildflowers blanketed the landscape in vibrant color. The trail offered breathtaking views but proved to be quite challenging, with a continuous ascent and descent and very few flat sections. At the summit, we paused to enjoy our prepared sandwiches while taking in the sweeping scenery. The hike totaled approximately 5.6 miles round-trip, with an elevation gain of about 1,700 feet.

On July 18, we set out for the Ice Lake Trail, considered one of the best hikes in the San Juan National Forest near Silverton. Due to its popularity, the parking lot was already full when we arrived in the morning, so we parked along the roadside. Park rangers briefed us on weather safety before we began. The sky was overcast, and it soon began to rain. Despite the weather, we enjoyed the hike as we ascended the trail. About halfway up, just as we emerged from the forest, a loud clap of thunder echoed overhead. Since the rest of the trail was above the tree line, we made the cautious decision to turn back. Although some of us were hesitant to give up, safety came first. We covered about 3.5 miles in total.

After lunch back at the trailhead, we took a short 1-mile walk to visit nearby waterfalls, which were scenic and well worth the detour. Later, we headed to Silverton, where we spent a relaxed afternoon strolling through the charming old western town and treating ourselves to some well-earned ice cream.

On July 19, we enjoyed two easier but equally rewarding hikes. The first was to Cascade Creek Falls, a short 0.8-mile trail that includes steep inclines and occasional rocky stretches. The waterfall was especially picturesque. We followed that with a longer hike on the Cascade Creek Trail, an easy 4.2-mile route that winds through meadows full of wildflowers and crosses gentle streams. It offered a peaceful walk through forests and open landscapes, rounding out our day with beautiful scenery and a relaxed pace.

On July 20, we said farewell to our friends and continued our journey to Granby, Colorado. The drive from our Airbnb in Durango to WorldMark by Wyndham in Granby took about six hours, with a small portion of it on a gravel road. We were surprised that a main route serving Granby—one of the key towns near Rocky Mountain National Park—still included unpaved sections. After the long and tiring drive, we were too exhausted to do any activities and simply did some grocery shopping and spent the rest of the day relaxing at the resort.

July 21, it’s a perfect day for outdoor activities. We hiked the Monarch Lake Loop (4 miles) near Grand Lake. The trail is well-known and scenic, but reaching the trailhead was an adventure in itself. The gravel road leading there was so rough that we had to drive as slow as 5 miles per hour. Once at the trail, we found it well-marked and easy to follow. Along the way, we passed by yet another Cascade Creek, and we couldn’t help but wonder just how many “Cascade Creeks” exist in Colorado.

On July 22, we set out to walk the 13-mile Fraser River Trail, which runs from Fraser to Winter Park Resort, under perfect Colorado summer weather. The trail offers a pleasant blend of nature paths along the river and forest, interspersed with paved sections that pass through a busy commercial district.

Around the halfway point, we stopped for lunch in Winter Park and enjoyed one of the best burgers we’d had in a long time. After lunch, we continued our walk to Winter Park Resort, completing the 6.5-mile one-way trek. The resort was bustling with summer visitors and activities. We took a relaxing coffee break and, rather than walk the same distance back, opted to take a free shuttle from Winter Park Resort back to Fraser, where we had parked our car.

It was a wonderful day—an enjoyable mix of nature, great food, and convenience. We especially appreciated the well-organized shuttle service that made the trip even more pleasant.

On July 23, our daughter and son joined us, driving in from Denver. Together, we took an easy 6.1-mile hike on the East Shore Trail along Shadow Mountain Lake. The highlight of the hike came as we were returning—two moose appeared on the trail and stared at us from a short distance. It was an unexpected and thrilling encounter, making the hike especially memorable.

On July 24, we decided to visit Rocky Mountain National Park. However, unaware of the timed-entry permit requirement, we were stopped at the Grand Lake entrance and couldn’t enter. Instead, we adapted our plans and took a short 0.8-mile hike to Adams Falls, a quick but scenic outing.

Later, we drove to the Strawberry Lake Trailhead near Lake Granby and completed a 4.2-mile hike to Strawberry Lake. The trail rewarded us with breathtaking views of the Indian Peaks Range, open meadows, and the pristine alpine lake—one of the most beautiful sights of our trip so far.

That evening, precisely at 7:00 PM, we logged into Recreation.gov and successfully secured timed-entry tickets for the park, including access to the Bear Lake Corridor for the next day.

On July 25, we left our accommodation early to enter Rocky Mountain National Park before 9:00 AM, which allowed us to enter without a timed-entry permit. Although we had secured tickets for the 10:00 AM–12:00 PM time slot at Bear Lake and for the rest of the park, we were concerned that entering around 10:00 might risk missing the Bear Lake window, given the 1.5-hour drive from Granby.

We parked at the Park & Ride and took the shuttle to the trailhead. From there, we completed a 4.7-mile hike that led us to Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, Emerald Lake, and finally Bear Lake. The trail was popular, well-maintained, and offered some of the most scenic alpine lake views in the park.

On our return, we stopped near the Rock Cut viewpoint and hiked the Toll Memorial Trail, a 1.1-mile round trip. Although it’s rated easy on AllTrails, we found it quite challenging due to the elevation of 12,300 feet. The tundra landscape and rock formations were stunning. We even climbed one of the rocky outcrops to enjoy a breathtaking 360-degree view of the Rocky Mountains.

July 26, our last day at Granby, we walked a total of 6.6 miles round-trip from Winter Park to Winter Park Resort, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch. Later that evening, we attended a rodeo show—likely our first.

We learned that horses are the primary animals used in rodeo events, even though bull riding is the most dramatic and dangerous. Interestingly, bull riding was reserved for the final act of the evening and turned out to be less thrilling than expected. The show also featured various community activities, making it a lively and inclusive event.

As for the food, it exceeded our expectations. The beef brisket was huge, tender, and flavorful. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience and the atmosphere—it was a memorable night.

In the morning of July 27, we said goodbye to our kids and began our drive back to Phoenix, making an overnight stop in Pagosa Springs, Colorado. After dinner, we took a peaceful walk along the San Juan River, enjoying the view of the hot springs resort lining the riverbank. The sulfur-scented steam rising from the natural geothermal springs, set against the soft light of the evening sky and the gentle flow of the river, created a tranquil and memorable atmosphere.

On July 28, on our way home, we visited Chimney Rock National Monument, a fascinating archaeological and cultural site in southwestern Colorado. Rising dramatically from a high mesa, the monument’s twin spires—Chimney Rock and Companion Rock—are visible from miles away and hold deep significance.

This area was once a thriving settlement and ceremonial center for the Ancestral Puebloans between 900 and 1150 A.D. Over 200 ancient structures remain, including pit houses, plazas, and the Great House Pueblo, which is perched high on the ridge. Most notably, the site was carefully aligned with celestial events: during the major lunar standstill, the moon rises precisely between the two rock spires—evidence of the inhabitants’ sophisticated understanding of astronomy.

We took time to walk the trails and take in the expansive views of the San Juan Mountains and surrounding valleys. The blend of cultural history, natural beauty, and spiritual significance made this stop a highlight of our return journey.

Our 12 days in Colorado left a lasting impression on us—with beautiful weather, stunning landscapes, and a sense of natural wellness that refreshed both body and mind. Each day except travel days, we hiked 4–7 miles, ranging from easy to difficult, totaling 49 miles. We already know: we’ll be coming back next year.

7月16日早晨,我们驾车前往科罗拉多州的杜兰戈(Durango)。途中数次休息,历时近10个小时。傍晚6点左右抵达杜兰戈的Airbnb住处,正好赶上与已抵达的朋友们一起共进晚餐。

7月17日,开始我们第一次徒步,沿着Elbert Creek Trail前往Castle Rock。当天的天气凉爽宜人,山野间开满鲜艳的野花。步道景色壮丽,但坡度起伏较大,少有平缓路段。到达山顶后,我们边欣赏辽阔的景色,边享用自备的三明治。这次徒步全程约5.6英里,累计攀高约1700英尺。

7月18日,我们前往Ice Lake Trail,这是银顿(Silverton)附近圣胡安国家森林(San Juan National Forest)中最受欢迎的徒步路线之一。因其人气很高,我们到达时停车场早已爆满,我们只好将车停在路边。公园管理员提醒我们注意天气安全。启程时天空阴云密布,不久便开始下雨。但一路上的美景依然让我们兴致高昂。当徒步至半程刚走出树林时,头顶传来响亮的雷声。由于后续路段在林木线以上,谨慎起见我们决定返程。尽管有些不舍,我们还是作出了安全第一的决定。上午我们共徒步约3.5英里。在步道起点处用过午餐后,我们又步行1英里左右去看附近的瀑布,景色秀美,值得一看。随后我们来到银顿镇 (Silverton),悠闲地漫步于这座充满西部风情的小镇,品尝了美味的冰淇淋。

7月19日,我们轻松地完成了两次徒步。首先是Cascade Creek Falls,短短0.8英里,但陡峭且路面多岩石,瀑布景致迷人。随后我们又在Cascade Creek Trail徒步4.2英里,途中穿越满是野花的草甸和潺潺溪流,沿途宁静祥和,风光秀丽。

7月20日,我们与朋友们告别,继续前往科罗拉多州的格兰比(Granby)。从杜兰戈到格兰比的WorldMark by Wyndham度假村车程约6小时,其中一小部分路段为碎石路,这让我们有些意外。通往格兰比这样靠近落基山国家公园的重要小镇,竟还有未铺装的路段。经过漫长而疲惫的车程,我们当天仅购物、休息,没有安排其他活动。

7月21日,我们在Grand Lake附近的Monarch Lake徒步4英里,风景优美。然而通往步道起点(trailhead)的道路崎岖不平,我们只能以每小时5英里的速度缓慢前行。但徒步道维护良好,沿途景色迷人,标识也很清晰,行程顺利,还途经另一个Cascade Creek,让我们不禁好奇,科罗拉多究竟有多少条名为“Cascade Creek”的溪流。

7月22日,我们踏上13英里长的Fraser River Trail,从弗雷泽(Fraser)前往Winter Park度假村,沿途天气晴朗舒适。途经河岸、森林和热闹的商业区,风光怡人。

途中我们在Winter Park享用了一顿美味的汉堡,之后继续前往Winter Park 度假村。到达后稍作休息,并搭乘免费接驳巴士返回弗雷泽。整日行程愉快且轻松,特别满意便捷的交通安排。

7月23日,女儿和儿子从丹佛(Denver)赶来与我们汇合。我们一同沿Shadow Mountain Lake的East Shore Trail轻松徒步6.1英里。返程途中惊喜遇见两头驼鹿近距离注视着我们,令人兴奋不已,成为当日最大亮点。

7月24日,我们未提前预约,未能进入落基山国家公园(Rocky Mountain National Park)。转而游览Adams Falls,短短0.8英里路程,风景迷人。随后又徒步4.2英里前往Strawberry Lake,路上远眺印第安峰山脉(Indian Peaks Range),穿过草甸,抵达宁静美丽的高山湖泊,景色令人惊叹。当晚7点准时上网顺利预约了次日入园许可。

7月25日,我们一早入园,徒步4.7英里,游览Nymph Lake、Dream Lake、Emerald Lake和Bear Lake,景色优美,步道维护良好。随后又登上海拔12,300英尺的Toll Memorial Trail,尽享落基山脉的360度壮丽景观。

7月26日,我们往返Winter Park Resort徒步6.6英里,午餐美味。晚上观看了我们人生第一次牛仔竞技表演(Rodeo),发现原来牛仔竞技中主要使用马匹,而最刺激的骑牛项目却比想象中温和。晚餐的牛肉胸肉尤为美味,整体氛围活跃而难忘。

7月27日,我们与孩子们道别,启程返回凤凰城(Phoenix),中途在帕戈萨斯普林斯(Pagosa Springs)过夜。晚饭后沿圣胡安河(San Juan River)漫步,欣赏河岸温泉度假村散发出的淡淡硫磺味,气氛静谧迷人。

7月28日,我们参观了奇姆尼岩国家纪念地(Chimney Rock National Monument),这是一处重要的考古与文化遗址。高耸的双峰石柱极为醒目,古老建筑遗迹和精确对准特殊月相的建筑布局,展示了古普韦布洛人的高超天文智慧。这次文化与自然结合的体验,为返程之旅画上了完美句点。

在科罗拉多的12天,我们徒步共计49英里,天气宜人,风景如画,身心得到极大放松。我们已迫不及待地期待明年的再访。

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Bo Kaap 波卡普区