Bo Kaap 波卡普区
April 15, 2025
It was time to go home……
是回家的时候了。。。
April 15, 2025
It was time to go home. I dropped off Peimin at the airport for her flight to Shanghai, then took an Uber back to Cape Town’s City Hall—the site where Nelson Mandela gave his first public speech after being released from prison. As I approached the building, I noticed a side door was open and decided to walk in to ask whether I could visit the Mandela Museum. A kind staff member said yes and personally escorted me to the museum on the second floor. Before leaving, she spoke to another woman there and asked her to lead me out once I had finished.
The museum was quiet, with only two or three other visitors. It featured thoughtful exhibits on Mandela’s life and legacy. Afterward, the woman offered to take me up to the third floor, where another small museum showcased the city’s collections. I was genuinely touched by their warmth and hospitality. I’ve visited many museums over the years, but rarely have I encountered such kindness from staff.
Before I left, I stepped out onto the iconic balcony beside Mandela’s statue and looked out over the square. I imagined that historic moment when thousands gathered below to celebrate the dawn of a new era in South Africa. It gave me chills.
Later that day, I finally joined the guided tour of Bo-Kaap—the tour we had missed two days earlier. Formerly known as the Malay Quarter, Bo-Kaap is a vibrant neighborhood home to a predominantly Muslim community. Many of their ancestors were enslaved people, political exiles, and skilled artisans brought to the Cape by the Dutch from Southeast Asia, India, and East Africa.
During apartheid, the houses were uniformly painted white. After apartheid ended, residents began repainting their homes in bold, joyful colors—reclaiming their identity and expressing freedom. Today, Bo-Kaap is one of Cape Town’s most photographed neighborhoods and also the birthplace of Cape Malay cuisine. The area was clean and well maintained, though we were advised to walk together for safety.
Cape Town blew me away in every direction. Before visiting, South Africa’s dark modern history had left me with a negative impression. But after just a few days here, I now consider Cape Town one of the most remarkable destinations I’ve ever experienced.
It’s a city of striking contrasts—home to Table Mountain, one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature, and bordered on three sides by stunning beaches and dramatic coastlines. Vineyards and wineries are nestled within the city limits, reminiscent of California’s Napa Valley. A safari is just a couple of hours away. The city itself is as clean as Singapore. There’s no honking, barely any motorcycles or bicycles, and Uber rides are clean, affordable, and always available.
The coastline here rivals—perhaps even surpasses—California’s Monterey Bay. The V&A Waterfront could easily compete with Sydney’s harbor, if not surpass it. Hillside homes along the coast reminded me of Santa Barbara. The food scene was a pleasant surprise, with many dishes inspired by East Asian cuisine—one of our favorites.
Yet, beneath all this beauty, we were constantly reminded of the country’s challenges. Locals frequently advised us not to walk alone for safety. The country has staggering 40% unemployment rate and . It made me wonder what realities lie beneath this postcard-perfect surface.
Now I’m flying back to Phoenix. There’s truly no place like home—but Cape Town has left a deep and lasting impression on me.
波卡普区
2025年4月15日
是回家的时候了。早餐后我先送佩民去机场，她搭乘飞往上海的航班，然后我自己乘坐Uber回到开普敦旧市政厅——这是纳尔逊·曼德拉出狱后发表首次公开演讲的地方。走近市政厅时，我注意到侧门开着，便走进去问能否参观曼德拉博物馆。一位亲切的工作人员说可以，并亲自带我上到二楼的博物馆。在离开前，她还特地交代另一位女士，在我参观结束后带我出去。
博物馆里很安静，只有两三位游客。展览内容精心布置，呈现了曼德拉的一生及其伟大贡献。参观完后，那位女士又主动提出带我上三楼，那里还有一个展示本地藏品的小型博物馆。她们的热情与真诚让我深受感动。多年来我参观过无数博物馆，但像这样受到工作人员如此亲切对待的情况，却屈指可数。
离开前，我走上那座标志性的阳台，阳台旁就是曼德拉的雕像。我俯瞰着下方的广场，脑海中浮现出电影和照片见过的当年万众欢呼、迎接南非新时代到来的历史时刻。
然后我前去参加了波卡普区（Bo-Kaap）的徒步导览游——这是我们两天前错过的行程。波卡普原名马来区，是一个色彩斑斓、以穆斯林居民为主的社区。他们的祖先多为被荷兰殖民者从东南亚、印度和东非带到开普敦的奴隶、政治流放者及工匠。在种族隔离时期，这里的房屋都被统一刷成白色。种族隔离制度结束后，居民开始将房子重新粉刷成鲜艳明快的颜色，以此找回自己的身份，表达自由。如今，这里已成为开普敦最受欢迎的拍照景点之一，也是开普马来美食的发源地。社区虽干净整洁，但据说治安不好，导游不停地提醒我们结伴同行以策安全。
开普敦从各方面都让我惊艳。在来之前，南非阴暗的近代历史曾让我对这里抱有负面印象。但短短几天之后，我已经将开普敦列为最令人难忘的目的地之一。
这是一座充满对比的城市——这里有被誉为“新世界七大奇迹”之一的桌山，三面环海，海岸线壮丽迷人。城市中就有葡萄园和酒庄，令人联想到加州的纳帕谷。只需开车几小时，就能体验一次野生动物园之旅。城市本身整洁得仿佛新加坡，没有喇叭声，几乎看不到摩托车或自行车，Uber便捷、干净且价格合理。这里的海岸美景不输加州的蒙特雷湾，甚至可以说更胜一筹。V&A海滨区的繁华程度不亚于悉尼港口，甚至有过之而无不及。沿海的山坡住宅让我想起圣塔芭芭拉。饮食方面也充满惊喜，不少菜肴深受东亚风味影响，正合我们的口味。
然而，在这份美丽的背后，我们也不断被提醒这个国家所面临的挑战。当地人经常提醒我们不要单独外出，以策安全。全国失业率高达40%，这让我不禁思考，在这幅如明信片般美丽的表象下，掩藏着怎样的现实。
现在，我正飞回凤凰城。离家近三个月了，没有地方比家更温暖，但开普敦，已在我心中留下了深刻且持久的印象。
Cape of Good Hope 好望角
April 14 2025
It was another day of perfect weather……
来到开普敦第四天了。。。
April 14 2025
It was another day of perfect weather. We joined a guided tour to visit the Cape of Good Hope and see the African penguins at Boulders Beach.
Our first stop was the old lighthouse. We took the Flying Dutchman funicular to the top and then walked down. The lighthouse had been decommissioned long ago because it was often shrouded in clouds due to its high elevation. The view from the top was still stunning.
Next, we hiked about 45 minutes to the Cape of Good Hope. Contrary to popular belief, it’s neither the southernmost point of Africa nor the meeting point of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. It’s simply another scenic coastal landmark—nothing too special to us.
After that, the bus took us to one of the two penguin colonies in Cape Town. Watching the penguin parents feed their chicks was a heartwarming experience.
After the tour, we took a leisurely stroll around the V&A Waterfront. We really liked it—it’s definitely one of the nicest waterfronts we’ve visited.
For dinner, we enjoyed some traditional South African cuisine. The braai (grilled lamb, beef, and ostrich) and Cape Malay chicken curry were both delicious. Afterward, we called an Uber back to our hotel. The traffic control staff in the area kindly helped us twice—yesterday and today—to locate our Uber. We used Uber many times in Cape Town, and all the drivers were friendly. The service was convenient and affordable.
好望角
2025年4月14日
来到开普敦第四天了。今天又是一个天气晴朗、非常适合出游的日子。我们参加了一个当地旅游团，前往好望角，并去博尔德斯海滩（Boulders Beach）观看非洲企鹅。
来到好望角自然保护区，第一站是好望角旧灯塔。我们搭乘登山缆车上山，再步行下山。这座灯塔因为位置太高，经常被云雾笼罩，早已被废弃。但山顶的景色依然非常壮观。在山顶能看见下面的新灯塔。
接着我们徒步大约45分钟前往好望角。其实这里既不是非洲大陆的最南端，也不是印度洋和大西洋的交汇点。原名叫风暴角，后来葡萄牙国王把它改成好望角。
随后，巴士带我们前往开普敦的企鹅保护区之一。看到企鹅爸爸妈妈轮番孵蛋以及喂养小企鹅的画面，真是可爱又令人感动。
行程结束后，我们在V&A海滨广场附近随意散步。这里游客不少，除了景色好，更有着数不胜数的购物餐饮服务。我们非常喜欢这里，这是我们去过的最棒的海滨广场之一。晚餐我们在海滨广场尝试了南非传统料理。烤肉拼盘（包括羊肉、牛肉和鸵鸟肉）以及马来风味的咖喱鸡，再来一份南非甜品，每一样都非常美味。
饭后我们叫了Uber回酒店。广场附近的交通管理人员帮了我们两次忙——昨天和今天，协助我们确认上车地点并找到所订的车。在开普敦我们多次使用Uber，司机都很友好，价格也很实惠。我们一直被提醒说开普敦不安全，但至少我们接触到的所有人都很友善。
Third Day in Cape Town 开普敦第三天
April 13, 2025
The weather turned out to be perfect for sightseeing,…..
今天天气非常好，。。。
April 13, 2025
The weather turned out to be perfect for sightseeing—clear skies and comfortable temperatures. We boarded the Hop-On Hop-Off bus for the third time, eager to explore more of Cape Town.
Our first stop was in the city center, where we had hoped to join a free walking tour. Unfortunately, the group had already left about ten minutes earlier. A staff member at the tour office kindly directed us to try and catch up with them, but we couldn’t find the group. Instead, we decided to join a different walking tour focused on the city’s historical buildings.
Although the city center was clean and quiet, our guide repeatedly reminded us to stay close together for safety reasons. It was a subtle but constant reminder of the complexities that lie beneath the surface of this beautiful city.
After the tour, we hopped back on the blue line bus and rode to Hout Bay for lunch. This seaside town is a popular spot, and we quickly discovered why—the fish and chips, along with the shrimp, were fresh and delicious.
From there, we continued our journey, getting off at Sea Point. We walked along the coastline toward Mouille Point, taking in stunning ocean views. The walk was absolutely beautiful—unlike any coastal path we’ve seen before.
At Mouille Point, we boarded the bus one last time and returned to the V&A Waterfront. We grabbed a quick bite—a croissant and tacos to go—before boarding the Sunset Tour bus.
This special ride took us up to Signal Hill, where we enjoyed a light snack while watching the sun slowly dip below the horizon. The city had laid out large pieces of fabric across the ground, making it easy and comfortable for everyone to sit and enjoy the view. The sunset was breathtaking, casting warm light over the mountains and sea. As an added bonus, it was a full moon night—so just as the sun disappeared, the moon rose, lighting up the evening sky. It was a magical experience—one we’ll never forget.
开普敦第三天
2025年4月13日
今天天气非常好，我们连续第三天搭乘了城市的观光巴士（Hop-On Hop-Off），继续探索开普敦。
第一站是市中心，我们原本打算参加一场免费的步行导览，但可惜已经晚到了十分钟。导览办公室的一位工作人员热心地带我们试图追上队伍，但我们还是没能找到他们。于是我们转而参加了另一条路线的导览，主要是参观市中心的一些历史建筑。
虽然市中心干净而安静，导游却一路不断提醒我们为安全起见，大家不要走散，小组一起行动。这也让人隐约意识到这个城市在美丽背后仍有它的复杂一面。
导览结束后，我们再次跳上蓝线巴士，前往豪特湾（Hout Bay）吃午餐。那里是个非常受欢迎的用餐地点，我们点了当地的特色美食炸鱼，薯条和炸虾，非常新鲜美味。
午餐后，我们继续搭巴士，在海角（Sea Point）下车，沿着海岸线步行前往穆里角（Mouille Point）。一路风景美不胜收，我们几乎想不出曾经去过哪个地方可以与之相比。
抵达穆里角后，我们最后一次登上巴士，回到V&A海滨广场。我们匆匆买了可颂和塔可外带，然后登上了日落观光巴士。
这辆巴士带我们登上信号山（Signal Hill），我们一边吃着简单小食，一边欣赏夕阳缓缓落下。山顶上铺满了大片的布料，方便游客舒适地席地而坐。眼前的日落与周围景致美得令人屏息。而且那天恰逢满月，太阳落下之后，月亮随之升起，月光洒满夜空。这是一次难以忘怀的体验。下山的路上我们也最后再看一眼还停靠在港口，但马上就要起航的邮轮，和她说声再见。
Second Day in Cape Town 开普敦第二天
April 12, 2025
Today’s weather was rainy and windy,……
25天的邮轮旅行今天终于结束了。
April 12, 2025
Our 25-day cruise journey finally ended today. We traveled all the way from Asia to East Africa, and onward to South Africa. Along the way, we passed Cape Agulhas—the southernmost tip of Africa where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet—and then continued past the famous Cape of Good Hope before arriving in Cape Town. Every port and every country the cruise stopped at was new to us, making this an extraordinary experience.
After enjoying our last breakfast onboard this morning, we reluctantly disembarked. We ordered an Uber at the pier and checked into the nearby Westin Hotel. The cruise line had offered a bus transfer to the hotel at $40 per person because many passengers planned to stay there and continue their sightseeing in Cape Town. However, upon checking the map and seeing that it was just a few minutes away, we opted to call an Uber ourselves, which only cost us $3.
After checking in, we quickly headed out to explore. We were very lucky yesterday—the good weather gave us the chance to ascend Table Mountain. Today, however, the weather turned windy and rainy. Undeterred, we took the blue-line sightseeing bus, visiting Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Groot Constantia Winery, and the World of Birds Wildlife Sanctuary.
The National Botanical Garden was beautiful and meticulously maintained. Despite the chilly rain, walking through the peaceful grounds felt refreshing and serene.
Groot Constantia, the oldest winery in South Africa, was a lovely stop. We enjoyed a relaxing lunch at their café, savoring local flavors with chicken wings and a comforting bowl of seafood laksa (curry).
In contrast, the World of Birds was a bit underwhelming. We were also disappointed to miss the Monkey Jungle exhibit due to its short opening hours.
After 25 days aboard the cruise ship, we were really craving Chinese food. We found satisfaction at Dawn Asian Restaurant, where every dish—stir-fried string beans, Hong Kong-style prawns, and egg noodles—was flavorful and hit the spot.
开普敦第二天
2025年4月12日
25天的邮轮旅行今天终于结束了。一路从亚洲来到东非，再到南非。又从印度洋与大西洋的交界处，也是非洲大陆的最南端奥古哈斯角 （Cape Agulhas）绕过，再经过著名的好望角，最终来到开普敦。这次邮轮停靠的每一个港口，每一个国家我们以前都没来过，所以这是一次很不错的体验。
早上在船上吃了最后一顿早餐后，依依不舍地下了船。在船码头叫了Uber，来到不远处的Westin酒店入住。因为船上有不少乘客今天下船后将入住Westin酒店，继续在开普敦游玩，我们邮轮特地提供从船码头到酒店的大巴服务，收费每人40美金。看着地图才几分钟的路程，我们决定还是自己叫Uber, 结果才3美金。
办完入住赶紧出去转转。我们昨天很幸运，好天气让我们有机会登上桌山。可今天的天气是刮风下雨，但我们依然出门游玩，搭乘了蓝线的观光巴士，依次游览了国家植物园、Groot Constantia酒庄以及鸟类世界公园。
国家植物园风景如画，维护得井井有条。尽管天气寒冷、细雨绵绵，在花园中漫步却意外地令人心旷神怡。
Groot Constantia 是南非最古老的酒庄，环境优美，氛围宁静。在酒庄的餐厅里，我们享用了当地风味的午餐：炸鸡翅和一碗暖胃的海鲜喇沙（咖喱汤面），十分美味。
相比之下，鸟类世界公园让人有些失望。我们还错过了园区内猴子丛林的开放时间，稍感遗憾。
在船上待了25天之后，我们非常想念中餐了。于是我们去了 Dawn Asian 餐厅，点了清炒四季豆、避风塘大虾和炒鸡蛋面，每一道菜都香气扑鼻、令人满足。