Charleston, SC
September 4–8, 2025
After one day of rest at home in Phoenix following our two-week trip to Argentina and Brazil,……
September 4–8, 2025
After one day of rest at home in Phoenix following our two-week trip to Argentina and Brazil, I flew to Charleston, South Carolina to meet my son, Cody, for a birthday getaway. We met at the airport, rented a car, and drove to our hotel in Mount Pleasant, a suburb of Charleston. Shortly after settling in, we headed to nearby Shem Creek and enjoyed our first seafood meal at Saltwater Cowboys. As the sun set, the creek shimmered beautifully in the evening light.
On September 5, we drove into historic downtown Charleston and spent the morning strolling through the charming streets. The surrounding plantations were stunning. For lunch, we stopped at Fleet Landing by the water. Both the Fried Green Tomato Stack and the Charleston Shrimp & Grits were unique and delicious. Afterward, we walked along the Waterfront Park, enjoying the breeze and the views.
For Cody’s birthday dinner, we had our eyes on one of the most popular seafood restaurants in Charleston—Chubby Fish. The restaurant opens at 5 p.m., takes no reservations, but allows you to put your name down for later seatings. We arrived at 4 p.m. and joined the already-forming line. When the doors opened at 5, we were lucky enough to secure seats for the 6:45 p.m. second seating. With more than an hour to spare, we walked to The Darling Oyster Bar nearby and enjoyed 16 oysters—some costing only $1 each.
We returned to Chubby Fish for the main celebration. The food did not disappoint: the caviar sandwich, shrimp tempura served on top of bone marrow, and tuna toast were all excellent. The biggest surprise came at the end, when the waitress handed us a $0.01 bill and told us Cody’s sister had called ahead and taken care of the entire meal. It was such a thoughtful, loving gesture—a perfect end to what must have been one of Cody’s best birthday celebrations.
On September 6, we set out for Bulls Island. We boarded a scenic 30-minute ferry ride that wound through tidal creeks before reaching the island in the Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge. Once ashore, we walked through lush jungle trails and explored Boneyard Beach. Along the way, we searched for sand dollars and collected beautiful shells. The sun was scorching, but we had a wonderful time. On the ferry back, we were greeted by playful dolphins swimming alongside the boat.
Back in the city, we enjoyed baked oysters before heading to a popular local spot for classic Southern BBQ.
On September 7, we visited Cypress Gardens and rowed a boat across the quiet pond, surrounded by hauntingly beautiful cypress trees—a peaceful and memorable experience. For lunch, we tried a local restaurant and enjoyed another round of shrimp and grits.
In the afternoon, we toured Magnolia Plantation and Gardens. We took a plantation tour to learn about the family’s history and wandered through the lush estate. Halfway through, a sudden downpour drenched us, but it added a bit of adventure to the day.
For our final dinner, we returned once more to Shem Creek and enjoyed a delicious seafood meal at Shem Creek Crab House.
On September 8, after breakfast, we returned the car and headed to the airport. Our father-and-son birthday trip came to an end—an unforgettable time filled with great food, nature, and cherished memories together.
Botanic Garden & Going Home 植物园与回家了
September 2, 2025
Today marked the final day of our,……
今天是我们布宜诺斯艾利斯、。。。
September 2, 2025
Today marked the final day of our, Buenos Aires, Iguazú Falls and Rio journey. Since our flight was not until the evening, we still had a full day to explore. Believe it or not, during the entire trip we had never sat down for a proper breakfast in a restaurant. We decided to change that this morning and stopped by a local spot on the way to the Rio Botanical Garden. The western-style breakfast was filling, though not particularly Brazilian in flavor.
At the Botanical Garden, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the marvelous and biodiverse grounds. Lush greenery surrounded us, jackfruit hung from the trees, and playful monkeys caught much of our attention. We lingered there longer than expected, soaking up the peaceful atmosphere, and had a delightful lunch right inside the garden before wrapping up our visit.
In the afternoon, it was time to head to the airport. We spent a couple of comfortable hours at the Priority Pass Lounge before boarding our overnight flight. By morning, we landed in Atlanta, where we checked into the Delta Sky Club with our travel companions while waiting for our connecting flight to Phoenix. In the lounge, we improvised a little birthday cake and even sang a birthday song for one of our friends—a cheerful and heartfelt way to close the journey.
What a fitting end to this trip: beautiful gardens, shared laughter, and memories to carry home.
二零二五年九月二日
今天是我们布宜诺斯艾利斯、伊瓜苏瀑布和里约热内卢之旅的最后一天。由于航班在晚上才起飞，我们依然有大半天的时间可以探索。在整个旅程中，我们还没在餐厅里正式吃过早餐。于是今天早上，我们决定打破惯例，在前往里约植物园的路上，在一家当地餐馆享用了一顿早餐。虽然是西式风味，分量充足，但并没有多少巴西特色。
在植物园里，郁郁葱葱的绿意环绕四周，树上挂满了菠萝蜜，而顽皮的小猴子更是吸引了大家的目光。我们悠闲地漫步在充满奇妙与生物多样性的园区中。最后还在园区内的餐厅享用了一顿惬意的午餐，才依依不舍地离开。
回到住处打包收拾行李，预定的出租车准时来接我们前往机场。在候机的几个小时里，我们在 Priority Pass 贵宾休息室里舒适地度过。在飞机上好好睡了一觉，夜航班清晨抵达亚特兰大，我们和同行伙伴们一起进入达美航空Sky Club，在那里等待转机前往凤凰城。在休息室里，得知今天正好是其中一位朋友的生日，我们搞了一份小小的生日蛋糕，还为朋友唱起了生日歌——温馨而欢乐的时光，让我们的四国之行有一个完美的结局。同时为我们自己还能像以前一样在外折腾而欣慰。
Christ the Redeemer 基督像
September 1, 2025
Christ the Redeemer is the most iconic landmark in Rio de Janeiro. …...
基督像是里约热内卢最具代表性的地标。。。
September 1, 2025
Christ the Redeemer is the most iconic landmark in Rio de Janeiro. There are two main ways to reach the site: by funicular or by van. While riding the funicular would have been our preferred choice, it requires a 40-minute walk from the nearest metro station through unfamiliar streets. To avoid the extra walk, we opted for the official van service that picked us up directly at Botafogo Metro Station. After a short ride, we transferred to another van that carried us up the mountain to the monument.
Unfortunately, the weather was not very cooperative today. Clouds covered the sky and light rain came and went. At first, the statue was completely hidden in mist. But as luck has often been with us on this trip, the rain suddenly stopped and the clouds drifted away. Christ the Redeemer appeared dramatically before the cheering crowd—only to vanish again a few minutes later back into the mist, a truly mysterious sight.
After a short stroll through the small park at the summit, we descended by van back to the metro station and took the train to the city center for lunch at Café Colombo. Two days earlier we had seen long lines there, but this time we walked in without waiting. As Rio’s oldest café, it impressed us with its grand architecture and elegant interior. The food and drinks were satisfying, and the lively atmosphere was heightened by several birthday celebrations taking place around us.
In the afternoon we headed to the Museum of Tomorrow, where we spent a couple of hours exploring its creative exhibitions. The futuristic architecture of the building itself was a highlight. Plus, it was free for elders like us. Afterwards, we took an Uber to Ipanema and strolled along the beach, sipping fresh coconuts and soaking up the vibrant seaside vibe before dinner.
For our final meal in Rio, we wanted to show consideration for one of our travel companions who is vegetarian. She had graciously joined us at many meat-heavy restaurants throughout the trip, so we chose a vegan restaurant for the evening. It turned out to be an excellent choice—not just for her, but for everyone. The dishes were delicious and full of flavor.
Although the day began with rain, it ended as yet another memorable travel day filled with iconic scenery, rich culture, and great food.
二零二五年九月一日
基督像是里约热内卢最具代表性的地标。前往山顶有两种方式：乘坐登山小火车或开车。我们本来更想搭乘小火车，但从最近的地铁站走过去需要40分钟，而且路不熟。为了避免额外的步行，我们选择了官方面包车服务，在博塔弗戈 (Botafogo) 地铁站直接上车。短途行驶后，我们换乘另一辆面包车，才最终抵达山顶的纪念碑。
今天的天气并不太配合, 早上起来天空就一直布满乌云，时不时还飘着小雨。当我们到达山顶时，起初雕像完全隐没在浓雾之中。但幸运一如既往地伴随着我们的旅程，几分钟后雨突然停了，云层慢慢散开。基督像在欢呼的人群面前戏剧般地显现出来——不到一分钟又神秘地重新消失在雾气之中，场面奇妙而震撼。大家都不愿离开，眼看着基督像就这样云里雾里的忽隐忽现，那种感觉真的是很神奇。功夫不负有心人，我们居然等到被蓝天白云衬托着基督像。
在山顶待了近一小时后，我们乘面包车下山回到地铁站，再搭地铁前往市中心，在科伦布咖啡馆（Café Colombo) 用午餐。两天前我们路过时，这里排着长长的队等开门。今天我们运气好，竟能直接入座，并且正好还是六个人的大桌。作为里约最古老的咖啡馆，它以宏伟的建筑和华丽的内部装饰闻名，令人印象深刻。餐点和饮品也颇为可口，而热闹的气氛更因多场生日聚会而显得格外喜庆。
下午，我们前往明日博物馆 (Museum of Tomorrow)，花了两个小时参观创意十足的展览。未来感十足的建筑本身就是一大亮点，而且对我们这样的“长者”还是免费入场。之后我们叫了 Uber 去到伊帕内玛 (Ipanema)，沿着海滩散步，一边喝着新鲜的椰子水，一边感受充满活力的海边氛围。
在里约的最后一顿晚餐，我们特别为同行的一位素食伙伴挑选了一家素食店。从阿根廷到巴西，一路以来她都毫无怨言地陪我们大家在以肉食为主的饭店用餐，因此今晚我们大家决定陪她一起吃素食。结果证明这一选择非常明智——不仅仅是她，我们每一位都觉得菜肴非常美味可口，是一次很不错的体验。
Sugar Loaf Mountain and Sunset Cruise 面包山与日落游船
August 31，2025
After a healthy breakfast in our rental unit, we set out early,……
在租住公寓享用了一顿健康的早餐后，。。。
August 31，2025
After a healthy breakfast in our rental unit, we set out early, catching the Metro and then walking about 30 minutes to the Sugar Loaf Mountain cable station. Thanks to the early start, we avoided the crowds and easily boarded the two connecting cable cars. At the summit, the view was simply breathtaking—sweeping 360-degree panoramas of sea, city, and steep green peaks blended together to form one of the most striking urban landscapes in the world.
We spent a couple of hours strolling around the top before descending to the middle station. Instead of continuing down by cable car, we chose to hike through the dense forest trail. Along the way, we were lucky to spot small monkeys darting among the trees. At the base, we eyed a popular beachfront restaurant near Sugar Loaf, but the wait was over an hour. Instead, we called an Uber to Café Marinas, our next scheduled stop. There we found an Argentinian steakhouse—one of Michael’s recommendations—and enjoyed a relaxed lunch outdoors. The food was delicious, and we savored the flavors of Argentina one more time while soaking in the perfect weather.
In the afternoon, we walked to the nearby dock for our 4:00 pm sunset cruise. Although the sun was a little shy, hiding behind the clouds, the scenery was still magnificent. As the boat glided along Guanabara Bay, we passed striking landmarks such as the Museum of Contemporary Art, the futuristic Museum of Tomorrow, and a small white seaside church beloved by us.
For dinner, we treated ourselves to Giuseppe Grill Leblon, a high-end Brazilian steakhouse. The service was impeccable, though the food itself did not quite meet our expectations.
Overall, it was a wonderful day in Rio—soaking up the spectacular views from Sugar Loaf Mountain, admiring the city from the water on a scenic cruise through Guanabara Bay, and ending with a taste of Brazil’s upscale dining scene.
二零二五年八月三十一日
在租住公寓享用了一顿健康的早餐后，我们早早出发，乘坐地铁再步行约 30 分钟，来到面包山 (Sugar Loaf Mountain) 的缆车站。我们提前在网上买好了票，由于时间尚早，没有任何排队。顺利乘了两段缆车登顶之后，眼前的景色令人屏息——360 度全景尽收眼底：大海、沙滩，城市与陡峭的青翠山峰交织在一起，构成了一幅壮丽的景观。
我们在山顶悠闲漫步了两个多小时，随后坐一程缆车下到中途站，没有继续乘第二程缆车，而是选择徒步穿行在茂密的森林小径中下山。一路上幸运地遇见了几只在树间跳跃的小猴子。抵达山脚后，来到我们之前看中的一家临海餐厅，但等位时间要超过一小时，于是改叫 Uber 前往下一个目的地 —— Café Marinas。在那里，我们发现了一家阿根廷牛排馆，这是家米其林推荐的餐厅。因为晚上要吃大餐，中午我们就以素食为主，当然既然坐在牛排馆，阿根廷烤肉还是要来一点的。我们坐在户外，享用正宗的阿根廷美食，再次沉浸于完美的天气之中。
饭后我们步行至附近码头，参加下午四点的日落游船。虽然太阳有些害羞，时常躲在云层里，但景色依然很美。游船缓缓驶在瓜纳巴拉湾 (Guanabara Bay)，沿途经过当代艺术博物馆、充满未来感的明日博物馆，以及一座小巧洁白的海边教堂。
晚餐我们来到位于 Leblon 的 Giuseppe Grill，这是一家高档巴西牛排馆。来之前期望很高，但也许是这些天来阿根廷烤肉吃多了，今晚的大餐虽然服务无可挑剔，但食物本身并没有让我们十分惊艳。
总体而言，今天在里约度过了美好的一天 —— 登顶面包山欣赏壮丽景色，在瓜纳巴拉湾乘船领略城市风光，并体验了巴西高端餐厅的风味。
Rio de Janeiro 里约热内卢
August 29，2025
On the Brazil side, we stayed near the border,……
在伊瓜苏巴西一侧，我们的旅馆离边境很近，。。。
August 29，2025
On the Brazil side, we stayed near the border, far from the town of Foz do Iguaçu and any commercial district. After returning from the park last night, we ordered home delivery from a Japanese restaurant. The food was decent. This morning, we had breakfast at the hotel. The property was simple: rooms on the second floor, with an open parking garage and a small sitting area below. Our host, who lived in the same compound, was very kind and welcoming.
After check-out, our Brazil driver picked us up and took us to the airport. We arrived a few hours early and were pleasantly surprised to find a comfortable Priority Pass lounge. Since both of us had membership, we could treat our friends as guests. Even better, we discovered a small private room that fit all six of us—perfect for chatting in Chinese without disturbing anyone.
Looking back, our visit to Iguazú Falls was flawless: perfect weather, perfect scenery, and perfect car service.
Upon arrival in Rio de Janeiro, we met a representative from the transfer company we hired from booking.com at the exit. She led us to a waiting area where our hired van pulled up. Because there was no space inside for luggage, the driver secured our bags on the roof rack. Soon we were on our way to our Airbnb in Leblon.
Not long after departing, the driver pulled into a fuel station and asked us all to step out. A worker opened the front hood to fill the car with ethanol gas. Although he could have refueled before picking us up, we didn’t mind—this small moment gave us a glimpse into everyday life in Brazil. The rest of the ride was smooth. Despite our giving him the wrong street number, the driver went out of his way to ensure we were dropped off at the correct address.
Our Airbnb unit was on the ninth floor. After settling in, we headed next door to an Italian restaurant for dinner. We indulged in hearty Italian cuisine—though still no pizza.
August 30，2025
We joined a “free” walking tour of the historic center of Rio de Janeiro. Taking Metro Lines 4/1, we got off at Carioca Station, where the meeting point was just a short walk away. Our first impressions of the city were positive: the subway was clean and comfortable, and the streets were tidy and inviting.
The guide led us through several city blocks, with the tour ending at the grand Municipal Theater. Along the way, we picked up small but memorable facts—for example, “Carioca” means people from Rio. The guide also planted seeds for a future visit, such as recommending Café Colombo, considered one of the best cafés in the world.
After the tour, we treated ourselves to a cozy Brazilian restaurant, where we enjoyed several delicious local dishes. Energized, we continued on foot to our next destination: Rio de Janeiro Cathedral. While its pyramid-like exterior might appear “ugly” to some, the vast interior space, flooded with colorful stained light, was both powerful and inspiring.
From there, it was only a short walk to the Escadaria Selarón. This iconic staircase, decorated with a kaleidoscope of ceramic tiles from around the world, was buzzing with visitors snapping photos. It was easy to see why it’s one of Rio’s most beloved landmarks.
Later, we hopped back on the metro and headed to Leblon Beach. There we indulged in simple pleasures: people-watching, sipping fresh coconut water, coffee, and beer with the sound of the waves as our backdrop.
As evening settled in, we strolled back to our rental unit. For supper, we finally gave in to a supermarket pizza—a playful “broken promise,” since we had resisted pizza until now. Locals would have paired it with a bottle of wine, but for us it was just a light, easy meal.
We called it a day—a very good day. Rio had left us with a warm and lasting first impression.
二零二五年八月二十九日
在伊瓜苏巴西一侧，我们的旅馆离边境很近，开车没几分钟就到了，但离伊瓜苏市 (Foz do Iguaçu) 的市区和商业区还是有点距离。旅馆很简朴，有点像中国的农家乐。十几个客房在二楼，一楼是开放式停车场，一个小小的休息区和早餐厅。女主人非常热情，她就住在同一处院落里。昨晚从公园回来后，考虑到不想天黑在外面走，在女主人的推荐和帮助下我们点了一家日本餐厅的外卖，味道还算可以。今天早晨，女主人亲自下厨为客人们准备了早餐。我们今天不赶路，大家终于可以多睡会儿再好好吃顿早餐。
退房后，包车司机来接我们去机场。我们提前几小时抵达，惊喜地发现机场里有一家舒适的 Priority Pass 贵宾室。因为我们两人都持有会员卡，能带朋友一起进入。更巧的是，我们找到了一间可以容纳六个人的小房间，这样大家就能自在地用中文聊天而不用担心打扰别的客人。吃饱喝足上飞机，下一站里约热内卢。
回想起这次伊瓜苏大瀑布的旅程，真是完美：完美的天气，完美的环境，完美的接送服务。
飞机抵达里约热内卢后，我们在出口处遇到接送公司的工作人员。她带我们到等候区，我们通过 booking.com 预订的面包车很快就开了过来。因为车内没有放置行李的空间，司机把六个行李箱固定在车顶的行李架上。这让我们想起今年上半年在印度也有一次类似的经历。
车子往里约热内卢市区方向开去。没过多久，司机转进一家加油站，让我们先下车。一名工作人员打开车头盖，开始往车里灌注乙醇燃料。虽然他完全可以在来接我们之前就加好油，但这小小的插曲也让我们多了一份了解巴西日常生活的机会。之后的路程十分顺利。尽管我们在预订车时填错了门牌号，司机依然尽心确保把我们送到正确的地址。
我们的 Airbnb 公寓在莱布隆 (Leblon) 区，公寓在九楼，楼下有保安。安顿好之后，我们就去了楼下旁边的一家意大利餐厅享用晚餐。餐点丰盛美味，因为还在为前些天在布宜诺斯艾利斯的最后一顿披萨耿耿于怀，虽在意大利饭店，今晚依然没有点披萨。晚餐后我们走去附近一家超市买了各种水果。
二零二五年八月三十日
来巴西之前就一直听说这里治安不好，曾来过这里的好友也一再提醒要我们注意安全，保护好自己的随身物品。我们把Airbnb选择在莱布隆（Leblon)区也是出于对安全的考虑。另外我们决定在里约热内卢不坐公交车，而是坐地铁或Uber。
今天早上我们参加了一场里约热内卢历史中心的“免费”徒步游。乘坐地铁 4/1 号线，在 Carioca 站下车，集合点离地铁站不远。对这座城市的第一印象十分美好：地铁干净舒适，街道整洁宜人。
参加徒步游的人不少，大家来自世界各地。分成英语，葡萄牙语和西班牙语三组。导游带领我们穿过几条街区，讲述了许多关于城市的历史。途中我们也学到了一些有趣的知识，比如“Carioca”指的是里约人；她还让我们为未来几天的行程种了草——推荐了被誉为“世界上最好的咖啡馆”之一的科伦坡咖啡馆 (Café Colombo)。徒步行在宏伟的市政剧院 (Theatro Municipal) 前结束。
行程结束后，我们在附近找了一家温馨的巴西餐厅，点了几道地道的巴西菜，味道令人十分满足。随后我们步行前往下一个目的地——里约热内卢大教堂 (Catedral Metropolitana)。这座教堂的外观造型很独特，在一些人眼里或许很“丑陋”，但内部设计却极具震撼力，彩色玻璃透入的光线让整个空间显得很庄严。
接着我们继续步行来到塞拉隆台阶 (Escadaria Selarón)。这座由五彩瓷砖拼贴装饰的台阶，是里约热内卢最受欢迎的景点之一。到处都是游客拍照留念，热闹非凡，也难怪它会成为这座城市的地标。
下午，我们再次搭乘地铁前往莱布隆海滩 (Leblon Beach)。在海边，我们享受着最简单的乐趣：听着海浪的声音，看人来人往，喝新鲜的椰子汁、咖啡和啤酒，格外惬意。
傍晚时分，我们悠闲地散步回到住宿。晚餐就随意在超市买了二个现烤的披萨——算是一个“小小的破戒”，因为我们之前一直坚持不点披萨。当地人通常会配上一瓶红酒，而我们则以这份简单的餐食轻松结束一天。
Iguaçu Falls & Paraguay 巴西伊瓜苏瀑布与巴拉圭
August 28，2025
This morning we said goodbye to Argentina……
今天我们与阿根廷道别。。。
August 28，2025
This morning we said goodbye to Argentina. Our Argentine driver picked us up at 8:00 a.m. and drove us to the border. At the Argentine customs, we met our Brazilian driver who guided us through the exit process. There was no queue and the whole procedure took just five minutes, although we noticed a long line of cars and taxis waiting to cross. Once cleared, we transferred our luggage into a van and drove toward the Brazilian side. There, we had to step out and enter the customs building to get our passports stamped. Again, the process was quick and painless.
Afterward, we dropped our bags at our hotel near the border before heading directly to Iguaçu National Park on the Brazilian side. Being among the first tourists to enter, we boarded the park bus and rode to the trailhead.
The view was absolutely breathtaking. A massive wall of waterfalls stretched before us, roaring with energy. As we walked along the trail toward the platform extending to the Devil’s Throat viewpoint, rainbows arched above the mist and the spray soaked us through. Watching speedboats dart into the thundering falls, just as we had the day before, only heightened the drama.
No words could truly capture the experience of seeing so many cascades and rainbows all in one place—it was unforgettable.
After the hike, we settled for a simple lunch of fish and chips on a terrace with a distant view of the falls. The Brazilian park is much smaller than the Argentine side, and most visitors can explore it comfortably in three to four hours.
At 1:30 p.m., our driver returned to take us across yet another border—into Paraguay. Once we realized Paraguay was just a bridge away, we had contacted Iguazufalls.Travel to add it to our itinerary. Because of the country’s low sales taxes, many Brazilians cross over to shop in modern malls near the border. With an open day-trip policy, our driver simply drove us across the congested bridge without customs checks.
Instead of shopping, we continued 15 kilometers inland to visit Monday Falls. Although marvelous in its own right—comparable perhaps to Huangguoshu Waterfall (黄果树大瀑布) in China—it felt like a miniature compared to the grandeur of Iguazú. Still, the peaceful park, nearly empty of tourists, gave us time to enjoy the cascades at our own pace.
On the way back, we stopped at a shopping mall for local ice cream, beer, and coffee, celebrating the thrill of adding a new country to our journey.
二零二五年八月二十八日
今天我们与阿根廷道别。在旅馆吃了早餐，八点司机准时来接，送我们到边境。我们选用的包车公司阿根廷和巴西二边的服务真是无缝衔接。公司在巴西的包车司机在阿根廷海关迎接我们，他详细告知我们如何办理出境手续。因为我们是包车，几乎没有排队，仅五分钟就完成过境。但我们看到自驾车和出租车过境却排起了长队。
换上巴西司机的车后，我们过桥进入巴西一侧，美国公民进巴西需要提前申请签证。下车进海关盖上入境章，手续同样简便顺利。接着先把行李放到今晚入住的旅馆，然后司机载着我们直奔巴西一侧的伊瓜苏国家公园。
我们是最早入园的一批游客，搭上公园的双层巴士来到步道口。巨大的瀑布群扑面而来，轰鸣如雷，水雾弥漫。沿着步道走到魔鬼喉观景平台，眼前是汹涌的水流和缤纷的彩虹。由于步道修建得极其接近瀑布，我们全身湿透，但这种“身临其境”的体验非常震撼无以言表。瀑布与彩虹交织的画面，令人屏息，永远留在记忆中。
结束徒步后，我们在瀑布上面的露台上享用简单的炸鱼，炸鸡和薯条午餐，远眺瀑布。相比阿根廷一侧，巴西公园面积更小，通常三到四小时就能游览完毕。
下午一点半，司机再次来接我们，载着我们跨过另一条国界——进入巴拉圭。前几天得知它只隔一座大桥，我们临时决定增加这一站。这又是包车的好处，包车公司可以按照我们的要求随时作调整。司机告诉我们巴拉圭这里因低税率而成为巴西人的购物天堂，边境一带遍布现代化商场。一日游开放政策两岸人员自由来往，无需通关。
到达巴拉圭后，我们没有停留购物，而是驱车15 公里前往“星期一瀑布”。瀑布本身壮丽，或许堪比中国的黄果树瀑布，但与伊瓜苏相比只能算“小字辈”。园区内游客稀少，几乎被我们“包场”，反而倍感惬意。
返程途中，我们决定在边境旁的巴拉圭商场小憩，尝了当地的冰淇淋、啤酒和咖啡，为旅途中意外多踏足一个新国家举杯庆祝。
Iguazú Falls 阿根廷伊瓜苏瀑布
August 27, 2025
After a hearty breakfast, our driver met us promptly at 8 a.m……
在享用过丰盛的早餐后，包车司机准时在早上 8 点来到旅大堂接我们。。。
August 27, 2025
After a hearty breakfast, our driver met us promptly at 8 a.m. in the lodge lobby and drove us to the entrance of Iguazú National Park on the Argentine side. Thanks to arriving early and having purchased tickets online, we breezed through the gates without delay.
Our adventure began with Gran Aventura, a thrilling combination of a jungle truck ride and a speedboat journey up the Iguazú River. The boat roared straight into the spray beneath several mighty cascades, including San Martín and Tres Mosqueteros. From the river, the view of the waterfalls was absolutely breathtaking—walls of water crashing all around us. Within minutes we were completely drenched, as if caught under a giant natural shower.
Back on land, we changed into dry clothes and walked over to the train station for the trip to Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo). Even though the ride is included in the park admission, we still had to pick up tickets for specific time slots. With an hour to spare, we grabbed a simple lunch—though we quickly realized we were not alone. Mischievous monkeys and bold coatis swarmed the picnic area, constantly scheming to snatch tourists food. We had to sit inside the wired cage to protect us. At times it felt as if we were the ones inside the zoo enclosure, watching them poke their paws through the wire mesh to steal a bite. Amusing and chaotic, it turned lunch into quite a show.
The train eventually dropped us at the trailhead for Devil’s Throat. The walkway stretched across shimmering wetlands, leading us to a massive platform directly above the roaring chasm. Although the trail itself was only about 1.4 miles long, it took us two hours to complete, as we lingered at every turn for photos of the magnificent panorama. Standing at the edge, with spray rising like smoke from the thunderous gorge, was nothing short of awe-inspiring.
After returning by train to the central station, we set out on both the Upper Circuit and Lower Circuit trails. Each offered unique perspectives of the waterfalls, equally stunning in their own way. Losing track of time, we messaged our driver to extend pickup by an hour—a luxury of having private transportation. That extra time allowed us to soak in the park’s beauty without rushing.
Back at the lodge, we rested briefly before heading into town for dinner. At Aqva Restaurant, we savored one final indulgence in Argentine cuisine, raising a toast to a day filled with adventure, nature, and unforgettable memories.
二零二五年八月二十七日
在享用过丰盛的早餐后，包车司机准时在早上 8 点来到旅大堂接我们，驱车前往阿根廷一侧的伊瓜苏国家公园 (Iguazú National Park)。因为到得早，又提前在网上买好了门票，我们顺利而快捷地进入了园区。
我们的行程从 Gran Aventura 开始，我们也是提前在网上买好了票。这是一项结合丛林卡车与快艇冲锋的探险项目。去看瀑布之前，与朋友们一起讨论是否要参加坐船冲瀑布（阿根廷）还是坐船看瀑布（巴西），最后大家一致认为要体验一下更刺激阿根廷边的坐船冲瀑布。丛林卡车带着我们来到水边，每人发一个防水袋将自己的物品放入其中。快艇逆流而上，没多久便来到瀑布前，先转着让大家看看，然后就直接冲入圣马丁瀑布 (San Martín) 和三剑客瀑布 (Tres Mosqueteros) 的水雾之中。瀑布如白色巨墙般从天而降，气势磅礴，令人震撼。不到几分钟，我们就被彻底淋透，好似置身于大自然的豪华淋浴间。
回到岸上换好衣服后，我们走到小火车站，准备前往著名的魔鬼喉 (Devil’s Throat / Garganta del Diablo)。虽然车程已包含在门票里，但仍需领取对应时段的车票。在等待的一小时里，我们随便吃了点午餐，却被一群“捣蛋鬼”打扰——调皮的猴子和大胆的南美浣熊 (coatis) 四处徘徊，伺机抢夺游客的食物。为了安全，公园专门设置了铁丝网围起的大笼子让游客用餐，坐在里面仿佛成了动物园里的“展品”。那些南美浣熊很有攻击性，甚至会伸爪穿过铁网来偷食，闹剧般的场面既混乱又充满笑料。
小火车最终将我们送到魔鬼喉步道的起点。全程约 2.2 公里 (1.4 英里，往返) 的栈道横跨湿地，通向巨大的观景平台，俯瞰轰鸣的深壑。虽然路不长，但我们足足走了两个小时，因为一路上不停驻足拍照。站在平台边缘，瀑布水雾翻腾，宛如白烟冲天，声势震撼，令人屏息凝神。
返回中心车站后，我们又走了两条环线步道。上环线 (Upper Circuit，1.75 公里 / 1.1 英里) 提供居高临下的全景视角，而 下环线 (Lower Circuit，2.7 公里 / 1.7 英里) 则蜿蜒深入瀑布脚下，带来更加直接的震撼感。两条步道各有特色，同样令人惊叹。因流连忘返，我们只好给司机发讯息，将预定接我们的时间延后一小时——包车的灵活性尽显无疑。
回到旅馆稍作休息后，我们傍晚出门走到镇上，在 Aqva 饭店享用丰盛的晚餐。这是我们此行最后一次品尝阿根廷美食，我们举杯庆祝这一天的探险与奇景，也为阿根廷之行的圆满结束而干杯。
Hito Tres Fronteras 三国交界点
August 26, 2025
We had fallen in love with Buenos Aires,……
布宜诺斯艾利斯，这座城市优雅的建筑与干净整洁的街道令人着迷。。。
August 26, 2025
We had fallen in love with Buenos Aires, with its elegant architecture and clean, vibrant streets. Over five days, we fully embraced the city’s extensive bus system, hopping on and off like locals. At first, we were puzzled whenever drivers asked us something we didn’t understand—only later did we realize they were asking where we would get off so they could charge the correct fare. Instead, we were always charged the maximum price. Another discovery came too late: if we had registered our SUBE card, we would have received significant discounts. Valuable lessons for a future visit.
Our flight to Puerto Iguazú was smooth and lasted just over an hour. Upon arrival, we spotted a driver outside the terminal holding a paper with my name—our prearranged pickup. For our time in Iguazú, rather than joining group tours, we decided to hire Iguazufalls.Travel to provide private transportation. This proved to be both affordable and flexible.
Our driver led us to a comfortable van and soon dropped us at our hotel for the next two nights, the Iguazú Jungle Lodge. Nestled on the outskirts of Puerto Iguazú, the lodge felt more like a resort than a hotel, with every room facing dense jungle and dotted with small waterfalls. After settling in, we walked into town for a hearty lunch featuring Argentina’s famous steak.
In the afternoon, we continued our journey to Hito Tres Fronteras, the point where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet, separated by the flowing rivers. Standing at the landmark, we could see across the borders, a symbolic spot where three nations share a single view.
From there, we strolled back to the lodge and enjoyed a lovely dinner. We went to bed filled with anticipation—tomorrow, we would finally see the mighty Iguazú Falls.
二零二五年八月二十六日
布宜诺斯艾利斯，这座城市优雅的建筑与干净整洁的街道令人着迷。五天里，我们充分体验了便捷的公交系统，几乎和当地人一样自由穿梭在城市的各个角落。来布宜诺斯艾利斯之后我们每天都要坐几趟公交车，交通卡有过几次刷卡时变负值，终于在最后一天才搞明白为什么。有时候上车刷卡时司机会对我们叽哩咕噜说西班牙语，让我们感到困惑。后来才明白，他们其实是想知道我们在哪里下车，好按距离收取正确的车费。因为听不懂无法回答，我们总是被收取最高票价。这也是为什么卡上的钱总比我们预期的用得快。因为买SUBE卡时除了交通费，还有一部分是卡本身的定金，所以上车刷到一定的负值也是可以的。另一个遗憾的发现是，如果提前注册 SUBE 卡，就能享受不少折扣。只能留待下次再访时改进了。
昨晚被临时换机场一事搞得心惊胆颤，天没亮就起床，预订的Uber准时来接我们。在航空公司柜台确认值机且拿了打印的登机牌，过安检后终于在候机厅里安心地吃了顿早餐。
飞往伊瓜苏港（Puerto Iguazú）的航班平稳顺利，仅一个多小时。抵达后，我们在航站楼外看到一位男士手举写有我名字的纸牌，他正是我们预约的接机司机。为了在伊瓜苏的几天能更加灵活自在，我们没有选择跟团，而是聘请了 Iguazufalls.Travel 提供私人交通服务，事实证明既经济又方便。
司机把我们送到 Iguazú Jungle Lodge。这家旅馆坐落在小镇边缘，四周被浓密的热带雨林包围，房间面向绿意盎然的丛林，还点缀着小瀑布。它更像是一处静谧的度假村，而非普通酒店。安顿好后，我们步行到镇中心，享用了一顿丰盛的午餐，当然少不了阿根廷最地道的牛排。
下午，我们前往三国交界点（Hito Tres Fronteras）。在这里，阿根廷、巴西和巴拉圭三国以河流分界，三方在此交汇。站在纪念碑旁极目远眺，可以同时望见三国，这是一个充满象征意义的地点。之后，我们慢慢走回旅馆，在旅馆的餐厅里享受了一顿非常惬意的晚餐。
夜幕降临，我们带着满心期待入睡——明天，将迎来此行最令人激动的时刻：壮丽的伊瓜苏大瀑布。
Street Art, Chinatown, and Puerto Madero 街头艺术、中国城与普埃尔托马德罗
August 25, 2025
Early in the morning, Chenggang stepped out by himself to the small café next door,……
在布宜诺斯艾利斯待了几天后，。。。
August 25, 2025
Early in the morning, Chenggang stepped out by himself to the small café next door, enjoying two medialunas and a cup of coffee with milk — a simple yet delightful local breakfast that cots $4.
After several days in Buenos Aires, we felt we had checked off most of the must-see sights. Today was our last full day in the city, with plans to explore the Palermo area, have lunch in Chinatown, and end the day with a leisurely stroll through Puerto Madero.
Palermo is both a high-end residential and commercial district, but it is also known for having some of the best street art in the city. We rode the bus there and spent the morning wandering its streets, admiring colorful murals and creative designs painted across walls and buildings.
Afterwards we took another bus to Chinatown. Since it was Monday, many restaurants were closed, but we managed to find one open spot serving decent dim sum.
In the afternoon, we headed to Puerto Madero, the modern waterfront district, and spent a few hours walking along the docks and soaking up our final impressions of the city.
That evening we enjoyed a simple homemade dinner back at our rental, chatting and packing for tomorrow’s departure. Chenggang tired out Mate tea set he bought in the market yesterday.
Late at night, one of our friends translated an email we had all received earlier from JetSmart in Spanish, only to discover that due to a strike, our departure had been switched to a different airport. Thankfully, they woke everyone up in time, and we quickly rebooked our Uber to the new airport. We couldn’t imagine what would have happened if we had shown up at the wrong one.
二零二五年八月二十五日
在布宜诺斯艾利斯待了几天后，我们觉得大多数必看景点都已经打卡了。今天是我们在这座城市的最后一整天，计划先去 巴勒莫 (Palermo) 区走走，然后到 中国城 (Chinatown) 吃午餐，最后去普埃尔托马德罗 (Puerto Madero) 逛逛。
巴勒莫既是高档的住宅和商业区，同时也是欣赏街头艺术的最佳地点。我们乘公交前往，在街区间随意闲逛，欣赏着五彩斑斓、充满创意的壁画与涂鸦。
之后我们又坐车来到 中国城。因为是星期一，大部分餐馆都关门了，但我们还是找到了一家营业的餐馆，吃到了还不错的广式早茶。
下午，我们去了普埃尔托马德罗，这座现代化的滨水区是城市的另一张面孔，我们在那里走了几个小时，也品尝了当地的冰淇淋和咖啡，享受在布宜诺斯艾利斯最后的时光。
傍晚回到住处，我们做了一顿简单的家常晚餐，边吃边聊天，并开始整理行李，为明天的离开做准备。深夜时，同行的一位朋友把大家之前都收到但忽略的来自JetSmart航空的西班牙语邮件翻译出来，才发现由于罢工，明天一早的航班起飞机场临时改到了另一个机场。幸好朋友及时发现，把大家都叫醒。我们赶紧重新预订了去新机场的 Uber。新机场很远，我们必须更早出发。真不敢想象如果去了错误的机场，会是怎样一番局面。 几天来我们常开玩笑，说这位同行的朋友是我们的福星，每次有他在总能帮我们化险为宜，今天再次证明了这一点。
La Boca, San Telmo Market, and Werther 拉博卡、圣特尔莫市场与《维尔特》
August 24， 2025
Today we visited the most colorful street in Buenos Aires — Caminito in La Boca……
今天一早我们坐公交车来到了布宜诺斯艾利斯最色彩斑斓的街道。。。
August 24， 2025
Today we visited the most colorful street in Buenos Aires — Caminito in La Boca. Unlike the quiet early morning scene yesterday, the area was now alive with tourists, open shops, and music in the air. Famous for its brightly painted houses, street tango performances, craft stalls, and lively cafés, Caminito exuded vibrant energy and unmistakable charm.
From there we took the bus to San Telmo for the weekly Sunday market. The long street was packed with vendors, booths, locals, and tourists, creating a vivid scene of bustling city life.
After arriving in Buenos Aires, we noticed many locals carrying a cup filled with tea leaves and a metal straw, often accompanied by a thermos of hot water. Some even carried special bags just for their mate set. On the ferry yesterday we learned this is mate tea, a beloved tradition throughout South America. At the market today, we were drawn to a booth selling mate cups and accessories, and we bought a set engraved with our names.
We also stepped into the San Telmo indoor market, which was much livelier than two days ago when we arrived too late. This time every café was packed, and finding seats for six was nearly impossible. Instead of sampling different stalls, we waited for a table at La Choripanería, a highly recommended spot inside the market, and shared a traditional Argentine platter that included black sausage.
After lunch we walked to the museum of the Casa Rosada (Pink House) to learn more about this significant national landmark. We then stopped by the Obelisco de Buenos Aires, the city’s most iconic monument built in 1936 to celebrate the 400th anniversary. Standing tall at the intersection of Avenida 9 de Julio and Avenida Corrientes, it made the perfect backdrop for a group photo before we continued on to the Teatro Colón.
In the evening, we attended the opera Werther at the Teatro Colón, one of the world’s great opera houses. Since all the seats were sold out, we managed to get standing tickets, which still gave us the chance to enjoy the performance in this magnificent venue. Massenet’s Werther, based on Goethe’s The Sorrows of Young Werther, tells the tragic story of a poet destroyed by unrequited love. The world-class performance, combined with the theater’s remarkable acoustics, made it truly unforgettable. Although the opera ran for more than three hours, we decided to leave after the second intermission.
We ended the day walking through the lively theater district and had dinner at Pizzería Güerrín, the most famous pizza place in the city. The thick, cheesy pizza was heavy, and even the classic Buenos Aires twist of pairing it with a slice of chickpea flatbread (fainá) wasn’t to our taste. We didn’t finish and took the leftovers home, all agreeing that this would be our last pizza stop of the trip.
拉博卡、圣特尔莫市场与《维尔特》
二零二五年八月二十四日
今天一早我们坐公交车来到了布宜诺斯艾利斯最色彩斑斓的街道——拉博卡 (La Boca) 的 卡米尼托 (Caminito)。这里以五颜六色的房屋、街头探戈表演、手工艺摊位和热闹的小餐馆而闻名，充满活力与独特魅力。我们去的早，游客还不算太多。
随后我们乘公交来到 圣特尔莫 (San Telmo)，赶上了每周一次的周日集市。整条街道被摊贩，本地人和游客挤得水泄不通，热闹非凡。
自从抵达布宜诺斯艾利斯，我们就常看到当地人手里端着一个杯子，里面是茶叶和金属吸管，另外还带着热水瓶，有的甚至配着专门的茶具袋。昨天在渡轮上我们才知道，这是南美盛行的 马黛茶 (Mate)。今天在市场上被一个售卖茶具的摊位吸引，我买下了一套马黛茶具，商家当场在茶杯上刻上我的姓氏。
我们还走进了圣特尔莫室内市场。两天前晚上来时很冷清，大部分已关门，而今天却人声鼎沸，走路都必须人推人。市场里的小餐馆几乎都客满，六个人想找座位极为困难。于是我们放弃了逐个小摊品尝的想法，选择在一家口碑很好的小餐馆 La Choripanería 等位。短暂等待后终于入座，我们点了几份餐馆的特色菜包括一份传统的阿根廷拼盘，其中有黑血肠。
午餐后，我们步行前往 玫瑰宫 (Casa Rosada) 博物馆，了解这座布宜诺斯艾利斯最具代表性的地标。随后来到 布宜诺斯艾利斯方尖碑 (Obelisco de Buenos Aires)。这座纪念碑建于 1936 年，为庆祝建城 400 周年而建。我们在此拍下合影后，继续走向 科隆剧院 (Teatro Colón)。
晚上，我们在科隆剧院观看歌剧 《维特》(Werther)。来阿根廷前我们就上网买票，由于座位全部售罄，我们买了站票，有机会在这座世界一流的歌剧院中欣赏演出。歌剧《维特》改编自歌德的小说《少年维特之烦恼》，讲述了一位诗人因单恋而走向毁灭的悲剧。虽然听不懂，但世界级的表演与剧院无与伦比的音响效果相得益彰，使这次体验难以忘怀。
一天的行程在热闹的剧院区画下句点。我们来到布宜诺斯艾利斯最著名的披萨店 Pizzería Güerrín 用餐。厚重多芝士的披萨相当油腻，即便搭配上当地经典的 鹰嘴豆饼 (fainá) 却不合我们的口味。没吃完的部分我们打包带走，并一致决定这将是此行最后一次尝试披萨。
Uruguay and Tango Show 乌拉圭与探戈之夜
August 23, 2025
Although we had only been in Buenos Aires for two days,……
在布宜诺斯艾利斯 (Buenos Aires) 仅停留两天后，。。。
August 23, 2025
Although we had only been in Buenos Aires for two days, we were eager to add a new stamp to our travel memories and set out on a day trip to Uruguay. To reach the ferry terminal, we took buses with a transfer at La Boca, saving ourselves a 30-minute walk through an unfamiliar neighborhood.
The check-in process and customs at the terminal were smooth and efficient. After a quick breakfast of coffee and croissants, we boarded the 10:30 am Colonia Express ferry. The crossing over the Río de la Plata lasted about an hour and fifteen minutes, carrying us across the wide, brown waters to the shores of Uruguay.
In Colonia del Sacramento, we strolled leisurely through the old town, admiring its cobblestone streets, colonial-era houses, and sweeping coastal views. The town’s tranquil atmosphere set a gentle pace for the day. After a pleasant lunch, we continued exploring until it was time to return.
Back at the ferry terminal, however, we discovered that check-in time was one hour prior to departure—not forty minutes as suggested by ChatGPT. At first, the staff was reluctant to let us through, but after we explained we had an evening event planned, they kindly made an exception, even allowing us to bypass the security line. A fellow passenger later helped us pass through passport control quickly, and in the end we boarded with plenty of time to spare.
The ferry brought us back to Buenos Aires around 6 pm. This time, we chose to walk through the neighborhood to reach the bus stop and return to our rental. For dinner, the group split tastes: while the ladies prepared vegetarian dishes, the men insisted on meat. A quick trip across the street to the butcher shop yielded two ribeye steaks and two breaded chicken fillets. Together with homemade tomato soup and fresh vegetables, the meal turned into a hearty feast.
Later, we dressed up slightly and set out for a tango show. We had booked the “show plus drink” option, without dinner, and worried our seats might be poor since dinner guests were seated two hours earlier. To our surprise, the six of us were placed right in front of the stage. With red wine and Argentine appetizers in hand, we spent the evening captivated by the intensity and elegance of tango.
After midnight, we caught the bus back to our accommodation. By now, moving around Buenos Aires by bus and on foot felt safe and surprisingly comfortable, closing the day with both adventure and cultural immersion.
二零二五年八月二十三日
在布宜诺斯艾利斯 (Buenos Aires) 仅停留两天后，我们便迫不及待地想为旅程增添新的印记，前往邻国乌拉圭 (Uruguay) 来一个一日游。为了到达渡轮码头，我们选择乘坐公交车并在拉博卡 (La Boca) 转车，省去了穿越陌生街区的 30 分钟步行。
码头的值机和海关手续井然有序，出奇地高效。在候船厅内享用了一份咖啡与羊角面包作为早餐后，我们登上了Colonia Express 渡轮。船只缓缓驶入拉普拉塔河 (Río de la Plata)，褐色而宽阔的河面在阳光下泛着微光，一个多小时后便抵达乌拉圭。
我们走进这座始建于 1680 年的古镇——科洛尼亚·德尔·萨克拉门托 (Colonia del Sacramento)。历史城区 (Barrio Histórico) 的鹅卵石小路与低矮房屋，展现出葡萄牙与西班牙交织的独特风情。漫步在 叹息街 (Calle de los Suspiros) ，走进圣礼大教堂 (Basilica del Santísimo Sacramento)，处处弥漫着宁静而古朴的气息。街边偶尔停放的古董汽车，更为这座古城增添了一份怀旧的韵味。
中午在小镇享用了当地的美食后，我们沿着河畔长廊悠然散步，远眺拉普拉塔河 (Río de la Plata) 的宽阔水面，心境也随之开阔。路过一家饭店，被户外现场音乐表演吸引。爱跳舞的同伴情不自禁地随着歌声跳了起来，不一会儿他身后便跟上了一串游客，最后Connie 也加入，大家随着音乐兴高彩烈地绕圈圈，气氛一时达到高潮。
返程时遇到了个小插曲——来到渡轮公司前台取票时才被告知渡轮的值机需在出发前一小时完成，而不是 ChatGPT 提示的 40 分钟。工作人员起初不愿放行，所幸的是在听到我们解释晚上有重要安排后，允许我们通过，还让我们免去安检的长队。随后，一位好心的乘客又在海关护照检查时帮忙让我们走当地人的通道。最终我们顺利登船。
傍晚六点，我们再次回到布宜诺斯艾利斯。这一次，我们选择穿过街区步行至公交站，坐公交车返回住处。晚餐女士们忙于准备素食，男士们无肉不欢，走到街对面的肉铺，买回两块肉眼牛排和两块裹粉鸡排。搭配自制的番茄汤和新鲜蔬菜，这顿丰盛的晚餐让人心满意足。
稍作休息后，我们前往观看探戈表演。在来阿根廷之前我们就已买好了票。原本担心因为只选择了“表演加饮品”的票而非包晚餐票，会被安排在不佳的位置，毕竟晚餐客人提前两小时就入座了。没想到我们六人竟被安排在舞台正前方。红酒在杯中荡漾，阿根廷小食散发着浓郁香气。台上舞者的步伐如火焰般热烈、如流水般优雅。整个夜晚，我们完全沉浸在探戈的魅力之中。
Asado and Cemetery 吃烤肉看陵园
August 22, 2025
Argentina’s Asado is world-famous, and Don Julio is consistently ranked……
阿根廷的烤肉名扬世界，而 Don Julio 则是其中的传奇。。。
August 22, 2025
Argentina’s Asado is world-famous, and Don Julio is consistently ranked among the top 101 steakhouses in the world, even holding a Michelin star. Securing a reservation was no easy task. After many emails back and forth, we finally managed to book two separate tables (one for two people, another for four) with outdoor seating for lunch.
We arrived at the restaurant around 11:00 a.m., waiting for the doors to open. Its popularity was immediately clear as the line outside grew quickly. In true Don Julio tradition, the staff welcomed those waiting with glasses of champagne, freshly fried empanadas, and small cups of pumpkin soup—a gracious gesture before anyone even sat down. Eventually, our group was seated together inside.
We ordered several vegetable sides along with spiral sausages, skirt steak, and ribeye steak. The service was impeccable—attentive yet relaxed. While we felt the food itself might not have been the single best steak we had ever tasted, the overall experience—the lively atmosphere, warm hospitality, and sense of occasion—was extraordinary and well worth the effort to dine here.
After lunch, we strolled to the Recoleta Cemetery for a paid guided tour ($10 per person). This historic site is one of Buenos Aires’ must-see landmarks. Our very knowledgable guide shared fascinating stories that brought the cemetery to life. It may sound unusual from a Chinese perspective to describe a cemetery as beautiful, yet the visit was both moving and deeply informative.
We finished the afternoon at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Buenos Aires Museum of Fine Arts) before taking the city bus back to our Airbnb rental, ending a day that blended food, history, and culture in perfect balance.
二零二五年八月二十二日
阿根廷的烤肉（asado）名扬世界，而 Don Julio 则是其中的传奇，不仅常年位列全球101牛排馆之一，还荣获米其林一星。为了能在这里用餐，我们提前经过各种努力终于订到两张午餐的户外座位——一张两人桌，一张四人桌。为了希望能坐到室内，我们提前半小时在上午11点便抵达饭店，排队第二，等待开门。队伍很快就排得很长，服务员给等待的每位客人送上送上一杯香槟酒、一只现炸馅饼和一小杯热腾腾的南瓜汤，热情且有仪式感。与领班商量后我们还如愿以偿被安排在室内且六人同桌而坐。我们点了几道蔬菜配菜，以及饭店的经典烤肉包括螺旋香肠、牛裙肉和肉眼牛排，要了一瓶来自Mendoza 的红酒分享。服务无可挑剔，非常周到。虽然牛排本身未必是我们吃过的最佳，但整体氛围与体验令人难忘，足以不负“世界名店”之名。
午餐后，我们步行前往雷科莱塔公墓（Recoleta Cemetery）。这座庄严宁静的墓园是布宜诺斯艾利斯的必访之地。买了门票，又参加了徒步讲解游览。导游不仅介绍了这里安葬的几位总统、将领，以及举世闻名的第一夫人 Eva Perón，还分享了许多普通人的动人故事。或许在中国文化里，把公墓称为美丽并不常见，但这次参观确实让人印象深刻。
接着我们参观了阿根廷国家美术馆 （Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes)。慢悠悠在美术馆欣赏够了之后我们才坐公交车去到San Telmo Market，准备在那里吃晚饭。走进market 发现大部分店家开始收摊关门了，于是在market附近随便找了家披萨店。味道相当不错，大家一致认为比美国的好吃。一天的行程紧凑，在美食、历史与艺术之间找到了完美的平衡。
再次乘坐公交车返回 民舍，当上车刷到四个人时，发现卡上余额已是负值，到了最后一人时，已不让刷卡了，但热心的驾驶员却一挥手让我们过了。但我们大家却是满脸疑惑地坐回住处。
First Glimpse of Buenos Aires 布宜诺斯艾利斯的第一眼
Auguster 20-21, 2025
Our journey to Argentina began with a nerve-racking twist……
我们的阿根廷之旅一开始就充满波折。。。
Auguster 20-21, 2025
Our journey to Argentina began with a nerve-racking twist. The flight to Atlanta was diverted to Nashville due to weather-related airport closures. After refueling, the plane returned to Atlanta with a two-hour delay, leaving us just 15 minutes to make our connection to Buenos Aires. We sprinted off the plane at the far end of Concourse A and raced toward the train stop. Deep down, we doubted we would make it — the flight was even listed as departing five minutes early — but we refused to give up.
Just as we reached the train, an update came through: the Buenos Aires flight was delayed, first by 15 minutes, then by 40. Hope returned. By the time we reached the gate, we found many other passengers waiting; like us, several had been diverted to other cities before making it back. In hindsight, we realized a simple check — whether boarding had actually begun — could have saved some stress. In the end, the flight departed two hours late. Relieved, we finally boarded and set off for Argentina.
Upon arrival in Buenos Aires, we grabbed a quick $10 lunch for the six of us before walking toward the National Congress. Just as we approached, our tour guide sent a WhatsApp message warning of a demonstration in front of the building and asked us to meet three blocks away. Passing by, we caught sight of a large but peaceful protest under heavy police presence.
To our surprise, we turned out to be the only group on the walking tour, which made the experience feel personal. The guide led us through some of the city’s most iconic landmarks: the Barolo Palace, Avenida de Mayo, Café Tortoni, the Pink House, and the Metropolitan Cathedral.
That evening, we returned to Café Tortoni for dinner, sharing a ham-and-cheese board, salads, and sandwiches. While enjoying the simple food, we watched tango dancers glide across the café floor — our first taste of Argentina’s vibrant culture. Then we tried to figure out how to buy a SUBE card so we could take the bus back to our rental.
Buenos Aires has a very extensive and affordable public bus system. Since we were a group of six, taking the bus was actually more convenient than splitting into two separate ride-sharing cars, such as Uber. To use the bus, however, a physical SUBE card is required.
After our tour, we tried to withdraw local currency from Western Union as planned, but without success. While searching for other options to exchange money, we unexpectedly ran into our tour guide on the street again. Realizing our situation, he later called to check if we still needed cash and eventually took us to a small flower shop. Our brave friend went inside alone with the shop owner and successfully exchanged money at a fairly good rate.
With pesos finally in hand, we stopped at a convenience store and bought a SUBE card for the group — which can only be purchased with cash — and then happily rode the bus for the first time.
2025年8月20-21日
我们的阿根廷 (Argentina) 之旅一开始就充满波折。飞往亚特兰大 (Atlanta) 的航班因天气改降到纳什维尔 (Nashville)，达美甚至改签我们到第二天。幸运的是，飞机最终回到亚特兰大，但只剩15分钟转机时间。我们拖着行李从 A 航站楼狂奔至最远的 F 航站楼，在小火车上收到航班延误的消息，终于赶上了飞往布宜诺斯艾利斯 (Buenos Aires) 的飞机。虽然再次延误两个小时，但我们总算顺利启程。
抵达布市后，预订的出租车接我们到民宿，我们六个人只花了10美元就解决了一顿简单的午餐。随后参加始于国会大厦 (National Congress) 附近的”南美巴黎＂徒步游，却因示威临时改在三条街外集合。游行虽然规模不小，但气氛平和，警力密集。这次历时二小时的徒步之旅 (walking tour) 就我们六个人，变成私人导游了。导游带我们走过巴罗洛宫 (Barolo Palace)、五月大道 (Avenida de Mayo)、托托尼咖啡馆 (Café Tortoni)、粉红宫 (Pink House) 和大教堂 (Metropolitan Cathedral)。
夜晚，我们回到托托尼咖啡馆 (Café Tortoni)，点了火腿芝士拼盘、沙拉和三明治。在悠扬乐声中欣赏舞者的探戈 (tango)，第一次亲身感受阿根廷文化的魅力。
布宜诺斯艾利斯拥有非常广泛且价格低廉的公交系统。由于我们一行六人，乘坐公交反而比分乘两辆共享单车（如 Uber）更方便。不过，要乘坐公交，必须先办一张实体的 SUBE 卡。
因为行程之前就被告知最好不要在阿根廷从ATM上取现金，昨天观光结束后，我们原本打算去西联汇款取现金，可惜折腾了二次都没有成功。当我们在街头继续四处寻找兑换现金的地方时，竟意外再次遇见了下午的导游。得知我们的困境后，说可以帮忙并带我们走进了一家不起眼的花店。我们那位勇敢的朋友独自跟店主进了后面的小屋，把美元换成了厚厚的一叠比索，且拿到了一个相当不错的汇率。有了现金，我们随即前往一家便利店，顺利买到 SUBE 卡——这卡只能用现金购买，可以多人共享。拿到卡的那一刻，仿佛打开了通往城市的新大门。很快我们六人就兴奋地刷卡上了公交车，虽然语言不通，却满怀新鲜与喜悦跟着当地人一起穿梭在布宜诺斯艾利斯的大街小巷。
Colorado in July 七月里的科罗拉多
Aug. 16-28, 2025
On the morning of July 16, we loaded our car and headed to Durango……
7月16日早晨，我们装好行李，驾车前往杜兰戈（Durango）。。。
Aug. 16-28, 2025
On the morning of July 16, we loaded our car and headed to Durango. With several breaks along the way, we spent almost ten hours on the road. We arrived at our Airbnb rental in Durango around 6:00 PM—perfect timing to join our friends, who had arrived a bit earlier and had already started making dinner together.
On July 17, our first adventure took us to Castle Rock via the Elbert Creek Trail. The weather was cool and pleasant, and wildflowers blanketed the landscape in vibrant color. The trail offered breathtaking views but proved to be quite challenging, with a continuous ascent and descent and very few flat sections. At the summit, we paused to enjoy our prepared sandwiches while taking in the sweeping scenery. The hike totaled approximately 5.6 miles round-trip, with an elevation gain of about 1,700 feet.
On July 18, we set out for the Ice Lake Trail, considered one of the best hikes in the San Juan National Forest near Silverton. Due to its popularity, the parking lot was already full when we arrived in the morning, so we parked along the roadside. Park rangers briefed us on weather safety before we began. The sky was overcast, and it soon began to rain. Despite the weather, we enjoyed the hike as we ascended the trail. About halfway up, just as we emerged from the forest, a loud clap of thunder echoed overhead. Since the rest of the trail was above the tree line, we made the cautious decision to turn back. Although some of us were hesitant to give up, safety came first. We covered about 3.5 miles in total.
After lunch back at the trailhead, we took a short 1-mile walk to visit nearby waterfalls, which were scenic and well worth the detour. Later, we headed to Silverton, where we spent a relaxed afternoon strolling through the charming old western town and treating ourselves to some well-earned ice cream.
On July 19, we enjoyed two easier but equally rewarding hikes. The first was to Cascade Creek Falls, a short 0.8-mile trail that includes steep inclines and occasional rocky stretches. The waterfall was especially picturesque. We followed that with a longer hike on the Cascade Creek Trail, an easy 4.2-mile route that winds through meadows full of wildflowers and crosses gentle streams. It offered a peaceful walk through forests and open landscapes, rounding out our day with beautiful scenery and a relaxed pace.
On July 20, we said farewell to our friends and continued our journey to Granby, Colorado. The drive from our Airbnb in Durango to WorldMark by Wyndham in Granby took about six hours, with a small portion of it on a gravel road. We were surprised that a main route serving Granby—one of the key towns near Rocky Mountain National Park—still included unpaved sections. After the long and tiring drive, we were too exhausted to do any activities and simply did some grocery shopping and spent the rest of the day relaxing at the resort.
July 21, it’s a perfect day for outdoor activities. We hiked the Monarch Lake Loop (4 miles) near Grand Lake. The trail is well-known and scenic, but reaching the trailhead was an adventure in itself. The gravel road leading there was so rough that we had to drive as slow as 5 miles per hour. Once at the trail, we found it well-marked and easy to follow. Along the way, we passed by yet another Cascade Creek, and we couldn’t help but wonder just how many “Cascade Creeks” exist in Colorado.
On July 22, we set out to walk the 13-mile Fraser River Trail, which runs from Fraser to Winter Park Resort, under perfect Colorado summer weather. The trail offers a pleasant blend of nature paths along the river and forest, interspersed with paved sections that pass through a busy commercial district.
Around the halfway point, we stopped for lunch in Winter Park and enjoyed one of the best burgers we’d had in a long time. After lunch, we continued our walk to Winter Park Resort, completing the 6.5-mile one-way trek. The resort was bustling with summer visitors and activities. We took a relaxing coffee break and, rather than walk the same distance back, opted to take a free shuttle from Winter Park Resort back to Fraser, where we had parked our car.
It was a wonderful day—an enjoyable mix of nature, great food, and convenience. We especially appreciated the well-organized shuttle service that made the trip even more pleasant.
On July 23, our daughter and son joined us, driving in from Denver. Together, we took an easy 6.1-mile hike on the East Shore Trail along Shadow Mountain Lake. The highlight of the hike came as we were returning—two moose appeared on the trail and stared at us from a short distance. It was an unexpected and thrilling encounter, making the hike especially memorable.
On July 24, we decided to visit Rocky Mountain National Park. However, unaware of the timed-entry permit requirement, we were stopped at the Grand Lake entrance and couldn’t enter. Instead, we adapted our plans and took a short 0.8-mile hike to Adams Falls, a quick but scenic outing.
Later, we drove to the Strawberry Lake Trailhead near Lake Granby and completed a 4.2-mile hike to Strawberry Lake. The trail rewarded us with breathtaking views of the Indian Peaks Range, open meadows, and the pristine alpine lake—one of the most beautiful sights of our trip so far.
That evening, precisely at 7:00 PM, we logged into Recreation.gov and successfully secured timed-entry tickets for the park, including access to the Bear Lake Corridor for the next day.
On July 25, we left our accommodation early to enter Rocky Mountain National Park before 9:00 AM, which allowed us to enter without a timed-entry permit. Although we had secured tickets for the 10:00 AM–12:00 PM time slot at Bear Lake and for the rest of the park, we were concerned that entering around 10:00 might risk missing the Bear Lake window, given the 1.5-hour drive from Granby.
We parked at the Park & Ride and took the shuttle to the trailhead. From there, we completed a 4.7-mile hike that led us to Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, Emerald Lake, and finally Bear Lake. The trail was popular, well-maintained, and offered some of the most scenic alpine lake views in the park.
On our return, we stopped near the Rock Cut viewpoint and hiked the Toll Memorial Trail, a 1.1-mile round trip. Although it’s rated easy on AllTrails, we found it quite challenging due to the elevation of 12,300 feet. The tundra landscape and rock formations were stunning. We even climbed one of the rocky outcrops to enjoy a breathtaking 360-degree view of the Rocky Mountains.
July 26, our last day at Granby, we walked a total of 6.6 miles round-trip from Winter Park to Winter Park Resort, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch. Later that evening, we attended a rodeo show—likely our first.
We learned that horses are the primary animals used in rodeo events, even though bull riding is the most dramatic and dangerous. Interestingly, bull riding was reserved for the final act of the evening and turned out to be less thrilling than expected. The show also featured various community activities, making it a lively and inclusive event.
As for the food, it exceeded our expectations. The beef brisket was huge, tender, and flavorful. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience and the atmosphere—it was a memorable night.
In the morning of July 27, we said goodbye to our kids and began our drive back to Phoenix, making an overnight stop in Pagosa Springs, Colorado. After dinner, we took a peaceful walk along the San Juan River, enjoying the view of the hot springs resort lining the riverbank. The sulfur-scented steam rising from the natural geothermal springs, set against the soft light of the evening sky and the gentle flow of the river, created a tranquil and memorable atmosphere.
On July 28, on our way home, we visited Chimney Rock National Monument, a fascinating archaeological and cultural site in southwestern Colorado. Rising dramatically from a high mesa, the monument’s twin spires—Chimney Rock and Companion Rock—are visible from miles away and hold deep significance.
This area was once a thriving settlement and ceremonial center for the Ancestral Puebloans between 900 and 1150 A.D. Over 200 ancient structures remain, including pit houses, plazas, and the Great House Pueblo, which is perched high on the ridge. Most notably, the site was carefully aligned with celestial events: during the major lunar standstill, the moon rises precisely between the two rock spires—evidence of the inhabitants’ sophisticated understanding of astronomy.
We took time to walk the trails and take in the expansive views of the San Juan Mountains and surrounding valleys. The blend of cultural history, natural beauty, and spiritual significance made this stop a highlight of our return journey.
Our 12 days in Colorado left a lasting impression on us—with beautiful weather, stunning landscapes, and a sense of natural wellness that refreshed both body and mind. Each day except travel days, we hiked 4–7 miles, ranging from easy to difficult, totaling 49 miles. We already know: we’ll be coming back next year.
7月16日早晨，我们驾车前往科罗拉多州的杜兰戈（Durango）。途中数次休息，历时近10个小时。傍晚6点左右抵达杜兰戈的Airbnb住处，正好赶上与已抵达的朋友们一起共进晚餐。
7月17日，开始我们第一次徒步，沿着Elbert Creek Trail前往Castle Rock。当天的天气凉爽宜人，山野间开满鲜艳的野花。步道景色壮丽，但坡度起伏较大，少有平缓路段。到达山顶后，我们边欣赏辽阔的景色，边享用自备的三明治。这次徒步全程约5.6英里，累计攀高约1700英尺。
7月18日，我们前往Ice Lake Trail，这是银顿（Silverton）附近圣胡安国家森林（San Juan National Forest）中最受欢迎的徒步路线之一。因其人气很高，我们到达时停车场早已爆满，我们只好将车停在路边。公园管理员提醒我们注意天气安全。启程时天空阴云密布，不久便开始下雨。但一路上的美景依然让我们兴致高昂。当徒步至半程刚走出树林时，头顶传来响亮的雷声。由于后续路段在林木线以上，谨慎起见我们决定返程。尽管有些不舍，我们还是作出了安全第一的决定。上午我们共徒步约3.5英里。在步道起点处用过午餐后，我们又步行1英里左右去看附近的瀑布，景色秀美，值得一看。随后我们来到银顿镇 （Silverton)，悠闲地漫步于这座充满西部风情的小镇，品尝了美味的冰淇淋。
7月19日，我们轻松地完成了两次徒步。首先是Cascade Creek Falls，短短0.8英里，但陡峭且路面多岩石，瀑布景致迷人。随后我们又在Cascade Creek Trail徒步4.2英里，途中穿越满是野花的草甸和潺潺溪流，沿途宁静祥和，风光秀丽。
7月20日，我们与朋友们告别，继续前往科罗拉多州的格兰比（Granby）。从杜兰戈到格兰比的WorldMark by Wyndham度假村车程约6小时，其中一小部分路段为碎石路，这让我们有些意外。通往格兰比这样靠近落基山国家公园的重要小镇，竟还有未铺装的路段。经过漫长而疲惫的车程，我们当天仅购物、休息，没有安排其他活动。
7月21日，我们在Grand Lake附近的Monarch Lake徒步4英里，风景优美。然而通往步道起点（trailhead）的道路崎岖不平，我们只能以每小时5英里的速度缓慢前行。但徒步道维护良好，沿途景色迷人，标识也很清晰，行程顺利，还途经另一个Cascade Creek，让我们不禁好奇，科罗拉多究竟有多少条名为“Cascade Creek”的溪流。
7月22日，我们踏上13英里长的Fraser River Trail，从弗雷泽（Fraser）前往Winter Park度假村，沿途天气晴朗舒适。途经河岸、森林和热闹的商业区，风光怡人。
途中我们在Winter Park享用了一顿美味的汉堡，之后继续前往Winter Park 度假村。到达后稍作休息，并搭乘免费接驳巴士返回弗雷泽。整日行程愉快且轻松，特别满意便捷的交通安排。
7月23日，女儿和儿子从丹佛（Denver）赶来与我们汇合。我们一同沿Shadow Mountain Lake的East Shore Trail轻松徒步6.1英里。返程途中惊喜遇见两头驼鹿近距离注视着我们，令人兴奋不已，成为当日最大亮点。
7月24日，我们未提前预约，未能进入落基山国家公园（Rocky Mountain National Park）。转而游览Adams Falls，短短0.8英里路程，风景迷人。随后又徒步4.2英里前往Strawberry Lake，路上远眺印第安峰山脉（Indian Peaks Range），穿过草甸，抵达宁静美丽的高山湖泊，景色令人惊叹。当晚7点准时上网顺利预约了次日入园许可。
7月25日，我们一早入园，徒步4.7英里，游览Nymph Lake、Dream Lake、Emerald Lake和Bear Lake，景色优美，步道维护良好。随后又登上海拔12,300英尺的Toll Memorial Trail，尽享落基山脉的360度壮丽景观。
7月26日，我们往返Winter Park Resort徒步6.6英里，午餐美味。晚上观看了我们人生第一次牛仔竞技表演（Rodeo），发现原来牛仔竞技中主要使用马匹，而最刺激的骑牛项目却比想象中温和。晚餐的牛肉胸肉尤为美味，整体氛围活跃而难忘。
7月27日，我们与孩子们道别，启程返回凤凰城（Phoenix），中途在帕戈萨斯普林斯（Pagosa Springs）过夜。晚饭后沿圣胡安河（San Juan River）漫步，欣赏河岸温泉度假村散发出的淡淡硫磺味，气氛静谧迷人。
7月28日，我们参观了奇姆尼岩国家纪念地（Chimney Rock National Monument），这是一处重要的考古与文化遗址。高耸的双峰石柱极为醒目，古老建筑遗迹和精确对准特殊月相的建筑布局，展示了古普韦布洛人的高超天文智慧。这次文化与自然结合的体验，为返程之旅画上了完美句点。
在科罗拉多的12天，我们徒步共计49英里，天气宜人，风景如画，身心得到极大放松。我们已迫不及待地期待明年的再访。
Bo Kaap 波卡普区
April 15, 2025
It was time to go home……
是回家的时候了。。。
April 15, 2025
It was time to go home. I dropped off Connie at the airport for her flight to Shanghai, then took an Uber back to Cape Town’s City Hall—the site where Nelson Mandela gave his first public speech after being released from prison. As I approached the building, I noticed a side door was open and decided to walk in to ask whether I could visit the Mandela Museum. A kind staff member said yes and personally escorted me to the museum on the second floor. Before leaving, she spoke to another woman there and asked her to lead me out once I had finished.
The museum was quiet, with only two or three other visitors. It featured thoughtful exhibits on Mandela’s life and legacy. Afterward, the woman offered to take me up to the third floor, where another small museum showcased the city’s collections. I was genuinely touched by their warmth and hospitality. I’ve visited many museums over the years, but rarely have I encountered such kindness from staff.
Before I left, I stepped out onto the iconic balcony beside Mandela’s statue and looked out over the square. I imagined that historic moment when thousands gathered below to celebrate the dawn of a new era in South Africa. It gave me chills.
Later that day, I finally joined the guided tour of Bo-Kaap—the tour we had missed two days earlier. Formerly known as the Malay Quarter, Bo-Kaap is a vibrant neighborhood home to a predominantly Muslim community. Many of their ancestors were enslaved people, political exiles, and skilled artisans brought to the Cape by the Dutch from Southeast Asia, India, and East Africa.
During apartheid, the houses were uniformly painted white. After apartheid ended, residents began repainting their homes in bold, joyful colors—reclaiming their identity and expressing freedom. Today, Bo-Kaap is one of Cape Town’s most photographed neighborhoods and also the birthplace of Cape Malay cuisine. The area was clean and well maintained, though we were advised to walk together for safety.
Cape Town blew me away in every direction. Before visiting, South Africa’s dark modern history had left me with a negative impression. But after just a few days here, I now consider Cape Town one of the most remarkable destinations I’ve ever experienced.
It’s a city of striking contrasts—home to Table Mountain, one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature, and bordered on three sides by stunning beaches and dramatic coastlines. Vineyards and wineries are nestled within the city limits, reminiscent of California’s Napa Valley. A safari is just a couple of hours away. The city itself is as clean as Singapore. There’s no honking, barely any motorcycles or bicycles, and Uber rides are clean, affordable, and always available.
The coastline here rivals—perhaps even surpasses—California’s Monterey Bay. The V&A Waterfront could easily compete with Sydney’s harbor, if not surpass it. Hillside homes along the coast reminded me of Santa Barbara. The food scene was a pleasant surprise, with many dishes inspired by East Asian cuisine—one of our favorites.
Yet, beneath all this beauty, we were constantly reminded of the country’s challenges. Locals frequently advised us not to walk alone for safety. The country has staggering 40% unemployment rate. It made me wonder what realities lie beneath this postcard-perfect surface.
Now I’m flying back to Phoenix. There’s truly no place like home—but Cape Town has left a deep and lasting impression on me.
波卡普区
2025年4月15日
是回家的时候了。早餐后我先送佩民去机场，她搭乘飞往上海的航班，然后我自己乘坐Uber回到开普敦旧市政厅——这是纳尔逊·曼德拉出狱后发表首次公开演讲的地方。走近市政厅时，我注意到侧门开着，便走进去问能否参观曼德拉博物馆。一位亲切的工作人员说可以，并亲自带我上到二楼的博物馆。在离开前，她还特地交代另一位女士，在我参观结束后带我出去。
博物馆里很安静，只有两三位游客。展览内容精心布置，呈现了曼德拉的一生及其伟大贡献。参观完后，那位女士又主动提出带我上三楼，那里还有一个展示本地藏品的小型博物馆。她们的热情与真诚让我深受感动。多年来我参观过无数博物馆，但像这样受到工作人员如此亲切对待的情况，却屈指可数。
离开前，我走上那座标志性的阳台，阳台旁就是曼德拉的雕像。我俯瞰着下方的广场，脑海中浮现出电影和照片见过的当年万众欢呼、迎接南非新时代到来的历史时刻。
然后我前去参加了波卡普区（Bo-Kaap）的徒步导览游——这是我们两天前错过的行程。波卡普原名马来区，是一个色彩斑斓、以穆斯林居民为主的社区。他们的祖先多为被荷兰殖民者从东南亚、印度和东非带到开普敦的奴隶、政治流放者及工匠。在种族隔离时期，这里的房屋都被统一刷成白色。种族隔离制度结束后，居民开始将房子重新粉刷成鲜艳明快的颜色，以此找回自己的身份，表达自由。如今，这里已成为开普敦最受欢迎的拍照景点之一，也是开普马来美食的发源地。社区虽干净整洁，但据说治安不好，导游不停地提醒我们结伴同行以策安全。
开普敦从各方面都让我惊艳。在来之前，南非阴暗的近代历史曾让我对这里抱有负面印象。但短短几天之后，我已经将开普敦列为最令人难忘的目的地之一。
这是一座充满对比的城市——这里有被誉为“新世界七大奇迹”之一的桌山，三面环海，海岸线壮丽迷人。城市中就有葡萄园和酒庄，令人联想到加州的纳帕谷。只需开车几小时，就能体验一次野生动物园之旅。城市本身整洁得仿佛新加坡，没有喇叭声，几乎看不到摩托车或自行车，Uber便捷、干净且价格合理。这里的海岸美景不输加州的蒙特雷湾，甚至可以说更胜一筹。V&A海滨区的繁华程度不亚于悉尼港口，甚至有过之而无不及。沿海的山坡住宅让我想起圣塔芭芭拉。饮食方面也充满惊喜，不少菜肴深受东亚风味影响，正合我们的口味。
然而，在这份美丽的背后，我们也不断被提醒这个国家所面临的挑战。当地人经常提醒我们不要单独外出，以策安全。全国失业率高达40%，这让我不禁思考，在这幅如明信片般美丽的表象下，掩藏着怎样的现实。
现在，我正飞回凤凰城。离家近三个月了，没有地方比家更温暖，但开普敦，已在我心中留下了深刻且持久的印象。
Cape of Good Hope 好望角
April 14 2025
It was another day of perfect weather……
来到开普敦第四天了。。。
April 14 2025
It was another day of perfect weather. We joined a guided tour to visit the Cape of Good Hope and see the African penguins at Boulders Beach.
Our first stop was the old lighthouse. We took the Flying Dutchman funicular to the top and then walked down. The lighthouse had been decommissioned long ago because it was often shrouded in clouds due to its high elevation. The view from the top was still stunning.
Next, we hiked about 45 minutes to the Cape of Good Hope. Contrary to popular belief, it’s neither the southernmost point of Africa nor the meeting point of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. It’s simply another scenic coastal landmark—nothing too special to us.
After that, the bus took us to one of the two penguin colonies in Cape Town. Watching the penguin parents feed their chicks was a heartwarming experience.
After the tour, we took a leisurely stroll around the V&A Waterfront. We really liked it—it’s definitely one of the nicest waterfronts we’ve visited.
For dinner, we enjoyed some traditional South African cuisine. The braai (grilled lamb, beef, and ostrich) and Cape Malay chicken curry were both delicious. Afterward, we called an Uber back to our hotel. The traffic control staff in the area kindly helped us twice—yesterday and today—to locate our Uber. We used Uber many times in Cape Town, and all the drivers were friendly. The service was convenient and affordable.
好望角
2025年4月14日
来到开普敦第四天了。今天又是一个天气晴朗、非常适合出游的日子。我们参加了一个当地旅游团，前往好望角，并去博尔德斯海滩（Boulders Beach）观看非洲企鹅。
来到好望角自然保护区，第一站是好望角旧灯塔。我们搭乘登山缆车上山，再步行下山。这座灯塔因为位置太高，经常被云雾笼罩，早已被废弃。但山顶的景色依然非常壮观。在山顶能看见下面的新灯塔。
接着我们徒步大约45分钟前往好望角。其实这里既不是非洲大陆的最南端，也不是印度洋和大西洋的交汇点。原名叫风暴角，后来葡萄牙国王把它改成好望角。
随后，巴士带我们前往开普敦的企鹅保护区之一。看到企鹅爸爸妈妈轮番孵蛋以及喂养小企鹅的画面，真是可爱又令人感动。
行程结束后，我们在V&A海滨广场附近随意散步。这里游客不少，除了景色好，更有着数不胜数的购物餐饮服务。我们非常喜欢这里，这是我们去过的最棒的海滨广场之一。晚餐我们在海滨广场尝试了南非传统料理。烤肉拼盘（包括羊肉、牛肉和鸵鸟肉）以及马来风味的咖喱鸡，再来一份南非甜品，每一样都非常美味。
饭后我们叫了Uber回酒店。广场附近的交通管理人员帮了我们两次忙——昨天和今天，协助我们确认上车地点并找到所订的车。在开普敦我们多次使用Uber，司机都很友好，价格也很实惠。我们一直被提醒说开普敦不安全，但至少我们接触到的所有人都很友善。
Third Day in Cape Town 开普敦第三天
April 13, 2025
The weather turned out to be perfect for sightseeing,…..
今天天气非常好，。。。
April 13, 2025
The weather turned out to be perfect for sightseeing—clear skies and comfortable temperatures. We boarded the Hop-On Hop-Off bus for the third time, eager to explore more of Cape Town.
Our first stop was in the city center, where we had hoped to join a free walking tour. Unfortunately, the group had already left about ten minutes earlier. A staff member at the tour office kindly directed us to try and catch up with them, but we couldn’t find the group. Instead, we decided to join a different walking tour focused on the city’s historical buildings.
Although the city center was clean and quiet, our guide repeatedly reminded us to stay close together for safety reasons. It was a subtle but constant reminder of the complexities that lie beneath the surface of this beautiful city.
After the tour, we hopped back on the blue line bus and rode to Hout Bay for lunch. This seaside town is a popular spot, and we quickly discovered why—the fish and chips, along with the shrimp, were fresh and delicious.
From there, we continued our journey, getting off at Sea Point. We walked along the coastline toward Mouille Point, taking in stunning ocean views. The walk was absolutely beautiful—unlike any coastal path we’ve seen before.
At Mouille Point, we boarded the bus one last time and returned to the V&A Waterfront. We grabbed a quick bite—a croissant and tacos to go—before boarding the Sunset Tour bus.
This special ride took us up to Signal Hill, where we enjoyed a light snack while watching the sun slowly dip below the horizon. The city had laid out large pieces of fabric across the ground, making it easy and comfortable for everyone to sit and enjoy the view. The sunset was breathtaking, casting warm light over the mountains and sea. As an added bonus, it was a full moon night—so just as the sun disappeared, the moon rose, lighting up the evening sky. It was a magical experience—one we’ll never forget.
开普敦第三天
2025年4月13日
今天天气非常好，我们连续第三天搭乘了城市的观光巴士（Hop-On Hop-Off），继续探索开普敦。
第一站是市中心，我们原本打算参加一场免费的步行导览，但可惜已经晚到了十分钟。导览办公室的一位工作人员热心地带我们试图追上队伍，但我们还是没能找到他们。于是我们转而参加了另一条路线的导览，主要是参观市中心的一些历史建筑。
虽然市中心干净而安静，导游却一路不断提醒我们为安全起见，大家不要走散，小组一起行动。这也让人隐约意识到这个城市在美丽背后仍有它的复杂一面。
导览结束后，我们再次跳上蓝线巴士，前往豪特湾（Hout Bay）吃午餐。那里是个非常受欢迎的用餐地点，我们点了当地的特色美食炸鱼，薯条和炸虾，非常新鲜美味。
午餐后，我们继续搭巴士，在海角（Sea Point）下车，沿着海岸线步行前往穆里角（Mouille Point）。一路风景美不胜收，我们几乎想不出曾经去过哪个地方可以与之相比。
抵达穆里角后，我们最后一次登上巴士，回到V&A海滨广场。我们匆匆买了可颂和塔可外带，然后登上了日落观光巴士。
这辆巴士带我们登上信号山（Signal Hill），我们一边吃着简单小食，一边欣赏夕阳缓缓落下。山顶上铺满了大片的布料，方便游客舒适地席地而坐。眼前的日落与周围景致美得令人屏息。而且那天恰逢满月，太阳落下之后，月亮随之升起，月光洒满夜空。这是一次难以忘怀的体验。下山的路上我们也最后再看一眼还停靠在港口，但马上就要起航的邮轮，和她说声再见。
Second Day in Cape Town 开普敦第二天
April 12, 2025
Today’s weather was rainy and windy,……
25天的邮轮旅行今天终于结束了。
April 12, 2025
Our 25-day cruise journey finally ended today. We traveled all the way from Asia to East Africa, and onward to South Africa. Along the way, we passed Cape Agulhas—the southernmost tip of Africa where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet—and then continued past the famous Cape of Good Hope before arriving in Cape Town. Every port and every country the cruise stopped at was new to us, making this an extraordinary experience.
After enjoying our last breakfast onboard this morning, we reluctantly disembarked. We ordered an Uber at the pier and checked into the nearby Westin Hotel. The cruise line had offered a bus transfer to the hotel at $40 per person because many passengers planned to stay there and continue their sightseeing in Cape Town. However, upon checking the map and seeing that it was just a few minutes away, we opted to call an Uber ourselves, which only cost us $3.
After checking in, we quickly headed out to explore. We were very lucky yesterday—the good weather gave us the chance to ascend Table Mountain. Today, however, the weather turned windy and rainy. Undeterred, we took the blue-line sightseeing bus, visiting Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Groot Constantia Winery, and the World of Birds Wildlife Sanctuary.
The National Botanical Garden was beautiful and meticulously maintained. Despite the chilly rain, walking through the peaceful grounds felt refreshing and serene.
Groot Constantia, the oldest winery in South Africa, was a lovely stop. We enjoyed a relaxing lunch at their café, savoring local flavors with chicken wings and a comforting bowl of seafood laksa (curry).
In contrast, the World of Birds was a bit underwhelming. We were also disappointed to miss the Monkey Jungle exhibit due to its short opening hours.
After 25 days aboard the cruise ship, we were really craving Chinese food. We found satisfaction at Dawn Asian Restaurant, where every dish—stir-fried string beans, Hong Kong-style prawns, and egg noodles—was flavorful and hit the spot.
开普敦第二天
2025年4月12日
25天的邮轮旅行今天终于结束了。一路从亚洲来到东非，再到南非。又从印度洋与大西洋的交界处，也是非洲大陆的最南端奥古哈斯角 （Cape Agulhas）绕过，再经过著名的好望角，最终来到开普敦。这次邮轮停靠的每一个港口，每一个国家我们以前都没来过，所以这是一次很不错的体验。
早上在船上吃了最后一顿早餐后，依依不舍地下了船。在船码头叫了Uber，来到不远处的Westin酒店入住。因为船上有不少乘客今天下船后将入住Westin酒店，继续在开普敦游玩，我们邮轮特地提供从船码头到酒店的大巴服务，收费每人40美金。看着地图才几分钟的路程，我们决定还是自己叫Uber, 结果才3美金。
办完入住赶紧出去转转。我们昨天很幸运，好天气让我们有机会登上桌山。可今天的天气是刮风下雨，但我们依然出门游玩，搭乘了蓝线的观光巴士，依次游览了国家植物园、Groot Constantia酒庄以及鸟类世界公园。
国家植物园风景如画，维护得井井有条。尽管天气寒冷、细雨绵绵，在花园中漫步却意外地令人心旷神怡。
Groot Constantia 是南非最古老的酒庄，环境优美，氛围宁静。在酒庄的餐厅里，我们享用了当地风味的午餐：炸鸡翅和一碗暖胃的海鲜喇沙（咖喱汤面），十分美味。
相比之下，鸟类世界公园让人有些失望。我们还错过了园区内猴子丛林的开放时间，稍感遗憾。
在船上待了25天之后，我们非常想念中餐了。于是我们去了 Dawn Asian 餐厅，点了清炒四季豆、避风塘大虾和炒鸡蛋面，每一道菜都香气扑鼻、令人满足。