Rozafa Castle, Albania 罗扎法城堡
May 2, 2026
Over the past twenty days,……
过去二十天里，我们走访了四个曾属于前南斯拉夫的美丽国家。。。
May 2, 2026
Over the past twenty days, we traveled through four beautiful countries that were once part of former Yugoslavia. We will leave with countless photos of stunning landscapes, historic towns, and unforgettable scenery. Yet the memories that left the deepest impression on us were not the picturesque views, but the lingering reminders of war — the heartbreaking photographs displayed in museums, bullet scars still visible on apartment buildings, rows of white gravestones scattered across city cemeteries, and the taxi driver who quietly referred to himself as a “war baby.”
Together, these moments became sobering reminders of the suffering, loss, and sacrifices endured by countless innocent civilians not so long ago. Today, we were heading to Albania to learn about yet another chapter of the region’s dark and complicated history.
Our Albanian driver picked us up in the morning for the journey to Tirana. He did not seem entirely familiar with the route, but after about three and a half hours on the road, we reached the border crossing. This time, the procedure was surprisingly simple. The officers briefly looked at our passports and waved us through without even scanning them or recording our entry. Just like that, we entered Albania — a country that once felt strangely familiar to many of us who grew up in China during the Cold War era.
Our first stop was Rozafa Castle. Perched high above the surrounding landscape, the ancient fortress overlooks the meeting point of several rivers and has guarded the region for centuries. We knew there would be a short uphill walk, but we did not expect the long, rough stone path leading all the way up to the ruins. The uneven terrain made it difficult for our friend to continue climbing toward the restaurant near the top, so she decided to rest halfway while we continued upward and planned to bring back takeaway food for her.
Even ordering a simple pizza became an adventure. Between the language barrier and the fact that we still did not have local currency, communication was not easy. Eventually, with a mixture of gestures, smiles, and patience, everything worked out, and we ended up enjoying a simple but satisfying lunch.
The castle ruins themselves were atmospheric rather than grand, but the panoramic views were spectacular. Surrounded by rivers, mountains, and open plains, the scenery stretched far into the distance beneath the bright spring sky. We spent about an hour and a half wandering through the ruins and taking in the views.
After another two-hour drive, we finally arrived in Tirana and checked into a pleasant hotel in the embassy district. From our room on the fifteenth floor, we had our first sweeping view of the city we would begin exploring the next day.
For dinner, we chose a seafood restaurant conveniently located across from our hotel. Everyone was still in the mood for seafood, and we enjoyed a delicious meal together. The fresh ingredients and flavorful dishes made for a very satisfying dining experience.
Our first impression of Tirana was quite positive. The city felt lively, welcoming, and full of energy. As the evening came to an end, we looked forward to exploring more of Albania’s capital the next day.
2026年5月2日
过去二十天里，我们走访了四个曾属于前南斯拉夫的美丽国家。离开时，我们带走了无数壮丽风景、历史古城与美食的照片和记忆。然而，真正最深刻触动我们的，并不是那些风景本身，而是战争留下的痕迹——博物馆里令人心碎的照片、至今仍留在公寓楼外墙上的弹孔、城市墓园中一排排白色墓碑，以及那位出租车司机轻声说自己是“战争婴儿（war baby）”时的神情。
这一切，都不断提醒着人们：那场并不遥远的战争，曾让无数无辜平民付出了沉重的代价。而今天，我们将前往另一个国家——阿尔巴尼亚，去了解这片地区另一段黑暗而复杂的历史。
早上，我们的阿尔巴尼亚司机来接我们前往地拉那（Tirana)。先从科托尔（Kotor)延着亚德里亚海岸线开，沿途风景优美。司机似乎对路线并不是特别熟悉，离开海岸线，进入山区，大约三个半小时后，我们抵达了边境。这一次的过关手续出奇地简单，工作人员只是简单看了看护照，甚至没有扫描或登记入境信息，更没有盖章，就直接挥手让我们通过了。就这样，我们进入了阿尔巴尼亚——这个国家对于许多在冷战时期成长于中国的人来说，多少带着一种熟悉而遥远的感觉。
我们的第一站是罗扎法城堡（Rozafa Castle）。这座古老的城堡高踞于山丘之上，俯瞰着几条河流交汇的平原，多世纪以来一直守护着这片土地。原本以为只是稍微爬一段上坡路，没想到通往城堡遗址的是一条漫长而粗糙的石头路。崎岖不平的路面对我们同行的膝盖有伤的朋友来说有些费力，她最终决定在半山休息，而我们三人则继续向上，准备帮她带些外卖下来。
就连点一份简单的披萨，也成了一场小小的冒险。由于语言不通，加上我们当时还没有兑换当地货币，沟通并不容易。最后靠着手势、笑容与耐心，总算顺利解决，我们也吃上了一顿简单却满足的午餐。
城堡本身如今更多只剩下充满历史感的遗迹，而非宏伟完整的建筑，但四周的景色却极为壮观。河流、群山与平原环绕四周，在明亮的春日天空下，一直延伸到远方。我们大约停留了一个半小时才回到车上。
原来计划还要停另一个景点，因为从黑山的Kotor 到地拉那路途有点远，而阿尔巴尼亚的司机开车比较猛， 一路过来大家也都有点紧张和累了，决定不再前往那里。
又经过两个小时的车程，我们终于抵达地拉那，并入住位于使馆区附近的一家舒适酒店。从十五楼的房间望出去，景色怡人，尤其是漂亮的清真寺在落日余晖中显得格外耀眼。
晚餐就近在酒店对面的一家海鲜餐厅，大家还是对海鲜更感兴趣，好好美餐了一顿。对地拉那这座城市的第一个印象不错，期待明天的到来。
1400 steps to Fortress 1400石阶上古堡
May 1, 2026
One of the must-do activities in Kotor is hiking up the mountain……
来到科托尔最经典的活动之一便是登上山上的古堡。。。
May 1, 2026
One of the must-do activities in Kotor is hiking up the mountain to the old fortress, either through the city walls or via the natural preserve trail outside the town. We chose the more traditional route through the city walls.
After paying the 15€ entrance fee, we began climbing the roughly 1,400 stone steps leading up the mountainside. Fortunately, the weather was perfect for hiking — cool, sunny, and breezy. We stopped constantly along the way to take photos, and with every turn and every section of the climb, the view became more spectacular. The higher we climbed, the more dramatic the panorama grew: the red rooftops of Kotor Old Town below us, the steep mountains surrounding the bay, and the calm waters of the Bay of Kotor stretching deep into the distance. By the time we reached the fortress, the scenery was absolutely breathtaking and easily one of the highlights of our stay in Montenegro.
After descending back into town, we returned to the apartment for a simple lunch and, more importantly, a short afternoon nap.
Later in the afternoon, we joined a 3 p.m. boat tour on the bay. The first stop was the small artificial island church near Perast — Our Lady of the Rocks. We had to pay an additional 5€ per person to go onto the island, though the visit itself lasted only about 15 minutes.
Afterward, the boat continued to Perast, where we were given around 40 minutes to explore. The small coastal town was elegant and peaceful, lined with old stone buildings and waterfront churches facing the bay. It felt like the kind of place where one could easily spend a slow afternoon sitting at a café by the water. Unfortunately, our stop was far too short. We barely had enough time to wander through a few streets before needing to return to the boat — not even enough time for a coffee.
That evening, we did not feel like going out again for dinner, so we simply ordered takeaway food from a restaurant about a hundred meters from our apartment.
After so many consecutive travel days, we were beginning to feel a little tired. Instead of continuing to explore, we stayed in for the evening and quietly enjoyed the sunset view over the bay from the apartment.
2026年5月1日
来到科托尔（Kotor) 最经典的活动之一便是登上山上的古堡（Fortress）。游客可以选择沿着老城城墙一路攀登，也可以从自然保护区的小路上山。我们选择了更具代表性的城墙路线。
买好每人15欧元的门票后，我们开始攀爬通往山顶的大约1400级石阶。幸好当天的天气非常适合徒步，阳光明媚却不炎热，山风吹来十分舒服。一路上我们不停地拍照，而随着高度不断上升，眼前的景色也变得越来越壮观。
脚下是密密麻麻的红瓦老城，远处则是被群山环抱的科托尔湾（Bay of Kotor）。平静的海水一路向山谷深处延伸，在阳光下泛着淡淡的蓝绿色光泽。随着一步步向上攀登，视野也不断变得更加开阔。等终于抵达山顶古堡时，整个海湾、古城与群山尽收眼底，那种辽阔而震撼的景色，让人久久不愿离开，也成为我们此次黑山之行中最难忘的画面之一。
下山时，我们才注意到路边长满了挂着果实的杏仁树。树上的绿杏仁看起来十分新鲜，不过终究还是没敢随意摘下来尝尝它真正的味道。
下山回到公寓后，我们简单吃了午饭，更重要的是补了一个短短的午觉。
下午三点，我们参加了海湾游船团。小快艇开得飞快，第一站是佩拉斯特（Perast）附近海上的小岛教堂——岩石圣母岛（Our Lady of the Rocks）。登岛还需要额外支付每人5欧元，不过停留时间只有短短十五分钟。
随后快艇继续前往佩拉斯特（Perast），让我们停留约四十分钟。这座海边小镇安静而优雅，沿岸排列着古老石屋与教堂，带着一种悠闲而精致的亚得里亚海气息。这里原本很适合慢慢散步，或者坐在海边咖啡馆里发呆一个下午。可惜时间实在太短，我们只是匆匆走了几条小巷，甚至连喝杯咖啡的时间都没有，便又不得不返回码头。
晚上我们已经懒得再出门吃饭，于是干脆从离公寓一百多米外的一家餐厅外卖了晚餐回来。
连续多日不停移动和旅行之后，我们多少开始感到有些疲惫。于是这一晚，我们没有再继续安排活动，只是安静地待在公寓里，慢慢欣赏海湾上的日落景色。
Spit-roasted Lamb 炭火烤全羊
April 30, 2026
Apparently, we still were not fully satisfied with the lamb……
今天又将前往一个新的国家——黑山。。。
April 30, 2026
Apparently, we still were not fully satisfied with the lamb we had the day before. When we learned that we would pass through Jablanica, a small town famous for spit-roasted lamb, on our way to Kotor, we specifically asked for a lunch stop there.
We stopped at Restoran Kovačević, perched on a cliff overlooking the emerald-green river below. Several small lambs were slowly roasting over charcoal outside, and the entire place smelled of grilled meat and smoke. This time, we were more cautious and ordered only 500 grams of lamb along with a few other dishes. The lamb looked beautifully roasted — crispy on the outside and tender inside — but the strong lamb flavor was still a bit more than I expected. As we ate, we even started wondering whether all the effort to try the famous specialty had really been worth it. Still, the experience itself was memorable. Sometimes in travel, the most interesting meals are not necessarily the most delicious ones, but the ones tied most closely to a place and its identity.
After lunch, we continued south and entered Montenegro. The border crossing was surprisingly casual. We simply handed over our passports through the car window without even getting out of the vehicle. Oddly enough, the officer stamped only two of the passports before waving us through.
By late afternoon, we arrived in Kotor. Our rented apartment was located just outside the Old Town in a four-story villa facing the bay. The Bay of Kotor was calm and beautiful, surrounded by steep mountains that reflected softly on the water. In the distance, an MSC cruise ship was docked near the cruise terminal, adding a touch of activity to the otherwise peaceful harbor.
Our host reminded us that many stores would be closed for the upcoming May Day holiday over the next three days, so we should buy groceries that evening if we needed anything. We stopped by a nearby market to pick up some basic supplies for the coming days.
Later, we walked into Kotor Old Town for dinner and, as had become our routine during this trip, took an initial evening stroll through the city. Dinner was satisfying, and the Old Town was certainly beautiful, with its narrow stone alleys, old churches, heavy medieval walls, and lively little squares.
But by this point in the journey, after visiting so many historic European old towns, the sense of excitement was no longer quite as strong as it had been earlier in the trip.
2026年4月30日
今天又将前往一个新的国家——黑山。从萨拉热窝到黑山的港湾小镇科托尔（Kotor）交通不是很方便。朋友在网上找了个萨拉热窝的包车司机。
显然，我们对前一天吃到的烤羊肉并不算完全满意。当得知前往科托尔的途中会经过以炭火烤全羊闻名的小镇亚布拉尼察（Jablanica）时，我们特地要求司机安排一个午餐停留。
我们来到河边悬崖上的科瓦切维奇餐厅（Restoran Kovačević）。餐厅俯瞰着翠绿色的河水，景色相当不错。门口几只小羊正在炭火上缓慢旋转烤制，空气中弥漫着浓浓的烤羊香味，让人一下子就感受到这里对于羊肉的执着。
这一次，我们学乖了，只点了500克烤羊肉，再加上一些其它菜。羊肉外表烤得金黄诱人，皮脆肉嫩，但羊膻味还是比我们预想中更重一些。对我们这些吃猪肉的，Split 那里的烤乳猪更配我们的胃口。这一顿羊肉口味虽然未能十分满足，但这样的体验本身倒也十分难忘。旅行中，有时最有趣的并不一定是“最好吃”的，而是那些带着地方特色与记忆点的经历。
午饭后，我们继续南下进入黑山（Montenegro）。边境手续意外地简单，我们甚至不需要下车，只是把护照递给边检人员。结果他们只在其中两本护照上盖了章，随后便挥手让我们通过了，整个过程顺利的有些不可思议。
从萨拉热窝开车到科托尔，司机没有走最短的路线，因为那是一条非常糟糕的路，对车损害很大。司机宁愿饶道多开近一个小时。但即便如此，进入黑山之后有一段路况还是不太好，坐在车里很不舒服。
傍晚时分，我们抵达科托尔。租住的公寓位于老城墙外不远处，是一栋面朝海湾的四层别墅。朋友特地选了最好的带大阳台的套间，一个海景房。科托尔湾（Bay of Kotor）平静而优美，四周群山环抱，海面几乎没有波浪。远处的邮轮码头停靠着一艘MSC邮轮，让这个宁静海湾多了几分热闹。
房东提醒我们，因为即将到来的“五一劳动节（May Day）”假期，未来三天许多商店都会关门，如果需要买些食品的话，最好今天去。于是我们先去附近超市买了一些基本食品。
安顿好后，我们步行前往科托尔老城（Kotor Old Town）吃晚饭，也顺便进行了像往常一样的“第一轮熟悉城市散步”。因为前几天在波黑每顿都是肉，今天终于又回到亚得里亚海边，主打海鲜，晚餐令人满意。老城依旧是典型的欧洲中世纪古城：狭窄石板路、古老教堂、厚重城墙，以及热闹的小广场，一切都很漂亮。
只是旅行进行到这个阶段，在看过太多类似的欧洲古城之后，最初那种强烈的新鲜感，似乎已经慢慢减弱了。