Kota Kinabalu, East Malaysia 东马的哥打京那巴鲁
March 7, 2026
Today we had an even earlier shore excursion than yesterday,……
今天我们的船来到了东马的哥打京那巴鲁。。。
March 7, 2026
Today we had an even earlier shore excursion than yesterday, so we had breakfast on the balcony before 7 a.m.
The two of us joined different excursions today — one to Kinabalu Park and the other exploring Kota Kinabalu city.
Kinabalu Park is Malaysia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. We took a two-hour bus ride from the port to the park, making a brief stop at a local open market along the way. At the park we did a short hike through the rainforest. Although the weather was pleasant and comfortable, we did not see much wildlife. Lunch was served at a hotel on a hilltop, where a buffet was provided. It was decent, and I tried mangosteen for the first time — surprisingly delicious. The entire excursion lasted about seven hours, but overall it did not offer anything particularly unique for me.
Connie joined a different excursion from the ship — a guided city tour exploring the cultural highlights of Kota Kinabalu, the vibrant capital of the Malaysian state of Sabah. The tour began with a photo stop at the iconic Tun Mustapha Building, although visitors are not allowed inside. The next stop was the impressive Sabah State Mosque. From there, the tour continued to the Sabah Heritage Village, where traditional bamboo houses provide insight into the lifestyles of Sabah’s diverse indigenous communities. The final stop was the local handicraft market, where visitors can find Sabah’s well-known freshwater cultured pearls.
Overall, it was not the most exciting day of the trip — just an average day of exploration along the journey.
2026年3月7日
今天我们的船来到了东马的哥打京那巴鲁。我们还是参加邮轮组织的岸上活动，时间比昨天还要更早一些，因此我们再次让管家送餐，早上七点前就在阳台上吃了早餐。
我们两个人分别参加了不同的岸上游，成刚前往神山公园（Kinabalu Park），Connie则是哥打京那巴鲁的市区游。
神山公园是马来西亚第一个联合国教科文组织世界遗产地。从码头出发，乘坐大约两个小时的巴士前往公园，途中在一个当地的露天市场短暂停留。到达公园后，我们在雨林中进行了一个简短的徒步。虽然天气凉爽舒适，但并没有看到多少野生动物。午餐安排在山顶一家酒店的餐厅，以自助餐形式提供，味道还算不错。成刚第一次品尝了山竹，味道出乎意料地好。之后又是二个小时巴士回来，整个行程大约持续七个小时，不过总体来说，感觉并没有特别独特的体验。
Connie参加了邮轮安排的另一条岸上游——哥打京那巴鲁城市观光之旅，探索沙巴州首府这座充满活力的城市。大巴带着大家首先来到标志性的敦慕斯塔法大厦（Tun Mustapha Building）停留拍照，不过游客不能进入大楼内部。接着前往气势宏伟的沙巴州清真寺，同样因为斋月的缘故，游客只能在外面看看拍照留念，而不能进清真寺参观。随后大巴带着大家来到沙巴文化村（Sabah Heritage Village），那里用传统竹屋展示了沙巴各个原住民族群的生活方式。最后一站是当地的手工艺市场，不计其数的摊位都在卖沙巴著名的淡水养殖珍珠首饰。手工艺市场旁边是当地的一个水果食品市场，新鲜芒果排得整整齐齐，非常诱人。另外还有各种土特产等等。
今天的二个岸上游都比较一般，东马明显感觉比西马落后。对我们来说也算是到此一游吧，也只有坐邮轮才会来到这地方。
回到船上，下午去听了个讲座，是关于明天要去的一个港口城市，先大概了解一下情况。
Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei 文莱 斯里巴加湾市
March 6, 2026
After two sea days, this morning our ship docked at Muara Port,……
经过两天的海上航行，。。。
March 6, 2026
After two sea days, this morning our ship docked at Muara Port, the gateway to the small but prosperous nation of Brunei, one of the richest countries in the region.
Since we had an early shore excursion, we requested breakfast room service. At the scheduled time in the morning, the butler came and set up a table on the balcony. The breakfast was a simple continental meal with hot coffee, croissants, yogurt, and a few other items. Although it was modest, the experience was pleasant and much less stressful before an early morning excursion.
From the port we drove about half an hour to the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, a quiet and orderly city with wide roads, tidy buildings, and a relaxed atmosphere. What struck us immediately was how calm the city felt—almost no motorcycles or bicycles, and hardly any pedestrians on the streets. Life here seems to move at a slower, more measured pace, often referred to locally as the “Brunei way.”
Our first stop was outside the gates of Istana Nurul Iman, the official residence of the Sultan. Although visitors are not allowed inside, the enormous scale of the palace is striking. Stretching along the river behind elegant gates, it is known as the largest residential palace in the world.
We then visited the small but colorful Teng Yun Temple, the oldest Chinese temple in Brunei, which survived the destruction of World War II. Just next to the temple is a lively morning market where local vendors sell fresh vegetables, tropical fruits, seafood, and a variety of traditional snacks. Walking through the market offered a glimpse into daily life in the city. Interestingly, we did not see any meat for sale and only spotted a few small fish in a bowl; most stalls were selling vegetables and produce.
Next we took a small ferry to cross the river and explore Kampong Ayer, the centuries-old water village often called the “Venice of the East,” and considered one of the oldest water settlements in the world. Hundreds of wooden houses stand on stilts above the river, connected by wooden walkways and small bridges. Despite its long history, the village felt quiet and calm, not nearly as busy as the floating villages we had seen in Cambodia.
We were welcomed into a floating house and served a selection of traditional Bruneian snacks. Sitting in the living room above the gently moving water while enjoying the local treats gave us a warm glimpse into everyday life in this unique riverside community.
Later we visited the elegant Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. Its golden dome rises above a tranquil lagoon, and the white marble building reflects beautifully in the surrounding water, making it one of the most iconic landmarks in Southeast Asia.
Our final stop was the impressive Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. The mosque is crowned with 29 golden domes, representing the 29th Sultan of Brunei, and is surrounded by manicured gardens and fountains. Larger and more monumental in scale, the mosque reflects the country’s strong Islamic tradition and prosperity. As noon approached, we saw local Muslim men slowly walking toward the mosque for the Friday prayers. During Ramadan, however, non-Muslims are generally not allowed inside the mosque.
As we returned toward the port in the afternoon, Bandar Seri Begawan left us with the impression of a city that is calm, clean, and quietly elegant.
We also had an amazing culinary experience during the last two days at sea, including a memorable dinner at Umi Uma, the only Nobu restaurant at sea.
2026年3月6日
经过两天的海上航行，今天早晨，我们的邮轮停靠在文莱的摩拉港（Muara Port）。这里是文莱达鲁萨兰国（Brunei Darussalam）的主要港口。文莱是一个面积不大，却依靠丰富的石油和天然气资源而富裕起来的国家。
我们参加了邮轮组织的岸上游。由于今天一早要参加岸上游，我们不想吃自助早餐，就提前预订了客房送餐。到了约定时间，管家准时来到房间，在阳台上为我们摆好餐桌。我们只点了些简单的欧陆式早餐，有热咖啡、羊角面包、酸奶等。在阳台上悠闲地享用早餐，为即将开始的清晨岸上行提供了一个轻松而惬意的开始。
下船离开港口后，驱车大约半小时来到首都斯里巴加湾市。整座城市安静整洁，道路宽阔，建筑整齐，整体给人一种从容而悠闲的感觉。街上几乎看不到摩托车或自行车，行人也很少，生活节奏显得格外缓慢，这也被称为“文莱式生活”。
我们的第一站是位于河岸旁的努洛伊曼皇宫（Istana Nurul Iman）门前。这是文莱苏丹的官邸。虽然游客无法进入参观，但从外面已经可以感受到它惊人的规模。皇宫沿河而建，据说是世界上最大的有人居住的宫殿。
随后我们来到色彩鲜艳的天云宫（Teng Yun Temple）。这是文莱最古老的华人庙宇，并在二战时期幸存下来。庙旁边就是一个热闹的早市，当地居民在这里售卖蔬菜、水果、海鲜以及各种传统小吃。我们在市场里随意走走，感受当地人的日常生活。比较有意思的是，几乎没有看到卖肉的摊位，只看到一个小碗里放着几条小鱼，大多数摊位都在卖蔬菜和农产品。
接着我们乘坐渡船过河，来到历史悠久的水上村（Kampong Ayer）。这里被认为是世界上最古老的水上聚落之一。数千座木屋建在河面上的高脚桩上，由木制栈道和小桥相连。不过这里显得十分安静，没有我们在柬埔寨见到的水上村庄那么热闹。
在水村里，我们被安排进入一户水上人家，在那里品尝了一些文莱传统点心。坐在客厅里，脚下是缓缓流动的河水，一边品尝当地小吃，一边聊天，让我们对这种独特的水上生活有所了解。
之后我们去了奥马尔·阿里·赛义夫丁清真寺（Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque），斋月期间不让进，只是在外面照相留念。金色圆顶在阳光下熠熠生辉，洁白的大理石建筑坐落在人工湖旁，被认为是东南亚最美丽的清真寺之一。
最后一站是宏伟的杰米清真寺（Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque）。这座清真寺拥有 29 个金色圆顶，象征文莱第29任苏丹。清真寺规模宏大，四周是精心修剪的花园与喷泉，显得庄严而华丽。刚过中午时分，我们看到许多当地穆斯林男子慢慢走进清真寺礼拜大厅，准备参加周五的主麻礼拜。斋月期间，非穆斯林一般不能进入清真寺大厅参观，但可以在清真寺建筑周围照相。
下午返回港口的路上，正值周五中午到下午两点之间，大多数商店和工作场所都会关闭，让穆斯林参加主麻礼拜。斯里巴加湾市显得更加安静从容，街上车辆也很少。这座城市虽然不大，却给人留下干净、宁静而优雅的深刻印象。
Border Crossing into Singapore 跨境进入新加坡
March 3, 2026
Instead of flying directly from Shanghai to Singapore to start our cruise, ……
原本我们可以从上海直接飞到新加坡登船开启邮轮之旅，。。。
March 3, 2026
Instead of flying directly from Shanghai to Singapore to start our cruise, we decided to add a little adventure to the beginning of the trip. We first flew to Kuala Lumpur and then took the train south to the border town of Johor Bahru. Normally we prefer to arrive at the embarkation port a day in advance, but rather than crossing immediately into Singapore, we stayed overnight in Johor Bahru, where hotels and food are significantly cheaper.
This morning we took a Grab to JB Sentral to catch the shuttle train to Woodlands Station in Singapore. In the past, we had crossed the border from Laos into China by train, which took nearly two hours and required us to get on and off the train twice with all of our luggage. The process was inefficient and not a pleasant memory, so we were a little anxious about how this crossing would go.
About 30 minutes before departure, the gate opened and passengers checked in using their passports. We then quickly cleared Malaysian immigration and customs. Five minutes before departure, we boarded the train. The train slowly crossed the Johor Strait, and just five minutes later we arrived at the Woodlands checkpoint in Singapore. Passing through Singapore immigration and customs was also quick and smooth.
Overall, the entire experience was efficient and uneventful—a pleasant surprise compared with our previous border crossing.
Afterward, we called a Grab to take us to the cruise terminal to board our 10-day voyage through the South China Sea.
By this point, we had already spent nearly 100 days sailing with Crystal Cruises. The ship felt familiar, and we even recognized some of the crew members. In many ways, it felt like returning to a home away from home.
2026年3月3日
原本我们可以从上海直接飞到新加坡登船开启邮轮之旅，但这次我们特意给旅程增加了一点小小的冒险。我们先飞到吉隆坡，玩了几天，然后乘坐火车南下到边境城市新山（Johor Bahru）。通常我们都会提前一天抵达登船港口，但这次没有直接进入新加坡，而是在新山住了一晚。这里的酒店和餐饮价格都比新加坡便宜得多。
今天早上我们叫了一辆 Grab 前往 JB Sentral，乘坐开往新加坡兀兰（Woodlands）车站的跨境接驳火车。以前我们曾从老挝坐火车进入中国，那次过境花了将近两个小时，还需要带着行李两次上下车，整个过程既低效又令人印象不佳。因此这次过境前我们多少有点担心，尤其是因为中东地区开战，这里的就闻报到说新加坡收紧边境检查，从JB进入新加坡要排队。
在列车发车前约30分钟，闸门打开，乘客凭护照办理登车手续。随后我们很快就通过了马来西亚一侧的移民和海关检查。发车前5分钟开始登车。列车缓缓驶过柔佛海峡，大约5分钟后就抵达了新加坡兀兰关卡。入境新加坡的移民和海关手续同样非常快捷顺利。整个过程高效顺畅，与我们之前的边境经历形成了鲜明对比。
之后我们叫了一辆 Grab 前往邮轮码头，登上即将展开为期10天的南中国海航线。
到这个时候，我们在水晶邮轮（Crystal Cruises）上累计已经航行了将近100天。船上的环境对我们来说已经非常熟悉。某种意义上，这艘船就像是远方的另一个家。