October 12, 2026
We hit the trail at 7:00 a.m., climbing steadily toward Upper Sinuwa before descending steeply along a rocky path to Bamboo. The trail wound through lush forests, with seemingly endless climbs ahead.
Unfortunately, two members of our group had developed flu-like symptoms and decided to end their trek. They would descend to a gravel road and take a jeep back to the city, accompanied by one woman’s husband and two porters.
Although we were sorry to see them leave, I believed they had made a wise decision. It reminded me of a phrase I learned during our travels in Norway: “No shame in turning around.” In the mountains, knowing when to turn back is just as important as having the determination to keep going. Returning safely matters far more than reaching the destination. After all, the mountains will always be there.
With eight of us remaining, we continued toward Deurali. By this point, I had settled into a comfortable, sustainable pace. On uphill sections, I kept a steady rhythm by silently counting “one, two, three, four” then taking a brief stop and deep, controlled breaths. My progress was slow but steady, and maintaining my own rhythm helped me tackle the seemingly endless climbs.
After passing Bamboo, we stopped at Dovan Guesthouse for lunch. I ordered Shin Ramyun noodles with two eggs, a simple but satisfying meal. Somehow, I felt much more energetic afterward and even found myself leading the group for a while. But after stopping to take photos and enjoy the scenery, I soon found myself back at the rear of the group—my usual position!
Another small highlight was finally enjoying a proper machine-brewed Americano after several days of instant coffee. Electricity had been too limited along the trail to operate coffee machines, so this was a welcome treat.
Around 5:00 p.m., we finally reached Hotel View Point in Deurali, exhausted after a long day on the trail. At first, it looked as though we would have to share a room with other trekkers. But thanks to a little magic from our guide, Ram, we managed to get a private room for the night after all. There was no hot shower available, so I made do with a quick wipe-down using a clean washcloth. Wi-Fi and phone charging also came with additional fees.
That evening, I realized my sleeping bag was missing. I suspected it had rolled under the bed at our lodge in Lower Sinuwa that morning, and I hadn’t noticed it while packing. I could only hope to retrieve it on our way back.
Today’s trek covered approximately 9 miles (14.5 km), with a cumulative elevation gain of about 5,800 feet (1,768 m). After ten hours on the trail, it was our toughest day so far, both physically and mentally. We were more than ready for a good meal and some well-deserved rest.
2026年10月12日
早上7点，我们便踏上了徒步之路。首先一路爬升前往上锡努瓦（Upper Sinuwa），随后沿着陡峭的岩石山路下降至班布（Bamboo）。山路穿行在郁郁葱葱的森林中，前方似乎还有无穷无尽的上坡等待着我们。
不幸的是，队伍中有两位团友出现了类似流感的症状，决定提前结束徒步。她们将在一位团友丈夫和两名背夫的陪同下，下山前往一条碎石公路，再乘吉普车返回城市。
虽然大家都为她们的离开感到遗憾，但我认为这是明智的决定。这让我想起以前在挪威旅行时学到的一句话：“No shame in turning around”（选择回头并不丢脸）。 在山区，知道什么时候该放弃，与坚持前行同样重要。平安归来远比到达目的地更重要。毕竟，山永远在那里。
剩下的八个人继续向德乌拉里（Deurali）前进。经过几天的徒步，我已经找到了适合自己的节奏。上坡时，我在心里默数“一、二、三、四”，然后停一下，深呼吸，再继续前进。虽然速度不快，但步伐稳定。保持自己的节奏，让我能够应对那些似乎永无止境的爬坡。
经过班布后，我们在多万客栈（Dovan Guesthouse）停下来吃午饭。我点了一碗韩国辛拉面，加了两个鸡蛋。简单的一顿午餐，好像让我恢复了不少体力，甚至一度走到了队伍前面。不过，停下来拍了几张照片、欣赏了一会儿风景后，我很快又回到了队伍末尾——那个我最熟悉的位置！
当天还有一个小小的惊喜：连续喝了几天速溶咖啡后，终于喝到了一杯咖啡机现做的美式咖啡。由于沿途电力供应有限，许多客栈无法使用咖啡机，这杯咖啡显得格外香醇。
下午5点左右，我们终于抵达当天的目的地——德乌拉里的 Hotel View Point。经过漫长的一天，大家都已经筋疲力尽。起初，我们以为今晚不得不和其他徒步者合住一间房。不过，多亏了向导 Ram 的“魔法”，最终还是为我们争取到了一间独立客房。当天没有热水淋浴，我只好用一次性的擦身毛巾简单擦洗身体。Wi-Fi 和手机充电也都需要额外付费。
晚上，我突然发现自己的睡袋不见了。我怀疑早上在下锡努瓦（Lower Sinuwa）收拾行李时，睡袋可能滚到了床底下，而我没有注意到，就这样把它落在了客栈。只能希望返程经过那里时，还能把它找回来。
今天的徒步距离约为9英里（14.5公里），累计爬升约5,800英尺（1,768米）。经过整整十个小时的跋涉，这无疑是迄今为止体力和精神上最具挑战性的一天。此时，我们最需要的就是一顿热饭和好好休息。