Iguazú Falls 阿根廷伊瓜苏瀑布
August 27, 2025
After a hearty breakfast, our driver met us promptly at 8 a.m……
在享用过丰盛的早餐后，包车司机准时在早上 8 点来到旅大堂接我们。。。
August 27, 2025
After a hearty breakfast, our driver met us promptly at 8 a.m. in the lodge lobby and drove us to the entrance of Iguazú National Park on the Argentine side. Thanks to arriving early and having purchased tickets online, we breezed through the gates without delay.
Our adventure began with Gran Aventura, a thrilling combination of a jungle truck ride and a speedboat journey up the Iguazú River. The boat roared straight into the spray beneath several mighty cascades, including San Martín and Tres Mosqueteros. From the river, the view of the waterfalls was absolutely breathtaking—walls of water crashing all around us. Within minutes we were completely drenched, as if caught under a giant natural shower.
Back on land, we changed into dry clothes and walked over to the train station for the trip to Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo). Even though the ride is included in the park admission, we still had to pick up tickets for specific time slots. With an hour to spare, we grabbed a simple lunch—though we quickly realized we were not alone. Mischievous monkeys and bold coatis swarmed the picnic area, constantly scheming to snatch tourists food. We had to sit inside the wired cage to protect us. At times it felt as if we were the ones inside the zoo enclosure, watching them poke their paws through the wire mesh to steal a bite. Amusing and chaotic, it turned lunch into quite a show.
The train eventually dropped us at the trailhead for Devil’s Throat. The walkway stretched across shimmering wetlands, leading us to a massive platform directly above the roaring chasm. Although the trail itself was only about 1.4 miles long, it took us two hours to complete, as we lingered at every turn for photos of the magnificent panorama. Standing at the edge, with spray rising like smoke from the thunderous gorge, was nothing short of awe-inspiring.
After returning by train to the central station, we set out on both the Upper Circuit and Lower Circuit trails. Each offered unique perspectives of the waterfalls, equally stunning in their own way. Losing track of time, we messaged our driver to extend pickup by an hour—a luxury of having private transportation. That extra time allowed us to soak in the park’s beauty without rushing.
Back at the lodge, we rested briefly before heading into town for dinner. At Aqva Restaurant, we savored one final indulgence in Argentine cuisine, raising a toast to a day filled with adventure, nature, and unforgettable memories.
二零二五年八月二十七日
在享用过丰盛的早餐后，包车司机准时在早上 8 点来到旅大堂接我们，驱车前往阿根廷一侧的伊瓜苏国家公园 (Iguazú National Park)。因为到得早，又提前在网上买好了门票，我们顺利而快捷地进入了园区。
我们的行程从 Gran Aventura 开始，我们也是提前在网上买好了票。这是一项结合丛林卡车与快艇冲锋的探险项目。去看瀑布之前，与朋友们一起讨论是否要参加坐船冲瀑布（阿根廷）还是坐船看瀑布（巴西），最后大家一致认为要体验一下更刺激阿根廷边的坐船冲瀑布。丛林卡车带着我们来到水边，每人发一个防水袋将自己的物品放入其中。快艇逆流而上，没多久便来到瀑布前，先转着让大家看看，然后就直接冲入圣马丁瀑布 (San Martín) 和三剑客瀑布 (Tres Mosqueteros) 的水雾之中。瀑布如白色巨墙般从天而降，气势磅礴，令人震撼。不到几分钟，我们就被彻底淋透，好似置身于大自然的豪华淋浴间。
回到岸上换好衣服后，我们走到小火车站，准备前往著名的魔鬼喉 (Devil’s Throat / Garganta del Diablo)。虽然车程已包含在门票里，但仍需领取对应时段的车票。在等待的一小时里，我们随便吃了点午餐，却被一群“捣蛋鬼”打扰——调皮的猴子和大胆的南美浣熊 (coatis) 四处徘徊，伺机抢夺游客的食物。为了安全，公园专门设置了铁丝网围起的大笼子让游客用餐，坐在里面仿佛成了动物园里的“展品”。那些南美浣熊很有攻击性，甚至会伸爪穿过铁网来偷食，闹剧般的场面既混乱又充满笑料。
小火车最终将我们送到魔鬼喉步道的起点。全程约 2.2 公里 (1.4 英里，往返) 的栈道横跨湿地，通向巨大的观景平台，俯瞰轰鸣的深壑。虽然路不长，但我们足足走了两个小时，因为一路上不停驻足拍照。站在平台边缘，瀑布水雾翻腾，宛如白烟冲天，声势震撼，令人屏息凝神。
返回中心车站后，我们又走了两条环线步道。上环线 (Upper Circuit，1.75 公里 / 1.1 英里) 提供居高临下的全景视角，而 下环线 (Lower Circuit，2.7 公里 / 1.7 英里) 则蜿蜒深入瀑布脚下，带来更加直接的震撼感。两条步道各有特色，同样令人惊叹。因流连忘返，我们只好给司机发讯息，将预定接我们的时间延后一小时——包车的灵活性尽显无疑。
回到旅馆稍作休息后，我们傍晚出门走到镇上，在 Aqva 饭店享用丰盛的晚餐。这是我们此行最后一次品尝阿根廷美食，我们举杯庆祝这一天的探险与奇景，也为阿根廷之行的圆满结束而干杯。
Hito Tres Fronteras 三国交界点
August 26, 2025
We had fallen in love with Buenos Aires,……
布宜诺斯艾利斯，这座城市优雅的建筑与干净整洁的街道令人着迷。。。
August 26, 2025
We had fallen in love with Buenos Aires, with its elegant architecture and clean, vibrant streets. Over five days, we fully embraced the city’s extensive bus system, hopping on and off like locals. At first, we were puzzled whenever drivers asked us something we didn’t understand—only later did we realize they were asking where we would get off so they could charge the correct fare. Instead, we were always charged the maximum price. Another discovery came too late: if we had registered our SUBE card, we would have received significant discounts. Valuable lessons for a future visit.
Our flight to Puerto Iguazú was smooth and lasted just over an hour. Upon arrival, we spotted a driver outside the terminal holding a paper with my name—our prearranged pickup. For our time in Iguazú, rather than joining group tours, we decided to hire Iguazufalls.Travel to provide private transportation. This proved to be both affordable and flexible.
Our driver led us to a comfortable van and soon dropped us at our hotel for the next two nights, the Iguazú Jungle Lodge. Nestled on the outskirts of Puerto Iguazú, the lodge felt more like a resort than a hotel, with every room facing dense jungle and dotted with small waterfalls. After settling in, we walked into town for a hearty lunch featuring Argentina’s famous steak.
In the afternoon, we continued our journey to Hito Tres Fronteras, the point where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet, separated by the flowing rivers. Standing at the landmark, we could see across the borders, a symbolic spot where three nations share a single view.
From there, we strolled back to the lodge and enjoyed a lovely dinner. We went to bed filled with anticipation—tomorrow, we would finally see the mighty Iguazú Falls.
二零二五年八月二十六日
布宜诺斯艾利斯，这座城市优雅的建筑与干净整洁的街道令人着迷。五天里，我们充分体验了便捷的公交系统，几乎和当地人一样自由穿梭在城市的各个角落。来布宜诺斯艾利斯之后我们每天都要坐几趟公交车，交通卡有过几次刷卡时变负值，终于在最后一天才搞明白为什么。有时候上车刷卡时司机会对我们叽哩咕噜说西班牙语，让我们感到困惑。后来才明白，他们其实是想知道我们在哪里下车，好按距离收取正确的车费。因为听不懂无法回答，我们总是被收取最高票价。这也是为什么卡上的钱总比我们预期的用得快。因为买SUBE卡时除了交通费，还有一部分是卡本身的定金，所以上车刷到一定的负值也是可以的。另一个遗憾的发现是，如果提前注册 SUBE 卡，就能享受不少折扣。只能留待下次再访时改进了。
昨晚被临时换机场一事搞得心惊胆颤，天没亮就起床，预订的Uber准时来接我们。在航空公司柜台确认值机且拿了打印的登机牌，过安检后终于在候机厅里安心地吃了顿早餐。
飞往伊瓜苏港（Puerto Iguazú）的航班平稳顺利，仅一个多小时。抵达后，我们在航站楼外看到一位男士手举写有我名字的纸牌，他正是我们预约的接机司机。为了在伊瓜苏的几天能更加灵活自在，我们没有选择跟团，而是聘请了 Iguazufalls.Travel 提供私人交通服务，事实证明既经济又方便。
司机把我们送到 Iguazú Jungle Lodge。这家旅馆坐落在小镇边缘，四周被浓密的热带雨林包围，房间面向绿意盎然的丛林，还点缀着小瀑布。它更像是一处静谧的度假村，而非普通酒店。安顿好后，我们步行到镇中心，享用了一顿丰盛的午餐，当然少不了阿根廷最地道的牛排。
下午，我们前往三国交界点（Hito Tres Fronteras）。在这里，阿根廷、巴西和巴拉圭三国以河流分界，三方在此交汇。站在纪念碑旁极目远眺，可以同时望见三国，这是一个充满象征意义的地点。之后，我们慢慢走回旅馆，在旅馆的餐厅里享受了一顿非常惬意的晚餐。
夜幕降临，我们带着满心期待入睡——明天，将迎来此行最令人激动的时刻：壮丽的伊瓜苏大瀑布。
Street Art, Chinatown, and Puerto Madero 街头艺术、中国城与普埃尔托马德罗
August 25, 2025
Early in the morning, Chenggang stepped out by himself to the small café next door,……
在布宜诺斯艾利斯待了几天后，。。。
August 25, 2025
Early in the morning, Chenggang stepped out by himself to the small café next door, enjoying two medialunas and a cup of coffee with milk — a simple yet delightful local breakfast that cots $4.
After several days in Buenos Aires, we felt we had checked off most of the must-see sights. Today was our last full day in the city, with plans to explore the Palermo area, have lunch in Chinatown, and end the day with a leisurely stroll through Puerto Madero.
Palermo is both a high-end residential and commercial district, but it is also known for having some of the best street art in the city. We rode the bus there and spent the morning wandering its streets, admiring colorful murals and creative designs painted across walls and buildings.
Afterwards we took another bus to Chinatown. Since it was Monday, many restaurants were closed, but we managed to find one open spot serving decent dim sum.
In the afternoon, we headed to Puerto Madero, the modern waterfront district, and spent a few hours walking along the docks and soaking up our final impressions of the city.
That evening we enjoyed a simple homemade dinner back at our rental, chatting and packing for tomorrow’s departure. Chenggang tired out Mate tea set he bought in the market yesterday.
Late at night, one of our friends translated an email we had all received earlier from JetSmart in Spanish, only to discover that due to a strike, our departure had been switched to a different airport. Thankfully, they woke everyone up in time, and we quickly rebooked our Uber to the new airport. We couldn’t imagine what would have happened if we had shown up at the wrong one.
二零二五年八月二十五日
在布宜诺斯艾利斯待了几天后，我们觉得大多数必看景点都已经打卡了。今天是我们在这座城市的最后一整天，计划先去 巴勒莫 (Palermo) 区走走，然后到 中国城 (Chinatown) 吃午餐，最后去普埃尔托马德罗 (Puerto Madero) 逛逛。
巴勒莫既是高档的住宅和商业区，同时也是欣赏街头艺术的最佳地点。我们乘公交前往，在街区间随意闲逛，欣赏着五彩斑斓、充满创意的壁画与涂鸦。
之后我们又坐车来到 中国城。因为是星期一，大部分餐馆都关门了，但我们还是找到了一家营业的餐馆，吃到了还不错的广式早茶。
下午，我们去了普埃尔托马德罗，这座现代化的滨水区是城市的另一张面孔，我们在那里走了几个小时，也品尝了当地的冰淇淋和咖啡，享受在布宜诺斯艾利斯最后的时光。
傍晚回到住处，我们做了一顿简单的家常晚餐，边吃边聊天，并开始整理行李，为明天的离开做准备。深夜时，同行的一位朋友把大家之前都收到但忽略的来自JetSmart航空的西班牙语邮件翻译出来，才发现由于罢工，明天一早的航班起飞机场临时改到了另一个机场。幸好朋友及时发现，把大家都叫醒。我们赶紧重新预订了去新机场的 Uber。新机场很远，我们必须更早出发。真不敢想象如果去了错误的机场，会是怎样一番局面。 几天来我们常开玩笑，说这位同行的朋友是我们的福星，每次有他在总能帮我们化险为宜，今天再次证明了这一点。
La Boca, San Telmo Market, and Werther 拉博卡、圣特尔莫市场与《维尔特》
August 24， 2025
Today we visited the most colorful street in Buenos Aires — Caminito in La Boca……
今天一早我们坐公交车来到了布宜诺斯艾利斯最色彩斑斓的街道。。。
August 24， 2025
Today we visited the most colorful street in Buenos Aires — Caminito in La Boca. Unlike the quiet early morning scene yesterday, the area was now alive with tourists, open shops, and music in the air. Famous for its brightly painted houses, street tango performances, craft stalls, and lively cafés, Caminito exuded vibrant energy and unmistakable charm.
From there we took the bus to San Telmo for the weekly Sunday market. The long street was packed with vendors, booths, locals, and tourists, creating a vivid scene of bustling city life.
After arriving in Buenos Aires, we noticed many locals carrying a cup filled with tea leaves and a metal straw, often accompanied by a thermos of hot water. Some even carried special bags just for their mate set. On the ferry yesterday we learned this is mate tea, a beloved tradition throughout South America. At the market today, we were drawn to a booth selling mate cups and accessories, and we bought a set engraved with our names.
We also stepped into the San Telmo indoor market, which was much livelier than two days ago when we arrived too late. This time every café was packed, and finding seats for six was nearly impossible. Instead of sampling different stalls, we waited for a table at La Choripanería, a highly recommended spot inside the market, and shared a traditional Argentine platter that included black sausage.
After lunch we walked to the museum of the Casa Rosada (Pink House) to learn more about this significant national landmark. We then stopped by the Obelisco de Buenos Aires, the city’s most iconic monument built in 1936 to celebrate the 400th anniversary. Standing tall at the intersection of Avenida 9 de Julio and Avenida Corrientes, it made the perfect backdrop for a group photo before we continued on to the Teatro Colón.
In the evening, we attended the opera Werther at the Teatro Colón, one of the world’s great opera houses. Since all the seats were sold out, we managed to get standing tickets, which still gave us the chance to enjoy the performance in this magnificent venue. Massenet’s Werther, based on Goethe’s The Sorrows of Young Werther, tells the tragic story of a poet destroyed by unrequited love. The world-class performance, combined with the theater’s remarkable acoustics, made it truly unforgettable. Although the opera ran for more than three hours, we decided to leave after the second intermission.
We ended the day walking through the lively theater district and had dinner at Pizzería Güerrín, the most famous pizza place in the city. The thick, cheesy pizza was heavy, and even the classic Buenos Aires twist of pairing it with a slice of chickpea flatbread (fainá) wasn’t to our taste. We didn’t finish and took the leftovers home, all agreeing that this would be our last pizza stop of the trip.
拉博卡、圣特尔莫市场与《维尔特》
二零二五年八月二十四日
今天一早我们坐公交车来到了布宜诺斯艾利斯最色彩斑斓的街道——拉博卡 (La Boca) 的 卡米尼托 (Caminito)。这里以五颜六色的房屋、街头探戈表演、手工艺摊位和热闹的小餐馆而闻名，充满活力与独特魅力。我们去的早，游客还不算太多。
随后我们乘公交来到 圣特尔莫 (San Telmo)，赶上了每周一次的周日集市。整条街道被摊贩，本地人和游客挤得水泄不通，热闹非凡。
自从抵达布宜诺斯艾利斯，我们就常看到当地人手里端着一个杯子，里面是茶叶和金属吸管，另外还带着热水瓶，有的甚至配着专门的茶具袋。昨天在渡轮上我们才知道，这是南美盛行的 马黛茶 (Mate)。今天在市场上被一个售卖茶具的摊位吸引，我买下了一套马黛茶具，商家当场在茶杯上刻上我的姓氏。
我们还走进了圣特尔莫室内市场。两天前晚上来时很冷清，大部分已关门，而今天却人声鼎沸，走路都必须人推人。市场里的小餐馆几乎都客满，六个人想找座位极为困难。于是我们放弃了逐个小摊品尝的想法，选择在一家口碑很好的小餐馆 La Choripanería 等位。短暂等待后终于入座，我们点了几份餐馆的特色菜包括一份传统的阿根廷拼盘，其中有黑血肠。
午餐后，我们步行前往 玫瑰宫 (Casa Rosada) 博物馆，了解这座布宜诺斯艾利斯最具代表性的地标。随后来到 布宜诺斯艾利斯方尖碑 (Obelisco de Buenos Aires)。这座纪念碑建于 1936 年，为庆祝建城 400 周年而建。我们在此拍下合影后，继续走向 科隆剧院 (Teatro Colón)。
晚上，我们在科隆剧院观看歌剧 《维特》(Werther)。来阿根廷前我们就上网买票，由于座位全部售罄，我们买了站票，有机会在这座世界一流的歌剧院中欣赏演出。歌剧《维特》改编自歌德的小说《少年维特之烦恼》，讲述了一位诗人因单恋而走向毁灭的悲剧。虽然听不懂，但世界级的表演与剧院无与伦比的音响效果相得益彰，使这次体验难以忘怀。
一天的行程在热闹的剧院区画下句点。我们来到布宜诺斯艾利斯最著名的披萨店 Pizzería Güerrín 用餐。厚重多芝士的披萨相当油腻，即便搭配上当地经典的 鹰嘴豆饼 (fainá) 却不合我们的口味。没吃完的部分我们打包带走，并一致决定这将是此行最后一次尝试披萨。
Uruguay and Tango Show 乌拉圭与探戈之夜
August 23, 2025
Although we had only been in Buenos Aires for two days,……
在布宜诺斯艾利斯 (Buenos Aires) 仅停留两天后，。。。
August 23, 2025
Although we had only been in Buenos Aires for two days, we were eager to add a new stamp to our travel memories and set out on a day trip to Uruguay. To reach the ferry terminal, we took buses with a transfer at La Boca, saving ourselves a 30-minute walk through an unfamiliar neighborhood.
The check-in process and customs at the terminal were smooth and efficient. After a quick breakfast of coffee and croissants, we boarded the 10:30 am Colonia Express ferry. The crossing over the Río de la Plata lasted about an hour and fifteen minutes, carrying us across the wide, brown waters to the shores of Uruguay.
In Colonia del Sacramento, we strolled leisurely through the old town, admiring its cobblestone streets, colonial-era houses, and sweeping coastal views. The town’s tranquil atmosphere set a gentle pace for the day. After a pleasant lunch, we continued exploring until it was time to return.
Back at the ferry terminal, however, we discovered that check-in time was one hour prior to departure—not forty minutes as suggested by ChatGPT. At first, the staff was reluctant to let us through, but after we explained we had an evening event planned, they kindly made an exception, even allowing us to bypass the security line. A fellow passenger later helped us pass through passport control quickly, and in the end we boarded with plenty of time to spare.
The ferry brought us back to Buenos Aires around 6 pm. This time, we chose to walk through the neighborhood to reach the bus stop and return to our rental. For dinner, the group split tastes: while the ladies prepared vegetarian dishes, the men insisted on meat. A quick trip across the street to the butcher shop yielded two ribeye steaks and two breaded chicken fillets. Together with homemade tomato soup and fresh vegetables, the meal turned into a hearty feast.
Later, we dressed up slightly and set out for a tango show. We had booked the “show plus drink” option, without dinner, and worried our seats might be poor since dinner guests were seated two hours earlier. To our surprise, the six of us were placed right in front of the stage. With red wine and Argentine appetizers in hand, we spent the evening captivated by the intensity and elegance of tango.
After midnight, we caught the bus back to our accommodation. By now, moving around Buenos Aires by bus and on foot felt safe and surprisingly comfortable, closing the day with both adventure and cultural immersion.
二零二五年八月二十三日
在布宜诺斯艾利斯 (Buenos Aires) 仅停留两天后，我们便迫不及待地想为旅程增添新的印记，前往邻国乌拉圭 (Uruguay) 来一个一日游。为了到达渡轮码头，我们选择乘坐公交车并在拉博卡 (La Boca) 转车，省去了穿越陌生街区的 30 分钟步行。
码头的值机和海关手续井然有序，出奇地高效。在候船厅内享用了一份咖啡与羊角面包作为早餐后，我们登上了Colonia Express 渡轮。船只缓缓驶入拉普拉塔河 (Río de la Plata)，褐色而宽阔的河面在阳光下泛着微光，一个多小时后便抵达乌拉圭。
我们走进这座始建于 1680 年的古镇——科洛尼亚·德尔·萨克拉门托 (Colonia del Sacramento)。历史城区 (Barrio Histórico) 的鹅卵石小路与低矮房屋，展现出葡萄牙与西班牙交织的独特风情。漫步在 叹息街 (Calle de los Suspiros) ，走进圣礼大教堂 (Basilica del Santísimo Sacramento)，处处弥漫着宁静而古朴的气息。街边偶尔停放的古董汽车，更为这座古城增添了一份怀旧的韵味。
中午在小镇享用了当地的美食后，我们沿着河畔长廊悠然散步，远眺拉普拉塔河 (Río de la Plata) 的宽阔水面，心境也随之开阔。路过一家饭店，被户外现场音乐表演吸引。爱跳舞的同伴情不自禁地随着歌声跳了起来，不一会儿他身后便跟上了一串游客，最后Connie 也加入，大家随着音乐兴高彩烈地绕圈圈，气氛一时达到高潮。
返程时遇到了个小插曲——来到渡轮公司前台取票时才被告知渡轮的值机需在出发前一小时完成，而不是 ChatGPT 提示的 40 分钟。工作人员起初不愿放行，所幸的是在听到我们解释晚上有重要安排后，允许我们通过，还让我们免去安检的长队。随后，一位好心的乘客又在海关护照检查时帮忙让我们走当地人的通道。最终我们顺利登船。
傍晚六点，我们再次回到布宜诺斯艾利斯。这一次，我们选择穿过街区步行至公交站，坐公交车返回住处。晚餐女士们忙于准备素食，男士们无肉不欢，走到街对面的肉铺，买回两块肉眼牛排和两块裹粉鸡排。搭配自制的番茄汤和新鲜蔬菜，这顿丰盛的晚餐让人心满意足。
稍作休息后，我们前往观看探戈表演。在来阿根廷之前我们就已买好了票。原本担心因为只选择了“表演加饮品”的票而非包晚餐票，会被安排在不佳的位置，毕竟晚餐客人提前两小时就入座了。没想到我们六人竟被安排在舞台正前方。红酒在杯中荡漾，阿根廷小食散发着浓郁香气。台上舞者的步伐如火焰般热烈、如流水般优雅。整个夜晚，我们完全沉浸在探戈的魅力之中。
Asado and Cemetery 吃烤肉看陵园
August 22, 2025
Argentina’s Asado is world-famous, and Don Julio is consistently ranked……
阿根廷的烤肉名扬世界，而 Don Julio 则是其中的传奇。。。
August 22, 2025
Argentina’s Asado is world-famous, and Don Julio is consistently ranked among the top 101 steakhouses in the world, even holding a Michelin star. Securing a reservation was no easy task. After many emails back and forth, we finally managed to book two separate tables (one for two people, another for four) with outdoor seating for lunch.
We arrived at the restaurant around 11:00 a.m., waiting for the doors to open. Its popularity was immediately clear as the line outside grew quickly. In true Don Julio tradition, the staff welcomed those waiting with glasses of champagne, freshly fried empanadas, and small cups of pumpkin soup—a gracious gesture before anyone even sat down. Eventually, our group was seated together inside.
We ordered several vegetable sides along with spiral sausages, skirt steak, and ribeye steak. The service was impeccable—attentive yet relaxed. While we felt the food itself might not have been the single best steak we had ever tasted, the overall experience—the lively atmosphere, warm hospitality, and sense of occasion—was extraordinary and well worth the effort to dine here.
After lunch, we strolled to the Recoleta Cemetery for a paid guided tour ($10 per person). This historic site is one of Buenos Aires’ must-see landmarks. Our very knowledgable guide shared fascinating stories that brought the cemetery to life. It may sound unusual from a Chinese perspective to describe a cemetery as beautiful, yet the visit was both moving and deeply informative.
We finished the afternoon at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Buenos Aires Museum of Fine Arts) before taking the city bus back to our Airbnb rental, ending a day that blended food, history, and culture in perfect balance.
二零二五年八月二十二日
阿根廷的烤肉（asado）名扬世界，而 Don Julio 则是其中的传奇，不仅常年位列全球101牛排馆之一，还荣获米其林一星。为了能在这里用餐，我们提前经过各种努力终于订到两张午餐的户外座位——一张两人桌，一张四人桌。为了希望能坐到室内，我们提前半小时在上午11点便抵达饭店，排队第二，等待开门。队伍很快就排得很长，服务员给等待的每位客人送上送上一杯香槟酒、一只现炸馅饼和一小杯热腾腾的南瓜汤，热情且有仪式感。与领班商量后我们还如愿以偿被安排在室内且六人同桌而坐。我们点了几道蔬菜配菜，以及饭店的经典烤肉包括螺旋香肠、牛裙肉和肉眼牛排，要了一瓶来自Mendoza 的红酒分享。服务无可挑剔，非常周到。虽然牛排本身未必是我们吃过的最佳，但整体氛围与体验令人难忘，足以不负“世界名店”之名。
午餐后，我们步行前往雷科莱塔公墓（Recoleta Cemetery）。这座庄严宁静的墓园是布宜诺斯艾利斯的必访之地。买了门票，又参加了徒步讲解游览。导游不仅介绍了这里安葬的几位总统、将领，以及举世闻名的第一夫人 Eva Perón，还分享了许多普通人的动人故事。或许在中国文化里，把公墓称为美丽并不常见，但这次参观确实让人印象深刻。
接着我们参观了阿根廷国家美术馆 （Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes)。慢悠悠在美术馆欣赏够了之后我们才坐公交车去到San Telmo Market，准备在那里吃晚饭。走进market 发现大部分店家开始收摊关门了，于是在market附近随便找了家披萨店。味道相当不错，大家一致认为比美国的好吃。一天的行程紧凑，在美食、历史与艺术之间找到了完美的平衡。
再次乘坐公交车返回 民舍，当上车刷到四个人时，发现卡上余额已是负值，到了最后一人时，已不让刷卡了，但热心的驾驶员却一挥手让我们过了。但我们大家却是满脸疑惑地坐回住处。
First Glimpse of Buenos Aires 布宜诺斯艾利斯的第一眼
Auguster 20-21, 2025
Our journey to Argentina began with a nerve-racking twist……
我们的阿根廷之旅一开始就充满波折。。。
Auguster 20-21, 2025
Our journey to Argentina began with a nerve-racking twist. The flight to Atlanta was diverted to Nashville due to weather-related airport closures. After refueling, the plane returned to Atlanta with a two-hour delay, leaving us just 15 minutes to make our connection to Buenos Aires. We sprinted off the plane at the far end of Concourse A and raced toward the train stop. Deep down, we doubted we would make it — the flight was even listed as departing five minutes early — but we refused to give up.
Just as we reached the train, an update came through: the Buenos Aires flight was delayed, first by 15 minutes, then by 40. Hope returned. By the time we reached the gate, we found many other passengers waiting; like us, several had been diverted to other cities before making it back. In hindsight, we realized a simple check — whether boarding had actually begun — could have saved some stress. In the end, the flight departed two hours late. Relieved, we finally boarded and set off for Argentina.
Upon arrival in Buenos Aires, we grabbed a quick $10 lunch for the six of us before walking toward the National Congress. Just as we approached, our tour guide sent a WhatsApp message warning of a demonstration in front of the building and asked us to meet three blocks away. Passing by, we caught sight of a large but peaceful protest under heavy police presence.
To our surprise, we turned out to be the only group on the walking tour, which made the experience feel personal. The guide led us through some of the city’s most iconic landmarks: the Barolo Palace, Avenida de Mayo, Café Tortoni, the Pink House, and the Metropolitan Cathedral.
That evening, we returned to Café Tortoni for dinner, sharing a ham-and-cheese board, salads, and sandwiches. While enjoying the simple food, we watched tango dancers glide across the café floor — our first taste of Argentina’s vibrant culture. Then we tried to figure out how to buy a SUBE card so we could take the bus back to our rental.
Buenos Aires has a very extensive and affordable public bus system. Since we were a group of six, taking the bus was actually more convenient than splitting into two separate ride-sharing cars, such as Uber. To use the bus, however, a physical SUBE card is required.
After our tour, we tried to withdraw local currency from Western Union as planned, but without success. While searching for other options to exchange money, we unexpectedly ran into our tour guide on the street again. Realizing our situation, he later called to check if we still needed cash and eventually took us to a small flower shop. Our brave friend went inside alone with the shop owner and successfully exchanged money at a fairly good rate.
With pesos finally in hand, we stopped at a convenience store and bought a SUBE card for the group — which can only be purchased with cash — and then happily rode the bus for the first time.
2025年8月20-21日
我们的阿根廷 (Argentina) 之旅一开始就充满波折。飞往亚特兰大 (Atlanta) 的航班因天气改降到纳什维尔 (Nashville)，达美甚至改签我们到第二天。幸运的是，飞机最终回到亚特兰大，但只剩15分钟转机时间。我们拖着行李从 A 航站楼狂奔至最远的 F 航站楼，在小火车上收到航班延误的消息，终于赶上了飞往布宜诺斯艾利斯 (Buenos Aires) 的飞机。虽然再次延误两个小时，但我们总算顺利启程。
抵达布市后，预订的出租车接我们到民宿，我们六个人只花了10美元就解决了一顿简单的午餐。随后参加始于国会大厦 (National Congress) 附近的”南美巴黎＂徒步游，却因示威临时改在三条街外集合。游行虽然规模不小，但气氛平和，警力密集。这次历时二小时的徒步之旅 (walking tour) 就我们六个人，变成私人导游了。导游带我们走过巴罗洛宫 (Barolo Palace)、五月大道 (Avenida de Mayo)、托托尼咖啡馆 (Café Tortoni)、粉红宫 (Pink House) 和大教堂 (Metropolitan Cathedral)。
夜晚，我们回到托托尼咖啡馆 (Café Tortoni)，点了火腿芝士拼盘、沙拉和三明治。在悠扬乐声中欣赏舞者的探戈 (tango)，第一次亲身感受阿根廷文化的魅力。
布宜诺斯艾利斯拥有非常广泛且价格低廉的公交系统。由于我们一行六人，乘坐公交反而比分乘两辆共享单车（如 Uber）更方便。不过，要乘坐公交，必须先办一张实体的 SUBE 卡。
因为行程之前就被告知最好不要在阿根廷从ATM上取现金，昨天观光结束后，我们原本打算去西联汇款取现金，可惜折腾了二次都没有成功。当我们在街头继续四处寻找兑换现金的地方时，竟意外再次遇见了下午的导游。得知我们的困境后，说可以帮忙并带我们走进了一家不起眼的花店。我们那位勇敢的朋友独自跟店主进了后面的小屋，把美元换成了厚厚的一叠比索，且拿到了一个相当不错的汇率。有了现金，我们随即前往一家便利店，顺利买到 SUBE 卡——这卡只能用现金购买，可以多人共享。拿到卡的那一刻，仿佛打开了通往城市的新大门。很快我们六人就兴奋地刷卡上了公交车，虽然语言不通，却满怀新鲜与喜悦跟着当地人一起穿梭在布宜诺斯艾利斯的大街小巷。